View Full Version : Ok guys, school me on steel S&W snubnose revolvers
My 642 broke its hammer pin. I dry fired the crap out of it, live fired the crap out of it, and apparently that did it in. I emailed smith, i have no doubt they will take care of me. This is not a rant about that...
So, I've concluded from this experience that since my daily carry is heavily reliant on a snubby, that I should have 2.
A 100% practical guy would run out and buy a second 642. I'm not quite that guy.
So I'm thinking a model 36, which i will probably bob the hammer on. (or install a bobbed hammer) This gun will be shot much and carried little. The 642 will still get the majority of my carry use. That said I'd like it to fit in my j-frame holsters-destantis nemesis pocket holster and a sideguard tuck clip (shouldnt' be a problem) Also would like one with no lock.
So what are the good years to get? Should i just buy a brand new one? I'd like to keep it ~400 dollars.
I've got several J frames and am a big fan of them. Your looking for a 36-7. They were the last ones made on the old style frame before the magnum frame change. They are no lock and have all tool steel parts. They were the first to be factory rated for +P use. They were the first to be upgraded to the 1/8 inch wide front sight and coresponding rear sight notch like the current production snubbies. They were made from around 1990-1995/'96. '96 was the change to MIM parts and the magnum frame. If you decide on stainless the 60-7 was the same as the 36-7. Early ones came with the orginal style wood grips then in '94 they started shipping with the Uncle Mikes rubber boot grips.
You can also always try to find a no dash 640 which has the same upgrades mentioned above and is identical to you 642 but all stainless. I have two and will never get rid of them.
I've got several J frames and am a big fan of them. Your looking for a 36-7. They were the last ones made on the old style frame before the magnum frame change. They are no lock and have all tool steel parts. They were the first to be factory rated for +P use. They were the first to be upgraded to the 1/8 inch wide front sight and coresponding rear sight notch like the current production snubbies. They were made from around 1990-1995/'96. '96 was the change to MIM parts and the magnum frame. If you decide on stainless the 60-7 was the same as the 36-7. Early ones came with the orginal style wood grips then in '94 they started shipping with the Uncle Mikes rubber boot grips.
You can also always try to find a no dash 640 which has the same upgrades mentioned above and is identical to you 642 but all stainless. I have two and will never get rid of them.
cool thanks for the help!
I've got several J frames and am a big fan of them. Your looking for a 36-7. They were the last ones made on the old style frame before the magnum frame change. They are no lock and have all tool steel parts. They were the first to be factory rated for +P use. They were the first to be upgraded to the 1/8 inch wide front sight and coresponding rear sight notch like the current production snubbies. They were made from around 1990-1995/'96. '96 was the change to MIM parts and the magnum frame. If you decide on stainless the 60-7 was the same as the 36-7. Early ones came with the orginal style wood grips then in '94 they started shipping with the Uncle Mikes rubber boot grips.
You can also always try to find a no dash 640 which has the same upgrades mentioned above and is identical to you 642 but all stainless. I have two and will never get rid of them.
I wholeheartedly agree. The 60-7 and no-dash 640 were the best of the all-steel J-frames. You need one of each ;). FWIW my 640 wears the Uncle Mikes it came with; my 60-7 is a "Ladysmith" with its original smooth rosewood grips with a Tyler-T.
ETA: both these guns have the firing pin on the hammer, and I've seen reports of people having some difficulty finding replacement noses. You might want to use snap caps when dry-firing these.
I currently have two 640 no dashes, a 60-7, a 36-7, and one each new production no lock 642-1 and 442-1. All are wearing Uncle Mikes boot grips except my newest, the 442, since I'm out of them and had to use a Hogue Bantam grip so speedloaders would work. I like the new rubber grips S&W is using but they will not work with HKS, Safariland, or S.L. Variant speedloaders. Thats a no-go for me.
I'm really liking my new 640 "Pro Series".
No lock, Trijicon night sights, cut for moon-clips.
I added a Apex trigger kit and some Crimson Trace 405 laser grips and it's about as perfect of a steel J-frame as can be found IMO.
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p82/JodyHuggins/photobucket-27261-1340637650893.jpg
anachronism
06-25-12, 10:45
I'd look at a 640, or even a 649 all steel gun to use for a training/practice gun, and leave the 642 for carry. You'll be able to have almost unlimited practice with the steel guns, while reducing the wear & tear on the 642.
I'd look at a 640, or even a 649 all steel gun to use for a training/practice gun, and leave the 642 for carry. You'll be able to have almost unlimited practice with the steel guns, while reducing the wear & tear on the 642.
Will those fit a 642 holster?
I'll add another recommendation for a 640, similar to the 642 but all stainless. I think the current model is a slightly longer barrel and .357 Mag but you may be able to find an older model if you want an identical setup.
Will those fit a 642 holster?
Any of the all-steel 38 special J-frames will fit in a 642 holster, unless the holster has a retention strap that wraps around the area where the hammer would be, in which case you're limited to the 640. Most of the .357 variants will fit *most* holsters, but you may run into issues with some models--e.g. the 640-1 with the 2-1/4" barrel and full underlug (like the one pictured above)--or some kydex holsters that won't accommodate the longer .357 cylinder.
I'm gonna have to check one of those 640's out.....
Another option in the 940, a 9mm S&W snub, although they are pricey.
brushy bill
06-26-12, 21:09
I'm really liking my new 640 "Pro Series".
