View Full Version : Buffer Tube Basics
K.L. Davis
06-08-06, 22:29
I know, the correct name is receiver extension tube... so now that we got one of most common mistakes out of the way, let's look at some common questions about receiver extension tubes. I do not pretend to know everything about these rifles, so if you see anything that is wrong, let me know.
This info is for carbine/short/collapsable tubes - all rifle/long/standard tubes are the same (as far as dimensions go)
What is a Mil-Spec Tube? This has to be the most common question. A milspec tube is just as the name implies, made to the specifications of the technical data package (tdp). The biggest concern is the diameter of the tube, the milspec part has a diameter of ~1.147, the thread diameter is 1.1875
So the threads are bigger, are they rolled in? originally the threads were cut in with a regular old lathe. The narrower body section of the tube is reduced by cutting with a concave shaped cutter that "shaves" the metal down, sort of like a plane; occasionally you can see the result of this technique by two "lines" that run the length of the reduced section at ten and two o'clock. Current techniques do include rolling the threads in.
So what are tubes that are not Mil-Spec? During the original cloning of the military AR, the first commercial receiver extension tubes were made from an extrusion, the threads lathe cut and the body was not reduced. The common size for this is 1.170 and that has became the de facto standard for after market tubes.
So commercial tubes are bigger, are they stronger? No, the problem with them is that the threaded section is also 1.170, so the threads are not cut to full "height" and do not fully engage the threads in the receiver. The few commercial tubes that I have seen fail, pulled the threads out of the receiver.
Are there any other concerns with after market tubes? Well, there is really no set standard for size, so they can vary by manufacturer and even from lot to lot -- you can get combinations of after market parts that are tight or loose. Some of them are made with extrusions with an end plug welded in, the quality of the welding can run from pretty solid to pretty poor.
Are those the only two sizes? No, some manufacturers have come out with systems that do not use either the milspec or the aftermarket tube size... The early Choate stock is one example of a proprietory tube.
So what fits what? Milspec tubes work with stocks from Colt, Vltor, CMT, LMT/Crane, etc.
After market tubes work with RRA, BM, DPMS, etc.
A larger, after market stock will fit on a milspec tube, but will be loose and rattle -- a milsec stock will usually not fit on an after market tube... without a hammer.
Hey! My new Mil-Spec tube is too long? Some newer tubes made for the "enhanced" M4 stock are a little longer and have a small taper to the back to match the profile of the stock butt. It should not effect the use of a Mil-Spec stock however.
And that is why when I tried putting a LMT stock on my RRA tube a couple years ago I ended up changing the tube because I didn’t have the heart to use the hammer you mentioned. Thanks, that explained a lot.
so all the threads are the same size? can any buffer tube locking nut fit any buffer tube? Must a buffer tube be staked to stay in place(will those new Ace thin lock rings work)?
FlyAndFight
01-12-07, 10:16
Stickman, any chance you could reload those pics? I'm getting the dreaded "red x's". Thanks.
Stickman, any chance you could reload those pics? I'm getting the dreaded "red x's". Thanks.
Yep, me too.
Some newer tubes made for the "enhanced" M4 stock are a little longer and have a small taper to the back to match the profile of the stock butt. It should not effect the use of a Mil-Spec stock however.
Should I be confused?
I called Magpul a week or so ago and the rep I was on the phone with was describing to me how to ID my tube if it were mil spec or not, this was in an effort to see if my tubes would work with a CTR.
The tubes I have do NOT extend past the buttstock but they are slightly canted to follow the form of the buttstock.
I was told the canted tube means it is NOT milspec.
If I read this thread right, either I heard wrong or the Magpul guy is wrong.
I am willing to bet a kick between the legs that I heard wrong.
Is it possible to buy mil-spec tubes?
Robb Jensen
01-15-07, 12:31
Is it possible to buy mil-spec tubes?
Yes, they're available from VLTOR, LMT, CMT.
K.L. Davis
01-15-07, 13:45
Some newer tubes made for the "enhanced" M4 stock are a little longer and have a small taper to the back to match the profile of the stock butt. It should not effect the use of a Mil-Spec stock however.
Should I be confused?
I called Magpul a week or so ago and the rep I was on the phone with was describing to me how to ID my tube if it were mil spec or not, this was in an effort to see if my tubes would work with a CTR.
The tubes I have do NOT extend past the buttstock but they are slightly canted to follow the form of the buttstock.
