Removing extractor w/o-ring

[jhs1969]

I seem to remember a tread with different tips on removing an extractor with the increased tension of an o-ring but I can't seem to find it.

I had the thought of using a small hose clamp, any other suggestions or tips?

If you would like to include any other tips or tricks feel free.

[MrSmitty]

I just squeeze real good where the extractor pivots on the pin and push the pin through, never had an issue.

[krisjon]

None of mine are that tough to remove even with an o-ring and Sprinco extractor springs. And in most cases, you don't even need the o-ring (tons of discussion on this).

I guess you could always try something like vise-grips wrapped in a rag (but obviously not over-tightened so much that it mars the bolt surface) to pinch things down enough and push the pin through freely.

IraqGunz is the guy to ask. He's encountered everything and I'm sure has shop tricks.

[tfltackdriver]

I guess you could always try something like vise-grips wrapped it a rag (but obviously not over-tightened so much that it mars the bolt surface) to pinch things down enough and push the pin through freely.



This.

[E-man930]

Start eating your Wheaties...

[Iraqgunz]

Generally speaking I am against O-rings. If there is that much tension that you cannot remove it with a small punch then chances are your extractor tension is too much.

[PA PATRIOT]

Generally speaking I am against O-rings. If there is that much tension that you cannot remove it with a small punch then chances are your extractor tension is too much.

Same discussion came up when I was speaking with a long time Colt Defense armorer who was also against the use of extractor rings saying most owners doing home up-grades are placing to much tension on the extractor.

He also stated that a stock spring and proper insert is the way to go unless your having issues and then at most he recommended just bumping the spring to a Wolf Extra Power and if that does not clear up the problem then a certified armorer should inspect the rifle.

[Clint]

If there is that much tension that you cannot remove it with a small punch then chances are your extractor tension is too much.

Agree.

Too much tension to remove is TOO much.

However, I have not found a proper oring + rifle spring to be difficult to remove.

[jhs1969]

Generally speaking I am against O-rings. If there is that much tension that you cannot remove it with a small punch then chances are your extractor tension is too much.

This is my worry, however the manufacture's "fix" on my carbine appears to have been installing an O-ring, which has worked so far. I can't tell anything else was done to it but an O-ring certainly was, I'm not very pleased with having to rely on an O-ring, I have a few other ideas I want to try and get away from it.

[Iraqgunz]

Who added the O-ring and what was the reasoning? Remember that the O-ring came around as part of a complete mod to the bolts to include the ejector spring.


This is my worry, however the manufacture's "fix" on my carbine appears to have been installing an O-ring, which has worked so far. I can't tell anything else was done to it but an O-ring certainly was, I'm not very pleased with having to rely on an O-ring, I have a few other ideas I want to try and get away it.

[Kodiak]

I just squeeze real good where the extractor pivots on the pin and push the pin through, never had an issue.

+1

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[Reagans Rascals]

IIRC, I believe the O-Ring was initially added as gas systems became shorter and shorter, deviating from Mr. Stoner's original rifle length system. This caused over-gassing, which leads to less than optimal, earlier extraction times, and extraction is attempted before the case has had time to cool and shrink, and is still pressurized against the chamber to a certain extent, which leads to a harder force being required to basically "RIP" the case out... thus you have the O-ring supplying much more pressure on the extractor...

just what I have pieced together..... YMMV

I believe this can be solved without the need of the O-Ring though, by playing around with gas port sizes and different lengths, such as using a larger port on a mid-length system... or using newer systems like the Noveske Switch Block or LMT's Enhanced BCG... I don't believe the KAC E3 line uses a factory O-ring setup... and that is basically regarded as the top of the tippity top...

basically the O-ring is there as a band-aid... it doesn't fix the issue... I'd rather fix the issue once and for all, than worry about a possible, however unlikely, failure down the road... sort of like using stop leak in your radiator... it may mask it, but the problem is still there.... or perhaps like brown baggin that ugly chick you used call at wee hours in the night... eventually that bag is gonna tear.. and that ugly face is gonna be staring right back at you...

to the OP's original question... I have used locking vice grips with some success... same with smaller C-clamps or a bench vice... this issue is exponentially harder on HK91/CETME bolts..... but they sell a cheap tool for CETME's for exactly that

[jhs1969]

Who added the O-ring and what was the reasoning? Remember that the O-ring came around as part of a complete mod to the bolts to include the ejector spring.

PM sent.