Attaching kydex holsters to MOLLE webbing

[mhanna91]

I know this topic has been touched on briefly before, but I thought I would start a thread for those looking for or experimenting with different options. I will be receiving my HSGI Suregrip padded belt today, and I have a second Raven Concealment holster on its way within a couple weeks as well which will be dedicated to this first line belt. I have been looking through the "first line belts" sticky and was wondering if anyone has come up with a good solid option for mounting kydex holsters to MOLE webbing. I like the PUP option, but it is out of stock. I also saw something that I believe was called the MOLLE lock or something similar, but can't seem find the link to that product. Aside from using zip ties, these are the only options I have seen. Any other ideas or product reviews?


Thanks alot,
Mark

[Hmac]

MOLLE-LOK from BladeTech (http://www.blade-tech.com/Molle-Lok-Large-Set-of-2-pr-1026.html) is a viable option. Likewise, using MALICE (http://prostores2.carrierzone.com/servlet/emdomusa/Categories?category=MALICE+Clips) clips, works well, securing them to the holster either with rivets or Chicago screws.

[Pax]

Either of Hmac's suggestions will work well. I use hardware from my local Home Depot when I attach MALICE clips to holsters. Cheaper than any Chicagos and I can torque down a nut with a locking washer a lot more than I can a Chicago. But thats just me. Birchwood Casey Perma Blue works well if you dont care for shiny hardware.

[TomF]

You're really attempting to use two products that were not designed to function with each other. The HSGI belt is not made to carry traditional belt holsters, and our Phantom is not made to be carried on MOLLE.

There are a number of purpose-built solutions I would recommend. If you want to stick with the HSGI belt, I would select a dedicated holster designed to work with war belts. Safariland would be my first stop.

If you want to stick with our holster, I would suggest a VTAC Brokos belt that would allow you to bypass the MOLLE channels and attach the holster directly to the inner belt.

[Apricotshot]

http://store.usgruntgear.com/phmohofrmafr.html

Here is a method.

[jtc556]

I have been following the First Line Belt Sticky also. I have yet to purchase a belt but have been experimenting with a belt I removed from an FLC. Adding pouches was not a problem but had to put my Macgyver hat to get a holster mounted. I had a old Fobus holster that has been sitting around for years and decided to modify it. It seems to work very well for an experiment.

http://i1036.photobucket.com/albums/a450/jtc556/h1.jpg

http://i1036.photobucket.com/albums/a450/jtc556/h3.jpg

http://i1036.photobucket.com/albums/a450/jtc556/h2.jpg

http://i1036.photobucket.com/albums/a450/jtc556/h4.jpg

http://i1036.photobucket.com/albums/a450/jtc556/h5.jpg

http://i1036.photobucket.com/albums/a450/jtc556/h6.jpg

http://i1036.photobucket.com/albums/a450/jtc556/h7.jpg

http://i1036.photobucket.com/albums/a450/jtc556/h8.jpg

[orionz06]

I have a slightly more elegant solution although none is better than using the right belt or right holster for the job.

Attach a small section of belt to molle with some kydex:

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a183/orionz06/2e2eec99.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a183/orionz06/71254961.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a183/orionz06/7b6690f7.jpg

Then attach holster to the new belt section:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a183/orionz06/fc39cf2f.jpg







Or buy a Brokos or USGG belt...

[Pax]

My apologies for being negative. And I really ought to try it ought before bashing it.

By my god. That looks like a very loose and unnecessarily complex mounting solution. If I had the ability to mold Kydex, which you do, Id just mold some MOLLE-compatible loops sized for the holster's holes... bolt those on and boom. Done.

[orionz06]

There were two problems with that belt (BFG). First is there are only 2 rows of webbing for attachment, not 3, so using the normal loops on 2/3 rows is out. This will be functional with an HSGI belt, far from ideal, but functional. Second it there is little to no support, the outer belt portion where the molle webbing is sewn onto is floppy. Again, the Brokos and USGG belts do not have these issues. Buying either one solves all the problems without adding any. The belt segment improved the rigidity of the attachment over larger kydex loops. Neither are ideal but compared to the larger loops this method seems to be a little better.

The other point this addresses is the number of holsters. Not everyone has more than one holster, some mount their carry holster to a warbelt before a class and take it off to leave. The Brokos belt is faster but this is not too terribly slow. Larger kydex loops to straddle 3" of molle webbing just doesn't work on a normal EDC belt.

[JSantoro]

the outer belt portion where the molle webbing is sewn onto is floppy.

One can mitigate this by sewing some hook velcro on the inner surface of the SOC-C MOLLE flap....with the hook facing inward, of course...., but make sure that it's not just sewn on it's borders. Gotta toss some stitching to the middle so it doesn't shift about because the middle of the field is unsecured.

If you have an inner belt with loop velcro on it, as is relatively common, the hook mates with that stuff; makes for a surprisingly solid lock-up...in addition to the hook-velcro adding rigidity in and of itself.

Plus, you can use it strictly in the area(s) you want to make more rigid (without being stupid-stiff), though it helps to extend past those zones if the hook isn't mating to loop.

[orionz06]

I have found that to work very well with just sticky velcro for proof of concept.



Not as well as a Brokos belt though.

[Pax]

Ill agree to disagree on this one.

As for the ease of mounting and unmounting a daily carry holster on a belt system, your Kydex loops that attach the belt to the MOLLE already require you to work a screwdriver for a few minutes. I hardly think working the two more screws on any direct holster-to-MOLLE Kydex loops would be significantly more work.

And I really have to try it before knocking it... but I somehow doubt that strapping anything, regardless of how rigid it is, to a floppy platform is going to make the inherently floppy platform significantly more rigid. Have you considered the armor inserts?

[orionz06]

Honestly I have just been toying with random ideas. What was shown on the BFG belt is a workable solution that I would have no issues using it is not what I use.

I use a Brokos belt and thread whatever holster I am carrying onto it that day.

[ra2bach]

I like the Safariland system. http://www.safariland.com/dutygear/duty/mls.aspx

if using a molle belt, their MLS system with locking forks and receiver plates works great. the MLS locking fork can be used by itself in molle channels but I prefer to use the receiver as it adds just a bit of space to clear chest rigs, etc...

if using a belt that can be threaded through the slots in the holster, using one of their backing plates - either standard or various ride height "drop" plates such as the UBL - works great.

I use a MLS receiver on a UBL and have the MLS forks on all my holsters so I can switch out holsters and guns easily.

[ScottD]

Here's mine attached to an ATS War Belt. I had the guy space the rivets on the holster to allow 1.5" belt loops and his molle attachment loops. Works great for me.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a169/LawVol/IMG_20111012_195223.jpg

[NeoNeanderthal]

I've used parachute cord, which stretched after a while and zip-ties which worked great.

Everyone has the ability to mold kydex loops. You can also buy a half sheet of thick kydex, cut it, and mold it in your oven to make whatever type of loops you want... To make belt loops you not REALLY need any equipment. Though the ability to rivet the holes in the loops would be nice, but not necessary. Just use the chicago screws that came with the holster.