Beveling AR Magwell

[Failure2Stop]

I am looking for input regarding beveling a magwell on an AR. I have searched and found nothing regarding this, though my search-fu may be weak.

I assume that removing the hardened anodized aluminum will cause the magwell to wear quickly, so I would like to know if the newly exposed aluminum can be refinished (Cerakote?) to maintain wear resistance. I think I understand the implications of removing aluminum from an anodized lower, but I am in no way a metallurgist or machinist, so my assumptions are just that.

If I can do this myself, groovy. If not, who offers this service, and at what kind of price?

If this has already beed discussed, I would appreciate a link to the thread.
If not, I am interested in informed/professional feedback.

[markm]

If you want to do this yourself (the bevel) S.A.W. offers Colt quality factory refinishing.

Have you looked at the Arredondo Plastice mag well thingy? It would be a removeable, temporary mod to an AR lower. I've never tried or seen one in person, but they list them in Dillon's blue press mag I think.

[rob_s]

I had a brief exchange with Pat Rogers re: this subject on another forum after I made the comment that the biggest attraction for me in the Magpul lowers was the bevel.

I personally think it's a great idea, and agree as to the only potential downside. I have a couple of stripped lowers in the safe and have thought of hitting one with the file.

Does SAW do actual re-anodizing? Seems like that might be a perfect option. I wonder if anyone else offers this service, as I'll be SAW just actually sends them out.

[markm]

I don't know the details on SAW's service.

[Walker Precision]

Anodizing is a pretty big deal equipment wise along with the skill and expertise to do it correctly. It's usually only done by dedicated metal finishing shops. US Anodizing is very reasonable based on prices I've gotten from local shops. I'd bet Rob is correct that SAW just sends them out.

http://www.usanodizing.com/index.htm

[David Thomas]

You may be better off buying a new lower with the magwell already beveled:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v441/DavidThomas/beveledmagwell2008.jpg

But then again... the benefits derived therefrom may not be worth the price of admission regardless of the method chosen.

[Failure2Stop]

demigod- Thanks for the note on SAW, will contact about refinish. I never liked the Arredondo Magwells, and I may throw on a BFG Redi-mag, which precludes their use.

rob-s- That discussion (along with a new lower courtesy of M4arc) is what really put me in the mood to create something. I am slapping together a project and want to make it "just right".

Walker Precision- I did some research on "do it yourself" anodizing, and I am not confident with "doing it myself", and I certainly do not have the required kit to do it in my home. Anything in my hands more involved than spray paint will probably result in an abortion.

ETA- It looks like US anodizing is pretty good, upper and lower for $125. Unless there is another solution for less, this will probably be the answer.

David Thomas- I would be open to a new lower purchase, but the only lower I am aware of with the beveled magwell is the Magpul, and the potential availability and cost is deterrent to my ambition.

Is anodizing the only way to regain surface hardness?
Is it necessary for a lower that will be well used, but not abused?

I have a brass magwell on a comp pistol that is beat-up from reloads, but a minute with a dremel and a felt tip work out any serious dings. How differently would exposed aluminum wear if the only ammunition source was PMags?

Thanks for the replies.

[ostrobothnian]

ETA- It looks like US anodizing is pretty good, upper and lower for $125. Unless there is another solution for less, this will probably be the answer.

Below is a picture of a Blackwell (Renton, WA) receiver that I used for my first custom recon style build. It has the largest bevel that I have seen on a lower machined from a forging. The bevel and all the other finished features are beautiful.

Sorry about the small picture.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k152/finlandssvensk/HPIM1336mod.jpg

[rob_s]

This thread inspired me to look at some of the magwells in my safe. Interestingly no two brands that I have appear to be exactly the same. The stripped DSA that I have seems to have the best bevel, but even it could probably be improved a little.

[Hootiewho]

You don't need a bevel on a mag well to get the mag in the hole easier, just put a little hair around the opening, then sticking it in will be like second nature to you.:D

[scottryan]

Intensionally removing the anodized finish off of a factory lower at any time for any reason is about the dumbest thing you can do to a receiver.

