View Full Version : Choosing the right vise block
g-men10455
05-08-12, 11:32
I'm having a difficult time removing a Troy barrel nut with this vise block
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=17094/Product/AR-15-AR-STYLE-308-UPPER-RECEIVER-BLOCK
The barrel nut is so tight it cracked the receiver and warped/stretch the holes on the receiver block. I've tried to heating the barrel & WD40 but nothing works.
Should I try this aluminum instead?
http://www.squirreldaddy.com/AR-15-M16-Pro-Upper-Receiver-Vise-Block-Combo-p/20-117.htm?CartID=1
Or this one?
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22385/Product/AR-15-M16-UPPER-RECEIVER-ACTION-BLOCK
I posted pics of the broke receiver here:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=103591&page=3
Thank you
eternal24k
05-08-12, 11:46
The external Clamp style blocks are more appropriate for barrel nut torque ranges. I have seen too many receivers fail from the DPMS style which put all the stress on the take down pin holes.
The 2nd one from Brownells would be the one I would get. ProMag also makes one which is only $30-35
g-men10455
05-08-12, 11:50
This one?
http://www.amazon.com/PROMAG-AR15-M16-VISE-BLOCK/dp/B005AXYIPU
eternal24k
05-08-12, 11:58
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/310152/promag-armorers-upper-and-lower-receiver-action-block-set-ar-15?cm_mmc=Froogle-_-Gunsmithing+-+AR-15+Furniture+and+Accessories-_-PriceCompListing-_-310152
here it is for $35, I am pretty sure it's the same thing as the Brownells. My friend has the ProMag version and it works fine
TangoSauce
05-08-12, 12:10
The Brownell's kit is a great deal if you need all the basics.
g-men10455
05-08-12, 12:23
Thanks.
That's why if you're going to use a "claw" type receiver block, you put it in a vise like this for barrel nut work: http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ASH556/IMG_8090.jpg
The reason to use one of these over a clamshell is to prevent scratching and/or if using an upper like the VLTOR that won't fit in a clamshell block.
The 2nd one from Brownells would be the one I would get.
Ditto, I use one milled out for flattop uppers and I have never had a problem in well over 2,500 installs.
I have done it like this as well with the same blocks and never had an issue.
That's why if you're going to use a "claw" type receiver block, you put it in a vise like this for barrel nut work: http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ASH556/IMG_8090.jpg
The reason to use one of these over a clamshell is to prevent scratching and/or if using an upper like the VLTOR that won't fit in a clamshell block.
g-men10455
05-08-12, 14:19
I'm sorry for my ignorance but, what is that orange piece?
I'm sorry for my ignorance but, what is that orange piece?
It's a "padded" vise jaw. Basically, they come in pairs and are magnetic "non-marring" inserts so you can clamp things in a vise without damaging them. The particular one you see in this pic came from Lowes and I think the pair was like $15. They have a couple grooves pre-cut into them that are useful as well. For instance, there is a small angular channel that runs then length that is particularly useful for clamping barrels to install/remove muzzle devices.
g-men10455
05-08-12, 15:03
I already ordered the pro-mag set up but I'm going to stop by Lowes to pick one up. Thank you.
trlcavscout
05-08-12, 19:59
That's why if you're going to use a "claw" type receiver block, you put it in a vise like this for barrel nut work: http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ASH556/IMG_8090.jpg
The reason to use one of these over a clamshell is to prevent scratching and/or if using an upper like the VLTOR that won't fit in a clamshell block.
Does it slide at all on the tight ones? That looks like a good idea!
More important than than the blocks and padded jaws is the vise itself. This vise will allow you to fixture your upper without any blocks or jaws.
Glacern Machine Tool GSV-550 (http://www.glacern.com/gsv_550)
http://www.glacern.com/thumbs/gsv550_01.jpg
Does it slide at all on the tight ones? That looks like a good idea!
Not sure I understand your question.
MK18Pilot, how does that one hold the upper?
MK18Pilot, how does that one hold the upper?
