View Full Version : What is the best way to get burnt on powder off of a stainless gun?
SW-Shooter
06-22-12, 13:14
I purchased a supposedly lightly used Ruger GP100 stainless, off of someone that hadn't properly cleaned the gun after firing some dirty, dirty ammunition.
I've pulled out some cleaners but they aren't making a dent. I need something with some serious power that won't damage the finish.
Thanks
TriumphRat675
06-22-12, 13:50
Where is the powder? If what you are talking about is around the forcing cone and front of the cylinder, in my experience a toothbrush, cleaning cloths and regular solvent will get rid of the caked-on buildup. If it is just carbon staining, don't worry about it. You will just muck it up again the next time you shoot it and it will drive you nuts until you decide not to care.
If you really want to get carbon staining off and start fresh, a lead-away cloth will do the trick fairly quickly, but IIRC you will want to use it sparingly because it is mildly abrasive.
SW-Shooter
06-22-12, 14:35
Actually it is more burnt on. Simple gun cleaning isn't working.
Hogsgunwild
06-22-12, 16:11
Lead Wipes used to be an excellent product. I have not bought any in years so I do not know if they still make it. I have used green brillo type pads around the forcing cone as well as brushes and solvents. Works well.
If it is for around the cylinder, you may have to rub the whole cylinder eventually just to even out the brushed look.
A Birchwood Casey Lead Remover Cloth will get the carbon buildup off of the gun. You'll need to put a little muscle into it, but it works.
Use this: http://www.flitz.com/p-48-gunknife-care-kit.aspx
Believe it or not, a pencil eraser will work surprisingly well in removing baked-on carbon.
Flitz works. I think there are new bio friendly flea nears out there now that are more effective.
SW-Shooter
06-23-12, 18:37
Very good responses, off to buy some pencils. Flitz will have to be off of the internet.:blink:
hunter_usmc
06-23-12, 18:49
Stainless steel pot scrubbers, not the galvanized ones they will leave a gray streak on the finish.I use the stainless steel scrubbers on my blued C&R guns and the pot scrubbers work great to take carbon, staining and surface rust
anachronism
06-23-12, 18:50
Remclean & a stiff nylon brush.
hunter_usmc
06-23-12, 18:54
A little more info you can go to Brownells and buy gun scrubber/cleaning pads for $14.00 or get the same thing (Stainless steel pot scrubbers) at the dollar store
RB-17 was what I used to use on my J frame. Apply and let sit for 20 minutes. Then clean like normal. The ammonia in it stinks to high hell but it cleans very well.
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I have found that "Pink Pearl" brand erasers [ not just pink erasers ] work best for getting most, if not all, of the carbon off. You can get them at Office Depot, Staples, Ofc Max, etc. They work real well in the corners. After I've removed most of the carbon with the eraser I use Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish. It makes the SS look like new.
Why not just use the Mothers polish, you might ask? I found, for me, the carbon is removed easier if I first use the eraser. The process is quick and easy. The Mothers will also keep your Stainless Steel as bright as you want it to be.
M-Pro 7 gun cleaner used to use a picture of a revolver cylinder with what I think you are describing you are trying to get off (as a before shot). The after shot (photo) makes the gun look new.
I have not tried it on that sort of thing but that is what they were claiming in their promo literature.
If you try it, "Hoppes Elite" gun cleaner (must be ELITE, not just HOPPES) is basically the same stuff as M-Pro 7, made by the same people but sold under Hoppes name and marketed to sportsmen and target shooters instead of the police/military/hunters of M-Pro 7.
Wal Mart (used to) carries/carry Hoppes Elite if you wanted to try it out on it.
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I use the lead away cloths on the cylinder faces,especially if there is any lead,but it removes carbon build up nicely.
I wrap them around a small block and go lightly until it's cleaned
I just got a new one after years of using the old one.It had been in the gunshop for years and the dealer just gave it to me.It was not dried out as he expected it might be.I'll give him the five bucks next time I go in.
A Birchwood Casey Lead Remover Cloth will get the carbon buildup off of the gun. You'll need to put a little muscle into it, but it works.
This. Just don't use it on a blued gun unless you also want to remove the finish.
Okie John
0000 steel wool works pretty well on the stainless steel....it should remove the powder build up
I use a copper bristle brush. It doesn’t mess up the finish as it's softer than the stainless steel but it still gets the staining off quite well.
I use a copper bristle brush. It doesn’t mess up the finish as it's softer than the stainless steel but it still gets the staining off quite well.
That's what I do. I was looking at my revolvers and realized I didn't clean two of them and they had that staining. It came off easily with a little WD40 and the brush.
I read this thread with interest as I don’t own any stainless guns, but am considering one. After reading this thread, I went to YouTube and typed in “cleaning stainless revolvers” in the search bar and came up with a bunch of good videos. Even one by hickock45. Some showing what has been discussed here, and other solutions that work. Worth watching some of them.
That's what I do. I was looking at my revolvers and realized I didn't clean two of them and they had that staining. It came off easily with a little WD40 and the brush.
I hate it when I find guns that I haven’t cleaned :)
M-FOURTEEN
07-22-12, 10:54
Funnily enough, the pencil trick does work. Don't leave home for the range without those American Standard No. 2's!!
Very good responses, off to buy some pencils. Flitz will have to be off of the internet.:blink:
Any update, SW-Shooter?
SW-Shooter
07-23-12, 16:57
Any update, SW-Shooter?
Flitz and a Dremel made short work of all of the nasty black stuff. I bout a variety of different non Dremel end tips off of amazon.com and they really helped get into the crack and crevices. I'll get pics up withing the week.
Flitz and a Dremel made short work of all of the nasty black stuff. I bout a variety of different non Dremel end tips off of amazon.com and they really helped get into the crack and crevices. I'll get pics up withing the week.
Very nice. Thanks for the update.
chasetopher
07-23-12, 22:33
I've had good luck with brake parts cleaner on a Q-tip for cleaning stainless.
Just make sure to keep it off of painted areas its a pretty nasty solvent.
A Birchwood Casey Lead Remover Cloth will get the carbon buildup off of the gun. You'll need to put a little muscle into it, but it works.
I use these for the cylinder of my S&W 686, works like a charm. I also use them for my AK chromed gas tube. When I had an AUG, they were the easiest way to get carbon of the gas regulator tube. They smell bad but work great.
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