You cannot reanodize and get back to the original dimensions no matter what anybody (and I mean anybody) says.

[rob_s]

Intensionally removing the anodized finish off of a factory lower at any time for any reason is about the dumbest thing you can do to a receiver.


Let's say that you don't try to re-annodize at all. Let's say you simply hit it with black krylon.

what's the worst thing that's going to happen, and how long is it going to take for that worst thing to occur? Especially if, as someone else suggested, you use only P-mags in that lower?

[Failure2Stop]

Intensionally removing the anodized finish off of a factory lower at any time for any reason is about the dumbest thing you can do to a receiver.

You cannot reanodize and get back to the original dimensions no matter what anybody (and I mean anybody) says.

So reanodizing a freshly beveled magwell will cause loss of dimensional control in other areas of the lower? Will the entire lower need to be stripped and refinished, or can the unhardened, exposed areas be anodized without requiring a full refinish of the entire lower?

[bkb0000]

bringing this back- its still unresolved and pertinent. i'm all about making shit the way i want it.

same goes for m4 feedramps. widened magwells and m4 feedramps are righteous things and i follow the path of the righteous.

two things- first, why cant you annodize at home? run electricity through clean, bare aluminum while submerged in a sulfuric acid solution and you have anodize. i've read recipes that call for 15 amps, 15 minutes, and 1 part water for 2 parts sulfuric acid. that's not hard, if it works. i'll do some more research, and try to get ahold of my secluded machinist father.

secondly, and more pressingly, is anodize really necessary? m4s dont NEED anodize because they'll so rarely be struck by bullets. magwells might erode a bit from having magazines speedloaded into them hundreds of times, but by how much? i bet you could jam a thousand steel magazines into a bare aluminum well and not effect function.

[scottryan]

So reanodizing a freshly beveled magwell will cause loss of dimensional control in other areas of the lower? Will the entire lower need to be stripped and refinished, or can the unhardened, exposed areas be anodized without requiring a full refinish of the entire lower?


Reanodizing the lower will open up all the pin holes about 0.003" to 0.005"

You will be able to tell your pins fit sloppy even though this doesn't seem like much.

Upper and lower play will be worse. You will be able to grab your hammer and trigger and wiggle them.

[scottryan]

Let's say that you don't try to re-annodize at all. Let's say you simply hit it with black krylon.

what's the worst thing that's going to happen, and how long is it going to take for that worst thing to occur? Especially if, as someone else suggested, you use only P-mags in that lower?


Taking a GI lower and beveling a magwell is not going to get you much more "bevel" than what was already there from the factory.

If you want a larger bevel, then you need to invest in a billet lower or buy an aftermarket attachment.

Drawbacks of doing this:

Your lower will be opened up to corrosion.

Anyone versed in AR15s will look at you like you're a dumbass.

Turn the value of the lower into $0

[bkb0000]

i'm not convinced the lower needs to be stripped and re-anodized. just grind, clean, attach your leads to any area with stripped anodize, and violin.

[rob_s]

Anyone versed in AR15s will look at you like you're a dumbass.


It's getting to the point that if YOU think doing something makes someone a dumbass, I'd damn near suggest it on that basis alone.

:rolleyes:

[bkb0000]

scotty does seem to have a habit of trying to make people into idiots for not wanting to keep their weapons exactly as manufacturered.

i'm already looking for a sulfuric acid dealer.

[CMFG]

bringing this back- its still unresolved and pertinent. i'm all about making shit the way i want it.

same goes for m4 feedramps. widened magwells and m4 feedramps are righteous things and i follow the path of the righteous.

two things- first, why cant you annodize at home? run electricity through clean, bare aluminum while submerged in a sulfuric acid solution and you have anodize. i've read recipes that call for 15 amps, 15 minutes, and 1 part water for 2 parts sulfuric acid. that's not hard, if it works. i'll do some more research, and try to get ahold of my secluded machinist father.

secondly, and more pressingly, is anodize really necessary? m4s dont NEED anodize because they'll so rarely be struck by bullets. magwells might erode a bit from having magazines speedloaded into them hundreds of times, but by how much? i bet you could jam a thousand steel magazines into a bare aluminum well and not effect function.

