View Full Version : which 3 knives?
inthebush50
03-21-12, 12:47
I feel you need atleast 3 knives in a bush/survival/outdoor scenario. My choices, my ka-bar phat bob do not know why but i love this folder. The Mora of course why? Cheap tough as nails sharp as hell outta the box. Ka-Bar Kukri for the heavy work! Just curious of others choices.
for a set camp or short hike and camp, I agree with three blades but not sure the "heavy" needs to be a knife. I use a 14" Fiskars axe in the pack for that. a Fallkniven A1 on the belt as my "do all" medium but an ESEE -4 or -6 would be a good choice as well. I also usually have a multitool with a small wood saw on it.
for backpacking I see the logic of using a two knife system to keep weight down. I use a 7.5" Scrapyard and the aforementioned Mora in this case.
for day hiking I'm happy with only the Fallkniven A1.
now, regardless of whatever other blades I choose, I also keep a couple Exacto blades and a handle in my medkit.
inthebush50
03-22-12, 06:14
I bought a husky folding razor for work not long ago, came with a 10 pack small package of quick access razors. With the exacto knives these little razors will do a great job on small game and other smaller delicate tasks
I would go for my Falliknevn A1 and I choose the slightly longer Fiskers/Gerber (17") axe along with my EDC Spyderco Delica 3" smooth blade. I believe these would cover most anything, but a compact folding saw couldn't hurt.
A quality folder (take your pick), a KaBar BK2 and a KaBar Kukri would be a very effective set up both in cost and performance.
Large kukri/machete to clear brush, mora knife, and cold steel bushman folder.
I generally get along with two: an old Spec Plus bolo and a Leatherman Wave. I do see some value in a mid size knife in addition, but I don't think it's mandatory.
K.L. Davis
04-21-12, 19:05
1. Usually a short blade machete or "camp knife" - sometimes a boy's axe.
2. Some sort of ~4" blade knife like a ESEE.
3. Usually a SAK OHT - sometimes a multitool, I like the SOG and Gerber.
ETA 14 Sep: Minor update on page 3
Muddyboots
04-21-12, 19:49
If I could only have ONE knife it would be a solidly built spear point, flat grind fixed blade no thicker than 3/16ths and 4"-5" range that fit my hand well.
A very common three knife combo is the OHT-SAK*, A 3"-4" folder and something like I described above. I don't feel naked with any one of them and all three is a toolkit. That said, I'm a fan of big knives in the 9"-10' blade range. My all time favorite is the Fehrman knives 10" Hood Hunter. I also like the Hoodlum by Buck but I should note that it is a lighter weight chopper than most people are comfortable with. I have a whole bunch of knives that I've used over the years and generally find that people who actually CARRY and USE knives have different opinions than people who car camp or go hunting once a year. It's like most gear, the more you use it, the more you know what you really need. There is also a lot of personal preference based on body shape, area of use/climate, skill level and brand loyalty. Get something YOU like and does what you want it to do. You can get solid high performance tools cheap (Mora & Green River for example) or you can get high end, beautifully done customs for as much as you can stand to pay. Get what YOU like.
I do want to point out that, as is true with a lot of modern gear, modern knives tend to be a lot heavier than their centuries old counterparts. The carried and used tools of people who lived a lot closer to the land than we do tend to be thinner in blade thickness. You might think that with the more variable steels of, say, the 16C we would need thicker stock to make up for the "deficiency." Well, it isn't the case! I have seen literally hundreds of EDC knives from Europe and the Americas dating back as early as the 6th C. There are NO 5/16" blades that were common. They used axes instead for that kind of job. We don't have some secret technique of modern bushcraft that requires us to have sharpened pry-bar knives. Many of us are practically clue less as to WHY to use a knife let alone HOW. If we think that our fore fathers who lived with a knife on their belt were stupid or ignorant about what they needed, you're kidding yourself. That said, I'm sure a the old smiths would have LOVED something as magical as 1095! They probably would have liked Micarta too.
I teach hiking, climbing and survival. I make about half my living doing it.
Muddyboots
* OHT-SAK= One-Handed Trekker Swiss Army Knife.
One of the three should be something along the lines of a Victorinox "Huntsman." The saw works remarkably well, and the scissors come in handy for innumerable tasks.
Blankwaffe
05-10-12, 18:10
1. Usually a short blade machete or "camp knife" - sometimes a boy's axe.
2. Some sort of ~4" blade knife like a ESEE.
3. Usually a SAK OHT - sometimes a multitool, I like the SOG and Gerber.
This is my preference as well.
I spend alot of time hunting/camping here year round,and a couple weeks a year hunting elk out west in remote locations.
Typically I carry a Condor Golok on my back pack or belt depending on situation,which serves to do light axe work,as well as a general purpose camp knife,large game field cleaning/butchering needs etc..
I have several folders that I have a preference for and carry which ever tickles my fancy,maybe two.
My designated belt knife is one of the older Cold Steel Carbon V Recon Tanto's.Thing has shown to be as tough and durable as a rail spike,so I rely on it.
I wear a Gerber multi tool 24/7,so Ive always got one on or with me.
I have seen no need for a hand saw as I usually only burn what wood I gather from ground clutter.Long small to medium limbs/fallen tree's I wedge between two tree's that are close together and break it up using leverage.Large pieces of wood/logs I burn in half or work it thru the fire little at a time.So I don't do any real wood work beyond clearing brush from the camp site.
As for a pure last resort only one tool in a survival scenario,I'd rather have the Golok.Fits the bill for axe duty and knife needs.Fantastic all around tool to say the least.
Muddyboots
05-10-12, 19:01
when you start looking at things like trapping, you will start to like the small saw that is on many SAKs. Fig-4 and the Promentory Peg dead falls are much quicker to make with the saw as are several Twitch-up triggers.
Muddyboots
mallowpufft
05-10-12, 19:13
Large kukri/machete to clear brush, mora knife, and cold steel bushman folder.