ASH556 if I may answer your question about the vice and holding the upper. The CMT vise jaws are 5” across and the tabs on the upper are spaced more than 5” not sure how much but the .250 holes on an upper are 6.375” between centers ,and the depth of the jaws are 1.5” so the bottom side of the upper and the top should sit flush against the jaws. At least I think that’s how it works.
ASH556 if I may answer your question about the vice and holding the upper. The CMT vise jaws are 5” across and the tabs on the upper are spaced more than 5” not sure how much but the .250 holes on an upper are 6.375” between centers ,and the depth of the jaws are 1.5” so the bottom side of the upper and the top should sit flush against the jaws. At least I think that’s how it works.
Bingo...
Add a set of V Blocks and your barrel work gets very easy.
I own one of these
http://www.precisionreflex.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=186711&TERM=Vise
And used it like the photo above. It's got a second method of holding for attaching to the top rail... Just as an alternate I suppose. Would anyone suggest it's possible to swap the barrel using that method or no? I would think the entire rail is stronger than the two pin locations... No?
skullworks
05-09-12, 15:59
More important than than the blocks and padded jaws is the vise itself. This vise will allow you to fixture your upper without any blocks or jaws.
Glacern Machine Tool GSV-550 (http://www.glacern.com/gsv_550)
http://www.glacern.com/thumbs/gsv550_01.jpg
Whoa there buddy! No disrespect, but okay, if you're building your own gunsmithing shop I'm all with you; but for an average Joe getting a high precision Milling Vise is a "weee bit" of overkill. That is a $335 piece of metal for a $80 job that can be done with most any bench vise (provided the vise is securely bolted to a bench - and that the bench is up to the task*), a good receiver block, and (if necessary) a padded vise jaw.
* And if the vise isn't securely bolted to the bench or the bench isn't up to the job that Glacern vise won't do a lick of difference.
How would you guys recommend clamping the barrel on an SR15? There's not much room to work with between the gas block and muzzle.
How would you guys recommend clamping the barrel on an SR15? There's not much room to work with between the gas block and muzzle.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=12799/Product/SCG-AR-15-M16-ACCU-GRIP-BARREL-VISE-JAWS
g-men10455
05-09-12, 20:23
That's why if you're going to use a "claw" type receiver block, you put it in a vise like this for barrel nut work: http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ASH556/IMG_8090.jpg
The reason to use one of these over a clamshell is to prevent scratching and/or if using an upper like the VLTOR that won't fit in a clamshell block.
I got a set from Lowe's but it didn't work, the barrel is not giving in. The Promag set arrives Monday.
How would you guys recommend clamping the barrel on an SR15? There's not much room to work with between the gas block and muzzle.
Just pull the gas tube and clamp the barrel between the gas block and barrel nut.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=12799/Product/SCG-AR-15-M16-ACCU-GRIP-BARREL-VISE-JAWS
You wouldn't believe how many times I've looked at that product and misread the dimensions! I have thought it was 5" long for going on 3 years. Thanks for making me take another look. I need to confirm that there's enough length forward of the gas block, but I'm pretty sure that will work.
Just pull the gas tube and clamp the barrel between the gas block and barrel nut.
Not an option, as it would require removal of the rail.
How would you guys recommend clamping the barrel on an SR15? There's not much room to work with between the gas block and muzzle.
Why do you want to fixture the barrel? What are you trying to accomplish?
Why do you want to fixture the barrel? What are you trying to accomplish?
Muzzle device install
Muzzle device install
A set of V Blocks (http://www.travers.com/product.asp?r=s&n=||UserSearch1%3Dv+blocks&eaprodid=56984-57-071-117) is the best way to fixture the barrel in your vise.
http://www.travers.com/images/Items/250x250/57-071-117.jpg
What about this? For the OP trying to remove his barrel nut. Never used it, just saw it.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27452/Product/AR-15-M16-BARREL-EXTENSION-TORQUE-TOOL
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/vid=1516/pid=27452/Product/AR-15-M16-BARREL-EXTENSION-TORQUE-TOOL
What about this?
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27452/Product/AR-15-M16-BARREL-EXTENSION-TORQUE-TOOL
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/vid=1516/pid=27452/Product/AR-15-M16-BARREL-EXTENSION-TORQUE-TOOL
Do you understand that he asking about changing his muzzle device, not his barrel extension?
