View Full Version : How to make performance better (DD)/spare parts
Djstorm100
03-09-12, 13:24
Hey guys, I'm new to ARs when it comes to do's,don'ts- parts- brands etc. I've been reading the stickys like crazy.
I recently got a Daniel Defense (DD) v5 with ecotech 512 and BUIS
I was wondering 2 things.
1) how can I make my Daniel defense better? I love the rifle, thinking about maybe getting one stage trigger for ligther pull.
Also what does the bolt upgrade with the oring and heavier spring for the extractor do?
2) I want to get a spare parts kit, what parts should I really focus on?
Also when it comes to lube I want something that will last! Not to turn this in to VS. thread but is motor oil as good as everyone saids? Been looking at slp2000 ewl.
Thanks!
Hey guys, I'm new to ARs when it comes to do's,don'ts- parts- brands etc. I've been reading the stickys like crazy.
I recently got a Daniel Defense (DD) v5 with ecotech 512 and BUIS
I was wondering 2 things.
1) how can I make my Daniel defense better? I love the rifle, thinking about maybe getting one stage trigger for ligther pull.
Also what does the bolt upgrade with the oring and heavier spring for the extractor do?
2) I want to get a spare parts kit, what parts should I really focus on?
Also when it comes to lube, I'm anal as hell. :sarcastic: Not to turn this in to VS. thread but is motor oil as good as everyone saids? Been looking at slp2000 ewl.
Thanks!i think your choice of words should be the first thought in your mind in the future.
Djstorm100
03-09-12, 13:41
i think your choice of words should be the first thought in your mind in the future.
LMAO. We see where you mind is sir!
Bad choice of words on my parts.
I'm pick in how I keep my weapons clean and stored. Wanted to know motor oil 10w-30 is just as good as slp2000 ewl
sorry, for derailing your original post. ;-)
i am new at all of this with rifles. i've been searching a bunch and reading tons of posts from those who have a lot more experience with all of this than i do.
i'll step aside, as i am interested in any responses you may receive, too.
Hunter Rose
03-09-12, 13:48
Since you are new to ARs. In answer to #1: shoot it...a lot.
The DDM4v5 is pretty much GTG out of the box. Shoot a couple thousand rounds through it and see how you like it before replacing parts that don't need to be replaced.
Any money spent now needlessly switching stuff around would be better spent on ammo.
Djstorm100
03-09-12, 13:52
sorry, for derailing your original post. ;-)
i am new at all of this with rifles. i've been searching a bunch and reading tons of posts from those who have a lot more experience with all of this than i do.
i'll step aside, as i am interested in any responses you may receive, too.
you are all good buddy lol
Since you are new to ARs. In answer to #1: shoot it...a lot.
The DDM4v5 is pretty much GTG out of the box. Shoot a couple thousand rounds through it and see how you like it before replacing parts that don't need to be replaced.
Any money spent now needlessly switching stuff around would be better spent on ammo.
What about spare parts kit/ the extractor mod..is it totally necessary?
Sounds like a solid carbine. Best to go shoot it, take some classes.
Djstorm100
03-09-12, 14:00
Sounds like a solid carbine. Best to go shoot it, take some classes.
I'm planning on doing that now. Getting the required gear. How does 175 for a full day private lesson sound?
I'd say no to the extractor mod.
As far as spare parts, a spare bolt should pretty much cover you. I'd buy another DD if I were you or at least make sure whatever you get is MPI.
RE Lube...there are a million threads here about it and some guys change lubes more than they change their underwear. I started using SLIP2000 last year after using CLP for the past 10 years and the SLIP is much better. It doesn't deteriorate nearly as quickly as the CLP used to.
If I were you, I'd get 12 PMAGs, a good Carbine Course, and 1k rounds of quality brass cased ammo before I worried about buying a spare bolt, though. I'm telling you, a basic carbine class from someone like Vickers will answer many of the questions you may have as well as teaching you good weapons handling, manipulation, and marksmanship techniques.
I'm planning on doing that now. Getting the required gear. How does 175 for a full day private lesson sound?
It really depends on who the instructor is.
Djstorm100
03-09-12, 14:08
It really depends on who the instructor is.
This group. I'm working on the Ammo and mags. Have 3 mags and 250 rounds.
Ive notice it is little heavier than other but I'll take the weight as it is strong.