Glad to see I'm not the only fan of the CS Pocket Bushman. I've batoned through 3" thick stuff with it and it suffers no ill effects other than getting harder to close. Anytime I go somewhere it is stashed somewhere in my bag or on my person.
I'm a fan of the ubiquitous Mora. Super cheap and useful. I keep that and an Arkan-Saw in my car at all times.
I did just order an ESEE Izula to try for EDC. Seems like a nice, small blade in a relatively compact package for a fixed blade.
I usually keep a multi tool in my bag as well. Either a gerber or a leatherman skeletool. But those Multitasker tools look pretty bad ass.
Add a camp axe or the right thick machete and I think I'd be good to go.
It's best to blame my misspelled words on autocorrect.
Blankwaffe
05-10-12, 20:08
when you start looking at things like trapping, you will start to like the small saw that is on many SAKs. Fig-4 and the Promentory Peg dead falls are much quicker to make with the saw as are several Twitch-up triggers.
Muddyboots
Yeap small blade type saws make things easier.My Gerber multi-tool has a similar saw blade,I also have a cable saw.
That said I can pretty much cut/carve just about anything I need without a saw most of the time.
My reference was thoughts on typical camp or bow saw applications more than pure survival sustainment.
1. Usually a short blade machete or "camp knife" - sometimes a boy's axe.
2. Some sort of ~4" blade knife like a ESEE.
3. Usually a SAK OHT - sometimes a multitool, I like the SOG and Gerber.
This, EXACTLY.
My 3 are:
1. Leatherman charge.
2. Doug Ritter MK3 (http://www.dougritter.com/dr_rsk_mk3.htm) 4.5 fixed blade (s30v). Recently acquired a Swamp Rat Ratmandu, but this is a MUCH thicker blade and doesn't handle dressing, slicing, and ordinary camp tasks as well as the Ritter. The MK3 is a phenomenal all-purpose blade.
3. ESEE Junglas (takes the place of an axe/machete).
* Note: when I go camping or hunting on overnight trips, I ordinarily bring a light folding Silky Saw (the Top Gun model (http://www.amazon.com/Silky-Folding-Landscaping-TOPGUN-133-24/dp/B0014C6PLG)) rather than the Junglas. It's less than half the weight, and quicker to produce firewood. In a true survival situation, if I could I'd grab the Junglas as it would handle a wider range of tasks than the saw.
When I can only have one knife:
* Swamp Rat Ratmandu. As they are not currently producing the Ratmandu, consider the new Rodent 4 (http://www.swampratknifeworks.com/store/page2.html) as a replacement. It might be better anyway as it's nearly an inch shorter, and lighter.
My ESEE 4, my Leatherman would be my first two choices. A pocket folder would be my 3rd choice.
1.randall #15. some scum medic stole it when med-vacd to Japan.
2.gollock had a machinist cut serations in the top to saw with.
3.sak w/saw blade.
been working for 40 yrs will probably work for 40 more.
1. Cold Steel Kukri Machete (the good one not the $19 version)
2. DeLeon Bowie Custom
3. Leatherman Wave
What dive/ water-focused knife would you guys substitute?
I always carry 4 knives with me for short trips:
1 . H&K Entourage Automatic Tanto Knife
2. Boker Automatic Kalashnikov Knife Tactical Dagger
3. SOG Seal Pup
4. Gerber Bear Grylls Ultimate Fixed Blade Survival Knife
And if on the longer stays, I add 1 more (5 total)
5. SOG Seal Team Elite 7"
I really want to buy soon another one to add:
SOGfari Machete 13"
just my 2cents
In no particular order--
1. My Ontario RAT 3.
2. My Spyderco Para 2.
3. My Leatherman Juice KF4.
i pocket carry a 3" kershaw folder daily. in my 72hr bag i carry everywhere is a cold steel SRK and a gerber multi tool. those are the 3 i take everywhere with me.
i used to carry a simple SAK and a larger crkt m21 but have simplified to the kershaw with the others in my bag for office work reasons.
bsmith_shoot
05-22-12, 19:51
1. My 17'' Fiskars axe.
2. My Ontario Bolo
3. My Esee Izula
What dive/ water-focused knife would you guys substitute?
Anyone?
Randall Model 16 "Diver's Knife" maybe?
.
mallowpufft
05-23-12, 14:11
I've got a couple of older Wenokas thar have been pretty durable but I don't know how they'd fare in a survival situation.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I847 using Tapatalk 2
On my person:
Benchmade RSK Mk 1 Folder or similar quality folder.
Prefer the S30V over the 154CM.
On my belt or gear:
EESE 3
On my pack:
Gransfor Bruks Small Forest Ax
An ax is an ax, a big knife is still just a knife.
Cheers
Vince
I carry
Spyderco Endura
Gerber Diesel Multi tool
I'm still looking for the perfect fixed. I want a 6" to 8" blade, nice and wide with a convex gring. I think a Swamp Rat Rodent 6 is about perfect. I don't do a lot of splitting big wood with knives. I would use a saw or ax(I have a gerber fiskar ax that rocks) to fell bigger standing dead trees. This all changes depending on location, season, and distance.
Pure bail out is
Rodent 6 or Esee 6
Esee Junglus or Rodent 9
Sawvivor or medium ax
1. Fiskars Axe 23.5"
2. Randall 14
3. Leatherman Wave
I like a nice folder that takes a good edge. Like a RAT-1, or a kershaw blur
I also wear my leatherman wave,
And my RTAK-2
Also like my CRKT Ultima...
On my person:
Benchmade RSK Mk 1 Folder or similar quality folder.
Prefer the S30V over the 154CM.
On my belt or gear:
EESE 3
Who has the best prices on the EESE 3? The more I see of that knife the more I want want.
Who has the best prices on the EESE 3? The more I see of that knife the more I want want.
You can find them on eBay for $69
JackFanToM
07-14-12, 20:21
CRKT M-16 folder = EDC
Leatherman MUT = attached to my chest piece
Ontario RD-6 = belt attached heavy duty chopper
You can find them on eBay for $69
Seen on Amazon about that price, but not sure they are from legit suppliers.
Try this guy. Cumberland knife works
150795838724 is the eBay item number. He has 99.5% positive F/B
I'd trust him. I am gonna order an
ESEE 4 from him soon
CRKT M-16 folder = EDC
Leatherman MUT = attached to my chest piece
Ontario RD-6 = belt attached heavy duty chopper
I like my big ol
CRKT M16 but I don't really like it only sharpened on one side. What's that
About?
I like my big ol
CRKT M16 but I don't really like it only sharpened on one side. What's that
About?
Chisel blade you mean?
Yeah, i guess. The bevel is only on one side.
I'm scared to dull mine cause idk if I can sharpen it or not
Yeah, i guess. The bevel is only on one side.
I'm scared to dull mine cause idk if I can sharpen it or not
Would be worthless if it couldn't be sharpened. Chisel blades, like all designs, have their pros/cons and some love them. I'm sure other true blade/knife experts here can further comment best practice for sharpening.
I'm no expert, just learning really. But I did pickup a few recommended items:
Kabar Becker BK2
Kabar Kukri
Cold Steel Special Forces Shovel
Leatherman Wave
I have about 6 Kershaw folders, but I'm not sure which one I would carry into the woods, either my Blur or Speedbump because of Sandvik steel. Also, with weight being an issue, I'm not sure which of the above I'd leave behind, might be too much to carry all of them.
I enjoy reading responses on this.
Red Rezin
SAK Farmer
Fallkniven F1
Condor Woodsman Axe
Tough choices. Thread says three knives, not two and a axe or two and a machete...or am I just difficult? And a leatherman is a tool that happens to have a blade, different in my mind than a swiss army that is a knife that happens to have tools... Just mho.
One of them will always be a Fallkniven. One has to have one to understand. Simply amazing works of art.
First knife- fallkniven volcano (fallkniven s1 as alternate)
Second- buck folding skinner with bone saw + gut hook
Third- good parang
Plumber237
07-15-13, 17:09
ESEE Izula
ESEE 4
Ontario SP8, if machetes are allowed...otherwise Ontario Kukri "knife" ;)
im slightly off topic, but I would like to add that I recently added a Bahco Laplander to my camping gear and I am happy I did. money well spent and it doesn't add any noticeable bulk to my pack.
SavageBrew84
07-20-13, 20:04
What dive/ water-focused knife would you guys substitute?
Anything in spyderco's H1 line for diving or saltwater work. I've put mine through their paces working in the Gulf of Mexico with no problems so far; it's definitely the go to knife of the commercial diving industry these days, not to mention their lifetime warranty if you ever do have a problem. Also, the have a couple of fixed blade versions to choose from as well.
Esee Izula
Rat 7
Rat model 1 (EDC knife)
1- ZT 0350
2- Esee 5 (Becker BK2 alternative)
3- Wetterlings small hunting axe
A good folder and a small axe would cover all my needs....and have for years.
I carry a high quality steel folder (Benchmade). I have one in the truck, one in my hunting bag, and one on my person at all times. So I guess that qualifies as three knives right... :)
But seriously as a knife guy, I would say a Hatchet, a high end sturdy locking folder (Benchmade only for me), and a multitool.
I am looking to find a nice old school style fixed blade but I don't consider it a necessity.
FYI my daily carry is a Mini Griptilian. I've punished the hell out of it and it keeps on trucking.
A bit late to this thread, but here is my view, and a bit different than some.
From a weight saving point of view, I think 3 different blades is a bit too much. Ideally, you should choose one blade that you can perform:
-chopping with
-fine work With
-skinning
If I am bringing something else, it will be a folding saw/compact saw of some kind.
A bit late to this thread, but here is my view, and a bit different than some.
From a weight saving point of view, I think 3 different blades is a bit too much. Ideally, you should choose one blade that you can perform:
-chopping with
-fine work With
-skinning
If I am bringing something else, it will be a folding saw/compact saw of some kind.
I agree but I think it would be almost impossible to find one knife that does all three things even reasonably well. three knives is not needed but is comfortable. two could do it though...
my choices are based on performance and weight. my trio is all Nordic - a Swedish Fallkniven A1 for general use/trail tending and a Mora Companion for camp chores (the carbon one, not stainless steel). and a Finnish 14" Fiskars hatchet.
some people like saws but I found that they actually take more work on 2"-3" pieces of wood that can be cut with one or two chops. for quietly trimming branches around blinds or for precision cuts, I like the 10" Fiskars 925 Power Tooth Sliding saw that cuts on the pull as well as the push stroke.
this has handled up to 6" branches when pruning trees around the house and I don't see a need to cut bigger than this away from the home...
my choices are based on performance and weight. my trio is all Nordic - a Swedish Fallkniven A1 for general use/trail tending and a Mora Companion for camp chores (the carbon one, not stainless steel). and a Finnish 14" Fiskars hatchet.
Those are expensive and beautiful tools! I am a bit envious, but one day, right now that's not my priority. Good for you though for having good taste in your gear!
I agree but I think it would be almost impossible to find one knife that does all three things even reasonably well. three knives is not needed but is comfortable. two could do it though...
my choices are based on performance and weight. my trio is all Nordic - a Swedish Fallkniven A1 for general use/trail tending and a Mora Companion for camp chores (the carbon one, not stainless steel). and a Finnish 14" Fiskars hatchet.
some people like saws but I found that they actually take more work on 2"-3" pieces of wood that can be cut with one or two chops. for quietly trimming branches around blinds or for precision cuts, I like the 10" Fiskars 925 Power Tooth Sliding saw that cuts on the pull as well as the push stroke.
this has handled up to 6" branches when pruning trees around the house and I don't see a need to cut bigger than this away from the home...
Which of the tasks can you not perform with the A1? Which task makes you choose a hatchet over a saw?