That piece of crap is second (maybe third) on the "avoid at all cost" list of Brownells tools.
Do you understand that he asking about changing his muzzle device, not his barrel extension?
That piece of crap is second (maybe third) on the "avoid at all cost" list of Brownells tools.
Edited for you
Edited for you
You can't use it to remove your barrel nut either. What is going to happen to your barrel assembly if the torque value of the barrel nut is great than that of the barrel extension? Trust me, that tool is as worthless as fart in bottle...
I got a set from Lowe's but it didn't work, the barrel is not giving in. The Promag set arrives Monday.
Are you changing the barrel or muzzle device? If muzzle device, you're better off with barrel blocks clamping the barrel in the vise than holding the receiver. If you're torquing on a muzzle device while holding the upper receiver, you risk torquing the barrel and canting your FSB.
What didn't work about what you tried?
Anyone have a favorite lower receiver vise block? I was looking at the one that Tango Down makes for the SCAR-L/H, it certainly looks well made. Hard to tell from pictures on the internet, however.
My current vise block is an out of spec Orlite magazine, minus the spring and follower, filled up with epoxy. It works quite well, but I don't know how long it's going to last.
My current vise block is an out of spec Orlite magazine, minus the spring and follower, filled up with epoxy. It works quite well, but I don't know how long it's going to last.
That's certainly going to be a tighter fit than the two magwell blocks I've used. Promag and someone else's. They are OK and do the job but they're pretty loose. The mag+epoxy idea sounds pretty decent.
To my previous post, has anyone used the PRI action block?
Is the rail attachment strong enough to change the barrel on?
http://www.parallaxtactical.com/store/images/05-0083.jpg
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=12799/Product/SCG-AR-15-M16-ACCU-GRIP-BARREL-VISE-JAWS
Just a heads-up. These will not work with pencil barrels, unless there's been a change in dimensions since I bought them a couple years ago.
That's certainly going to be a tighter fit than the two magwell blocks I've used. Promag and someone else's. They are OK and do the job but they're pretty loose. The mag+epoxy idea sounds pretty decent.
Idea of the week for me. I'm going to build one of these today, however I will add fiberglass mat to the inside to increase strength.
For the upper receiver I kinda disagree about the usefulness of the Brownnell's Barrel Extension Torque Tool. I have a vise block, but I prefer the Brownell's tool. For my use, not a gunsmith shop the tool has worked great. I clamp the tool vertically in my BAV (big ass vice) and then torque the barrel nut.
I believe that properly seated in the tool the strength of the extension is equal to or greater than the surrounding receiver material. If deformation of the extension occurs then warping of the receiver would occur in you used a vice block.
Of course, I have never put loctite on a barrel nut.:sarcastic:
skullworks
05-10-12, 14:57
That piece of crap is second (maybe third) on the "avoid at all cost" list of Brownells tools.
Amen! It's a tool for the sake of having a tool - it's completely useless.
g-men10455
05-10-12, 20:50
MK18Pilot I'm trying to remove the Troy's TRX barrel nut.
MK18Pilot I'm trying to remove the Troy's TRX barrel nut.
The clamshell style upper receiver block (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22385/Product/AR-15-M16-UPPER-RECEIVER-ACTION-BLOCK) is the only way to fly if you don't have access to a machinist vise. It's one of the few AR-15 tools that Brownells sells that is worth a shit. If you buy it, throw away the piece that is supposed to be used inside the upper. There isn't anyone who can crush a 7075-T6 upper using only the clamshell.
To my previous post, has anyone used the PRI action block?
Is the rail attachment strong enough to change the barrel on?
http://www.parallaxtactical.com/store/images/05-0083.jpg
This style of receiver block is a no go in my book. All of the torque applied to the barrel nut is transfered to the pin bosses and invariably leads to the damage experienced by the OP.
You can't use it to remove your barrel nut either. What is going to happen to your barrel assembly if the torque value of the barrel nut is great than that of the barrel extension? Trust me, that tool is as worthless as fart in bottle...
If you think about the dynamics of it, all the torque is being applied to the barrel extension and the upper receiver. None of it translates to the thread joint between the barrel extension and the barrel itself. There is literally no forceful contact between the barrel itself, the tool, or the upper receiver.
