View Full Version : Free float installation
merder inc
06-16-12, 07:54
I have moderate gun work experience, built a couple 10/22's, 1911 beavertail install, misc AR work. Is installing a free float quad rail something I should attempt myself? The only barrel related work I have done has been to remove front sight and enlarge gas port under the instruction of my out-of-town armorer. I have access to the wrench, vise blocks etc. but nothing I have attempted before. I know there are youtube videos, various opinions on torque settings etc out there so I wanted to get some opinions on here of whether it should be left to a pro or not. Mid-length, standard front sight, pre-ban.
While we are on the subject...difficulty of replacing front sign/gas block with low-pro/rail option?
I recently installed one for the first time and it was not difficult. I also cut down the FSB so I could keep it pinned.
Just make sure you have the proper tools like receiver blocks, vise, torque wrench, and barrel nut wrenches and you'll be fine
PS it was a DD RIS II
Centurion Arms C4 installs without having to removed the barrel nut, just need a Dremel and snips.
It depends on what particular rail you are looking to install, some are very simple such as the centurion arms, other are more challenging and have specific wrenches you must have such as daniel defense.
fortunately we live in the technology age and information is readily available.
gunfighter48
06-16-12, 14:05
I just installed a MI 2 piece free float quad rail handguard last week. All I had to do was use a dremel tool to cut off the delta ring, spring pack, and snap ring. Then I cleaned up the area so there were no metal particles on the gun. Then all I had to do was put the 2 halve on the existing barrel nut and screw the two halves together. Took about 15 minutes from start to finish. There are YouTube videos that show how to install a number of these type of handguards. You can do it no problem!
I did install a low profile gas block as I wanted to keep my front sight for future use. But that only took 20 minutes or so, most of the time was making sure it lined up correctly.
I installed a MI G2 SS free float on my AR with no issues. Like what previous posters have said, as long as you have the right tools, it’s pretty easy. The MI rail uses a proprietary barrel nut. If you were to install a rail that uses the standard GI barrel nut (Troy Alpha rail comes to mind) it would be even easier.
As for a low profile gas block, I'd just shave down the FSB.
merder inc
07-01-12, 08:55
Very good advice, I just completed the installation this weekend with great results. I ended up drifting out the taper pins on the FSB and removing to go with a quad rail that replaced the barrel nut. The pins took quite a bit of force to get out but I soaked overnight with Fluid Film then drifted them flush with a hand sledge and an oversize punch then they came right out. Definitely advise making sure you have all the right tools such as a FSB bench block; makes the taper pin process so much easier.
After seeing one in person I went with a UTG pro quad rail. Not a fan of most UTG stuff but they now have some higher end items that are US made and you can tell machined and not cast mfg. really outstanding quality. They must be trying to reach to a new client base.
Thanks for the help!
I installed a MI G2 SS free float on my AR with no issues. Like what previous posters have said, as long as you have the right tools, it’s pretty easy. The MI rail uses a proprietary barrel nut. If you were to install a rail that uses the standard GI barrel nut (Troy Alpha rail comes to mind) it would be even easier.
As for a low profile gas block, I'd just shave down the FSB.
Why is a standard barrel nut easier?
Why is a standard barrel nut easier?
I said that assuming that the OP had an upper that was already build, and had a factory barrel nut. Sorry I should have clarified that.
If the OP has the standard barrel nut it is would be easier because all he has to do is remove/ grind the FSB and just slide the rail on. This is easier as opposed to removing the barrel nut, and then retiming the new barrel nut appropriately.
I have moderate gun work experience, built a couple 10/22's, 1911 beavertail install, misc AR work. Is installing a free float quad rail something I should attempt myself? The only barrel related work I have done has been to remove front sight and enlarge gas port under the instruction of my out-of-town armorer. I have access to the wrench, vise blocks etc. but nothing I have attempted before. I know there are youtube videos, various opinions on torque settings etc out there so I wanted to get some opinions on here of whether it should be left to a pro or not. Mid-length, standard front sight, pre-ban.
While we are on the subject...difficulty of replacing front sign/gas block with low-pro/rail option?
Which free-float do you have in mind? I have done four builds, each has a free floated barrel.
I have used the Troy TRX and the Centurion Arm, C4 for "standard" free float rails. Between the two, I'd get the Centurion. If you don't want to cut or remove the delta ring and spring or are worried about removing the barrel, etc. then the Vltor CASV is a plug and play setup.
The Omega wouldve been another drop in option. He went with a UTG.
I said that assuming that the OP had an upper that was already build, and had a factory barrel nut. Sorry I should have clarified that.
If the OP has the standard barrel nut it is would be easier because all he has to do is remove/ grind the FSB and just slide the rail on. This is easier as opposed to removing the barrel nut, and then retiming the new barrel nut appropriately.
That makes sense, and I agree. If it is a pre assembled upper that would be the easy route for sure.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.