I use a Chris Reeve Yarborough knife, and I find it does all tasks reasonably well. In addition I carry a saw in my pack. An axe or hatchet is good in the vehicle, but I prefer a saw when dismounted.
Which of the tasks can you not perform with the A1? Which task makes you choose a hatchet over a saw?
I use a Chris Reeve Yarborough knife, and I find it does all tasks reasonably well. In addition I carry a saw in my pack. An axe or hatchet is good in the vehicle, but I prefer a saw when dismounted.
Hey Arctic, I can do almost anything with the A1 but smaller, finer tasks are clumsy because of the weight, depth, and width of the blade. because of the way I use it, it stays not as sharp overall as the smaller knife and the tip is particularly hard to get scalpel sharp. It's a convex grind and tough as hell but I tend to not sharpen it in the field.
I have the Mora so that is what I use for my small knife but I would be happy with something even smaller like an ESEE Izula. It's a Scandi grind and stays razor sharp with just a few passes of my Smith Pocket Pal sharpener. I use it for fine work that requires a very sharp edge and point and for eating and food prep as the longer knife makes it hard to cut on any sort of dish with a lip around it, like all of my camping gear has. It's very light and with the sheath and sharpener, it takes up almost no room in my pack...
If I could only take one knife, however, it would be the Fallkniven A1. it's tough as hell and does all things pretty darn well and many things a smaller knife can't.
for processing wood, I'm only talking about a 14" Fiskars hatchet. it's very light but works well because with the hollow composite shaft, all the weight is in the head. a saw is fine but I found there is a certain point where the number of strokes to use it compared to a hatchet are more tiring. for me, that size comes out to a wood size of about 3". I'd rather take 1 or 2 chops than saw 8-10 strokes. anything much bigger than this though and the saw starts to make sense...
1: EDC Esee izzula with paracord wrap, or a ZT 360.
2: Outdoors, hunting and working around the lease Esee 4.
3: Serious use cutting brush chopping and Esee Junglas.
I have beat the crap out of the ESEE knives and love them the hold a edge really. I have been looking at the Brother of Bushcraft, I like the Scandinavia grind.
theblackknight
08-21-13, 00:21
I'm another Izula-head. Carry it as my main cutting stuff/"extra magazine" knife in darkstar's shealth
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/21/esuzazah.jpg
I'd prob just buy the 4 and idk what else. I'm knife stupid!
K.L. Davis
09-15-13, 00:55
This has been a great thread... it is interesting to see what different people think, as well as see the knives that seem to be more common.
I wanted to check on the thread as I am going through boxes of knives and see that there are not that many that I go to all of the time - I have been carrying and using an axe more an more lately, and see a lot of people list an axe (which is fine, they are sort of a knife really).
Anyway, here is what I find I have with me more often than not...
1. A SAK OHT or a Condor Elegan that I have added G10 handles to.
2. A DPx HEST or a DPx HEFT
3. An OTK Gen2 SP50 or a modified OKC 12" Machete
I know that is six knives, but I almost always have one from 1 and 2 on me all the time... and one from 3 in the vehicle, on a pack, or nearby.
VooDoo6Actual
09-15-13, 13:01
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e225/teehee321/BreedenWSKcopy_zps096238dc.png (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/teehee321/media/BreedenWSKcopy_zps096238dc.png.html)
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e225/teehee321/67xp_zps996d7e51.jpg (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/teehee321/media/67xp_zps996d7e51.jpg.html)
I can do it easily w/ 2 knives & a Hawk (you could make the case that is 3). My second knife & hawk are not pictured. Weight being the ultimate ombudsman when your in the bush for real. Utilitarian / multipurpose / functionality in synergy w/ weight is what your after for continued sustainment. Pic above is only for comparison of modified original Becker WSK. I find the that I prefer the sawteeth located more in center of sweet spot & prefer reciprocating self cleaning teeth over other various designs of saw teeth. The top pic is my own knife w/ input w/ some design mods I prefer. It is based on a Breeden WSK after countless hours in the bush using & teaching this stuff. It is 3/16", has lanyard holes (retention to KIT & spearing attachment point) in Yawara / Kashira / Punjo / butt & I prefer Micarta over G10.
*Note: The symmetrical divot in center of handle in pic below is pocket for Bow Drill which I use as secondary. I prefer Nano Striker as primary.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e225/teehee321/BreedenHandle_zps71e45a0e.jpg (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/teehee321/media/BreedenHandle_zps71e45a0e.jpg.html)
The top pic is my personal after heat treat of D2 Tool steel.
Good luck on your quests.
VooDoo6Actual
09-23-13, 16:45
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e225/teehee321/BreedenHarrisWSK_zpsedd65515.jpg (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/teehee321/media/BreedenHarrisWSK_zpsedd65515.jpg.html)
1. Tracker Dan Bloodshark
2. ESEE 5
3. Knives of Alaska light Hunter
1. Tracker Dan Bloodshark
2. ESEE 5
3. Knives of Alaska light Hunter
Good luck finding a Bloodshark. As I understand it, Tracker Dan is back on active duty.
Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e225/teehee321/BreedenWSKcopy_zps096238dc.png (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/teehee321/media/BreedenWSKcopy_zps096238dc.png.html)
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e225/teehee321/67xp_zps996d7e51.jpg (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/teehee321/media/67xp_zps996d7e51.jpg.html)
I can do it easily w/ 2 knives & a Hawk (you could make the case that is 3). My second knife & hawk are not pictured. Weight being the ultimate ombudsman when your in the bush for real. Utilitarian / multipurpose / functionality in synergy w/ weight is what your after for continued sustainment. Pic above is only for comparison of modified original Becker WSK. I find the that I prefer the sawteeth located more in center of sweet spot & prefer reciprocating self cleaning teeth over other various designs of saw teeth. The top pic is my own knife w/ input w/ some design mods I prefer. It is based on a Breeden WSK after countless hours in the bush using & teaching this stuff. It is 3/16", has lanyard holes (retention to KIT & spearing attachment point) in Yawara / Kashira / Punjo / butt & I prefer Micarta over G10.
