View Full Version : How important is short trigger reset to shooting?
Lucky Strike
03-10-12, 09:30
Was reading a discussion on this on another forum a while back. Basically how much do you think a short reset really matters when you're under stress and trying to put accurate shots downrange quickly.
One guy (this particular dude was an IPSC Master class shooter shooting production with a Glock 17) was saying that it doesn't really matter because your trigger finger isn't going backwards and stopping on a dime in increments of 1/10 of an inch when stress and speed are introduced. So a trigger with a short vs a trigger with a longer reset length wouldn't make much of a difference.
Seemed like an interesting argument, just thought I'd see what the opinions on here seem to think since I view most here as a higher level of trained individuals.
Failure2Stop
03-10-12, 10:44
Depends on what you mean by "long" and "short" really.
However, those with a long reset are more susceptible to shorting the reset under stress.
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(shrug)
I'm no expert, but I just like to have a short reset. A Glock has a very nice reset compared to many other stock guns that I've fired.
From a competition perspective (USPSA), returning the trigger just to reset isn't necessary when shooting at warp drive on a square range at hoser distances. Neither is prepping the trigger. For that matter, I personally don't know anyone who has the ability to return a trigger just to the point of reset when shooting splits in the teens. However, the longer the travel to reset, the more apt one is to encounter trigger freeze. That is why I just despise the long reset on my Kahr.
As the shots become longer, tighter, and more difficult, trigger manipulation reigns supreme. On something like a 25 yard plate rack I put more emphasis on reset and prep, but that tends to erode depending on the elements of time and scoring issues. There's my take from a square range perspective (fwiw, USPSA GM). I'll let someone else address the question from a street perspective.
I believe trigger reset is very important. I train to shoot using a short trigger reset every time I'm putting rounds down range. When the SHTF, I will likely revert to how I was trained. Because I have practiced extensively to operate under stress in this manner, I would expect to perform similarly when I'm confronted with a shoot/don't shoot situation.
I don't shoot in competition, so I wouldn't have any knowledge about that type of training.
I've found some trigger resets to be a deal breaker. Don't like straightening my finger beyond a certain point if I don't have to such as the point it feels natural and is automatic. If the trigger needs to reset to close or past the area my finger "naturally" goes to then I will pass. Not like this has limited my choices all that much and I am left with plenty of good options using this selection criteria.
Depends on what you mean by "long" and "short" really.
However, those with a long reset are more susceptible to shorting the reset under stress.
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For reason not quite clear to me, the gun that I short stroke the most at speed is a 1911. I don't know if it is a function of how strong reset is, or I get a false perception that I don't need to move my finger a whole lot with 1911. I have never short-stroked a Glock, but do it quite often with 1911, although admittedly I'd shot Glock a lot more than 1911 in recent years.
A short reset is nice to have but is less important than a quality trigger pull.
It seems to make a difference for me if the trigger resets directly to the sear or if there is take-up to recover after the trigger reconnects.
I'm more interested in a positive reset that i can feel then a short one... in much the same way that i'm more interested in a crisp trigger than a light one. I really like glock triggers personally. I think the key really is to learn your trigger.
i find it very hard to shoot quickly and accurately without using trigger reset on glocks. releasing the trigger all the way causes me to slap the trigger when going for speed. for slow fire there is no difference either method, but when going for speed the reset allows the pressing finger to stay under tension and that makes a huge difference for me personally.
then you have triggers like the sig dak where you cannot use the reset because it makes the trigger worse.
gtmtnbiker98
03-11-12, 17:35
Way too much emphasis is placed on trigger reset, IMO. Pick a platform, gain proficiency, and train!
EzGoingKev
03-11-12, 18:20
I do not know about long or short but the important thing to me is to have a very positive reset that you can feel.
If you ease to reset on every single shot, it may matter. If you do not, and instead employ an aggressive reset (often termed "slapping" by the ignorant) it is far less of an issue.
Lucky Strike
03-11-12, 18:53
If you ease to reset on every single shot, it may matter. If you do not, and instead employ an aggressive reset (often termed "slapping" by the ignorant) it is far less of an issue.
That was one of the points he used....said when he is going at speed under stress he has no way to differentiate the exact point of reset. I'm not sure if the aggressive reset thing is something Brian Enos teaches but I know he was a big Enos fan.
I think the less experienced one is things like trigger type (DA, Striker-fired or SA) and Bore Axis makes a difference.
At some point res begin to matter less (where I am).
At some other point NONE of that seems to bother those guys and gals. They are a joy to watch and it's painful to follow their paths.
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That was one of the points he used....said when he is going at speed under stress he has no way to differentiate the exact point of reset. I'm not sure if the aggressive reset thing is something Brian Enos teaches but I know he was a big Enos fan.
What I call an "aggressive reset" is definitely the way most of your ip-sic guys shoot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqqhSSiU_j8&feature=youtube_gdata_player
can you explain the aggressive reset some more?
the problem i have is when i release the trigger all the way (essentially relieve all pressing tension in the trigger finger) the next shot requires me to take up the slack and i want to rush the slack portion of the press (the slapping part of my trigger press) and this creates a stutter once i hit the resistance of the part of motion that actually actuates trigger mechanics. this stutter makes the overall process feel different, worse, than if i were to just move to the reset point and keep everything under tension.
what do i need to change?
Heavy Metal
03-11-12, 23:17
Just relax your trigger finger a bit when the shot breaks and let the trigger reset your finger.
that's what i feel like i'm doing when i keep a light tension on the trigger finger and release until reset.
The Dumb Gun Collector
03-11-12, 23:44
Even though I mainly shoot 1911s I am definitely in the aggressive reset group. I probably developed it because I learned to shoot on long reset guns. I have always prefered longer resets on my beside the bed guns (and DA for that matter).
Short answer is short resets are not important to me.
The Dumb Gun Collector
03-11-12, 23:51
There is a whole lot of wisdom in a little bit of video in Rob s' link above.
While a short reset is nice, a crisp positive reset make more of a difference to me. And I can tell when shooting my most recently upgraded m&p. I have an apex FSS trigger but since the RAM for it isn't out yet it causes me to get an occasional false reset...
A nice positive click felt with your finger makes all the difference in the world. Even shooting at speed.
can you explain the aggressive reset some more?
the problem i have is when i release the trigger all the way (essentially relieve all pressing tension in the trigger finger) the next shot requires me to take up the slack and i want to rush the slack portion of the press (the slapping part of my trigger press) and this creates a stutter once i hit the resistance of the part of motion that actually actuates trigger mechanics. this stutter makes the overall process feel different, worse, than if i were to just move to the reset point and keep everything under tension.
what do i need to change?
It sounds to me like you're over-thinking parts, and under-thinking other parts.
To properly utilize the aggressive reset you're going to have three kinds of trigger press and three kinds of sight picture, and they are paired up. Some even have four.
Trigger Press- Trigger press A is the closest to a "slap" and is probably why people that don't know what they are talking about call it that. It is pulling straight through the entire stroke of the trigger, the way you would with a revolver, very quickly. One consistent pull, all the way through. Trigger press B is a little slower, with a very slight hitch in the pull-through as you take out the slack as you align the sights. Pull through the takeup, feel the notch, and pull through the break. Trigger press C is the slowest and is similar to B except that you might get a longer hold after takeup and before the break as you let your sights settle on, or align with, the target.In all cases on recoil you let the finger leave the trigger face, or at the very least come all the way forward.