Being that the barrel assembly is attached to the upper receiver only by the barrel extension, this product could have its place and can easily be used without threatening the barrel/extension fit.
No, I don't use one. But HK uses them for 416s from what I understand.
Just a heads-up. These will not work with pencil barrels, unless there's been a change in dimensions since I bought them a couple years ago.
Pencil barrels are .625 inch, correct? Or is there an even lighter profile?
These blocks will work on .625 barrels.
On further review, the following will work with the smaller barrels. I've used the ones in the next link, not the ones above. I didn't proof read the link above (just scanned and it "looked" right"), but I cannot actually vouch for the above one with the polymer inserts. I can vouch for the one below fitting on .625 barrels.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=12470/Product/AR-15-M16-BARREL-VISE-JAWS
Pencil barrels are .625 inch, correct?
Yes, at the sight base seat as I know you know. ;)
If the blocks are loose just sand down the mating surfaces.
If you think about the dynamics of it, all the torque is being applied to the barrel extension and the upper receiver. None of it translates to the thread joint between the barrel extension and the barrel itself. There is literally no forceful contact between the barrel itself, the tool, or the upper receiver.
Being that the barrel assembly is attached to the upper receiver only by the barrel extension, this product could have its place and can easily be used without threatening the barrel/extension fit.
No, I don't use one. But HK uses them for 416s from what I understand.
Well hell, if HK uses them they must be the cats meow. :agree:
That "tool" is problematic. You are certainly welcome to promote its use and debate the "forceful contact" that is or isn't present. One of two scenarios is probable with its use and both will result in gallons of crocodile tears - sheared index pin or loosen barrel extension.
Well hell, if HK uses them they must be the cats meow. :agree:
Hey, just passing on info is all.
That "tool" is problematic.
How so? Understanding that it in no way applies force to the barrel/barrel extension joint, I'm failing to see an issue.
You are certainly welcome to promote its use and debate the "forceful contact" that is or isn't present. One of two scenarios is probable with its use and both will result in gallons of crocodile tears - sheared index pin or loosen barrel extension.
Well, this is the website of "show me", experience gained knowledge and specifics, not generalizations and throwing crap against the wall just to see what sticks, so, prove it. This isn't a case of "debate", this is a case of facts. The fact of the matter is that you can attach a barrel extension to a reciever using a barrel nut, and not have a barrel in it at all, but you cannot attach a barrel to a receiver without an extension simply because the only way a barrel connects to the receiver is by the extension. Period. No discussion, that's just the way it is.
I have no experience with the tool, but a simple breakdown of which parts are in contact with the others, where force is actually being applied, and and understanding of the forces involved (ya know, physics shit) pretty much says that this tool is in no way inferior to any other accepted method of attaching a barrel to a receiver. Not saying it's superior either, but it certianly isn't any worse then the others.
Matter of fact, using barrel blocks to attach a barrel to a receiver has more of a chance of effecting the barrel/barrel extension joint then this tool does due to the fact that there is direct force applied to the barrel/extension joint.
And yup, a quick look at TM9-1005-319-23 page 155 (on the PDF version) shows barrel blocks being used to install a barrel.
So I guess I AM saying that it IS superior to at least one accepted method of barrel/receiver installation.
This style of receiver block is a no go in my book. All of the torque applied to the barrel nut is transferred to the pin bosses and invariably leads to the damage experienced by the OP.
And how is the PRI I posted any different than this other one? Or is it that you don't like this one either?
http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ASH556/IMG_8090.jpg
More to what I was wondering on the PRI, is would the rail attachment work any better/worse/differently then attaching at the pins? In either the above example style or the 'vertical' method that I agree would place all the force on the pins.
g-men10455
05-18-12, 12:35
The ProMag did the trick, thanks to everyone.
For what it's worth, I used the PRI today to install a barrel. The rail attachment style worked REALLY well. It obviously wouldn't work for an A1/A2 style upper, but for a flat top it worked great, I like it better than the clamshell as I can tighten the shit out of the vise with no worry.