This group. I'm working on the Ammo and mags. Have 3 mags and 250 rounds.
Ive notice it is little heavier than other but I'll take the weight as it is strong.
What's heavy? The M4V5 is one of the lighter rifles on the market. Do you have a pic of your setup?
And what is "this group" for training?
Djstorm100
03-09-12, 14:28
What's heavy? The M4V5 is one of the lighter rifles on the market. Do you have a pic of your setup?
And what is "this group" for training?
Heavier than my friends DMPS but its a 560.00 gun.
I love mine, don't get me wrong at all! I would buy another one in a heart beat. One for GT and another one for comp, if I got in to competition.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/424103_2921000469415_1392900064_32360496_1748668316_n.jpg
SomeOtherGuy
03-09-12, 18:35
Shoot it a lot. Get professional instruction if you haven't already had some. Don't modify anything. Get a quality two-point sling if you don't already have one.
There are spare parts kits that are worth having. Unfortunately the only prepackaged ones I know of come from Armalite (middle of the road quality) and DPMS (not recommended). I'd get the Armalite spares kit, or two of them. The parts are at least good enough. Here's the Armalite kit:
http://dsgarms.com/ProductInfo/ARMEMK012.aspx
Or you can separately buy the parts you are most likely to break or lose - probably the firing pin retaining pin, the extractor, and extractor spring.
Grant, you might consider adding a spares kit to your offerings!
how can I make my Daniel defense better? I love the rifle, thinking about maybe getting one stage trigger for ligther pull. Why does it need to be made better, is it a piece of shit? Does it not properly function? How many rounds have been fired through it before you decided you want to upgrade the trigger. If you feel it to be absolutely neccesary, look at the ALG ACT trigger.
Also what does the bolt upgrade with the oring and heavier spring for the extractor do? This is only suggested for rifles that are over gassing, you won't have that problem with a DD.
2) I want to get a spare parts kit, what parts should I really focus on? Read What's in your range bag? (https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=11638), Spare parts (https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=46116), and Spare parts for m4? (https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=50092)
Also when it comes to lube I want something that will last! Not to turn this in to VS. thread but is motor oil as good as everyone saids? Been looking at slp2000 ewl. Slip2000 or froglube are going to be the most recommended. Don't get too caught up on which lube you use. Motor oil is fine for the BCG, but you shuold use a lube on the rest of the rifle (run it wet.)
Thanks!
Before you decide to start dicking around and adding a bunch of unnecessary crap, shoot the gun first. Put a can of ammo through it first and then decide what needs to be changed/fixed.
For spare parts I would just go with a complete bolt and firing pin. Not necessarily needed of course and if your going to go in deep it is better have a full gun.
Nothing wrong with the factory extractor and spring in the DD from my experience.
I often just use 10W 30, but it is a "poison of choice" area anyway.
Would pull the Eotech back a little so its all on the receiver (the part that hovers can continue to hover over the rails).
Maybe some "mission essentials" like a sling, flashlight, and QD mount for the Eotech. Depends with what you want to do with the rifle.
Maybe some grease on the trigger until it smooths out, should hold off on new trigger until you shoot enough to break it in and get a good feel.
Really though you don't need to do much besides lube it and shoot it and sleep over the details and alterations.
its a solid rifle out of the box, but there is no substitute for trigger time. practice a lot and improve your skills and during the course of getting some trigger time you will slowly figure out what spare parts/upgrades are needed and/or desired. you can go ahead and purchase a bunch of stuff now and roll the dice on what really works best for you, but my advice would be to shoot about 2k rounds through it first and then revisit the upgrades.
Heavier than my friends DMPS but its a 560.00 gun.
LOL!!!
You should be fine without any upgrades for a while. One of the biggest crimes I have seen is when a person gets a good AR, and proceeds to strap grip pods, and other various magical products.
I would not even suggest a forgrip until you have shot it a while.
Quiet-Matt
03-10-12, 07:19
That carbine is great the way it is. I'll second the idea af moving the EoTech back a bit. It's not true monolithic so your'e better off keeping the mount portion all on the receiver. If you plan to use the gun in a defense role, a good white light would be a good idea.
Take a bit of advice from those of us that have already wasted our money, don't go adding a bunch of stuff to it. In a year or two you'll find that you have an expensive box of un-necessary expensive parts; and your gun will look pretty much like it did when you got it.