Sight Picture- Sight picture 1 is a "flash" sight picture. It is NOT "point shooting" but is using the whole rear of the slide as an index or aiming point. Your focus can actually remain on the target. Sight picture 2 is a front sight "flash" where you do similar but with the front sight post. Your focus an be between the target and the front sight so long as you can make out the front sight sufficiently to ensure that it is on the target. Sight picture 3 is a hard front sight focus, aligned in the rear sight, with the top of the sights aligned across the top and either "pumpkin on a post" or slicing the center of the bullseye depending on how you shoot, your preference, and how your sights are zeroed.In no cases are you simply looking at the target and totally ignoring your gun in any way with no reference point whatsoever.
So, trigger press A goes with sight picture 1, trigger press B goes with sight picture 2, and trigger press C goes with sight picture 3. How do you know which to do when? Target size. All that happens when targets are further away is that they appear smaller, so distance is irrelevant. Larger targets get A1, the very smallest targets get C3, and the vast majority of targets get the B2. If you're shooting an el-pres on fullsize steel, everything will get an A1, if you're shooting a target that has 50% of the A-zone covered with hard cover, or if you're forced to go for a head shot, or shooting a plate rack at 25 yards, you'll use C3. In all of these the principals of sight alignment and trigger-control still apply. If you're not pulling the trigger straight to the rear you're still screwed. If your index sight picture includes a pistol that's turned in your hand 5* you're also likely to be screwed. Just because you don't have a hard focus on the sights doesn't mean you can get hits if they aren't aligned, and just because they are aligned doesn't mean you have to be looking at them.
All of this said, you can see that things can become very complex. for a high level ip-sic shooter or a very competent "tactical shooter" this all happens with unconscious competence (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four_stages_of_competence). For a new shooter starting out I think you should still learn the traditional hard front sight focus at all times and ease to reset. Why? Because it works all the time. You're not going to get confused as to where the target is, what it's doing, which trigger press goes with which sight picture, etc. That is too much to process when you're still worried about getting the gun out of the holster, hitting the magwell with a reload, etc. When you have reached a level of unconscious competence with your manipulations and are getting good hits with a consistent hard sight focus and ease-to-reset trigger control you can move on to the aggressive reset and the three-stage trigger-press/sight-picture.
When you first make the transition to the three-stage method you are likely to see a DECREASE in your scores/accuracy. This is because as you think about what you are doing (conscious incompetnce through conscious competence) you will make the wrong choice frequently. You may also struggle with the new trigger stroke(s) and wind up jerking the trigger and imparting movement on the gun. However, as you practice these things you will find it is a case of taking one step back to take ten steps forward.
Finally, there is an agreement you have to enter into with yourself to make this work and that is an understanding of "what is the target?" If I hang an IDPA target in front of you, what is the target? What if I change it to an ip-sic tombstone? What if I make both of those out of steel? Or a plate rack? Or a B-8 bullseye? Or a man with a knife? Or a man with a knife holding said knife to your child's throat? The target is what you need it to be, based on what you are doing and the situation at hand. If you are shooting a USPSA stage where points are more important than time then the target may be the A-zone. Make time a bigger factor and you may find the C-zone is the target. Shooting at a full-size IDPA steel target the target is the entire area allthe way out to the -3 and including the head. If you prefer, think of it as the "acceptable hit zone". To approach the other end of the spectrum with the man with the knife at your child's throat the target, or acceptable hit zone, is the eye socket of that man. Regardless of the size of the target, however, you are picking out a single point, the size of a pin head, on the target, where you want the hits to go. THAT is your true target, all the time, regardless of sight picture and trigger press used, but around that you have your acceptable hit zone, and which combination of trigger press and sight picture you choose is going to be based on that acceptable hit zone.
Heavy Metal
03-12-12, 09:32
that's what i feel like i'm doing when i keep a light tension on the trigger finger and release until reset.
You should be doing this automatically during the recoil stroke. You should not hear a click as it should already be reset before you begin to acquire another sight picture.
often termed "slapping" by the ignorant Man that's harsh. I could make a laundry list of USPSA National Champions that use the term "slapping" and I don't consider them "ignorant".