Wow. A one-paragraph internet forum do-it-yourself recommendation that involves water, electricity and sulfuric acid. If anyone decides to do this, please set up your camcorder so that we may all enjoy the youtube video afterwards.

[markm]

the benefits derived therefrom may not be worth the price of admission regardless of the method chosen.

End of story.

[bkb0000]

Wow. A one-paragraph internet forum do-it-yourself recommendation that involves water, electricity and sulfuric acid. If anyone decides to do this, please set up your camcorder so that we may all enjoy the youtube video afterwards.

as i've had occasion to say before: you must not build things for a living.

[bkb0000]

you dont need to build things for a living to mix a solution and clip two diodes to a piece of metal. this isn't any more dangerous than any other shop activity. wear rubber, clean up spills, keep the area ventilated, make sure you're leading from a GFI. pretty fricken simple.

[CMFG]

[edit] Process
Preceding the anodization process, wrought alloys are cleaned in either a hot soak cleaner or in a solvent bath and may be etched in sodium hydroxide (normally with added sodium gluconate), ammonium bifluoride or brightened in a mix of acids. Cast alloys are normally best just cleaned due to the presence of intermetallic substances unless they are a high purity alloy such as LM0.

The anodized aluminium layer is grown by passing a direct current through an electrolytic solution, with the aluminium object serving as the anode (the positive electrode). The current releases hydrogen at the cathode (the negative electrode) and oxygen at the surface of the aluminium anode, creating a build-up of aluminium oxide. Alternating current and pulsed current is also possible but rarely used. The voltage required by various solutions may range from 1 to 300 V DC, although most fall in the range of 15 to 21 V. Higher voltages are typically required for thicker coatings formed in sulfuric and organic acid. The anodizing current varies with the area of aluminium being anodized, and typically ranges from 0.3 to 3 amperes of current per square decimeter (20 to 200 mA/in²).

Aluminium anodizing is usually performed in an acid solution which slowly dissolves the aluminium oxide. The acid action is balanced with the oxidation rate to form a coating with nanopores, 10-150 nm in diameter.[5] These pores are what allows the electrolyte solution and current to reach the aluminium substrate and continue growing the coating to greater thickness beyond what is produced by autopassivation.[6] However, these same pores will later permit air or water to reach the substrate and initiate corrosion if not sealed. They are often filled with colored dyes and/or corrosion inhibitors before sealing. Because the dye is only superficial, the underlying oxide may continue to provide corrosion protection even if minor wear and scratches may break through the dyed layer.

Conditions such as electrolyte concentration, acidity, solution temperature, and current must be controlled to allow the formation of a consistent oxide layer. Harder, thicker films tend to be produced by more dilute solutions at lower temperatures with higher voltages and currents. The film thickness can range from under 0.5 micrometers for bright decorative work up to 150 micrometers for architectural applications.

The most widely used anodizing specification, MIL-A-8625, defines three types of aluminium anodization. Type I is Chromic Acid Anodization, Type II is Sulfuric Acid Anodization and Type III is sulfuric acid hardcoat anodization. Other anodizing specifications include MIL-A-63576, AMS 2469, AMS 2470, AMS 2471, AMS 2472, AMS 2482, ASTM B580, ASTM D3933, ISO 10074 and BS 5599. AMS 2468 is obsolete. None of these specifications define a detailed process or chemistry, but rather a set of tests and quality assurance measures which the anodized product must meet. BS 1615 provides guidance in the selection of alloys for anodizing. For British defence work, a detailed chromic and sulfuric anodizing processes are described by DEF STAN 03-24/3 and DEF STAN 03-25/3 respectively.