That's why if you're going to use a "claw" type receiver block, you put it in a vise like this for barrel nut work: http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ASH556/IMG_8090.jpg
The reason to use one of these over a clamshell is to prevent scratching and/or if using an upper like the VLTOR that won't fit in a clamshell block.
Is this a DPMS? Can someone provide a link to where I can order one of these?
That is the DPMS Panther Claw. I bought mine from Brownells, but it appears they've discontinued it?
spring1271
05-21-12, 08:50
You can try freezing the assembly if you have a freezer it will fit in. If that doesnt work apply penetrating oil allow to soak overnight then apply heat and it should break free.
spring1271
05-21-12, 08:58
I am not familiar with the Troy barrel nut but if it will accept the PRI barrel nut wrench it makes a world of difference on stuck barrel nuts. and when you replace it dont forget to use moly grease on the threads.
DirectDrive
05-21-12, 12:06
Hey, just passing on info is all.
How so? Understanding that it in no way applies force to the barrel/barrel extension joint, I'm failing to see an issue.
Well, this is the website of "show me", experience gained knowledge and specifics, not generalizations and throwing crap against the wall just to see what sticks, so, prove it. This isn't a case of "debate", this is a case of facts. The fact of the matter is that you can attach a barrel extension to a reciever using a barrel nut, and not have a barrel in it at all, but you cannot attach a barrel to a receiver without an extension simply because the only way a barrel connects to the receiver is by the extension. Period. No discussion, that's just the way it is.
I have no experience with the tool, but a simple breakdown of which parts are in contact with the others, where force is actually being applied, and and understanding of the forces involved (ya know, physics shit) pretty much says that this tool is in no way inferior to any other accepted method of attaching a barrel to a receiver. Not saying it's superior either, but it certianly isn't any worse then the others.
Matter of fact, using barrel blocks to attach a barrel to a receiver has more of a chance of effecting the barrel/barrel extension joint then this tool does due to the fact that there is direct force applied to the barrel/extension joint.
And yup, a quick look at TM9-1005-319-23 page 155 (on the PDF version) shows barrel blocks being used to install a barrel.
So I guess I AM saying that it IS superior to at least one accepted method of barrel/receiver installation.
Agree.
When you think it through with an understanding of which parts are "in play", grabbing the lugs securely would anchor the BE.
Torque applied to the barrel nut would not affect the barrel-to-extension joint.
That joint would be out of play.
Here's a clip from the TM showing the barrel block method...
http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/3477/barrelviseblockmethod.jpg
That's why if you're going to use a "claw" type receiver block, you put it in a vise like this for barrel nut work: http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ASH556/IMG_8090.jpg
The reason to use one of these over a clamshell is to prevent scratching and/or if using an upper like the VLTOR that won't fit in a clamshell block.
Ash I notice in this pic that you only have one pin in place holding the upper to the panther claw. I just bought the exact same block and found out the hard way that the included pins won't fit through the pivot pin hole of my DD upper. Do you have the same problem with yours?
ETA: I called Rainier Arms because there's who I bought it from and asked about this problem. The guy I spoke to on the phone pulled a panther claw and 2 DD uppers to test. The pins wouldn't fit through the pivot pin of one of the DD uppers and would barely fit through the other one. Then he tried them in a Mega upper and it fit fine. Maybe DD machines the pivot pin hole in their uppers a little tight? I don't know. I do know that when I'm separating my upper from the lower (Spike's lower) that it's easy to push the pins by hand.
Is this a DPMS? Can someone provide a link to where I can order one of these?
Not DPMS but I got mine from Armalite
It'll do both the AR10 & 15 and does not rely on the pins for support.
Upper vice block set (http://www.armalite.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=15901202&ReturnUrl=Categories.aspx?Category=d2335413-439f-4a72-bf05-37886dae666c)
ridgerunner70
07-29-12, 15:29
So I am going to purchase either a action clamp block or a vise block. Which one would be best to work on uppers with?
So I am going to purchase either a action clamp block or a vise block. Which one would be best to work on uppers with?
I use the brownells clamshell. Its worked for me for quite a few now.
OP, can you go over your course of action for me? I'm having a problem on how you f'ed the upper so bad. Not yanking your chain, just want to know.