I was told the canted tube means it is NOT milspec.
If I read this thread right, either I heard wrong or the Magpul guy is wrong.
I am willing to bet a kick between the legs that I heard wrong.
I am sure it must be me that is wrong...
Manufacturers can make whatever they want, but the easy way to tell (other than actually measuring) is to look at the area where the key for the locking holes transitions into the buffer body... a milspec tube will have a sharp, very small radiused corner that looks almost square -- while the aftermarket tubes have a much larger radius, making a fillet at the corner.
Stickman, any chance you could reload those pics? I'm getting the dreaded "red x's". Thanks.
Sorry about that, they are back up now.
Sorry about that, they are back up now.
Thanks alot. Pretty much what I expected, but wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something.
What about CAA buttstocks - after market or MILSPEC?
Thanks.
Jim
Robb Jensen
01-16-07, 12:03
What about CAA buttstocks - after market or MILSPEC?
Thanks.
Jim
As far as I know their non-milspec and Jim you don't want one.
HAIL-CAESAR
01-17-07, 22:10
Hello gentlemen,
On the last post about not wanting a CAA stock????? Why not? Don't worry I don't have one. And this as you can see is my first post. But I want to thank everyone for all the info I have read over the hours and hours I've visited. THANK YOU.
AL
Robb Jensen
01-22-07, 04:43
On the last post about not wanting a CAA stock????? Why not?
Because for roughly $15-20 more than the CAA you could have a CMT mil-spec stock. I highly recommend mil-spec receiver extension over commercial tubes if this is a rifle that you might depend on to defend yourself. I also recommend staking the castle nut after torquing properly, it may never come loose on it's own and the staking ensures that it won't, it's the same exact reason carrier key screws are staked. Proper torquing and using high quality parts and it may never come loose, staking ensures that it won't.
The mil-spec tubes have the full/completed threads and won't spin off with the castle nut, gouging the tube as RRA sometimes do, Bushys usually don't do it but they're not mil-spec either. I have found a technique to avoid this with the Loc-Tited on RRA receiver extensions.
Hey! My new Mil-Spec tube is too long? Some newer tubes made for the "enhanced" M4 stock are a little longer and have a small taper to the back to match the profile of the stock butt. It should not effect the use of a Mil-Spec stock however.
I can confirm that the tubes CMMG uses, combined with the Magpul CTR stock are not entirely compatable. They have this taper and longer length you mentioned.
My CMMG rifle will not allow the CTR to engage at the shortest position.
I brought this up to them (CMMG) after receiving my rifle and they simply told me that "Yes, the CTR will not lock up on the shortest position with our tubes." Frankly, I would have liked to have been told this prior to having my rifle built, because I would have been happy to ship CMMG the proper tube as to avoid this aggrivation from happening at all.
There are two solutions. One of which was addressed by Magpul themselves. Magpul sent me a butt pad/spacer for my CTR that is thicker than what is now currently available (the thicker pads should be available soon...I got one shipped early...thanks Magpul!) These pads/spacers have a deeper recess for the tube (maybe a half inch) than the current CTR pads.
Once installed, this thicker pad/spacer for the CTR just barely allowed the CMMG tube to lock up on the shortest position, but, trying to UNLOCK it from that position took an incredible amount of force on my part, making this an unacceptable solution.
The other solution is a 5 position mil spec tube available from DSA's web page. It's shorter and I have been told the CTR will function as it should with this tube. I haven't replaced my tube with this one yet, but I will.
John Hearne
04-13-07, 12:51
Can we get a list of which manufacturers sell their lowers with Mil-Spec buffer tubes?
invisible man
04-27-07, 15:28
I just orderd the CTR/and milspec tube combo from Grant. Figgured get it done in one shot. I am just wondering if the hbuffer is good for bolth carbine and mid length rifles?
Hey guys,
First post here. I'm wanting to upgrade my RRA with a new CTR and if I'm gonna do that I might as well change the tube to a milspec. Am I correct in assuming the buffers are compatible between the two different sizes as I've never seen any buffers marked specifically for commercial or mil-spec? What about the back plate, nut etc? I have a couple of each laying around so I'd rather just pick up the tube and stock body if possible. Plus is there one mil-spec tube thats better than the others? Thanks for the info!
-RD62
Most tubes with the cant are comm. tubes. The exception are a few CMMG tubes that are mil spec dems. and have a canted end.