[edit] Chromic acid anodizing
The oldest anodizing process uses chromic acid. It is widely known as Type I because it is so designated by the MIL-A-8625 standard, but it is also covered by AMS 2470 and MIL-A-8625 Type IB. Chromic acid produces thinner, 0.5 μm to 18 μm (0.00002" to 0.0007")[7] more opaque films that are softer, ductile, and to a degree self-healing. They are harder to dye and may be applied as a pretreatment before painting. The method of film formation is different from using sulfuric acid in that the voltage is ramped up through the process cycle.


[edit] Sulfuric acid anodizing
Sulfuric acid is the most widely used solution to produce anodized coating. Coatings of moderate thickness 1.8 μm to 25 μm (0.00007" to 0.001")[7] are known as Type II, as named by MIL-A-8625, while coatings thicker than 25 μm (0.001") are known as Type III, hardcoat, or engineered anodizing. Very thin coatings similar to those produced by chromic anodizing are known as Type IIB. Thick coatings require more process control,[5] and are produced in a refrigerated tank near the freezing point of water with higher voltages than the thinner coatings. Hard anodizing can be made between 25 and 150 μm (0.001" to 0.006") thick. Anodizing thickness increases wear resistance, corrosion resistance, ability to retain lubricants, and electrical and thermal insulation. Standards for thin sulfuric anodizing are given by MIL-A-8625 Types II and IIB, AMS 2471 (undyed), and AMS 2472 (dyed). Standards for thick sulfuric anodizing are given by MIL-A-8625 Type III, AMS 2469, BS 5599, BS EN 2536 and the obsolete AMS 2468 and DEF STAN 03-26/1.


[edit] Organic acid anodizing
Anodizing can produce yellowish integral colors without dyes if it is carried out in weak acids with high voltages, high current densities, and strong refrigeration.[5] Shades of color are restricted to a range which includes pale yellow, gold, deep bronze, brown, grey, and black. Some advanced variations can produce a white coating with 80% reflectivity. The shade of color produced is sensitive to variations in the metallurgy of the underlying alloy and cannot be reproduced consistently.[2]

Integral color anodizing is generally done with organic acids, but the same effect has been produced in laboratory with very dilute sulfuric acid. Integral color anodizing was originally performed with oxalic acid, but sulfonated aromatic compounds containing oxygen, particularly sulfosalicylic acid, have been more common since the 1960s.[2] Thicknesses up to 50μm can be achieved. Organic acid anodizing is called Type IC by MIL-A-8625.


[edit] Phosphoric acid anodizing
Anodizing can be carried out in phosphoric acid, usually as a surface preparation for adhesives. This is described in standard ASTM D3933


[edit] Borate and tartrate baths
Anodizing can also be performed in Borate or Tartrate Baths in which aluminium oxide is insoluble. In these processes, the coating growth stops when the part is fully covered, and the thickness is linearly related to the voltage applied.[5] These coatings are free of pores, relative to the sulfuric and chromic acid processes.[5] This type of coating is widely used to make electrolytic capacitors, because the thin aluminium films (typically less than 0.5 μm) would risk being pierced by acidic processes.[1]


[edit] Plasma electrolytic oxidation
Plasma electrolytic oxidation is a similar process, but where higher voltages are applied. This causes sparks to occur, and results in more crystalline type coatings.

Yep. Sounds pretty simple to me. Exactly like you described it. Oh, wait, I don't think they mentioned the part about wearing rubber. :rolleyes:

[bkb0000]

Yep. Sounds pretty simple to me. Exactly like you described it. Oh, wait, I don't think they mentioned the part about wearing rubber. :rolleyes:

did you actually read what you posted there, or did you just see a long list of technical jargon and assume we would all think that makes it complicated?

i dont see anything in there was describes how to do it, nor anything that nullifies my claims to ease.

[bkb0000]

and wait a minute- i haven't made any "claims" anyway- all i've done is suggest that this might be something a guy could do in his home shop.

i still think it is.