No lock, Trijicon night sights, cut for moon-clips.
I added a Apex trigger kit and some Crimson Trace 405 laser grips and it's about as perfect of a steel J-frame as can be found IMO.
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p82/JodyHuggins/photobucket-27261-1340637650893.jpg
Would you mind posting a left side photo?
So ugly it is beautiful, the Model 49 Bodyguard, just like this one with a Tyler T-Grip. The shrouded hammer, although "humpbacked ugly", is sweeeeeet, and practical. They are steel, old, bomb proof, and can be had at a good price. also available as an airweight, although the model number eludes me at the moment, even though I own both models.
http://www.americanrifleman.org/GalleryItem.aspx?cid=22&gid=133&id=1158
anybody pocket carrying a 640 pro?
SpankMonkey
06-27-12, 20:20
I pocket carry a no dash 640 with no issues. Best snub nosed you can get.
David Thomas
06-27-12, 22:11
I love the model 36. My favorite j frame is a 37 with a bobbed hammer.
A 36 can be had for around $200. I bought mine for $250 from a member here.
The old humpback bodyguard is a great option also that can be obtained for very little money relatively speaking.
how much less likely do you guys suppose the 640 is to an internal failure (hammer pin) like i experienced? Honestly i dry fired the crap out of this gun in attempt to gain proficiency (which worked)..
I'm thinking i should probably just pick up a second identical 642 and fire it 200 times and just carry it.
the 600+ bucks i'd spend on a 640 doesn't seem like it would net me too much benefit over a second 642...
David Thomas
06-28-12, 00:38
how much less likely do you guys suppose the 640 is to an internal failure (hammer pin) like i experienced? Honestly i dry fired the crap out of this gun in attempt to gain proficiency (which worked)..
I'm thinking i should probably just pick up a second identical 642 and fire it 200 times and just carry it.
the 600+ bucks i'd spend on a 640 doesn't seem like it would net me too much benefit over a second 642...
I am not sure anyone could answer your question, I know I can't.
Taking economy and value into account it is hard to argue against the 442 for around $350-$375 unless you go the used route for a 36 or 39.
I am not sure anyone could answer your question, I know I can't.
Taking economy and value into account it is hard to argue against the 442 for around $350-$375 unless you go the used route for a 36 or 39.
yeah i think that's the way I'm going to go... though the 640 pro sure is sexy.....
alright who wants to sell me a 640 pro at the end of august?
SpankMonkey
06-29-12, 21:45
alright who wants to sell me a 640 pro at the end of august?
You should be able to find one. They are showing up in stores.
Would you mind posting a left side photo?
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p82/JodyHuggins/photobucket-1102-1341263504026.jpg
brushy bill
07-04-12, 20:30
Thanks Jody H. I think I need to pick one of these up. This is one nice looking pistol.
one of my primary carry guns is a smith 36 from the 1960's. other than perhaps pocket carry my opinion is the airweight guns don't make a ton (no pun intended) of difference when carrying but the steel guns definitely feel better on the range, and you should practice with your primary carry, and if the slightly heavier all steel snubby encourages this then good. I carry in an Alessi ankle holster and don't find the weight of the steel gun objectionable at all. And as far as snubbies not being accurate (again the all steel versions help here) I have no problem hitting an IDPA type target with my snubby at 100 yards, and keeping 7-10 yard rapidly fired groups at under two inches.
not sure anyone really gives a crap but I figured i should update this thread with my decision...
sent my 642 to smith, they replaced the frame. took ~2 weeks. looks great, they fitted my cylinder and barrel and internals to the new frame.
in the meantime i came across a walther PPS for 459 bucks. So i bought that. I got a 6 round magazine and a pocket holster for it the day i got my revolver back.
so far the revolver is still getting the majority of my pocket carry (much easier and more discreet at work). I think once school starts up I'll probably carry the walther more, as i'd like to have the sights and greater capacity in that environment. I could simply pack a pocket holster to transition from IWB to pocket carry when i go to work.
i am glad to have 2 pocketable guns though, i think that's kind of a must since my current situation requires a lot of pocket carry.
SpankMonkey
07-28-12, 09:00
not sure anyone really gives a crap but I figured i should update this thread with my decision...
sent my 642 to smith, they replaced the frame. took ~2 weeks. looks great, they fitted my cylinder and barrel and internals to the new frame.
in the meantime i came across a walther PPS for 459 bucks. So i bought that. I got a 6 round magazine and a pocket holster for it the day i got my revolver back.
so far the revolver is still getting the majority of my pocket carry (much easier and more discreet at work). I think once school starts up I'll probably carry the walther more, as i'd like to have the sights and greater capacity in that environment. I could simply pack a pocket holster to transition from IWB to pocket carry when i go to work.
i am glad to have 2 pocketable guns though, i think that's kind of a must since my current situation requires a lot of pocket carry.
That's very cool of Smith. What model 642 did you have?
That's very cool of Smith. What model 642 did you have?
just a basic 642-1 no lock. stainless, aluminum frame 38+p
I carry the model 60 in the 2" barrel and the 3 " barrel. they are both have a nice smooth trigger, the little guy is accurate to 25 ft. the 3" I have no problem out to about 50 ft. I also have a 642 the is my dress up gun. It is also a darn good shooter. I wanted to add that my 60 with the 3" barrel has adjustable rear sight and a rised front sight.
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