I owe you a kick in the nads;)
Some newer tubes made for the "enhanced" M4 stock are a little longer and have a small taper to the back to match the profile of the stock butt. It should not effect the use of a Mil-Spec stock however.
Should I be confused?
I called Magpul a week or so ago and the rep I was on the phone with was describing to me how to ID my tube if it were mil spec or not, this was in an effort to see if my tubes would work with a CTR.
The tubes I have do NOT extend past the buttstock but they are slightly canted to follow the form of the buttstock.
I was told the canted tube means it is NOT milspec.
If I read this thread right, either I heard wrong or the Magpul guy is wrong.
I am willing to bet a kick between the legs that I heard wrong.
More questions....
Ok, so where does this put ACE stocks, especially the SOCOM stocks?
Does this threading issue only apply to extensions or does it also apply to the lower receiver?
In other words, do all lowers have the correct milspec thread?
Robb Jensen
09-03-07, 11:51
More questions....
Ok, so where does this put ACE stocks, especially the SOCOM stocks?
Does this threading issue only apply to extensions or does it also apply to the lower receiver?
In other words, do all lowers have the correct milspec thread?
Depending on which model your talking about an ACE stock can use either a proprietary receiver extension, a rifle receiver extension or a 'entry' length rifle receiver extension. So it's really neither mil-spec nor commercial.
The only one that they make that I like is the ACE rifle length skeleton stock. I don't like the way the others attach.
I have an ACE SOCOM and although I like the stock itself I agree the attachment method sucks.
On one of my RRA rifles, the stock wiggles in the receiver. I can screw it down tight, but then it's not lined up. Ultimately, I wrapped teflon tape around the threads and screwed it in. This eliminated the wiggle.
In my last carbine class a guy had one of these and had the same problem.
Great site, I’ve been browsing a little while. Lots of good CORRECT info found here.
I have the ACE Socom butt stock on a couple of my AR's. I have one of the original designs on my 50 Beowulf. I don't recommend one for this caliber as I have seen a few break (collapse when firing). However, I have approx 1000 rounds with no failures on mine yet.
The other ACE Socom I have is a second gen and is installed on one of my 5.56 16”. It has over 10 K though it now.
As someone mentioned the mounting sucks. However, I loctited both of these into the receivers with 2440 and neither have came lose to date.
Ok, I am still a little confused.
Will a mil-spec receiver extention correctly thread into all major brand lower receivers?
Ok, I am still a little confused.
Will a mil-spec receiver extention correctly thread into all major brand lower receivers?
Yes they will.
I was going to put one of those single point sling att. that are in front of the castle nut (I think its called )on my AR that is not staked. Should I wait until I put the att on before I stake it? Once it is staked can you still get the castle nut off if need be?
If it is staked properly, you are going to need to replace the plate you deformed to stake it to the castle nut. I don't know how hard the castle nut will to turn but, you may need a dremel tool to cut the staked material free first.
All this wonderful reporting.
I am going to continue to hold my opinion that a commercial tube is a bit stronger that a commercial tube and I will continue to use the one I have on a rifle that could be used for defense and I don't feel this is going to affect my survivability in a gunfight.
If you feel the receiver ring and the commercial extension tube are weak links in and among themselves, I suggest you add a bit more support in the area with a Midwest Industries single point sling mount that clamps over the tube and the castle nut.
Staking is OK but not absolutely necessary if everything is installed properly.
It is the Military way of keeping people from taking things apart that they shouldn't be.
I have no problem with CAA stocks and guess the only reason one might is because they are made in Israel.
The stocks seem to work just fine for them and I am pretty sure the rifles they are on over there are used in combat far more often than most of the rifles over here.
Battery storage compartment doesn't rattle, the clip on spare magazine carrier is trick and the clip on cheekrest works and even comes in a foam covered version for added comfort.
Some real junk here.
I do use a MagPul CTR stock on my personal collapser,,,,with a commercial extension tube too.
No problems here and don't even use an H marked buffer either.:rolleyes:
Staking is OK but not absolutely necessary if everything is installed properly. It is the Military way of keeping people from taking things apart that they shouldn't be.
This is absolutely not true. I have personally had a properly torqued down castle nut loosen from my M16 after only 4 - 5 mags on auto. This happened to me more than once. The buffer tube WILL transfer some vibrational forces to the castle nut, which can cause it to loosen. This has happened to me with both a standard Colt M4 stock and with a Knights receiver endplate singlepoint. Staking helps prevent this.