However, the longer the travel to reset, the more apt one is to encounter trigger freeze. That is why I just despise the long reset on my Kahr.
Can you explain this? I'm not sure what you mean by "trigger freeze".
Man that's harsh. I could make a laundry list of USPSA National Champions that use the term "slapping" and I don't consider them "ignorant".
You are taking it wrong way around, and I think most of them use the term only because nobody has come up with something to replace it that doesn't have a negative connotation.
What I call an "aggressive reset" is definitely the way most of your ip-sic guys shoot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqqhSSiU_j8&feature=youtube_gdata_player
This is an excellent couple of minutes on pistol shooting. Really enjoyed watching it.
Personally, I'm one of the nine out of ten. When shooting at speed, I can't feel the reset and don't look for it.
Just relax your trigger finger a bit when the shot breaks and let the trigger reset your finger.
Thats an awfully slow way to shoot in my eyes. Can you provide some clarification on this technique?
If you want to build speed you're going to have to learn to reset under recoil which results in a pseudo "slap" much like rob_S was saying. Personally, my finger leaves the trigger face under recoil and resets itself on the trigger by prepping the slack out for each shot and then rolling through the break point. The speed at which i do this changes based upon distance but ONLY in regard to how fast i am prepping the trigger. I reset my trigger in the same manner regardless of how i am shooting.
Also, is it realistic to attempt to learn to use different amounts of pressure on the trigger during different parts of the firing cycle?
Thats an awfully slow way to shoot in my eyes. Can you provide some clarification on this technique?
If you want to build speed you're going to have to learn to reset under recoil which results in a pseudo "slap" much like rob_S was saying. Personally, my finger leaves the trigger face under recoil and resets itself on the trigger by prepping the slack out for each shot and then rolling through the break point. The speed at which i do this changes based upon distance but ONLY in regard to how fast i am prepping the trigger. I reset my trigger in the same manner regardless of how i am shooting.
Also, is it realistic to attempt to learn to use different amounts of pressure on the trigger during different parts of the firing cycle?
I'm trying to get my head around a few things as a result of reading this thread.
Do you take your finger off the trigger when running the gun slow and making precision/distance shots? Or only when running the gun fast?
If most of you guys who are more accomplished shooters are using this "aggressive reset" all of the time, or almost all of the time, then what does trigger reset (short vs long) matter? And further, why exactly does a "positive" reset matter if you finger is off the trigger when it resets during recoil, then comes back in contact with the trigger (during recoil) to then take up the slack/prep the trigger? It seems if this is the way one ought to be shooting, that a small amount of take up, a smooth pull and a crisp, fairly light break are the only trigger characteristics that would really matter?
I ask because I was taught to learn the reset, and shoot to reset. To ride the trigger out to reset during recoil and no further. However, it has always worked well on slow, precision shooting, and not so much when I have tried to learn to run the gun faster. Were I to start practicing this "aggressive reset" and take my finger off the trigger completely... well, that would be a bit of a paradigm shift, and seems my concern of length of reset would become moot.
Lucky Strike
03-12-12, 14:48
Cazwell your line of thinking is in line with what mine was and is what prompted me to make this thread. I like the idea of the reset length being eliminated from the list of characteristics of a particular handgun I would need to be able to get good hits quickly.
Being able to shoot with the same mechanics with my shorter reseting guns (PPQ, Apex'd M&P) and my longer ones (P30, CM9) would be sweet.
I'm trying to get my head around a few things as a result of reading this thread.
Do you take your finger off the trigger when running the gun slow and making precision/distance shots? Or only when running the gun fast?
If most of you guys who are more accomplished shooters are using this "aggressive reset" all of the time, or almost all of the time, then what does trigger reset (short vs long) matter? And further, why exactly does a "positive" reset matter if you finger is off the trigger when it resets during recoil, then comes back in contact with the trigger (during recoil) to then take up the slack/prep the trigger? It seems if this is the way one ought to be shooting, that a small amount of take up, a smooth pull and a crisp, fairly light break are the only trigger characteristics that would really matter?
