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View Full Version : Would a Daniel Defense Omega X handguard stand up to being cut here?



rob_s
03-29-12, 04:06
Yes, I know a lot of companies make variations, and even DD makes other railed handguards that do the same thing. This is not about that. I'm specifically curious to know if the two assembly screws that remain on each side on the Omega X would be enough to hold the handguard together if the whole thing was cut at the yellow line.

The 7.0 and 9.0 both have two screws per side but the second screw is closer to the front than the cut 12.0 FSP would appear to have.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q111/rob_s/gun%20stuff/ezcar.jpg

Animal_Mother556
03-29-12, 04:36
I see no reason why it wouldn't

GTifosi
03-29-12, 07:35
I concur.
Even the section to the left of the line should hold together adiquately if another user was found for it, particularly if the parts mate on a shoulder or simular to keep them in alignment with each other.

fixit69
03-29-12, 12:49
Rob, I agree with the others. I don't see a problem since my DD omega 7" only has two and it's very solid. You have only a little more hanging off the front than a 9" and given the way these rails lock up and stay put, I don't think it would be a problem.

ETA: keep us informed I'd some thing does pop up. I'm about to do almost the same thing to a Troy and cut an FSP slot. Yea, I'm cheap. Trying to recycle.

CCK
03-29-12, 13:00
I'm not answering here Rob, just wondering how/why you came up with that length?

Chris

matemike
03-29-12, 13:08
SHOULD hold.
I wouldn't run a sling attachment forward of the screws to the right of the yellow line. But as far as staying "together", That ought to be no problem.
How are you going to re-blue or parkerize the raw metal at the cut?

Surf
03-29-12, 13:39
It will work well. I picked up a lot of these rails when bcm and midway was selling them on the cheap. I do that exact modification for sbr's.

Surf
03-29-12, 13:43
Birchwood Casey aluminum black makes the cut end finish look factory.

rob_s
03-29-12, 16:33
I'm not answering here Rob, just wondering how/why you came up with that length?
surf's up

It will work well. I picked up a lot of these rails when bcm and midway was selling them on the cheap. I do that exact modification for sbr's.





How are you going to re-blue or parkerize the raw metal at the cut?
surf again

Birchwood Casey aluminum black makes the cut end finish look factory.


:D

Reagans Rascals
03-29-12, 16:39
since the portion forward of the cut line is also held together by the preceding 2 screws, in addition to its own screw, removing that portion will still leave the first 2 anchor points and thus still be more than adequate for anything you'll throw at it... short of using it for an anchor point as you lower yourself down an elevator shaft in Nakatomi Tower

CCK
03-29-12, 17:03
I guess I meant why that particular spot?
my 9.5fsp lite rail ends forward of that and i use a 10.5" barrel.

What barrel are you going to be using that there would be the "proper" length for the hanguard?

Chris

rob_s
03-29-12, 17:42
I guess I meant why that particular spot?
my 9.5fsp lite rail ends forward of that and i use a 10.5" barrel.

What barrel are you going to be using that there would be the "proper" length for the hanguard?

Chris

Further forward would leave an odd notch as the front with the bayonet lug cutout.

bsmith_shoot
03-29-12, 17:45
I cant see any problems occuring. The C4 rails only have one screw that far forward, and they are very GTG.
For some reason, I think you might be doing something with a switchblock. Probably wrong though.
Brandon

bsmith_shoot
03-29-12, 17:47
Further forward would leave an odd notch as the front with the bayonet lug cutout.

I was wrong.

hunt_ak
03-29-12, 17:48
surf, care to post a pic of your modded rail on an SBR upper?

flanntastic
03-29-12, 22:07
i cut a inch off the end of mine, no problems at all

Surf
03-31-12, 12:42
I had a hard drive issue so I will have to take new pics of one of the rifles that I did.

I make the cuts shown below in red. I like to run the rail just past the front of the FSB. The lug cutout looks like there is not much material near the front and I always knew that I could trim it back if necessary, but it has not been an issue in any of the rifles that I have done so far and the extra rail space covering the FSB is a plus.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd60/SSDSurf/Misc/dd12.jpg

ucrt
03-31-12, 13:46
.

FWIW
Just a suggestion Rob, and you may know this already, if I was going to make the cut, I would use a Miter saw with a good sharp carbide blade. I'd separate the halves and cut them separately. The Miter saw will make short work out of it and make a perfect cut.
Might even be neat to cut it at a slight angle to have more handguard on the bottom than the top.

If you've never cut aluminum, wear long sleeves, tuck your gloves under the sleeves, (those metal shavings are HOT), hold the piece well, and just cut slow and steady. Nuttin' tuit...

But maybe it's just me...

.

AKDoug
03-31-12, 23:37
Bandsaw will work too, with a metal cutting blade.

jmoney
04-02-12, 19:32
.

FWIW
Just a suggestion Rob, and you may know this already, if I was going to make the cut, I would use a Miter saw with a good sharp carbide blade. I'd separate the halves and cut them separately. The Miter saw will make short work out of it and make a perfect cut.
Might even be neat to cut it at a slight angle to have more handguard on the bottom than the top.

If you've never cut aluminum, wear long sleeves, tuck your gloves under the sleeves, (those metal shavings are HOT), hold the piece well, and just cut slow and steady. Nuttin' tuit...

But maybe it's just me...

.

I agree, I never have personally cut aluminum, but when a buddy of mine was working I walked into the shop to pick him up and got smacked by a tiny piece in my hand, it actually SANK into my hand it was so hot. Needless to say, I stand way back and wait before approaching anyone doing that now.

WFO
04-07-12, 14:13
When cutting/sanding aluminum it helps to lube the blade/disk with wax or spray lube. It'll help keep the blade from loading up and you won't have to pick the little chunks out of the teeth when you're done. There are lubes made specifically for this but an old candle works just fine too.

trinydex
04-10-12, 00:34
pics.

good to see customizations that are meaningful and non-bubba.

ucrt
04-14-12, 11:28
.

Rob,
Just curious, did you "make the cut"?
If so, how'd it come out?
.

feedramp
04-14-12, 12:01
Ditto, curious how it turned out.

rob_s
04-15-12, 03:55
.

Rob,
Just curious, did you "make the cut"?
If so, how'd it come out?
.

I have not. Too many other projects going on.