I'm gonna paint um, Krylon or Alumihide?

[Hootiewho]

Krylon
or
Alumihide?





Thanks
-Hootie

[RD62]

I've never tried the Krylon. But I have used the Alumahide. The Alumahide has worked well, and has been durable for me. No baking. The Krylon is probably cheaper and easier to get. I can't comment on the Krylon's long-term durability.


-RD62

[sgtlmj]

You can always take Krylon off with some chemicals and a little elbow grease. If you ever want to change patterns or sell your object, Krylon is the way to go.

[septic-tank13]

i use duracoat primarily. however, alumahyde II has proven to work very well. i was never a krylon fan, because when i paint something up i intend for it to stay or be painted over.

if you're thinking you'll remove the paint someday krylon is the ticket. however, i can tell you with the trend in cleaning products with those like "wipe out" and others coming on strong, many strip the krylong right off and if you don't remove the residue, paint won't stick well in the future.

for a DIYer i'd say the alumahyde II is your scene as long as you want it to last a bit.

hope this helps.

-ST13

[Hawkeye]

I have used Alumahyde II and Krylon, and have seen a number of others in person. There isnt a finish out there that is "forever" and wont chip, scratch, etc. That all said, I still prefer Krylon for do it yourself jobs. Its easier to work with than Alumahyde II is, and easy to touch up if need be. I have had some krylon'ed guns that have seen a lot of training use, and in an out of the truck every day, and other than wear spots on high points, they still look fine.

Right at 3 years on this one..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/Hawkeye1/Guns/Miad1.jpg


Just over a year on this one..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/Hawkeye1/Guns/Truck5.jpg


Wear marks are mainly around the magwell, etc..

[Edward Hogan]

I have been amazed at how the Krylon Camouflage paint goes on sort of wet and runny but dries perfect. I tend to think projects to death and then get the bug to get after it and wow, Krylon is a great performer.

Wish I could get the stuff in bulk. I have an airbrush I want to get proficient with but can't get the paint.

For painting barrels etc, I am really impressed with Rustoleum's rust converter in black. Real nice covering even on smooth stainless and more durable than other paints.

[Iraq Ninja]

Even airsofters know that krylon is the way to go, for tactical applications. The others often have a glossy finish, unlike the nice flat krylon finish.

There is a good reason why Krylon is the paint of choice over here in the sandbox, and why nobody is trying to get duracoat....

[jmart]

I've been looking into this lately. Duracoat offers a lot more colors, including Foliage Green. Alumahyde-II doesn't. Duracoat also goes on any surface -- metal, plastic, composite, you name it.

Duracoat admits right up front, the thicker you apply it, the greater the gloss. But Duracoat also sells an additive to knock the sheen back, this is mixed in with the color during application, it's not a separate top coat. I haven't seen it first hand, but I'm going to ask my coater to include this additive to better match E-Modstock stock and TD Battlegrip sheen.

[septic-tank13]

you can mix and apply duracoat as dull or as shiny as you want. it is a superior finish to all those we've discussed. it requires some specific knowledge, clean dry air, and a means to regulate psi and volume to apply it. not to mention a spray gun.

as far as a quick easy means to camo something up the krylon would be my second choice and the alumahyde II for my first. no other reason than the length of time the finish will adhere and the durability of said finish.

i honestly don't believe for average paint needs either is superior to the other. especially on those rigs that get used and get used hard.

food for thought.

[Hawkeye]

I've found Krylon to be everybit as durable as Alumahyde II, but much easier to work with.

[septic-tank13]

I've found Krylon to be everybit as durable as Alumahyde II, but much easier to work with.


was it quicker or less prep or what makes you say that? i've followed the directions for alumahyde II to the "T" and then i've used it just like a can of krylon as well. results were similar and nearly the same.

what did you find different? not hacking, just curious?

[Hawkeye]

Krylon does dry WAY faster. Minutes for it vs days for Alumahyde II. Alumahyde II seems to go on thicker than Kyrlon, which for me makes krylon easier to control and prevent lumps, runs, etc. Easier to add multiple coats, etc.. Dont get me wrong, I like Alumahyde II, I just find krylon easier to work with for the most part.

[Impact]

+1 for Krylon..it's easy to work with.

[palakaboy]

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f42/pirana87/gearwhore-MC/DSCI0019.jpg

i vote krylon...

it's cheaper and easier to remove if you ever change your mind about something.

alumahyde is a bit pricier and takes some time to ship to your house.

[crowkiller]

Could someone describe the process you use to krylon your AR? I know its just spray paint but some advise would be appreciated. Thanks

[palakaboy]

Palakaboy's (Poison Arrow) Multicam Operation

1st step is prep. if there is any part of the gun you don't want painted now is the time to tape it, plug it, or remove it.

for rubberized parts like lens covers- you might want to sand it first so the paint sticks better.


for the 2nd step- you'll need a bottle of rubbing alcohol- some gloves(non rubber)- cotton, a can of primer.

give your gun a nice wipe down with the rubbing alcohol- be sure to use the gloves that way no other oil is wiped onto your gun by your greasy-a$s hands.

step 2.5- primer.
if you're gonna be using alumahyde- there really is no need for this since it will pretty much bond onto the metal of your gun.