*Note: The symmetrical divot in center of handle in pic below is pocket for Bow Drill which I use as secondary. I prefer Nano Striker as primary.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e225/teehee321/BreedenHandle_zps71e45a0e.jpg (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/teehee321/media/BreedenHandle_zps71e45a0e.jpg.html)
The top pic is my personal after heat treat of D2 Tool steel.
Good luck on your quests.
I have been field testing designs, using and buying Breeden's knives for a while now. His kit is top shelf. Excellent version of the WSK.
VooDoo6Actual
10-03-13, 13:31
I have been field testing designs, using and buying Breeden's knives for a while now. His kit is top shelf. Excellent version of the WSK.
Indeed.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e225/teehee321/BreedenWSK3_zps70332fd2.jpg (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/teehee321/media/BreedenWSK3_zps70332fd2.jpg.html)
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e225/teehee321/BreedenWSKcopy_zps5b3d94d6.jpg (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/teehee321/media/BreedenWSKcopy_zps5b3d94d6.jpg.html)
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e225/teehee321/BreedenHarrisWSK_zpsedd65515.jpg (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/teehee321/media/BreedenHarrisWSK_zpsedd65515.jpg.html)
Victorinox Farmer
Mora Companion Carbon
Condor 18" El Salvador Machete
I feel you need atleast 3 knives in a bush/survival/outdoor scenario.
I might have been the goober that coined the phrase "Survival Blade Trifecta". I agree, three blades are needed:
A) Chopper
B) General Purpose
C) Detail
My three blades are:
A) Busse Combat NMFSH
B) Scrap Yard 411
C) Swamp Rat Warden
brushy bill
01-18-14, 10:41
Lot of good choices listed here, but I've been pretty pleased with ESEE.
Kabar companion bk2
Esee izula ii
Crkt m21
Ontario sawback machete
Those are my 4 go-to
I'd rather pick two:
TOPS Tahoma Field Knife
Leatherman M.U.T.
FWIW.
Not my pictures but they are the models I own and use.
1. ESEE Izula 2. My everyday fishing tool.
2. Mora Bushcraft Black. Camp food and wood processing. (A monkey and a rock can keep a razor edge on this thing)
3. Ka-Bar BK-9. Chops and batons. Fire tool.
I recently got back into knives. I carried Smith and Wesson and Boker autos for a while. At work I carry a Greber folder in each pocket and a Tops fixed blade tucked in behind my duty belt. I now have much love for Battlehorse (formerly Blind Horse) Knives. I bought three of them and I am planning on ordering two more. They are usually made of o1 steel and all have a full tang. Some have Scandi grinds and some have flat grinds. They are all hand made and scream quality. I had them make me a kydex sheath for the knife in the middle and this one will replace the Tops knife I carry at work.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3781/12553936674_33c88761d6_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/101418915@N07/12553936674/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/101418915@N07/12553936674/) by corycop25 (http://www.flickr.com/people/101418915@N07/), on Flickr
I recently got back into knives. I carried Smith and Wesson and Boker autos for a while. At work I carry a Greber folder in each pocket and a Tops fixed blade tucked in behind my duty belt. I now have much love for Battlehorse (formerly Blind Horse) Knives. I bought three of them and I am planning on ordering two more. They are usually made of o1 steel and all have a full tang. Some have Scandi grinds and some have flat grinds. They are all hand made and scream quality. I had them make me a kydex sheath for the knife in the middle and this one will replace the Tops knife I carry at work.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3781/12553936674_33c88761d6_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/101418915@N07/12553936674/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/101418915@N07/12553936674/) by corycop25 (http://www.flickr.com/people/101418915@N07/), on Flickr
by scandi grind do they mean what some others call a sabre grind?..
by scandi grind do they mean what some others call a sabre grind?..
I am not sure. I am not too versed on this subject. I know that the left and middle knives are Scandinavian grind.
I am not sure. I am not too versed on this subject. I know that the left and middle knives are Scandinavian grind.
ok, I did some research as I was curious about the pics which you described as scandi but appeared more of a saber (sabre?) grind.
as near as I can tell the scandi grind carries the full width of the blade more than 2/3 of the way down to the start of the primary bevel and uses a single V bevel to form the edge, while the sabre uses a higher primary bevel and a secondary bevel at the edge.
here's a diagram showing the two but the sabre is described as "high flat" --
23645
pics work better than diagrams so:
Mora with scandi
http://www.euro-knife.com/sub/euro-noze.sk/images/shop-active-images/noz-mora-11863-companion-mg-carbon....jpg
sabre grind
http://sharpedgereviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/IMG_0222.jpg
the obvious difference is the single bevel vs the double bevel, and the height of the primary grind. just a guess, but it appears the scandi grind is designed to provide strength to a thinner blade while the sabre helps reduce weight from thicker stock while keeping blade strength. based on this (and the source of my question) it appears your knives are actually sabre ground.
and of course this is all different than the "full flat" grind found on knives like the ESEE 6 -- http://www.eseeknives.com/esee-6.htm
Great info!
Edit to add, I looked up the information on my knives and chose the wrong model of knife. So I guess I will have to add that Battle Horse uses three types of grinds, Scandi, flat and "high flat" or Sabre. The "little Jack" (knife on right in my pic) is a flat grind. The Other two are high flat or sabre grinds. The confusion came when I looked up their bushcraft knife. They have two different grind options for the one model knife.
You can see what I mean here....
http://www.chestnutridgeknifeshop.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=71&osCsid=705775283b37b312edfed3e878aa929e
Voodoo_Man
02-17-14, 13:38
Old picture, still have these blades.
http://i.imgur.com/FVRWbYQ.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e225/teehee321/BreedenHarrisWSK_zpsedd65515.jpg (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/teehee321/media/BreedenHarrisWSK_zpsedd65515.jpg.html)
Really interesting design that. Looks likes there's very little it can't do. No one would call it pretty that's for sure, but stuff with real utility is often not real pretty to look at. That little lip bump on the blade looks odd visually speaking to me. Does it have a tendency to catch on something your cutting or anything like that?