Sorry to hear that and,,,,OK.
If it makes you feel any better I do stake castle nuts because that is what I was trained to do.
I am a working gunsmith and was a small arms repairman during my time in the US Army.
I have repaired many, many M16 rifles, some M177 carbines, and civilian semi auto clone rifles from many different sources.
I have yet to repair the collapsing stock assembly of any rifle featuring this option where the fault could be directly traced to a commercial extension tube or an unstaked castle nut.
I still stand on my statement, though I really should have clarified that the statement is mainly intended for civilian semi automatic rifles, that staking of the castle nut is not absolutely necessary for safe and reliable functioning of the weapon.
All US MILITARY issue full auto and burst fire carbines have the castle nut staked as a matter of course, period, it is what is specified, there are no allowances for discrepency.
The most prevelent failure of collapsing stocks that I have seen is locking latch failure.
The staking of the latch nut does not appear to prevent this occurance either.
Not many civilian shooters have access to full auto M4 carbines or M16 rifles. There just aren't that many of them available and freely transferable on the market and those that are have the distinction of being extremely expensive now, almost too expensive to subject to the wear and tear of actual heavy duty firing.
I am sure most folks who have an interest in military weaponry would love to have that right to the full auto option allowed to them on an affordable basis but they are not.
Since you state that you are using a full auto M16 and not a CAR, M177, or M4 then it stands to reason that you, or someone else, installed that collapser stock as an add on right?
None of the posters here, myself included, have any proof or knowledge that your stock assembly was in fact, assembled correctly.
I did say and I quote: "Staking is not absolutely necessary if everything is installed correctly." Though my original statement was intended for civilian rifles I do feel it has merit when used in conjunction with full automatic rifles also.
The staking is applied to the castle nut to keep people from taking things apart that they should not be taking apart.
Unit level Armorers are not authorized to remove the stock assemblies from weapons, this is only done on a limited basis at level one depot repair and mainly preformed at level 2 depot repair.
Just the same, a police or paramilitary armorer should probably stake the castle nut if the weapons come from the source unstaked as a matter of course
and to eliminate any possible potential issues of liability and most certainly to eliminate complaining from the more gun saavy officers.
Your retort was thoughtful but it still hasn't altered my personal opinion on this subject.
If a shooter feels more comfortable with a staked castle nut, by all means stake the castle nut.
Because some manufacturers do not stake the castle nut does not automatically make their rifle crap unworthy of purchase or contemplation.
I did say and I quote: "Staking is not absolutely necessary if everything is installed correctly." Though my original statement was intended for civilian rifles I do feel it has merit when used in conjunction with full automatic rifles also.
The staking is applied to the castle nut to keep people from taking things apart that they should not be taking apart.
My own experience I agree. I have a Full/Auto gun and I never stake it. Reason being I am frequently changing stocks and such and just do not do it. I have never had a problem in thousands of rounds.
I also agree the "locking latch failure" is most common. I do not have this problem anymore though since I no longer use the factory Colt stock.
A tiny dab of blue Loctite keep castle nuts tight for me. A proper wrench will both provide proper torque when tightening and will also break blue Loctite when necessary to replace the receiver extension.
If you all feel comfortable not staking a castle nut, great. To suggest it's the way to do things is unresponsible & ill informed. The mechanical engineers that put the recess in the caste nut, to allow metal from the staking process to push into the castle nut, ensuring it would not back out knew what they were doing.
This forum, tends to have a more proffessional/informed perspective than the usual www.anecdotal.crap
I have seen FACTORY assembled: HK, Colt, BM receiver extension tubes all come loose. If not for the staking the reciever extension tube would have backed off allowing the buffer detent to pop up rendering the weapon unusable. You can still fight with a wobbly stock, not a seperated one.
Cause: Poor assembly process. A castle nut should be torqued, backed off & retorqued 3x like a barrel nut & then properly staked in two positions. Tolerance stack will determine how tight the reciever extension tube (buffer tube improperly said) will fit in the lower reciever.
Point well taken and very well stated. I was speaking from a hobby aspect where the receiver extension may be removed, swapped, or replaced frequently as a rifle's configuration is changed. Once the final configuration is decided upon by the owner, by all means stake that castle nut.
I have a Noveske lower and want to install a UBR stock but need to remove the castle nut that has ben staked...how do I go about removing a castle nut that has been staked?