I ask because I was taught to learn the reset, and shoot to reset. To ride the trigger out to reset during recoil and no further. However, it has always worked well on slow, precision shooting, and not so much when I have tried to learn to run the gun faster. Were I to start practicing this "aggressive reset" and take my finger off the trigger completely... well, that would be a bit of a paradigm shift, and seems my concern of length of reset would become moot.
The shorter your reset the faster a trigger can be run....generally.
For "tactical" purposes, ANY system can be learned. There is a reason why LEM, Glock, M&P style trigger systems that allow you to aggressively prep the trigger rule the "tactical" world.
On a 1911 with no pre travel you are essentially shooting a gun that could very well have a solenoid in it. It is either on, or off. This is why 99% of ipsc open guns are 2011's. It is always a shoot scenario. The straight back press and overall short throw also facilitate "slapping" of the trigger, ie coming off of the trigger face under recoil and very quickly breaking the next shot when your sights are where they need to be. These trigger systems are far more forgiving than a hinged, pivoting trigger.
With a long throw trigger system that has pre travel the idea is to learn where your gun actually breaks/resets, the point is the same. I do NOT come all of the way off of the trigger but i most definitely do NOT allow the gun to reset my trigger finger. This leads to trigger freeze as you try to find the EXACT reset point in order to press again.
My sequence of firing in a COMPETITION setting goes like this:
1. Sights on the target.
1.5 slack is being taken out of the trigger as my sights come on line.
2.0 Trigger is pressed through resulting in the shot being fired.
3.0 Under recoil my trigger finger is coming off of the trigger face
4.0 As the sights return my trigger finger makes contact with the trigger face removing what slack/take up may still be present.
5.0 I repeat steps 1-4 as many times as necessary to run the course of fire.
I dont like crisp triggers, i find that they PROMOTE sight disturbance unless all of the over travel has been removed from the system. I keep my competition triggers over 4.5 lbs and do everything i can to run with a completely smooth trigger travel from start to finish.
A discussion like this really does require context. I would never, ever in a billion years run a 1911 as a defensive firearm as to me, it is on or off in its trigger system. A hinged, pivoting trigger with pre travel gives ME more control of when that shot is going to break, especially if it is not a 2 lb trigger.
My ragged edge of control runs about .17 to .18 splits with a Glock.
Give me a 1911 and i can slap that thing and muscle it under control while running .15 to .16 splits. I find my accuracy to be acceptable with the Glock and unacceptable with the 1911 because of how much effort i have to expend to run the gun at that speed. The "easier" or more "forgiving" trigger results in better numbers from a PURE speed aspect but the reality is that the speed is not necessary, especially at the expense of accuracy.
Heavy Metal
03-12-12, 17:54
Thats an awfully slow way to shoot in my eyes. Can you provide some clarification on this technique?
If you want to build speed you're going to have to learn to reset under recoil which results in a pseudo "slap" much like rob_S was saying. Personally, my finger leaves the trigger face under recoil and resets itself on the trigger by prepping the slack out for each shot and then rolling through the break point. The speed at which i do this changes based upon distance but ONLY in regard to how fast i am prepping the trigger. I reset my trigger in the same manner regardless of how i am shooting.
Also, is it realistic to attempt to learn to use different amounts of pressure on the trigger during different parts of the firing cycle?
Reset under recoil is exactly whet I am describing. You don't reset the trigger, you let the return spring reset your finger to the break point by partially relaxing your trigger finger the instant the shot breaks.
The shorter your reset the faster a trigger can be run....generally.
For "tactical" purposes, ANY system can be learned. There is a reason why LEM, Glock, M&P style trigger systems that allow you to aggressively prep the trigger rule the "tactical" world.