Great info!
Edit to add, I looked up the information on my knives and chose the wrong model of knife. So I guess I will have to add that Battle Horse uses three types of grinds, Scandi, flat and "high flat" or Sabre. The "little Jack" (knife on right in my pic) is a flat grind. The Other two are high flat or sabre grinds. The confusion came when I looked up their bushcraft knife. They have two different grind options for the one model knife.
You can see what I mean here....
http://www.chestnutridgeknifeshop.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=71&osCsid=705775283b37b312edfed3e878aa929e
sorry, wasn't trying to criticize you or the knife, I just got curious because scandi grind seems to be the new pink and a lot of what I see described as scandi is not really traditional.
one of the interesting things about scandi grind is because of the tendency of knives to increase their edge angle the more they are sharpened and the width increases, a properly sharpened scandi will always maintain the same edge angle. that's if you do it the right way by grinding the entire bevel and not just the edge.
this is hard to do though, and most people just put a secondary bevel on, to bring back the edge. the problem in doing this with a scandi grind though, is the bevel quickly gets thicker the more you sharpen and the edge moves up the blade. scandi is better for thin bladed knives. sabre is better for hard use knives like your battle horse, and full flat or hollow ground is better for chef's knives or ones that see constant sharpening...
No offense taken whatsoever. I am learning about a new craft here. Thanks for the info.
RioGrandeGreen
02-19-14, 15:08
I was thinking of this thread while I was eating my lunch at work. My personal chef (wife) forgot to put a knife to cut the chicken and green beans. I don't like to use my EDC work knife to cut my food because it cuts everything else. So I remembered I had my Hidden Key knife in my lunchbox. This knife is very handy and was made by our very own M4C member stalker3. Another go to tool is my titanium spork, I use it everyday at work to eat my lunch. I'm just missing an ESSE 6.;)
23745
VooDoo6Actual
02-20-14, 06:17
Really interesting design that. Looks likes there's very little it can't do. No one would call it pretty that's for sure, but stuff with real utility is often not real pretty to look at. That little lip bump on the blade looks odd visually speaking to me. Does it have a tendency to catch on something your cutting or anything like that?
Curling fire tinder, Pitch Bark shaving, notching for traps, notching for shelter shock cords, shelter / tent stakes et al.
I was thinking of this thread while I was eating my lunch at work. My personal chef (wife) forgot to put a knife to cut the chicken and green beans. I don't like to use my EDC work knife to cut my food because it cuts everything else. So I remembered I had my Hidden Key knife in my lunchbox. This knife is very handy and was made by our very own M4C member stalker3. Another go to tool is my titanium spork, I use it everyday at work to eat my lunch. I'm just missing an ESSE 6.;)
23745
ESEE 6 is a really nice knife but has a 6.5" overall blade but only 5.75" cutting edge. this is for the choil but I like bush blades without them. I get more leverage when the edge to comes all the way up to the handle. my hunting/skinning knife has a pretty big choil that let's me get up onto the blade for fine work but the ESEE's seems to be just a little too small and I've nicked my finger using a grip past the guard.
I never thought I'd say this but I bought my son a Cold Steel SRK in San Mai (laminated steel) for a camp knife and it's really nice. Cold Steel redesigned the SRK a while back with an extended ricasso (the unground part of the blade) and it improves that knife considerably. some people had broken that knife right at that spot when battoning and I guess that's the reason for the redesign but now I'm able to get a full finger ahead of the guard for apple peeling and other chores. it's available in AUS8 also but that's not worth the savings, IMO...
RioGrandeGreen
02-20-14, 22:15
Thanks for the insight Ra2bach, I appreciate it. I got a Emerson PUK and a Anza clip point that I use as for camp knives that I love for the everyday camp chores. My go to PUK with added teklok.
23852
Thanks for the insight Ra2bach, I appreciate it. I got a Emerson PUK and a Anza clip point that I use as for camp knives that I love for the everyday camp chores. My go to PUK with added teklok.
23852
that's a helluva camp knife... ;)
My current system of choice is a Leatherman multi tool a mora and a sog saw back machete. There has been some cases of people breaking the machete. I really thumped on mine and haven't had any problems. This is a very capable combo.
My current system of choice is a Leatherman multi tool a mora and a sog saw back machete. There has been some cases of people breaking the machete. I really thumped on mine and haven't had any problems. This is a very capable combo.
that would be me. those SOG machetes are plain garbage. just trimming a 1" green branch off a tree, a chunk came out of the edge about the size of half a nickel. I threw the rest away so someone wouldn't be tempted to use it and have it break off and the head go flying...
that would be me. those SOG machetes are plain garbage. just trimming a 1" green branch off a tree, a chunk came out of the edge about the size of half a nickel. I threw the rest away so someone wouldn't be tempted to use it and have it break off and the head go flying...
That's crappy to hear. Looks like they have some qc problems with this line or are not using consistent steel from batch to batch. You are the third person that I've heard with this experience. Kind of thinking its time to seek out a different set up. K-bar, folding bow saw, and multi tool is the way I'm leaning.
That's crappy to hear. Looks like they have some qc problems with this line or are not using consistent steel from batch to batch. You are the third person that I've heard with this experience. Kind of thinking its time to seek out a different set up. K-bar, folding bow saw, and multi tool is the way I'm leaning.
you'd be much better off with one of the Ontario machetes made of 1095. can be found for not much more than the SOG crap...