Hey guys, I'm new to ARs when it comes to do's,don'ts- parts- brands etc. I've been reading the stickys like crazy.
I recently got a Daniel Defense (DD) v5 with ecotech 512 and BUIS
I was wondering 2 things.
1) how can I make my Daniel defense better? I love the rifle, thinking about maybe getting one stage trigger for ligther pull.
First, good choice on the gun. You have a USGI single stage trigger in the gun now. The after market single stage triggers tend to be on the SUPER light side (2-4lbs) and are really geared more toward varmint shooting and paper punching (not a good choice on a defensive tool).
So if you want to look at a good (fairly priced) single stage (combat grade) check out the new ALG offerings.
Also what does the bolt upgrade with the oring and heavier spring for the extractor do?
2) I want to get a spare parts kit, what parts should I really focus on?
Also when it comes to lube I want something that will last! Not to turn this in to VS. thread but is motor oil as good as everyone saids? Been looking at slp2000 ewl.
Thanks!
Certain springs and components wear out at somewhere between 3-5k. Here is the short list of items to have as spares:
Extractor Spring
Extractor insert
Buffer Spring
Gas Rings
Ejector Spring
Bolt
Cam Pin
This is one of the best extractor spring kits out there: http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=BOLTUK3
Slip is an excellent lube. There are also some others that are quality (Frong Lube, Machine Gunners Lube, WilsonCombat, etc). I use them all and have all worked well.
C4
lethal dose
03-10-12, 08:38
hey, man. welcome to the forum. looks like you're off to a great start. i'm not a huge fan of eotech, but that's besides the point. for all intended purposes, it'll probably be fine. with that said, you NEED to get a good sling. if you can track one down, i HIGHLY recommend the VCAS from BFG with the sewn in QD attachments... that sling will compliment your setup VERY well... all you need to do is add a noveske QD receiver end plate. after that, grab a good light (surefire g2 is a great inexpensive option, as is elzetta) and light mount (i really like mr. trusty's offerings over at gear sector or the danger close light mount). links to said equipment:
http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=VCAS-PB-AA
http://www.gearsector.com/view/product/172/
http://www.gearsector.com/view/product/174/
http://store.greygrouptraining.com/LOWPRO-FLASHLIGHT-MOUNT.html
http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=G2L
http://www.elzetta.com/zfl-m60FAQ.htm
lethal dose
03-10-12, 08:51
to go along with what grant said... slip2000 is GREAT stuff. i have, however used synthetic motor oil with great results, also. as far as the trigger goes, you should be alright. get out there and get familiar with the weapon and function test it between 700-1000 rounds. this will give you some time to familiarize yourself with the platform and make sure it will function 100%... PLUS, you'll break that trigger in a little better. while your on the interwebz, grab a good cleaning kit and a boresnake... they're nice to have around. as for zeroing the optic and sights, i like a 50 y/m zero... YMMV. lastly, do you mind disclosing which region you live in? if you don't want the world to know, pm me and i can get you set up with some affordable training in your region. i am currently in the upstate of south carolina... if you're in the area, i'd be glad to help out in whatever way i can.
brzusa.1911
03-10-12, 08:53
I also have a DD M4 V5, lub is very important and as you can see preferences vary. I always use CLP to clean and FP-10 to lub, it works great for me. I say two things you can do to make you great rife even greater - Geissele SSA trigger and spare BCG. I have one BCG dedicated for range and practice that I use on any rifle I am practicing with. This way I know the BCG currently running on a rifle (not the spare/range/practice) is on top of its game.
Djstorm100
03-10-12, 09:04
Thanks guys! May I ask why to move the ecotech back? And how far? Purpose of having it there was to get use to it. Have a better field of view. Since I'm not racing anymore I like to get in some type of competition whether it's three gun/ tactical/ something like IDPA. I'm in Raleigh nc
Thanks guys! May I ask why to move the ecotech back? And how far? Purpose of having it there was to get use to it. Have a better field of view. Since I'm not racing anymore I like to get in some type of competition whether it's three gun/ tactical/ something like IDPA. I'm in Raleigh nc
Because it appears to be mounted half on the upper receiver and half on the quad rail from the picture. I wouldn't bridge the rails like that.
lethal dose
03-10-12, 09:13
cool, man. there are quite a few training opportunities near you. if you'd like me to set something up for ya sometime, let me know... i'd be happy to help!
