View Full Version : Kroil
ridgerunner70
03-04-12, 20:26
How many of you use Kroil on there BCG for getting rid of the touch carbon build up?
I lube with synthetic Motor oil so I don't get any carbon build up.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Never used it on an AR. I have used it mixed with Shooter's Choice as a GP bore solvent. It was very popular years ago with BR crowd, I've used it in my 6.5 Swede BA rifle with decent results over molly'ed bullets.
For carbon buildup on my BCG I've occasionally soaked the carrier in SLIP Choke Tube Cleaner which is the same thing as their Carbon Cutter, just rebranded for the shotgun crowd. Then I wipe off and lube/finish with CLP. I think CLP serves as a much better lube than Kroil and SLIP is a better carbon cutter. Kroil isn't bad, you just have to soak and be patient.
Using a good lube which prevents carbon build up and deposits eliminates the need for any soaking to clean. I simply hose my parts off with N/C brake cleaner then re oil and assemble.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
ridgerunner70
03-04-12, 20:50
I lube with synthetic Motor oil so I don't get any carbon build up.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Your talking Moble one 10w-30? Something like that
Your talking Moble one 10w-30? Something like that
Used ti use Mobil 1 Synthetic but switched over to Walmart synthetic .....works the same cost less.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
In my shop I found Liquid Wrench or synthetic motor oil cut about 1:3 with Stoddard Solvent (odorless paint thinner) works much better than Kroil for frozen fasteners etc at about 1/4 the price. For bore cleaning I like KG12 for copper and Eezox for normal fouling.
If you lube your AR properly and keep it wet you shouldn't have much carbon build up. Many people are too afraid to run it wet though.
I use Mobil 1 15w-50 to lube the BCG and run it very wet.
Has worked well for me.
When I do clean it, I use Slip 2000 Carbon Killer. Just drop the entire BCG in the jar and let it soak. Then disassemble, brush off parts, wipe down, relube, then reassemble.
I started using FrogLube and I run my Noveske upper wetter than a (insert expletive). I've had absolutely zero carbon buildup on that bolt, a simple wipe down and it was clean as a whistle. Using a similar amount of Slip 2000 EWL on my BCM upper would result in a little carbon buildup, but nothing to write home about.
If you lube your AR properly and keep it wet you shouldn't have much carbon build up. Many people are too afraid to run it wet though.
What Gunz said. I have not scrubbed a BCG in 10 years. I lube the hell out of them and then during the cleaning process (if I clean) I just wipe down the BCG with a dirty rag and re lube. The only carbon is on the tail of the bolt and that is self limiting.
I don't believe in scrubbing any part of the BCG with brake cleaner and then re lubing. I feel that is strips all of the lube out of the pores of the metal.
I live in Alaska and have tested running an AR at 30 below with it lubed WET and have not had a lube related problem. Running thin jacketed ammo is another story (for another thread)
Until that day,
Darkop
ridgerunner70
03-05-12, 13:57
I will absolutely run it wet..
Iraqgunz: When you were in Iraq, how wet did you run it? Does the .mil still stress using very light lube on the AR platform?
Dirtyboy333
03-07-12, 18:18
I use Mobile 1 as well. I guess I could save money with the Walmart brand but 1 quart of Mobile 1 will almost last a lifetime:p I tried cleaning a cheap BCG with my ultrasonic and it didnt turn out so well. It cleaned everything very well, especially the areas that i can't reach. The problem is that it stripped everything off and now my BCG is all discolored. I want to find a way to make it work since it was so easy and I may try the same BCG in a different solution (i was using half vinegar and half water).
Kroil, as said above, is not the greatest. There are cheaper, faster products. Use the Kroil for rusted screws, that's where it shines.
Best use for Kroil is a wet patch down the barrel. The small molecules of the Kroil will seep under imbeded copper in the barrel. Run a patch and let it sit for a hour or so and then clean as usual. Will get a lot more out than with just solvent alone.
PalmettoPrecision
03-07-12, 22:13
If you lube your AR properly and keep it wet you shouldn't have much carbon build up. Many people are too afraid to run it wet though.
