Battlecomp or BFH

[chamber143]

I am about to build my second 14.5 BCM midlength as back up rifle. I have enough extra to do either the battlecomp attached or get the BFH upgrade. My other middy is standard barrel and a2x and I am not even remotely unhappy with it. Is either upgrade worth the extra money. I shoot the middy very flat anyway and not sure I'd benefit from the battlecomp but I really like the idea behind it. I would like the BFH but doubt it'll see enough rounds to notice the difference. Sorry for the dumb question but want to know which if either is substantially better than what I have now and worth the extra loot.

[Casull]

If the A2X works for you then the BFH is a great option as it provides better longevity; you will be able to put more rounds through it.

The Battlecomp isn't necessarily intended to replace skill, but it does do what it is meant to do. No one will dis the guy with an A2 and if they do, they're an idiot.
I think you likely would find the battlecomp to be something you really, really like especially since you already don't have a problem with muzzle management.

Most people here will probably tell you to just save and get both the BFH and BC. I would say since you're getting the 14.5 you'll want to get the newer Battlecomp that can accept a suppressor (because options are always good)

Of the two options I would weigh it by lifestyle.. am I going to shoot enough to benefit from BFH? am I going to require a Comp?

Personally I'd save for the best of both. I want to have such an expensive upgrade be welded to a barrel that will last a very long time.

To that end, standard barrels have served people very very well.

[MidwestRookie]

Save a little longer and get both, so you don't end up questioning whether either was the right choice..

[RGoose]

How often do you shoot? What role is your primary 14.5" currently serving (since this is a back up to that)? If you aren't shooting a lot then you may not see the benefit of the BFH. BCM standard barrels are of very high quality. That is not to say that the BFH barrels are a waste of money at all.

I suggest saving a little bit more and get both. However, if you just "can't" wait, then go with the standard barrel and A2X, spend the leftover money on ammo and go shoot.

[SteadyUp]

Personally, I'd get the BFH. Even then, the standard BCM barrel would do just fine. I'd just be hesitant of putting a brake/comp on an upper that has to have a permed muzzle device.

What I'd probably do is skip the BC and BFH, and spend the extra money on ammo. But that's me.

[djmorris]

Between the two choices, I'd go with the BFH upper initially then put money away for the Battlecomp. The BFH upper is less than $100 more than the standard so I say why not? I wanted to ensure my BCM was of the highest quality that's why I went with their cold hammer forged upper.

Battlecomp you should expect to pay $150+ .. Get the BFH and put the leftover $50 towards the Battlecomp.. wait a few weeks to save another $100 and Voila! Both of best worlds.

[polymorpheous]

To those advising that the OP get the upper and save for the comp later:

Keep in mind that his upper would come with a permanently installed muzzle device.
It can be removed, ADCO would charge $40 for the removal, plus $30 for the pin and weld of a new device.

Now, what would two welds do to the steel's structure at or near the same point of the muzzle?

OP, personally I would get the standard upper w/ the A2X pinned and spend the difference on magazines or ammo.

[Dsm2nr]

To those advising that the OP get the upper and save for the comp later:

Keep in mind that his upper would come with a permanently installed muzzle device.
It can be removed, ADCO would charge $40 for the removal, plus $30 for the pin and weld of a new device.

Now, what would two welds do to the steel's structure at or near the same point of the muzzle?

OP, personally I would get the standard upper w/ the A2X pinned and spend the difference on magazines or ammo.

Just one weld weakens the metal surrounding it. Generally when something breaks that's welded, it's the metal around it. Not the actual weld (provided it's a good weld). Although when a FH / comp is welded on, it's the FH / comp being welded. Not the barrel.

Do you plan to run more than 10k rounds through it all that quickly? If so, BFH it. If not, it doesn't really matter.

[polymorpheous]

Just one weld weakens the metal surrounding it. Generally when something breaks that's welded, it's the metal around it. Not the actual weld (provided it's a good weld).