Djstorm100
03-10-12, 10:26
Because it appears to be mounted half on the upper receiver and half on the quad rail from the picture. I wouldn't bridge the rails like that.
You just want the actual clamp to be on the receiver?
Failure2Stop
03-10-12, 10:28
You just want the actual clamp to be on the receiver?
You want any portion of the mount that contacts the rail to be fully on the upper receiver.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
First off, congrats on a great rifle. I have about a thousand rounds through my DD V4 without a hint of needing anything except more ammo and lube. I plan on running another 3-4 thousand rounds before changing or modding anything and I will do so only if it needs it. DD makes a damn fine rifle and it will serve you well for a long time. As others have said here, get a sling, Pmags and ammo then go shoot the piss out of it.
Littlelebowski
03-10-12, 10:45
Upgrade the software, not the hardware. Do so by taking a class.
Djstorm100
03-10-12, 10:47
You want any portion of the mount that contacts the rail to be fully on the upper receiver.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
First off, congrats on a great rifle. I have about a thousand rounds through my DD V4 without a hint of needing anything except more ammo and lube. I plan on running another 3-4 thousand rounds before changing or modding anything and I will do so only if it needs it. DD makes a damn fine rifle and it will serve you well for a long time. As others have said here, get a sling, Pmags and ammo then go shoot the piss out of it.
Thats what I'll do then. I'll double check it as well.
I love the rifle and to think I was going to go with a DMPS. I was between the DD and colt 9620. Hell I may build me one or buy the colt next time.
The only thing I would like to change right now is the charging handle because I'm a left handed shooter and been told, charge the weapon with your support hand, not trigger hand.
LoneWolfRonin
03-10-12, 11:24
I just got a V7 and the only things I did were ambi Bad Ass safety selector with short throw levers, norgen mag release, and a front sling mount from IWC.
Thanks guys! May I ask why to move the ecotech back? And how far? Purpose of having it there was to get use to it. Have a better field of view. Since I'm not racing anymore I like to get in some type of competition whether it's three gun/ tactical/ something like IDPA. I'm in Raleigh nc
The forward rails flex but the receiver stays put which can make the sight misaligned or cause damage to it or the rails. Since the part that hovers (battery area) is not touching anything and is far enough away, it can hover over the gap just fine. Used an Eotech myself for a while and had the batteries hovering over the gap.
Djstorm100
03-10-12, 20:07
Thanks guys for the help. I moved the ecotech as well. I oiled the gun last night ( exterior) and let it soak and just wiped it excess off. It looks so much richer in color and has a nice shine to it. Used CLP since it prevents rust very well. How do you guys to the small parts of the rail?
Also picked up a sling today. Question is. Mount points. Butt stock vs front of the rail vs under the castle nut vs on the rail right where it means the upper recciever. I have 4 mount points not sure which to use. I figure it is matter of perfence but I'm jut checking.
Lastly if I have to draw from hoslter. ( pistol) any tips or tricks since I shoot rifle left handed but shoot pistol right? Seems like it may be a little funny/ awarded
Thanks again!
Littlelebowski
03-10-12, 20:23
You REALLY need training. No joke.
Also, aluminum doesn't rust.
Djstorm100
03-10-12, 20:25
You REALLY need training. No joke.
Also, aluminum doesn't rust.
I know but it's more of preservative more than anything. I'm talking to a guy about training now lol one thing at a time lol
As far as spare parts go, I know it's been said, but a spare bolt and firing pin should be all you need. I don't feel the need personally to keep spares on me at all times, but if you do, Magpul makes a insert for their MIAD/MOE grips that will hold a complete bolt and firing pin, which I can see the utility in. For other spare parts, keep shooting, if something else breaks, small pins or springs, buy a few extra of them and keep them handy. Some firearms (and machines in general) just have a habit of eating one or two random parts (my old eclipse would kill a power window switch on the driver window every 3 months like clockwork it seemed).
For lube, I'm a big fan of Molybdenum grease for all my AR/AK pattern rifles. Seems to do a good job keeping them running when it starts to get around 0 degrees. It's also cheap, not messy, easy to find, and in a pinch I could use it to lubricate just about anything on the planet.