On a 1911 with no pre travel you are essentially shooting a gun that could very well have a solenoid in it. It is either on, or off. This is why 99% of ipsc open guns are 2011's. It is always a shoot scenario. The straight back press and overall short throw also facilitate "slapping" of the trigger, ie coming off of the trigger face under recoil and very quickly breaking the next shot when your sights are where they need to be. These trigger systems are far more forgiving than a hinged, pivoting trigger.
With a long throw trigger system that has pre travel the idea is to learn where your gun actually breaks/resets, the point is the same. I do NOT come all of the way off of the trigger but i most definitely do NOT allow the gun to reset my trigger finger. This leads to trigger freeze as you try to find the EXACT reset point in order to press again.
My sequence of firing in a COMPETITION setting goes like this:
1. Sights on the target.
1.5 slack is being taken out of the trigger as my sights come on line.
2.0 Trigger is pressed through resulting in the shot being fired.
3.0 Under recoil my trigger finger is coming off of the trigger face
4.0 As the sights return my trigger finger makes contact with the trigger face removing what slack/take up may still be present.
5.0 I repeat steps 1-4 as many times as necessary to run the course of fire.
I dont like crisp triggers, i find that they PROMOTE sight disturbance unless all of the over travel has been removed from the system. I keep my competition triggers over 4.5 lbs and do everything i can to run with a completely smooth trigger travel from start to finish.
A discussion like this really does require context. I would never, ever in a billion years run a 1911 as a defensive firearm as to me, it is on or off in its trigger system. A hinged, pivoting trigger with pre travel gives ME more control of when that shot is going to break, especially if it is not a 2 lb trigger.
My ragged edge of control runs about .17 to .18 splits with a Glock.
Give me a 1911 and i can slap that thing and muscle it under control while running .15 to .16 splits. I find my accuracy to be acceptable with the Glock and unacceptable with the 1911 because of how much effort i have to expend to run the gun at that speed. The "easier" or more "forgiving" trigger results in better numbers from a PURE speed aspect but the reality is that the speed is not necessary, especially at the expense of accuracy.
That is a seriously interesting post. Some of it over my head but I can relate to some of it (adjusted for .22-.25 splits ;) )
I'm not sure what you mean by "trigger freeze". Trigger freeze is just a term for not returning the trigger past the point of reset. In competition circles it usually happens when the shooter fails to maintain a relaxed and neutral grip leading to tension in the trigger finger (not isolating the trigger finger).
It sounds to me like you're over-thinking parts, and under-thinking other parts.
To properly utilize the aggressive reset you're going to have three kinds of trigger press and three kinds of sight picture, and they are paired up. Some even have four.
Trigger Press- Trigger press A is the closest to a "slap" and is probably why people that don't know what they are talking about call it that. It is pulling straight through the entire stroke of the trigger, the way you would with a revolver, very quickly. One consistent pull, all the way through. Trigger press B is a little slower, with a very slight hitch in the pull-through as you take out the slack as you align the sights. Pull through the takeup, feel the notch, and pull through the break. Trigger press C is the slowest and is similar to B except that you might get a longer hold after takeup and before the break as you let your sights settle on, or align with, the target.In all cases on recoil you let the finger leave the trigger face, or at the very least come all the way forward.
Sight Picture- Sight picture 1 is a "flash" sight picture. It is NOT "point shooting" but is using the whole rear of the slide as an index or aiming point. Your focus can actually remain on the target. Sight picture 2 is a front sight "flash" where you do similar but with the front sight post. Your focus an be between the target and the front sight so long as you can make out the front sight sufficiently to ensure that it is on the target. Sight picture 3 is a hard front sight focus, aligned in the rear sight, with the top of the sights aligned across the top and either "pumpkin on a post" or slicing the center of the bullseye depending on how you shoot, your preference, and how your sights are zeroed.In no cases are you simply looking at the target and totally ignoring your gun in any way with no reference point whatsoever.