DirectDrive
07-29-12, 21:04
I use the brownells clamshell. Its worked for me for quite a few now.
The Brownells clamshell is well made.
The included magwell block is a crappy injection molded part that wouldn't even fit into my mag well.
I sent it back and they sent me a Sinclair mag well block that is machined UHMW.....very nice piece, at N/C.
Don't forget to insert the carrier tunnel plug when using the clamshell.
The military has been using barrel vice blocks as shown above in the TM schematic, since the inception.
For a receiver lug type restraint this one looks much better than most...
Spikes Block Worx
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/6861/bw1600x450.jpg
The carrier tunnel plug is worthless. If you tighten everything so tight that thing isn't going to save you from being an idiot. It's a waste of plastic and nothing more.
The Brownells clamshell is well made.
The included magwell block is a crappy injection molded part that wouldn't even fit into my mag well.
I sent it back and they sent me a Sinclair mag well block that is machined UHMW.....very nice piece, at N/C.
Don't forget to insert the carrier tunnel plug when using the clamshell.
The military has been using barrel vice blocks as shown above in the TM schematic, since the inception.
For a receiver lug type restraint this one looks much better than most...
Spikes Block Worx
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/6861/bw1600x450.jpg
ridgerunner70
07-29-12, 22:17
The carrier tunnel plug is worthless. If you tighten everything so tight that thing isn't going to save you from being an idiot. It's a waste of plastic and nothing more.
In your opinion what do you think of the clam shell block?
I use one everyday. I prefer the ones from Brownells over others.
In your opinion what do you think of the clam shell block?
Do you understand that he asking about changing his muzzle device, not his barrel extension?
That piece of crap is second (maybe third) on the "avoid at all cost" list of Brownells tools.
I own the torque tool sold by Brownell's. I purchased it because of all the billet uppers out there that my clam shell will not work on. I have only used on 20+ uppers, but it has worked very well. I do use mine slightly different than Brownell's recommends. I still turn the barrel nut wrench while holding the torque tool stationary.
By the way he could have removed the muzzle device while using the torque tool. Just like he could using your milling vise set up, or a clamshell.
ETA: OP, glad it worked out for you.
Ash I notice in this pic that you only have one pin in place holding the upper to the panther claw. I just bought the exact same block and found out the hard way that the included pins won't fit through the pivot pin hole of my DD upper. Do you have the same problem with yours?
ETA: I called Rainier Arms because there's who I bought it from and asked about this problem. The guy I spoke to on the phone pulled a panther claw and 2 DD uppers to test. The pins wouldn't fit through the pivot pin of one of the DD uppers and would barely fit through the other one. Then he tried them in a Mega upper and it fit fine. Maybe DD machines the pivot pin hole in their uppers a little tight? I don't know. I do know that when I'm separating my upper from the lower (Spike's lower) that it's easy to push the pins by hand.
Sorry, I just saw this, but yeah, that's why the front pin isn't there and yes, my upper is a DD. Weird, huh?
Get the one from squirrel daddy thats a great one.
Ed
Just used my squirrel daddy block for my noveske 11.5" switchblock on vltor vis and it went perfect.
DirectDrive
08-08-12, 20:02
Squirrel Daddy looks a little sketchy to me.
No top hat, all the torque flows through the receiver lugs.
Installing a barrel is not bad with this type of restraint if you are reasonable with torque application.
Uninstalling a barrel with this type of restraint is when receiver damage can occur.
You don't want to see the pics.
What about putting it in sideways with a board or something else on the flat top part? For heavy use that is my plan
Please, just get the clamshells and be done with it.
ridgerunner70
08-08-12, 21:10
IG said he uses the clamshell style from brownells everyday. I don't see him using junk. Brownell's has a special on the upper action block/ lower block for $57.99. You are getting the lower block for $4.00. Just ordered one today.
Sorry, I just saw this, but yeah, that's why the front pin isn't there and yes, my upper is a DD. Weird, huh?