With regards to improving performance, those ALG triggers look like a nice option for "utility" type rifles (i.e. not purpose built precision/hunting or run-and-gun type competition rifles) and may very well find their way into my BCM middy soon. Other than that, a sling is beyond useful. I have a box full of the cheap Blakhawk! slings Midway carries and put them on about every long arm I own. They work well and hold up good, but a Vickers also might pop up on my BCM soon too, just to try one out.
No offense intended (it's my case as well) but I'm willing to bet the biggest improvement to be gained in performance would be investing in ammo, range time and training. It's also the most fun way to spend money on your rifle!
I think alot of the "weight" you feel is the Eotech. That model you have is heavy, I know because I have one. Try the newer XPS 2-0 model or Aimpoint H1 for less weight.
thopkins22
03-11-12, 12:05
Lastly if I have to draw from hoslter. ( pistol) any tips or tricks since I shoot rifle left handed but shoot pistol right? Seems like it may be a little funny/ awarded
This strikes me as an excellent question for the "Ask Larry Vickers" forum here. If I were you, I'd PM the moderator "Shivan" and ask if he believes it's a good question to put forth.
I'm talking to a guy about training now lol one thing at a time lol
you're focusing on the wrong "one thing".
You need to take an intro carbine course with a quality instructor. You are asking questions to which you can either find the answers by searching here and reading other threads, or which are irrelevant until you learn how to use the gun and get out and practice what you learn, or both.
Try this guy (instructors/)
Chris Clifton
chris@defensiveconceptsnc.com
Defensive Concepts North Carolina
Based in North Carolina
Serving all 50 States
(704) 269-8369
www.defensiveconceptsnc.com
Mauser KAR98K
03-11-12, 13:12
Great first rifle. You are on the right track. Pretty soon you will be spouting off that you built your first AR.
Everything said before has been spot on. Do find quality training, and not at some friend's backyard range. Training in anything (especially if they offer a certificate or some goody to keep layers at bay if you happen to use the weapon in self-defense). I have yet been able to get into a class, but where I live, and my budget, it is extremely hard.
Then there are the Magpul Dynamics videos that can point in the right direction of a lot of things.
As for lights: I am loving the Streamlight TRL series. Very easy to use and can mount on almost anything. They are also very light and will cost about the same as a new Surefire G2 and what ever mount you get for. Plus, the beam, to me, is brighter.
Don't be afraid to get the thing dirty. It isn't to be pretty, unlike those DPMS shooters think of their "gold" standard stuff.
Shoot hard, play hard.
Thanks guys for the help. I moved the ecotech as well. I oiled the gun last night ( exterior) and let it soak and just wiped it excess off. It looks so much richer in color and has a nice shine to it. Used CLP since it prevents rust very well. How do you guys to the small parts of the rail?
Also picked up a sling today. Question is. Mount points. Butt stock vs front of the rail vs under the castle nut vs on the rail right where it means the upper recciever. I have 4 mount points not sure which to use. I figure it is matter of perfence but I'm jut checking.
Lastly if I have to draw from hoslter. ( pistol) any tips or tricks since I shoot rifle left handed but shoot pistol right? Seems like it may be a little funny/ awarded
Thanks again!
Your definitely in the area of being best off with instruction from a capable instructor (someone who can teach the platform as well as its application and usage and how it concerns and applies to you, not some guy who has experience on how to run it for them-self and only somewhat at that) and experience (actually run it and see what really hangs you up when doing everything right) before moving on. This will help save time and money and help prevent any training scars from being formed.
"How do you guys to the small parts of the rail?"
Have to ask what this question is pertaining to. If its related to lube and protection (hmmm, I think we all know what I really mean) you really don't have to mess around with it for the outside. Lube, oiling, and all that is pretty limited to the working parts under friction with the outside of the rifle not needing it including the receivers and rails.
As for sling set up and transitioning to secondary, train and practice!
Personally I run a VCAS using the QD points on the rail forward of the receiver and at the rear of the receiver. As for transitioning you can drop it center line which will keep access to a sidearm as long as its not in the 12 - 2 o'clock range.
Djstorm100
03-11-12, 22:24
Your definitely in the area of being best off with instruction from a capable instructor (someone who can teach the platform as well as its application and usage and how it concerns and applies to you, not some guy who has experience on how to run it for them-self and only somewhat at that) and experience (actually run it and see what really hangs you up when doing everything right) before moving on. This will help save time and money and help prevent any training scars from being formed.
