View Full Version : Stripped screw head help
Good grief, no screw is safe around me. :haha: Latest casualty is a LMT ambi selector. What's the best way to get this out and where can I source replacement screws? TIA
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u216/JW1069/Misc%20firearm%20related/010.jpg
I would tap the next size up of allen wrench into it might have to go metric to get a closer fit. could also use a reverse cut drill bit they work great.
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If you have some super glue, jb weld or something like that, you can gob some onto the end of a small metal shaft that is slightly smaller in diameter, once it sets up and cures should provide enough gripping strength to get the screw out.
JBecker 72
04-12-12, 19:36
Screw extractor:
http://www.cdxetextbook.com/images/useScrewextract.jpg
If not an EZ-out as above, a standard RH drill run a little ways in, then reversed.
On stuff of that scale it tends to wind them right out.
Alternatively a small diameter dremel cut off wheel can be employed to cut a screwdriver slot into the head.
If you're shaky you'll end up cutting a bit of the lever finish though, and a small diameter is important in helping to avoid damaging the lever.
ETA:
Replacement screw can likely be found at the local hardware store in the screws and bolts isle.
Take the old one or the other half so match up size/pitch.
Likely a standard 60 deg countersink head.
JBecker 72
04-12-12, 19:59
If the screw extractor fails to get the job done, then yes, a slot cut in the head of the screw with a dremel so you can use a flat head screwdriver will also work, but I wouldn't start there.
If the screw extractor fails to get the job done, then yes, a slot cut in the head of the screw with a dremel so you can use a flat head screwdriver will also work, but I wouldn't start there.
I need to get those extractors in bulk and then a few of the small cut wheels. Great info...thanks guys.
Any idea where to source replacement LMT screws?
Be careful with ez-outs.
They tend to be a bit more prone to breakage than drills, and when they go, they shatter and are almost impossible to remove.
Not that a broken drill is a party mind you.
Ideally you'll be set up with the lower locked down on at least a benchtop drill press so you can keep everything in straight alignment from start to finish.
Drill, remove drill from chuck, insert ez-out, run it back down to hole and then manually with the press turned off work the chuck by hand to rotate the ez-out.
You don't want to try it freehand with a handheld drill and vice grips until you've done a lot of time with a tap set and then ez-out useage.
Which of course by the time you've practiced enough to do it free hand, you won't be goofy enough to actually try.
Late question to try and get in under the wire.
Did the screw have loctite on its threads, and if so, did you apply heat before trying to remove it?
It may still take it now and spin right out after warming it up.
One of those 'crack lighters' work well.
If not then nevermind. Just though ti worth mentioning.
*Dupe of info edited in above*
Screw can probably be obtained at hardware store.
Bring old parts to match up threads unlesss you have gauges to do it yourself.
Likely a standard 60 degree countersink taper on the head.
GT, that selector was installed a while ago and IIRC used a drop of blue loctite on the end. Now I just use Vibra-TITE VC-3 for fasteners.
I mount and dissasemble a lot of scope mounts, rings and baases on hunting and varmint rifles. Many on used guns are buggered up as well as occasionally loc-tite'd.
I have to say that soaking the screws with KROIL for a few days really seems to help. Every time I'm in the shop give them another drop from a needle oiler.
Also agree with tapping in the next slightly larger hex key. Thats worked for me.
Good luck.
http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Grabit-Screw-extractor2.jpg
Grabits are the best screw extractor I have used to remove stuck allen screws. The other thing I have done is simply drill off the head, remove the lever, and then get the screw out with vice grips.
I hate extractors. Then again I'd use them on rusty cars (thanks MN).
Another idea you could try - use a dremel with a cut off wheel. Make a slice in the screw head and use a flat head to spin it off.
I'd probably just do it the longest way especially since you used locktite. Drill the screw head off and pull the safety out. Throw just the safety in a vice and drill. May have to heli-coil or tap new threads after.
As someone else said some penetrating oil might help. PB Blaster does a good job.
http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Grabit-Screw-extractor2.jpg
Grabits are the best screw extractor I have used to remove stuck allen screws. The other thing I have done is simply drill off the head, remove the lever, and then get the screw out with vice grips.
These are great^ I have this issue at work a lot and I always use a tight fitting Torx bit to remove them. I don't have to deal with Loctite though, so YMMV.
http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Grabit-Screw-extractor2.jpg
Grabits are the best screw extractor I have used to remove stuck allen screws. The other thing I have done is simply drill off the head, remove the lever, and then get the screw out with vice grips.
I agree.. The Grabit's are great and easy to use.. Ron
Would the #1 Grabit be the one to use for the screw on the OP's ambi selector? I have a similar issue with a BCM ambi selector that I have on one of my Noveske N4 lowers.
Before doing anything else, take the correct size Allen key and grind the end back so it's flat, then tap it into the screw head and try to remove it. Grinding the end flat will give it more bite. If that doesn't work, then try the other options as outlined in earlier posts.
Grabbits work well but get dull fast. Don't try to make a dull Grabbit work.
When drilling the screw, go slow and use some kind of cutting oil. Be prepared to replace the safety. Just get a replacement, don't try to save the old one and save yourself the aggravation
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