Do one coat of primer. Wait til it dries. then add coat number two. I find that two coats helps my work stay from flaking...

step 3.
your coat. for me i wanted multicam colors...so i started it all off with Tan.
http://a661.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/57/l_0db274e8311f2260c9307c8f166ad8fc.jpg

do a few coats of this tan also. that way the nicks and wear on the paint doesn't show the primer or the body- it'll just show the tan.

step 4
your colors.
i diagonally stripe the gun with the colors from the multicam pattern. this ensures that a nice fade will appear behind the stenciled colors.
my pattern went from tan to darker brown to darker brown to light green.
http://a912.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/49/l_cb7fbfa454cb288d8266daff7af14c77.jpg


step 5.
your stencils.
print out 6-10 of multicam through your printer.
now cut out the little patterns that you would like to put onto your gun.
i find that the paper used in Vons ads are perfect for this because they can bend to the shape of the gun.

step 6.
stenciling.
start out with the larger stencils...start with one color. to better recreate the MC look i painted the stencils horizontally.
follow it off with the smaller different colored stencils.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f42/pirana87/gearwhore-MC/DSCI0019.jpg

the smaller stencils act as detailing pretty much. as it adds that extra flavor to a bland gun that would just look like a discolored woodland.

step 7.
if you would like you can clear coat to your gun. This will ensure a nice strong paint job- however this MAY create a shinier paint job also.


*i found the colors matching multicam by bringing my HSGI cap to home depot and putting them next to the test sprays.

if there isn't a test sprayer around look for a store associate and ask him for an empty box and have at it...im sure they won't mind seeing as you're the customer and it'll keep them from the hassle of refunding you later.

Good luck on your paint job!

[Low Drag]

For you krylon guys.......


Did you apply primer to the metal parts first?

[palakaboy]

sometimes and if my customers opt for it.

it makes the paint job look better.

[Hawkeye]

Wipe entire weapon down with clean dry cloth.

Mask off any areas you dont want painted.

Spray on base coat color. (Khaki works best)

Allow 5 minutes give or take to dry. (hit with some hot air from a blow dryer if desired)

Add on random breakup spots, lines, etc. in colors desired. (OD and Brown for me) *

Allow to fully dry and cure for a day or so.


* Taking either brown or od and slightly misting it all over after the spots and lines are applied will give it a "dirty" look that works quite well.

Thats it. Dont make it any more complicated than you have too. Keep in mind, this is not for a show piece. This is strictly for utilitarian/field use.

[Hawkeye]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/Hawkeye1/Guns/700LTR.jpg

[BravoSix]

Awesome How-To thread guys.

BravoSix out.

[mark5pt56]

I normally use AH II on the base and then Krylon for the pattern. Reason being is that the Krylon dries fast and it doesn't take forever to do it. Both wear well, I haven't had issues with high heat on AR barrels with either.

I don't have any of my own that are painted now, but I did and do alot for others.

Just make sure it's what you want to do. Once it's painted, you've narrowed the market for resale IMO.

I know Shooters Choice will take off the Krylon is soaked in it.

Mark

[SSGN_Doc]

Used Krylon on my AK stock. For furniture, you can follow up with a coat of polyeurethane in Matte finish to add some durability.

http://i28.tinypic.com/2qbety9.jpg

[crowkiller]

Thanks guys for all the helpful info it will be put to good use this spring.:D

[Hootiewho]

I went with the Krylon and I am happy with the results. Thanks again for all the contributions to the thread.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q153/hootiewho6933/DSC00437.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q153/hootiewho6933/DSC00436.jpg

[Hawkeye]

Nicely done sir.

[molsen]

All Krylon.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s206/molsen2295/PICT0766a.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s206/molsen2295/PICT0773a.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s206/molsen2295/PICT0775a.jpg

[mark5pt56]

"Lookin good!" as jay jay would say!

[Low Drag]

All Krylon.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s206/molsen2295/PICT0766a.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s206/molsen2295/PICT0773a.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s206/molsen2295/PICT0775a.jpg



Nice pattern Devil Dog! How in the heck did you do that?

[molsen]

Nice pattern Devil Dog! How in the heck did you do that?

These are my tools for painting. :D


http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s206/molsen2295/14989-mytools.jpg

[Low Drag]

These are my tools for painting. :D


http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s206/molsen2295/14989-mytools.jpg

I showed the pic of the guns to my wife and she said right off it looked like a leaf pattern. When I looked closer I thought it was a fern. I guess I'll be heading into the chick's craft store to get me a branch or two before I begin with mine.

I also think I'll put primer down on the metal parts before the paint.

[molsen]

I showed the pic of the guns to my wife and she said right off it looked like a leaf pattern. When I looked closer I thought it was a fern. I guess I'll be heading into the chick's craft store to get me a branch or two before I begin with mine.

I also think I'll put primer down on the metal parts before the paint.
They only cost about 25cents at a Hobby Lobby.

There's no need to primer your rifle. Just hose it down with some Gunscrubber to degrease it, tape up anything you don't want painted (lenses, optics, etc), plug the magwell, then go to town.

