Building an AR...What tools

[suthrncop66]

Picked up stripped lower to put together....what "specialized tools" will I need, would also like to put together a small armorers tool kit...I will need chisels, punches etc. to stake things, correct?? What I am asking is what tools will be necessary for the build and what tools are just good to have working on an ar?

[gunguy98]

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11004/learn/

[mallowpufft]

All you need for the lower is a small punch, small hammer to tap it, flat head screwdriver, and needle nose pliers. Some masking tape helps, too.
However, there are specialized tools that make certain actions easier. Ie, the front takedown detent tool eliminates the use of the pliers & screwdriver..

[Casull]

Please use the https://www.m4carbine.net/nual/misc/nav_search.gif (https://www.m4carbine.net/gtsearch.php?cx=003496919632624929056%3Adhiwgm0hbaa&cof=FORID%3A10&ie=UTF-8&q=Build+AR+Lower+how+to&sa=Search) function and Google for common questions in future, young grasshopper :ph34r:

Brownells or sure is your friend. Youtube has lots of nice instructional videos, too.

[amd5007]

Roll pin punches make life much easier if you're just doing the lower. You'll also need a castle nut wrench and something to stake it with.

If you're building an entire upper: you need a vise block and barrel wrench at the least.

Concerning the front takedown pin detent. I use two standard punches: the largest one I have (I don't know the size, but it is almost exactly the diameter of the takedown pin) and a smaller punch. I insert the larger punch back to front, through the pin holes, while pushing down on the detent with a smaller punch. Then I push the larger punch through, capturing the detent. Then I take the takedown pin and push it straight into the larger punch, thus installing the pin and allowing the detent to trap it. It's easy and saves some cash.

[tpelle]

They make a tool - cheap, too - that is a pin the size of the pivot pin that has a hole drilled through the end. You slip it through from the left side, align the hole with the tunnel for the spring and plunger, push the spring and plunger in with a punch, then rotate the tool to capture the spring and plunger. Then you push the pivot pin in from the other side, which pushes the tool out, and the plunger snaps right into place.

I've heard that a clevis pin from Tractor Supply works in place of the special tool, but I can't say, as I already had the tool, so I never tried.

I always use a small c-clamp to press the trigger guard pin in instead of driving it in with a punch and hammer. I've heard too many sad tales of folks breaking off the opposite side ear by trying to tap the pin in. I tape the fixed side of the c-clamp up so it won't booger up the finish, and use a penny under the swivelling end of the screw to give it a flat surface to push with. It works just like a miniature arbor press.

[TangoSauce]

Check out the ITS Tactical vids too.

[suthrncop66]

thanks everyone, out to buy some punches, I think I have everything else..

[Bob Reed]

would also like to put together a small armorers tool kit.
Hello,

Here's an excellent AR-15/M16 Armorers Kit http://www.specializedarmament.com/products/ARMORER_TOOL_KIT_COLT_ARMORER_COURSE_COMPLETE-17-12.html

[MistWolf]

I have found that a long punch, the longer the better, works best when installing the bolt release pin. Another tool that helps with installing pins on the AR is a magnet. I have found a vise and the receiver vise blocks to be indispensable

[agr1279]

I always use a small c-clamp to press the trigger guard pin in instead of driving it in with a punch and hammer. I've heard too many sad tales of folks breaking off the opposite side ear by trying to tap the pin in. I tape the fixed side of the c-clamp up so it won't booger up the finish, and use a penny under the swivelling end of the screw to give it a flat surface to push with. It works just like a miniature arbor press.

That has to be one of the best ideas I have read on putting a lower together in a while. I will have to remember that one.

Dan

[djmorris]

Call me crazy but if you don't know what tools, etc you need for assembling your own AR from scratch then you probably should not be doing it. This is especially true if it's your first AR.

I'd recommend at least buying an assembled upper because that's going to be the real PITA part for someone who has never done it. You could get your rifle assembled and run into nothing but issues because of incorrect torquing, gas issue(s), among other things.

[nigreen]

As TangoSauce mentioned watch the ITS videos and then read the following link. It is full of supplemental material on the tools used in the ITS videos and where you can purchase them from.

http://http://www.itstactical.com/warcom/firearms/diy-ar-15-build-introduction-parts-and-tools-required/#more-10556

Good Luck!

[mallowpufft]

I found this guide to be exceptionally helpful in assembling my first lower.
The only thing it doesn't talk about is staking your castle nut. There are also photos of every step but 1 or 2 that he had a hard time photographing while doing it but there is a good explanation for those parts. If you can't follow these directions and get the damn thing to work then you should just buy a complete lower.
http://forums.second-amendment.org/index.php?topic=1878.0

[usmcvet]

The clevis pin works awesome with the take down pins. I learned that in an armorers cours taught by Sully. I like the small c clamp idea for the trigger guard.

[MistWolf]

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0012.jpg

[cdmiller]

The clevis pin works awesome with the take down pins. I learned that in an armorers cours taught by Sully. I like the small c clamp idea for the trigger guard.

There is a really cheap option for the front pivot pin if you have an Ace Hardware nearby. They sell a 2" long, 1/4" diameter clevis pin with multiple holes drilled through it about every 1/4" for $1.50. I have used one for quite some time and just had to buy another after giving my old one to a friend. Be advised that part of the process of forming these pins is that they are pinch cut at the end. Try to pick one with the least amount of deformation as possible so that it will still fit the holes in the lower. I still had to take a file to the one I just bought for 15-20 seconds to round the end up so you may want to buy one of the more expensive clevis pins if you do not have files suitable for working metal.

[usmcvet]

Just went to the store today and bought a two pack of adjustible clevis lins size 1/4" x 2" for $3.

http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab160/usmcvet0331/Snapbucket/F62F4D5B-orig.jpg

[usmcvet]

Just went to the store today and bought a two pack of adjustible clevis pins size 1/4" x 2" for $3. This is what Sully taught us to use in class. I love ssimple solutions.

http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab160/usmcvet0331/Snapbucket/F62F4D5B-orig.jpg

[drrufo]

As a suggestion, get a 4-40 tap and run it into the hole for the rear detent pin. If you use a like sized set screw it will save you the headache of chasing the spring down if you need to take the stock off. I cut the spring about in half and it works great, I'e done it on all three( soon to be 4) lowers and both my son's ARs. It doesn't take much to cut the threads, just be careful not to break the tap off in the hole. I use a tap holder that allows me to control the amount of torque.