Thanks for the follow up. On a side note I now have a Noveske upper on my rifle (after some drama) and the pins won't fit through the pivot pin hole in that upper either.
richdkim77
08-08-12, 21:55
IG said he uses the clamshell style from brownells everyday. I don't see him using junk. Brownell's has a special on the upper action block/ lower block for $57.99. You are getting the lower block for $4.00. Just ordered one today.
This is a great deal, and yep, since IG recommends that type, I went ahead and ordered one as well.
On a side note, can anyone recommend a decent torque wrench? Not Harbor freight, but not Snap On either?
AZSUNDEVIL
08-08-12, 22:07
Precision Instruments and Proto are two higher-tier companies that make fantastic torque wrenches without the price premium of a Snap-On.
http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC2FR100F-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000KL59LY/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y
http://www.amazon.com/Foot-Pound-Ratchet-Torque-Wrenches/dp/B002FCH8XI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344481393&sr=8-2&keywords=proto+torque+wrench
like this, the clamshell I first got wouldn't fit the vltor
http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/1244/picture0039ik.jpg
Not to argue with IG'z, he surely has more experience than I do, but VLTOR uppers and LH Stag uppers are the reasons I didn't buy the clamshell.
To me, the pic I posted earlier and a setup like the one above are a perfectly good/universal way to go. I do have a torque wrench and do use it when I build uppers. The fixture didn't move when I torqued mine to 50 ft/lb with this:
http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ASH556/IMG_8095.jpg
Does anyone know if the Brownells clamshell will fit a Larue Stealth upper?
Thanks
Nick
DirectDrive
01-11-13, 13:27
Not familiar with that upper.
The Brownells clamshell is very well made but is primarily for forged A1/A2 and A4/M4 (flat top) upper receivers.
If that Larue is billet, it may not fit.
For billet the Spikes Block Worx is a good choice.
I just got one from Grant. Its a fantastic tool. The blocks are going to be resting in the tool box now.
Not to be an arse...but can someone post up the Geissele Reaction Rod in action? I'm considering going this route seeing as how I'll be finishing this 6.8 and 5.56 build in the near and present future.
Not to be an arse...but can someone post up the Geissele Reaction Rod in action? I'm considering going this route seeing as how I'll be finishing this 6.8 and 5.56 build in the near and present future.
Grant posted a video link in the Geissele Reaction Rod thread.
This one is a decent deal and I like that the insert for the upper allows you to check alignment of the gas tube.
http://images.amazon.com/images/G/01/richmedia/images/cover.gif
http://www.botachtactical.com/wharupviblcl.html
Jake
Packing a 45
03-23-13, 16:42
Do you understand that he asking about changing his muzzle device, not his barrel extension?
That piece of crap is second (maybe third) on the "avoid at all cost" list of Brownells tools.
This list where can I get it I want it, I need it, haven't seen it before. Please. Packing Serious
Can you translate this into English?
This list where can I get it I want it, I need it, haven't seen it before. Please. Packing Serious
+1 for the clamshell from Brownells. I have changed literally thousands of A1, A2, and M4 barrels over the last 20 years and never ever had an issue getting old barrels off or new barrels on straight and correctly torqued.
This one is a decent deal and I like that the insert for the upper allows you to check alignment of the gas tube.
http://www.botachtactical.com/wharupviblcl.html
Jake
This is the one I was going to suggest. That alignment pin is really nice. I used it on two builds yesterday. The price is really good also. Only works on standard profile receivers though of course.
I know you ate looking at upper receiver clamps but have you considered a different approach to the same end, such as the brownell's http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/ar-15-m16-308-ar-barrel-extension-torque-tools-prod27452.aspx
Not too much more money and no modifications needed for unusual uppers such as VLTR MUR ot billets.
mark
i bought something like this one http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/bench-vise-blocks/ar-15-m16-upper-receiver-action-block-prod22385.aspx i still havent got a chance to use it and i plan on getting the DPMS one you were using but ill try to keep away from DPMS sytle when doing barrel nut.
Packing a 45
03-24-13, 22:12
Can you translate this into English?
Post 29 by MK18 Piolet says "That piece of crap is second (mabe third) on the "avoid at all cost"[B]LIST of Brownells tools. This is the LIST. Packing
Packing a 45
03-24-13, 22:15
Can you translate this into English?
Post 89. Packing
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