PDA

View Full Version : Pistons and Buffers



bluecanary
06-10-12, 19:47
I'm wondering if my piston carbine is over gassed. ( Make withheld for now.). Numerous FTF and FTE. Some time I even have to use the forward assist.

I'm going to try a heavier buffer. the factory installed is the no marked one....NOW they sell it with "H", Hmmm. Since it is a piston and a carbine, I'm thinking H2.

Can people chime in with which buffers are in their pistons? thanks.

Colt?
LMT?
LWRC?
Adams?

BufordTJustice
06-10-12, 20:14
If you have a CMMG, you probably have a tight chamber as well. A heavier buffer will not fix a tight chamber. I recommend an h2 if your gun will run it. Also look st a springco blue recoil spring.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Epic 4G Touch

BufordTJustice
06-10-12, 20:15
Also, invest in a BCM extractor kit. $5 well spent.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Epic 4G Touch

ffhounddog
06-10-12, 20:36
2 LWRC M6A1s and I use the Factory supplied H2 buffer and the factory carbine spring.

The_War_Wagon
06-10-12, 20:51
Former POF-415 owner. I ran an H2 with mine. Was about to switch to Seth Harness's custom piston buffer, when I sold the rifle.

Black extractor insert helps. Mine came with a blue insert.

The_War_Wagon
06-10-12, 20:52
I also ran Dave Tubb's SSS flatwire buffer spring, too.

bluecanary
06-10-12, 22:36
If you have a CMMG, you probably have a tight chamber as well. A heavier buffer will not fix a tight chamber. I recommend an h2 if your gun will run it. Also look st a springco blue recoil spring.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Epic 4G Touch

Sprinco's site recommends the red one for pistons. Will the blue one handle it?

BufordTJustice
06-11-12, 00:14
I own every single springco spring. The blue is fine. The difference between the blue and the white is much bigger as compared to the difference between the blue and the red.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Epic 4G Touch

VIP3R 237
06-11-12, 00:21
my experiences (lmt, ruger, pws) are that almost all piston ar's are over gassed. Generally on a 16" an H2 buffer or better yet an A5 system do help.

BufordTJustice
06-11-12, 00:27
my experiences (lmt, ruger, pws) are that almost all piston ar's are over gassed. Generally on a 16" an H2 buffer or better yet an A5 system do help.

Agreed. The A5 system is what I run on all my carbines. It had no current peer for smoothness. The A5H3 or A5H4 heavy buffers would be right up your alley. Maybe coupled with a springco green spring, depending on how over gassed your gun is. Plenty if info on the A5 system by vltor here via the orange search button.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Epic 4G Touch

thisaway
06-11-12, 09:07
I use an H3 with my Adams carbine-length kit.

bluecanary
06-11-12, 16:38
Thanks. You guys are a great help.

bluecanary
06-27-12, 12:53
Got to shoot my buddy's AA upper. I had an H2 buffer and "blue" action spring in my lower. The brass were coming out at the 2 O'Clock position. Nice and easy. Kinda "Looping" out rather than rocketing. Does this sound ok? Opinions?

Mrs_Esterhouse
08-29-13, 01:23
Got to shoot my buddy's AA upper. I had an H2 buffer and "blue" action spring in my lower. The brass were coming out at the 2 O'Clock position. Nice and easy. Kinda "Looping" out rather than rocketing. Does this sound ok? Opinions?

http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz211/Quentin68/ARejectionpattern.jpg

Iraqgunz
08-29-13, 01:35
Wow, thanks for posting that. This thread is well over a year old and this chart has been seen many times over. Pretty sure the OP doesn't care at this point.


http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz211/Quentin68/ARejectionpattern.jpg

JSantoro
08-29-13, 07:52
...besides which, that stupid thing is like listing random symptoms to hypocondriacs, whether they actually have those symptoms; they go nuts thinking they have Ebola, when there's nothing wrong with them.

The part that's ALWAYS missing is the background info required for that chart to be used as the tool it's meant to be: "if X symptom/condition/malfunction exists, AND one's brass is exiting to Y, then and only then may you consider fiddle-f**king with some part on the gun, here's which one to look at first."

You need something to be acting hinky FIRST; stoppages and malfunctions; some form of "gun don't work." That diagram is meant to be a part of a troubleshooting string, it's not a Check Engine light.

If the gun's functioning fine....by all means, use that chart so you can tell your buddies how you put a stop to that nonsense....:rolleyes: