KAC URX Uninstall??? HELP

[payj]

Hello,

I am trying to take mine off so I can install the new 3.1 rail. I have the tool, yet when I go to take it off it is on there sooo tight it will not budge. I have taken a heat gun to it as well with no effect. The barrel nut is getting chewed up too. You can feel the spring in the metal too if you torque it to much.

Any one take these off have any hints? I am stuck :confused:

Thanks!

[Rattlehead]

The barrel nut is getting chewed up too.

Send it off to somebody else (i.e. - Operationparts, Lawmens) before you permanently damage anything. If this is on a stock KAC SR15 upper, the barrel nuts can be on quite tight.

If you do not want to send the upper off and you simply cannot get it off yourself, you may want to look into getting a KAC vice jaw. They are expensive, however if you are planning on working with URX builds a lot/in the future, then they make things a whole lot easier.

[bp7178]

More heat. I was in the exact same place. Ended up buying a new barrel nut.

I ended up placing the upper in the oven to heat it. Its not that the heating has to be blazing hot as much as throughly heating it. Loctite will start to smoke slightly when it breaks down under heat. The barrel nut is loctited on, as is the rail which is screwed onto the receiver.

There are alternatives to the URX vise jaws which work great for a fraction of the cost. YHM machine makes one as does PRI.

[payj]

Thank you for the advice. I am going to take it to my gunsmith buddy on Monday. In the mean time I heated it up with a torch and put some kroil in the thread area hoping between now and Monday it would help loosen things up....

At what temp did you place it in the oven and for how long? If it won't come loose for him I will tell him to stick it in the oven.

thx

[bp7178]

Degrease the heck out of it before you put it in the oven. Extra oil makes a big smoky mess.

I did 300 for 15 minutes. As soon as a little smoke is produced from where the joint is it turned right off.

A heat gun can work, provided they are hot enough.

[coldblue]

More heat. I was in the exact same place. Ended up buying a new barrel nut.

I ended up placing the upper in the oven to heat it. Its not that the heating has to be blazing hot as much as throughly heating it. Loctite will start to smoke slightly when it breaks down under heat. The barrel nut is loctited on, as is the rail which is screwed onto the receiver.

There are alternatives to the URX vise jaws which work great for a fraction of the cost. YHM machine makes one as does PRI.

Wrong: "...There are alternatives to the URX vise jaws which work great for a fraction of the cost. YHM machine makes one as does PRI..."
Not for a tight diassembly as described above. Others may allow a decent install at minimum torque, but you need KAC's for disassembly (and more heat). "Tearing up" the factory barrel nut is an indicator that heat (from a heat gun) was not applied long enough.

[bp7178]

KAC vise jaws (used at the factory) sure didn't prevent my rail from being installed canted from the factory. I couldn't even slide my PRI clamp over it so it bridges from the upper to the rail.

The heating of the Loctite seems to be the issue combined with the soft material of the barrel nut. If the Loctite isn't heated enough the barrel nut is what is going to give. I didn't have a problem with the upper and the rail system twisting when attempting to remove the barrel nut, just the aluminium barrel nut giving against the steel barrel nut tool.

More heat fixed the problem.

[the_1iviper]

more heat was my answer , but the kac vise jaws sure would have been nice ;)