I have a Noveske lower and want to install a UBR stock but need to remove the castle nut that has ben staked...how do I go about removing a castle nut that has been staked?
Either torque the mother off (this works if the stake job isn't deep) or dremel the stakings.
I have a Noveske lower and want to install a UBR stock but need to remove the castle nut that has ben staked...how do I go about removing a castle nut that has been staked?
I've found that rather than just slowly applying force to the wrench, a series of short, sharp, pulls works better. It's a bit similar to the way an impact wrench breaks a nut loose. I've had good result with a block(magazine) and vice. It shouldn't take an excessive amount of force.
Call me irresponsible and ill informed, I can take it.
Professional is spelled p-r-o-f-e-s-s-i-o-n-a-l.
To spell it any other way is ill informed.
An extension tube cannot become loose without the castle nut backing off first.
There is a tab on the endplate that butts up against the receiver and the tab fits into the milled keyslot on the extension tube which prevents the extension tube from turning in the receiver.
What can happen is the castle nut can back away from the endplate far enough to allow the bottom of the endplate to be pushed away from the receiver freeing the selector detent and spring which can cause the selector to pop free into the lower receiver and all kinds of fun and merryment ensues.
The engineers who designed the castle nut were also well aware of the meaning of the word 'redundency'.
Look it up.
First off, I am an armorer and am currently working in Iraq for a large PMC. I have quite a bit of weapons experience and have current certifications from Beretta, Barrett, Colt, Dillon, FN, Glock, Knights Armament, Remington and Sigarms. I have 9 years military experience in the US Army and Coast Guard.
Now to the subject at hand. I have never seen a Bushmaster carbine from the factory come with a staked locking collar. But, I have seen ALOT of them loosen during shooting, especially when firing in auto. All of the ones we have on contract are select fire guns. I have also seen bolt carrier keys that were allegedly torqued and staked come loose as well. So to say that there is no need to stake the collars is irresponsible and tells me that that individual doesn't care much about this weapons. There is a reason why the military does this. I have also seen lower receiver extensions that were put on and the collars tightened so much that the threads were stripped. As far as I am concerned Loc-tite is not an acceptable substitution.
I have no axe to grind with anyone here as I am a new member. But, I also know that there are alot of "experts" out there who have never used a weapon in the field and even fewer have done troubleshooting or repairs in the field.
Cheap backplates do not stake well. Those with rough edges found on lesser brand ARs are shit and should be avoided.
Seth Harness
06-07-08, 22:50
Regardless of mil-spec or commercial, do all tubes have the same inner diameter?
Don't know if this has been asked, but can a commercial tube be replaced with a mil spec tube?
Yes. Simply remove and replace. Stay away from Loc-tite and stake the end plate to the nut and you are GTG. You will also have to replace the current stock as well due to the difference in the outer diameter of the tube.
Don't know if this has been asked, but can a commercial tube be replaced with a mil spec tube?
Yes. Simply remove and replace. Stay away from Loc-tite and stake the end plate to the nut and you are GTG. You will also have to replace the current stock as well due to the difference in the outer diameter of the tube.
Cool. Thanks.
My Bushmater M4 superlight (circa 2004) had its unstaked castle-nut spinning
off before I even shot the first round through it. Within about 10min of handling my new weapon (also my first AR purchase) I noticed the castle-nut spinning down the threads. Wish I had found this site before that purchase.:mad:
Not to worry, that M4forgery no longer resides with me:)
Don't know if this has been asked, but can a commercial tube be replaced with a mil spec tube?
It should be MANDATORY! :cool:
Cheap backplates do not stake well. Those with rough edges found on lesser brand ARs are shit and should be avoided.
This is true. Those with rough edges can wear on the edges over time where it mates up to the receiver allowing looseness.
Another thing that I have not seen mention, although I could have missed it, is that Milspec receiver extensions,(Colt) are forged out of a solid hunk of aluminum and machined down. There is a good bit of material waste in this process, but it is necessary inorder for the receiver extension to pass drop tests.
Most commercial tubes are not.
Would you also suggest it mandatory for rifle length REs to be replaced if they're "commercial?" I have an A2 kit which was $75 total and (thanks to Bill Alexander) I recently looked at the end plate which was welded on, although the grinding was very nicely done. SAW has forged rifle REs for around $50, and cast for maybe $30. I assume either would be mil-spec, and better than the one I have...?