[sjauch]

Did this with Alumahyde II. Cleaned the gun with laquer thinner then masked what I didn't want painted. Put down a base coat of tan and let it dry for about 5 min. Then laid Spyder Mesh over it and hit it with brown and OD.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/sjauch/PaintedAR_05.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/sjauch/PaintedAR_06.jpg

Here it is outside. Really have to paint the Aimpoint, stands out a lot.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/sjauch/PaintedAR_07.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/sjauch/PaintedAR_08.jpg

[sixtop]

Where did you get the spyder mesh? Great looking guns guys!!

Vic

[PRGGodfather]

Just a mesh laundry bag from Walgreens or any other discount store.

I like Krylon.

FWIW, I do a reverse stencil process. I start with the OD, break it up with brown, and use Khaki last -- kind of like how the sun casts shadows. Also, the plastic vegetation lasts a LOT longer than the real stuff.

Light colors actually work better in virtually all AO's, since there's a lot of light out there already -- even in the concrete jungle.

Two rifles I painted for a local SWAT Commander buddy of mine -- since he liked my painted guns so much...

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s257/eanormandy/Guns/pairnickcamo.jpg

[Pilgrim]

I use Krylon Special Purpose Ultra Flat camouflage paint; colors # 8143 Olive Drab, # 8142 Brown, and #8141 Khaki. I use Krylon because it's cheap, quick, effective... and... well... truth be told I sell Krylon paint.

What I do is...

Degrease the parts to be painted using an insanely expensive Paslode Impulse tool cleaner, and blow dry. Simple alcohol wipes have worked for me also.

Remove barrelled action from stock if the rifle in question might stick together after painting. Non-issue with AR's.

I heavily mask off what I don't want painted; which is bearing surfaces and scope lenses and little holes that should not be clogged with paint. I don't paint the pistol grip. I don't paint levers, buttons, rear sights, or triggers either, but that's just my preference.

Usually I will spray a light base coat using the lightest color that will be used. It's easier for me to put dark over light than vise-versa.

Lastly, I paint things that protrude out darker colors, and things that are recessed in lighter colors. Just like putting on face paint.

Even if you do a lousy job, it is better than black.

I have lately started using the mesh overlay and plastic leaves also with good results.

It seems to me that the worse (or ugly) the paint job looks up close, the better it hides the gun at a distance. Any one else notice this?

[David Thomas]

I like Krylon:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/DavidThomas/Krylon2EDC009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/DavidThomas/Krylon2EDC007.jpg

Closer look at the Glock 34:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/DavidThomas/Krylon47009.jpg

[sl4mdaddy]

I used Krylon on my 700P. It's the first time doing anything like this for me but I'm happy with the result, may go back over it with a little more green to bring out more contrast:

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p116/gdvan01/Painted%20700P/Finished_view.jpg

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p116/gdvan01/Painted%20700P/Right_side.jpg

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p116/gdvan01/Painted%20700P/Tree1.jpg


I know, I know...the Punisher thing is a little tacky but I just had to.

;-)

[Kilo 1-1]

I've used Krylon for over the last 5 years when painting because it's readily available and easy to use. Likewise, if you ever need to remove the paint for any reason, it's doable (not like Duracoat and others).
As for durability, it holds up decently. But expect scratches and chipping over time. Likewise, preparation is important on delaying those 2 factors (degrease surface before spraying, shaking can well, etc). It also works well on gear as long as you layer on the paint slowly (as opposed to one thick layer).

In this first picture, the upper receiver was stripped of the krylon paint for a repaint. As you can see, removal of most/all of the paint is possible with patience (break cleaner and acetone). I guess what factors the most in the end is also technique and practice/skill.

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/9778/p1010765if2.jpg

The rest of the pictures are after the repaint.
One color that wasn't Krylon was used (it's not really a color, but more of a transparent honey colored stain glaze clear coat to tone down the khaki).

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/8859/angle1bp8.jpg

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/3860/side1bv6.jpg

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/7266/p1010779ff6.jpg

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/6545/side2hw8.jpg

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/3749/p1010778ki3.jpg

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/6810/angle2yh8.jpg

Hope this helps in your decision making.

[Norva]

Just a mesh laundry bag from Walgreens or any other discount store.

I like Krylon.

FWIW, I do a reverse stencil process. I start with the OD, break it up with brown, and use Khaki last -- kind of like how the sun casts shadows. Also, the plastic vegetation lasts a LOT longer than the real stuff.

Light colors actually work better in virtually all AO's, since there's a lot of light out there already -- even in the concrete jungle.

Two rifles I painted for a local SWAT Commander buddy of mine -- since he liked my painted guns so much...

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s257/eanormandy/Guns/pairnickcamo.jpg


what kind of bolt action rifle is that? Me likes it!:D

[MX5]

I often use GunKote for a base then go over it with Krylon. Regardless of what the base is, if it needs to be changed it's simply added to or removed & started over. If necessary to strip it off for any reason, I've found I can disassemble an AR & remove the Krylon with lacquer thinner in about 1 hour.