I'm a welder by trade.
That being said, I'm not going to pretend I know enough about the properties of 4150 CMV steel.
I've never welded on it.
I know that 4140 needs to be preheated and once welding is done, (maintaining proper interpass temperature), 4140 needs to cool at a certain rate.
Weld blankets are generally used for this. (At least in the shop I work at.)

I only ask because you are applying a lot of heat in a small area twice. (The heat affected zone will likely reach the barrel)
This would concern me as a metalhead. ;)

[Dsm2nr]

I'm a welder by trade.
That being said, I'm not going to pretend I know enough about the properties of 4150 CMV steel.
I've never welded on it.
I know that 4140 needs to be preheated and once welding is done, (maintaining proper interpass temperature), 4140 needs to cool at a certain rate.
Weld blankets are generally used for this. (At least in the shop I work at.)

I only ask because you are applying a lot of heat in a small area twice. (The heat affected zone will likely reach the barrel)
This would concern me as a metalhead. ;)

Well you know more than me then. I'm not a pro welder but have fabricated plenty of car parts. If I were to weld one on, it would be more or less a tack weld. Something you could break off if you were intending to. I would definitely try to keep the heat as low as possible but still maintaining a decent weld. But as I said, you know more than I.

I've heard about soldering them on also. Might be something to look into.

[Canonshooter]

Now, what would two welds do to the steel's structure at or near the same point of the muzzle?

The weld is on the FH, not the barrel. It's really a "surface weld" on a thick part of the FH that keeps the pin from being easily removed. I doubt enough heat from the spot weld is conducted to the barrel to have any adverse effect.

To the OP, I'd vote to spend the extra $$ else where (ammo, assessories, etc.).

[chamber143]

To all thx for the advice, went ahead and did the BFH but passed on the BC, bought close to 700 rounds of m855. I shoot the a2x really well and low recoil with an h2 buffer so it's a mout point.

[polymorpheous]

The weld is on the FH, not the barrel. It's really a "surface weld" on a thick part of the FH that keeps the pin from being easily removed. I doubt enough heat from the spot weld is conducted to the barrel to have any adverse effect.

To the OP, I'd vote to spend the extra $$ else where (ammo, assessories, etc.).

I suppose it depends on the process.
Do you know if it is TIG or wire feed?
Shielding gas plays a roll in "heat" as well.
75%-25% (argon-CO2) is not as hot say as 95%-5% (argon-oxygen).
I would be interested in learning more about pinning of muzzle devices.

OP, good deal.
A new upper and ammo!

[dustburn]

I think I would edge for the BC, but in all honesty, a good stance and a good grip will do more for you. For me, there is a cool factor for the battle comp, but is that worth the extra cost for you?

Edit: Also I think I need to add, a lot of the modern add-ons out there are for those who can squeeze that bit of added benefit out of them, I know I don't have the skills to do this yet. But you also need to balance progress and cannot ignore this either. It is easy to get stuck in the past and its easy just to get something because it is the current "hot shit"

[robm]

I suppose it depends on the process.
Do you know if it is TIG or wire feed?
Shielding gas plays a roll in "heat" as well.
75%-25% (argon-CO2) is not as hot say as 95%-5% (argon-oxygen).
I would be interested in learning more about pinning of muzzle devices.

OP, good deal.
A new upper and ammo!

Typically just a small tack with a wire feed to hold a small pin, fairly simple stuff especially if you weld for a living. I'd just do low wire speed with a quick tack. That way you dont have to grind much and you'll get a solid tack. My first choice would be tig. Let it air cool slowly. Yes it has more heat transfer but not much would make it into the barrel.

[RKB Armory]

You will definitely notice the effect of the BattleComp.

My question for you is, "Will you notice the effect of the hammer forged barrel?" For me, the answer is, "No." Especially when you consider the quality of Bravo Company's standard barrel. Have you read about, "Filthy Fourteen?"