That's crappy to hear. Looks like they have some qc problems with this line or are not using consistent steel from batch to batch. You are the third person that I've heard with this experience. Kind of thinking its time to seek out a different set up. K-bar, folding bow saw, and multi tool is the way I'm leaning.
multitool is always good as long as it's doesn't have a kitchen sink and weigh three pounds. however, it's still going to be a compromise. the pliers are good for lifting hot pots but the knife is fragile and shouldn't but used for much more than food prep and camp chores. but the knife folds and needs to be cleaned well so I hate folding knives for sustained use. one with a wood saw and metal file, and an awl with a hole in it for repairing tarp or drilling holes in wood is very useful.
do yourself a favor and get one of those $15 Mora Companion knives and see how much you can do with it. you may find that it totally replaces your Kbar. what a 4" knife can't do, a small axe or hatchet will. it will also do many more things a large knife or hand saw can't.
and I hate bowsaws, or at least ones with crap blades that don't cut straight, chatter more than they should, and bind in the cut. if I need to take a saw in addition to my hatchet, I take a good quality 21" blade with split (key) rings through the end holes and a good mask on the blade in my pack. you can even roll it up and store it in your cooking pot. I can make a handle in the woods for it but I find I almost never use it.
the folding pocket saws are light but with the limitations of only a 7"10" blade, I can process the same wood quicker with a good axe. get good with one about 17"-25" and 1.5-2lbs head and you'll see what i mean...
I only carry one knife usually. I found limited use for a leatherman, it just doesn't come up very often for me in a backpacking environment.
What I'd carry if it had to be 3
1. Winkler Belt Knife
2. Emerson CQC-6
3. Winkler Combat Axe
Haven't picked up a combat axe yet, I'm using an Emerson CQC-T in the meantime.
North American hardwood forests?
I wouldn't think parang nor a tomahawk, I'd think axe or camp hatchet(Not some combat ax, something you'd actually chop wood in a serious way kind of tool) if I was going anywhere for a while.
In my EDC bag I carry a Mora Bushcraft Carbon Black, and a chainmate. I carry a Wave on me all the time and the blades are quite capable and sharp, but I wouldn't baton kindling with it, the saw is pretty fair for the size.
But I'm only interested in getting home, totally different if you are bugging out.
North American hardwood forests?
I wouldn't think parang nor a tomahawk, I'd think axe or camp hatchet(Not some combat ax, something you'd actually chop wood in a serious way kind of tool) if I was going anywhere for a while.
In my EDC bag I carry a Mora Bushcraft Carbon Black, and a chainmate. I carry a Wave on me all the time and the blades are quite capable and sharp, but I wouldn't baton kindling with it, the saw is pretty fair for the size.
But I'm only interested in getting home, totally different if you are bugging out.
a Kukri or heavy blade short machete will process a lot of wood though they may weigh as much as a small hatchet and a hatchet will chop easier because it doesn't get stuck in the log while chopping.
the Fiskars X7 only costs $25 and is a hatchet that punches way above it's weight class. you won't do any felling or splitting of large logs with it but for around the campfire, it's a winner.
I have a Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe and is the one I take with me in my pack. it's the best compromise of weight and capability. with a 19" handle and 1.5lb head you can use it for everything up to about 6" logs.
you can choke up both of these axes to make shavings for tinder and eliminate the need for a large knife.
for pure grunt neither of these compare to a larger axe in the 24"-26"/2.5lb head axe, what we used to call a 3/4 axe. this will fell and limb larger trees but are a little clumsy to make kindling. I can get away very easily with just this axe and a 4" knife...
I will also vouch for the Mora Companion. Add a Kershaw Camp 10 and a Bahco Laplander folding saw, and for about $74 for the three of them, I have all I really need. On top of that, I might add a Husqvarna Multi-purpose Forest Axe (about $65) for more heavy-duty work.
ColtSeavers
05-30-14, 01:56
Hogue EX-F01 7"
Gerber Gator Clip Point
Gerber M600 Needle-nose
I'd have my leatherman, a hatchet/tomahawk, and my SOG seal pup or Kbar.
If it's strictly knives or blades I'd go with a gerber boot knife, a Kbar type fighting knife, and a machete. L
just got a PM asking about the Fiskars/Gerbers axes. I think there's some content here for everyone with the same questions and since I'm lazy and don't want to retype everything, here's my reply (with the name deleted)...
-- anyway, the original x7 is similar/same as the Gerbers hatchet. this is the one with the poor edge performance and they don't offer this one as a Fiskars branded one anymore (just on principle, I stay away from anything Gerbers branded). it is a tiny bit lighter and the head is thinner/smaller than the current orange handle Fiskars x7. this is now my hunting hatchet as the poll is a little more rounded and works really well for skinning.
now they have two Fiskars hatchets, a new all black one, and the X7 with the orange grip. I have and would recommend the orange handle if you can still find it ($23 on Amazon), simply because I have not used the all black one...
they also make an orange handle x15 with 2.5 lb head on 23" handle. personally, the head is a just a tad bit heavy for the length, YMMV... I have one but only use this with my chainsaw for grubbing, splitting, and pounding wedges. both these little axes are light and sturdy and chop and split way above their weight class. in fact, I have two Gransfors Bruks axes (Scandinavian Forest axe and the Small Forest axe) and these Fiskars stay right there with them in performance, while being better splitters...
recently, Fiskars brought out a 28" handle version using the 2.5 lb/ X15 head, but I have only seen it available in all black. this is going to be my next purchase for rough use/general camp work as I feel the handle length is better suited for the head weight and it should chop and split with a vengeance. $55 at Sears and I won't feel bad bucking dirty logs on the ground or miss and nick the bit. this will be the one I take to group camp outings for loaning out... :cool:
on another note, I have a Husqvarna Forest axe which compares to the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe in size/weight. it's not as well finished and required quite a bit of file work to reprofile the bit, but when done, it performs every bit as good as the GB for half the price.
hope this helps...