What makes people afraid to run it wet?
madmike3668
03-07-12, 22:35
What makes people afraid to run it wet?
I think most people are afraid it will attract dirt and foreign particles that may cause a malfunction but i don't think it's anything to worry about unless you're in a really dusty enviroment.
I would have to say that the main reason is they don't want to attract the dirt and dust. Definitely don't run them dry. While deployed to Iraq, I was running a range for our company, I had a guy come up to me and tell me he needed a new extractor on his M4. I asked if he had any lube on the BCG and he said no and that he was running the entire gun dry. I sprayed it down with CLP and he didn't have any issues with it after that. Thankfully it happened inside the wire and not when he needed it the most.
I didn't run mine dripping wet over there but always made sure it was lubed. Every so often I would put Militec on the internals and let it sit in a hot conex container when I wasn't out patrolling. I'd wipe it down and then lube it with CLP. I think I had the smoothest running M4. It seemed to help the trigger as well.
Enough that it could be easily seen. At the time we were going from Militec to WeaponShield.
I still see military personnel walking around with dry weapons and there are still plenty around telling their people it's not good.
Iraqgunz: When you were in Iraq, how wet did you run it? Does the .mil still stress using very light lube on the AR platform?
Not too impressed with Kroil. Last week I wanted to remove an A2 flash supp from a rifle. It was cranked on so damn tight by the manufacture that I couldn't budge it. Soaked it in Kroil for a week. That didn't do jack. So I had to have it cut off. What a hassle.
Blame the manufacturer. If you are using a crush washer there is no torque value. It's simply tightened until it is timed. All too often people seem to forget this.
It would have been nice had they used some anti-seize as well. ;)
Not too impressed with Kroil. Last week I wanted to remove an A2 flash supp from a rifle. It was cranked on so damn tight by the manufacture that I couldn't budge it. Soaked it in Kroil for a week. That didn't do jack. So I had to have it cut off. What a hassle.
Littlelebowski
03-08-12, 08:08
Not too impressed with Kroil. Last week I wanted to remove an A2 flash supp from a rifle. It was cranked on so damn tight by the manufacture that I couldn't budge it. Soaked it in Kroil for a week. That didn't do jack. So I had to have it cut off. What a hassle.
Best penetrating oil I've seen is oil of wintergreen. Seriously.
Enough that it could be easily seen. At the time we were going from Militec to WeaponShield.
I still see military personnel walking around with dry weapons and there are still plenty around telling their people it's not good.
Back in the '70s I used to get invited to shoot the old 'nam-era M16A1 with some R.O.T.C. guys. When we checked the rifles out of the vault, they were white-glove clean. We went and shot them both semi and full-auto, and then spent 3 hours getting them white glove clean again. No one ever lubricated the guns. I don't remember anybody having any jams, but looking back, it was amazing that they ran with no lubricant whatsoever. Maybe because they had a million miles on them, but still.
Blame the manufacturer. If you are using a crush washer there is no torque value. It's simply tightened until it is timed. All too often people seem to forget this.
It would have been nice had they used some anti-seize as well. ;)
I wish the manufacturer had use a crush washer, they used a peel washer. I've removed crush washered suppressor with ease.
Best penetrating oil I've seen is oil of wintergreen. Seriously.
Thanks for the tip.
That is the old schoo; of thinking. Shoot with a little lube and then spend hours cleaning.
Or you could apply alot of lube, which will reduce the carbon sticking and just do some basic wipedown. The military is over-obsessed with that white glove shit.
Back in the '70s I used to get invited to shoot the old 'nam-era M16A1 with some R.O.T.C. guys. When we checked the rifles out of the vault, they were white-glove clean. We went and shot them both semi and full-auto, and then spent 3 hours getting them white glove clean again. No one ever lubricated the guns. I don't remember anybody having any jams, but looking back, it was amazing that they ran with no lubricant whatsoever. Maybe because they had a million miles on them, but still.
I've used Kroil for years and like it a lot in certain applications, but I use M-Pro7 for lubrication on my hard use stuff because Kroil dissipates to quickly for my liking.
To me Kroil is more of a penetrating oil and not a great lube if that makes sense...