"How do you guys to the small parts of the rail?"
Have to ask what this question is pertaining to. If its related to lube and protection (hmmm, I think we all know what I really mean) you really don't have to mess around with it for the outside. Lube, oiling, and all that is pretty limited to the working parts under friction with the outside of the rifle not needing it including the receivers and rails.
As for sling set up and transitioning to secondary, train and practice!
Personally I run a VCAS using the QD points on the rail forward of the receiver and at the rear of the receiver. As for transitioning you can drop it center line which will keep access to a sidearm as long as its not in the 12 - 2 o'clock range.
I meant "how do you get to small parts of the rail, barrel." My dad always taught me to oil the barrel and anything you pretty much touch, unless it is plastic. Due to the oil on your hands.
I have QD point right where the receiver and free float rail meet at and have one at the rear of the receiver at the castle nut.
You were referring to the 12-2 o' clock of the side arm correct?
polydeuces
03-11-12, 22:35
Upgrade the software, not the hardware. Do so by taking a class.
That needs to become a sticky. Immediately.
I know I will be using it a lot - hope you don't mind.
brzusa.1911
03-11-12, 22:48
My DD V5 received Magpul ACS, Ergo grips, Troy ambi safety, Troy ambi mag release, Magpul BAD lever, flashlight, sling, Troy Battlesights, Aimpoint PRO.
Add whatever accessories you would like, it is fun, it is your rifle and money. Take classes as well, when you feel like it - at that point I believe you would probably be asking about classes and not about performance and spare parts for your rifle.
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x345/gunphotos17/DSC_0032-1.jpg
Djstorm100
03-11-12, 23:04
My DD V5 received Magpul ACS, Ergo grips, Troy ambi safety, Troy ambi mag release, Magpul BAD lever, flashlight, and sling.
Add whatever accessories you would like, it is fun, it is your rifle and money. Take classes as well, when you feel like it - at that point I believe you would probably be asking about classes and not about performance and spare parts for your rifle.
Theres a few things I can't use because I'm left handed shooter.
I'm looking in to Ambi safety and mag release.
I've already upgrade to the hogue grip as I like something a little thicker when running around. Stationary I prefer something skinner. I've always been a bolt guy as this is my first AR different gun for different purpose.
brzusa.1911
03-11-12, 23:10
Theres a few things I can't use because I'm left handed shooter.
I'm looking in to Ambi safety and mag release.
I've already upgrade to the hogue grip as I like something a little thicker when running around. Stationary I prefer something skinner. I've always been a bolt guy as this is my first AR different gun for different purpose.
I am lefty as well, everything on my rifle makes it lefty friendly. Some here don't like the Magpul BAD lever, as a left hand shooter I love it - in a tactical reload I can just tap my right hand on the lever after inserting a magazine. I drop the magazine with my index finger using the ambi mag release, insert a new magazine with right hand and release the bolt with same hand.
Djstorm100
03-11-12, 23:29
I am lefty as well, everything on my rifle makes it lefty friendly. Some here don't like the Magpul BAD lever, as a left hand shooter I love it - in a tactical reload I can just tap my right hand on the lever after inserting a magazine. I drop the magazine with my index finger using the ambi mag release, insert a new magazine with right hand and release the bolt with same hand.
The mag release I guess I'll have to play with it and see. After I take course I'll know. But the safety is a must for me!
Thanks for the help bud!
I meant "how do you get to small parts of the rail, barrel." My dad always taught me to oil the barrel and anything you pretty much touch, unless it is plastic. Due to the oil on your hands.
I have QD point right where the receiver and free float rail meet at and have one at the rear of the receiver at the castle nut.
You were referring to the 12-2 o' clock of the side arm correct?
The rails are aluminum and anodized hard coat, rust isn't an issue with them. Barrels have a phosphate coating which helps prevent rust but if some crude like dirt or mud gets under the hand guards, its in a corrosive atmosphere (humid or salty mainly), then you may want to take off the hand guards and give it a cleaning and light wipe down with some oil but it really isn't much an issue.
Those are the two I use. Tried a couple other ways and didn't like them as much.
Yeah if your sidearm is holstered around 12-2 (or 10-12 as well) such as appendix carry then bringing the rifle straight down can cause it to be in the way of drawing the pistol. More an issue if your caught with a CC set up since pretty much every rifle set up doesn't have the pistol that far forward.
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