Edit to add: for those who prefer a "traditional" axe to these Fiskars, one benefit of the Fiskars is the way they mount the head. a traditional axe use an eye through the head to mount the handle. the head is differentially tempered with the cheeks, eye, and poll being softer tempered than the bit. this is fine but if you intend to use the poll to hammer with, the force can bend or misshape the eye and lead to failure.
the Fiskars axes use a solid piece of steel for the head with the handle molded around it and their tempering is uniform throughout so there is no danger in pounding with it. however -- I would NOT use either of these types of axes to pound metal wedges as there is personal danger from flying metal shards...
ra2bach, the one criticism of the Fiskars hatchets/axes I've seen is that wood can get jammed between the head and the plastic "loop" so to speak, holding the head on. Have you experienced this at all? Would you say this is a design issue or operator issue? Thanks.
ra2bach, the one criticism of the Fiskars hatchets/axes I've seen is that wood can get jammed between the head and the plastic "loop" so to speak, holding the head on. Have you experienced this at all? Would you say this is a design issue or operator issue? Thanks.
I've not seen exactly what you are talking about but the sides can get abraded pretty well on the original versions. this was the reason for the new design of the X models... the head is forged with a slight raised portion that deflects wood away from the handle attachment area. this also makes them superior splitters.
for what it is - price vs performance - these Fiskars are in a separate league. I have my fancy Swedish knives and axes but that is really just for the soul, not that they cut better. some people will say that they saw pics of some guy in the arctic shatter the handle when he ran over it with his half track or some shit. well ok, I say get another one, they're cheap enough...
as for operator issues, I've had them all... swinging a sharp weighted tool is not something to do haphazardly or even if the slightest bit tired or distracted. I respect axes more than chainsaws and I'm quite a bit paranoid around them. you need all your skill and concentration with either of these and catastrophic accidents can still happen. stay safe...
1) Benchmade 530BK (http://www.benchmade.com/products/530) (is my EDC, would ditch for my Leatherman Wave, carried in vehicle, in a survival/backpacking situation)
2) Benchmade Bushcrafter (http://rockymountainbushcraft.blogspot.com/2013/08/review-benchmade-bushcrafter-knife-has.html)(my favorite new knife, sheath carries a Light My Fire Original Swedish FireSteel Army size (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013L2DKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)); carried in backpack.
3) Estwing Hatchet (Paracord wrapped handle), carried in vehicle.*
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o309/laninga66/Hatchet2.jpg (http://s123.photobucket.com/user/laninga66/media/Hatchet2.jpg.html)
My Gramps got this at a garage sale for $1; I sand-blasted it and under coated it, then had it professionally sharpened for $8. I was pretty happy with that score.
1) Benchmade 530BK (http://www.benchmade.com/products/530) (is my EDC, would ditch for my Leatherman Wave, carried in vehicle, in a survival/backpacking situation)
2) Benchmade Bushcrafter (http://rockymountainbushcraft.blogspot.com/2013/08/review-benchmade-bushcrafter-knife-has.html)(my favorite new knife, sheath carries a Light My Fire Original Swedish FireSteel Army size (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013L2DKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)); carried in backpack.
3) Estwing Hatchet (Paracord wrapped handle), carried in vehicle.*
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o309/laninga66/Hatchet2.jpg (http://s123.photobucket.com/user/laninga66/media/Hatchet2.jpg.html)
My Gramps got this at a garage sale for $1; I sand-blasted it and under coated it, then had it professionally sharpened for $8. I was pretty happy with that score.
that suits me just fine... :cool:
teutonicpolymer
10-17-14, 20:43
1. Fiskar Axe or ESEE Junglas
2. ESEE 4/5/6
3. Small stainless steel knife, possibly a folder- maybe some kind of Spyderco, a steel like VG10 would be nice because it is pretty easy to sharpen. Alternative is an ESEE Izula.
I had wanted to get a Blind Horse Knives knife but they split up before I could. I might get one of the Battle Horse Knives knives sometime though and that could replace the ESEE 4/5/6 in my line up. I am also a big fan of the ESEE Izula. I used to have a Junglas but got rid of it- a nice big knife that I would not mind owning again.
Blackjack model 125 on my belt, for the heavy stuff. Basically a Randle knock off, super nice and very high quality and the convex edge is crazy sharp.
Essee Izula around my neck, this is the do all knife. From gutting and skinning, to making fuzz sticks for fire starting, honestly I think it is the perfect knife.
Any good quality locking pocket knife, Buck, Benchmade, Spyderco, earlier Gerber's and SOG's. Basically back up for the other two.
These three are on my person when I go hunting or plan to be in the woods for more than a few hours. Truthfully I could probably just carry the Izula and it would be sufficient but I like having the Blackjack for big stuff and a folder in case I loose the Izula. I also carry a small hatchet in my pack when I hunt.
The Blackjack could be replaced with a decent hatchet or even a tomahawk on an extended trip where fire building would be expected.
I have to modify my earlier response.
I've just received a Fallkniven Volcano... OMG what a knife!! It's large but handles "smaller". It obviously wont do Izula type work (have one and love it) but has a much broader window of what it can do competently compared to similarly sized knives IMO.
That will replace the S1 I listed prior.
rcoodyar15
11-25-14, 12:59
I have too many knives to count. Always have a quality folder on me but I am always finding new ones.
for my present dedicated camping set I have the Knives of Alaska Bushcamp/cub bear combo. Not expensive so they can be used and abused.
http://www.knivesofalaska.com/images/userfiles/image/products/20101022091236_6_20_bushcampcubcombosure.jpg
and the hunters hatchet
http://www.knivesofalaska.com/images/userfiles/image/products/20101022093015_6_26_huntershatchet.jpg
Linea_de_Fuego
11-25-14, 22:18
A bit late to this thread, but here is my view, and a bit different than some.
From a weight saving point of view, I think 3 different blades is a bit too much. Ideally, you should choose one blade that you can perform:
-chopping with
-fine work With
-skinning
If I am bringing something else, it will be a folding saw/compact saw of some kind.
I agree:
Hudson Bay
Camp ax
BK 24
No need for a folder. I think a small fixed blade is preferable.
BK 16
An all purpose design.
Scrap Yard 1111, Swamp Rat Infidu, Caswell EDX or Hawk MUDD
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.