I don't know why anyone would use Kroil for lube? :confused:
I've used Kroil for years and like it a lot in certain applications, but I use M-Pro7 for lubrication on my hard use stuff because Kroil dissipates to quickly for my liking.
To me Kroil is more of a penetrating oil and not a great lube if that makes sense...
I don't know why anyone would use Kroil for lube? :confused:
I know some guys that swear by it and thats why I did the disclaimer of it not being a viable option. It seems old timers swear its better than sex for everything...
Markasaurus
03-08-12, 15:39
Nothing is getting the carbon off except physically removing it. I've tried everything, you name it.
I use the G & G scraper tool then some scotch brite pads. It takes about 5 minutes to get it clean as new.
The CRT tool is also good for carbon removal.
I tried doing it with regular scrapers,screwdrivers etc. It is much easier and faster to use the specialty tools.
Many people say just leave the carbon there, that the carbon is harmless and that it is self-limiting. I've seen pictures of pitted bolt tails that show otherwise. So I clean my bolt tail of the carbon.
I never experienced understood the idea of scraping to remove Carbine build up. Its been my experience that using a proper lube prevents carbon build up
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
I love kroil like I do WD40...great products. I gotta have a can of WD-40 at arms lengths to clean up messes and save anything that got wet asap.
Kroil & a little heat has loosened everything I've tried ( never heard of the wintergreen)
The 25/75 kroil & SC solvent is a great old school cleaner when using bronze brushes.
Kroil is also my main short term bore storage for my tack driver tubes. Clean the bore and then 2-3 drops of kroil on a clean patch to barely coat the bore has been the best POI / bullseye / cold bore method I've ever used.
Some guns I have to clean, shoot once and put away to trust cold bore, but the kroil sure makes me sleep better on the ones that print with it.
Breadstick
03-08-12, 18:38
I used kroil in my first AR yes, as lube...before I new better.
now I use ATF for lube, Mouse Milk for anything that needs loosened.
bsmith_shoot
03-08-12, 18:52
I dont own a can of solvent/cleaner. I just use Mobil 1 full synthetic to soak my weapons in, then wipe off the crud.
Brandon
I remember in basic going to BRM the Drill Sergeant when rodding on the range, had a big spray bottle of CLP. He would shove the tip in the ejection port and squirt the hell out of it. CLP flying everywhere that first shot, CLP in my eyes, my nose, all over my face, but it was wet. 18 years later I still keep'em almost as wet and I've never had a malfunction resulting from lube. Had others, but it wasn't lube related.
Your Scotchbrite pads and some of the other stuff used to remove carbon is often times doing more harm by removing the finish.
As for the pitted bolt tails, I have some theories about this but in any case it's not something to fret over.
Nothing is getting the carbon off except physically removing it. I've tried everything, you name it.
I use the G & G scraper tool then some scotch brite pads. It takes about 5 minutes to get it clean as new.
The CRT tool is also good for carbon removal.
I tried doing it with regular scrapers,screwdrivers etc. It is much easier and faster to use the specialty tools.
Many people say just leave the carbon there, that the carbon is harmless and that it is self-limiting. I've seen pictures of pitted bolt tails that show otherwise. So I clean my bolt tail of the carbon.
Littlelebowski
03-09-12, 06:49
Nothing is getting the carbon off except physically removing it. I've tried everything, you name it.
I use the G & G scraper tool then some scotch brite pads. It takes about 5 minutes to get it clean as new.
The CRT tool is also good for carbon removal.
I tried doing it with regular scrapers,screwdrivers etc. It is much easier and faster to use the specialty tools.
Many people say just leave the carbon there, that the carbon is harmless and that it is self-limiting. I've seen pictures of pitted bolt tails that show otherwise. So I clean my bolt tail of the carbon.
You are wasting your time.
I don't know why anyone would use Kroil for lube? :confused:
Me neither. Then again, when you look at all the dumb shit a lot of gun owners do (from cleaning habits, to rational for purchasing certain guns, to all the dumb myths that are passed along), it doesn't surprise me one bit. I honestly think that a lot of gun owners lack critical thinking skills. That, or they simply think that because they have a penis, and own a gun, that whatever pops into their head is a good idea.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.