So, trigger press A goes with sight picture 1, trigger press B goes with sight picture 2, and trigger press C goes with sight picture 3. How do you know which to do when? Target size. All that happens when targets are further away is that they appear smaller, so distance is irrelevant. Larger targets get A1, the very smallest targets get C3, and the vast majority of targets get the B2. If you're shooting an el-pres on fullsize steel, everything will get an A1, if you're shooting a target that has 50% of the A-zone covered with hard cover, or if you're forced to go for a head shot, or shooting a plate rack at 25 yards, you'll use C3. In all of these the principals of sight alignment and trigger-control still apply. If you're not pulling the trigger straight to the rear you're still screwed. If your index sight picture includes a pistol that's turned in your hand 5* you're also likely to be screwed. Just because you don't have a hard focus on the sights doesn't mean you can get hits if they aren't aligned, and just because they are aligned doesn't mean you have to be looking at them.
All of this said, you can see that things can become very complex. for a high level ip-sic shooter or a very competent "tactical shooter" this all happens with unconscious competence (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four_stages_of_competence). For a new shooter starting out I think you should still learn the traditional hard front sight focus at all times and ease to reset. Why? Because it works all the time. You're not going to get confused as to where the target is, what it's doing, which trigger press goes with which sight picture, etc. That is too much to process when you're still worried about getting the gun out of the holster, hitting the magwell with a reload, etc. When you have reached a level of unconscious competence with your manipulations and are getting good hits with a consistent hard sight focus and ease-to-reset trigger control you can move on to the aggressive reset and the three-stage trigger-press/sight-picture.
When you first make the transition to the three-stage method you are likely to see a DECREASE in your scores/accuracy. This is because as you think about what you are doing (conscious incompetnce through conscious competence) you will make the wrong choice frequently. You may also struggle with the new trigger stroke(s) and wind up jerking the trigger and imparting movement on the gun. However, as you practice these things you will find it is a case of taking one step back to take ten steps forward.
Finally, there is an agreement you have to enter into with yourself to make this work and that is an understanding of "what is the target?" If I hang an IDPA target in front of you, what is the target? What if I change it to an ip-sic tombstone? What if I make both of those out of steel? Or a plate rack? Or a B-8 bullseye? Or a man with a knife? Or a man with a knife holding said knife to your child's throat? The target is what you need it to be, based on what you are doing and the situation at hand. If you are shooting a USPSA stage where points are more important than time then the target may be the A-zone. Make time a bigger factor and you may find the C-zone is the target. Shooting at a full-size IDPA steel target the target is the entire area allthe way out to the -3 and including the head. If you prefer, think of it as the "acceptable hit zone". To approach the other end of the spectrum with the man with the knife at your child's throat the target, or acceptable hit zone, is the eye socket of that man. Regardless of the size of the target, however, you are picking out a single point, the size of a pin head, on the target, where you want the hits to go. THAT is your true target, all the time, regardless of sight picture and trigger press used, but around that you have your acceptable hit zone, and which combination of trigger press and sight picture you choose is going to be based on that acceptable hit zone.
i appreciate this analysis. i have many more things to test now. i believe the problem i was describing may have arisen due to some mixing and matching of what i wanted to demand of accuracy and what i wanted to demand of speed.
Something else relative to this...
Define "reset".
One way to define reset is the shortest distance forward that the trigger must move in order to be able to fire the gun again, that is one thing and where the "ease to reset" shooter will find distance of reset to matter.
Another way to define reset is the overall trigger travel from at rest to fully pressed (or just past ignition, meaning not including overtravel). This is where the "aggressive reset" shooter may find issue until they get used to thing. They may not be able to fully fling their finger off the trigger every single time.
Having not played a lot with a gun like the FNS that is getting some bad press for long reset, I can't say how much it really matters. This whole time in this discussion I've been thinking of Glock vs. 1911.
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