Outlander Systems
02-23-09, 21:08
K.L. Davis:
Thanks for this post.
Consider giving me the "Dingbat" of the week award, but I absolutely, positively, could not get any stocks to fit my S&W, without being wobbly. I had assumed that the 'tube was Comm. After Mr. Davis' post, I check Rob's chart again, and realised that:
1) I had exhibited and obscene lack of attention to detail
2) The S&W definitely does NOT have a comm tube.
This thread should be stickied for bozos like me.
Some moron on TOS posted that having a mil spec RE was a snob issue. :rolleyes:
This after the factual differences between the two were clearly laid out. Stupid people annoy the crap out of me.
whiskey lake
09-15-09, 16:35
I was curious what the consensus here was on the best tube and spring to use? Are there manufacturers that produce higher quality tubes and springs than others? Are there some to stay away from?
I bought mine from a vendor of Colt products, SAW: Specialized Armament.
Because for roughly $15-20 more than the CAA you could have a CMT mil-spec stock. I highly recommend mil-spec receiver extension over commercial tubes if this is a rifle that you might depend on to defend yourself. I also recommend staking the castle nut after torquing properly, it may never come loose on it's own and the staking ensures that it won't, it's the same exact reason carrier key screws are staked. Proper torquing and using high quality parts and it may never come loose, staking ensures that it won't.
The mil-spec tubes have the full/completed threads and won't spin off with the castle nut, gouging the tube as RRA sometimes do, Bushys usually don't do it but they're not mil-spec either. I have found a technique to avoid this with the Loc-Tited on RRA receiver extensions.
Hey have you been looking at my RRA tube! I've had that exact problem with mine!
vicious_cb
11-16-09, 00:54
Something that kind of annoys me.
I staked my end plate into the castle nut at 3 places. When I first installed the tube, the thing was rock solid. Now after a few thousand rounds thru the lower the buffer tube rotates slightly back and fourth but the rotation is limited by the end plate notch. I want to tighten it down again but its staked to hell. :(
Eric Kozowski
11-16-09, 01:45
I have a Noveske lower and want to install a UBR stock but need to remove the castle nut that has ben staked...how do I go about removing a castle nut that has been staked?
I've used a small, quality pin punch to knock the displaced metal back into the receiver end plate. Then, apply torque to the wrench.....
(snip)...
The other solution is a 5 position mil spec tube available from DSA's web page. It's shorter and I have been told the CTR will function as it should with this tube. I haven't replaced my tube with this one yet, but I will.
Can anyone confirm the 5 positions are different in major dimensions from the usual six position? I always assumed they were the same OAL and overall adjustment range just with longer spaces between detents.
I'm getting ready to order a Milspec tube for my ACS today so this thread being bumped up like this is timely!
the_fallguy
11-17-09, 01:23
Can anyone confirm the 5 positions are different in major dimensions from the usual six position? I always assumed they were the same OAL and overall adjustment range just with longer spaces between detents.
I'm getting ready to order a Milspec tube for my ACS today so this thread being bumped up like this is timely!
I just compared a VLTOR 5 position RE to a Stag 6 position RE, and they were the same over all length. The 5 holes are just spaced a little farther apart as you suspected.
I would have been surprised if the length was different, but you never know until you ask. Thanks!
Does anyone have a photo of the staked castlenut and plate so I can see the index points??
Wish I had read this 2 weeks ago. I just put a Magpul MOE on my commercical tubed Bushy and now I wish I had swapped the comm. tube for mil spec and gone with the mil spec MOE stock! DOH!:(
Does anyone have a photo of the staked castlenut and plate so I can see the index points??
Wish I had read this 2 weeks ago. I just put a Magpul MOE on my commercical tubed Bushy and now I wish I had swapped the comm. tube for mil spec and gone with the mil spec MOE stock! DOH!:(
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j18/Skintop911/Diemaco%206520s/IMG_1673.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j18/Skintop911/AR6520s/IMG_1364.jpg
Wow! That was fast! Thanks mate!
Does anyone have a photo of the staked castlenut and plate so I can see the index points??
Wish I had read this 2 weeks ago. I just put a Magpul MOE on my commercical tubed Bushy and now I wish I had swapped the comm. tube for mil spec and gone with the mil spec MOE stock! DOH!:(
Colt
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/AR15forme/Colt%20AR15/IMG_5877.jpg
DIY w/punch
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/AR15forme/Colt%20AR15/DIYstaking-1.jpg
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