[CMFG]

You're right. I was spooked by all the big words and "technical jargon", so I posted it without reading any of it. :rolleyes: But this note on DIY anodizing from the FAQ section at the Aluminum Anodizers Council seems simple enough, even for a special ed kid like me:

http://www.anodizing.org/FAQ/faqs.html


For safety reasons, the Council does not advocate "at home" anodizing, and cannot provide the requested information.

ETA: If you'll excuse me, I'm going to log off and go assemble an internal combustion engine now. Someone on a car forum told me it was easy.

[021411]

I know this is an old thread but here's another solution..
Arredondo's magwell. No need to worry about re-anodizing.

Pic taken from their site.

http://www.arredondoaccessories.com/images/fc25l4901gafsb-1.jpg

[bkb0000]

You're right. I was spooked by all the big words and "technical jargon", so I posted it without reading any of it. :rolleyes: But this note on DIY anodizing from the FAQ section at the Aluminum Anodizers Council seems simple enough, even for a special ed kid like me:

http://www.anodizing.org/FAQ/faqs.html



ETA: If you'll excuse me, I'm going to log off and go assemble an internal combustion engine now. Someone on a car forum told me it was easy.

yea- and a lot of "councils" dont recommend non-LEOs carry or even own guns. also for "safety" reasons.

do you really think you shouldnt do something because some elitist organization says you shouldnt?

enough of that, and enough of your condescention. you've got some kind of ego complex-induced compulsion to criticize things you don't feel capable of.

if you're not going to contribute anything to the conversation beyond sarcasm and lame arguments, unsubscribe. your trolling has just cluttered up an otherwise good thread.

[FromMyColdDeadHand]

I'm a chemist and I would just paint the lower than anodize it again. Of course, I was a paint chemist ;)

I think we are starting to see who has a home dentistry kit.

I'm surprised that there aren't more magwells. Pistol mags are smaller, but most have a taper to them to assist insertion and magwells are still common. Seems like it would be a natural option for the Redi-mag products, you've got the magwell surrounded already.

Sounds like a job for......... Magpul!

[bkb0000]

i dont have a home dentristry kit. my home surgery kit freaks the wife out enough as it is.

[FromMyColdDeadHand]

i dont have a home dentristry kit. my home surgery kit freaks the wife out enough as it is.

Now there's a reason for her to stay healthy! I have a feeling she'd just walk-it-out if she burst her appendix.



I'd like to see the youtube video, just to see how it's done. How violent is the H2 production and such. Is it naturally black?

[bkb0000]

Now there's a reason to stay healthy! I have a feeling she'd just walk-it-out if she burst his appendix.

I'd like to see the youtube video, just to see how it's done. How violent is the H2 production and such. Is it naturally black?

from what little i know about it, sounds like it's basically like pouring cold coke over ice... fizzes plenty, but not enough to froth up or anything. i actually considered garbage-bagging the bucket and shooting it with flares afterward. :)

[scottryan]

i'm not convinced the lower needs to be stripped and re-anodized. just grind, clean, attach your leads to any area with stripped anodize, and violin.



I've searched this out myself and I've never found someone that can partially anodize a part that already has some anodizing in some places.

[scottryan]

scotty does seem to have a habit of trying to make people into idiots for not wanting to keep their weapons exactly as manufacturered.

i'm already looking for a sulfuric acid dealer.


Thanks for taking me out of context.

I have a problem with permanent modifications that have little gain and alot to lose.

Nevermind the fact that you have spread misinformation in this thread bringing in "home anodizing" into the thread which is not the same anodizing as on a AR15 receiver.

[scottryan]

It's getting to the point that if YOU think doing something makes someone a dumbass, I'd damn near suggest it on that basis alone.

:rolleyes:

I said "looks like a dumbass" not "are a dumbass"

My point was I wouldn't go around in our circles with some lower that has been ground on. The people on this board are the most versed people in AR15s. I would not have anyone questioning my AR15 building ability. That was grinding on your lower does.

Yes, I know you can say you don't give a damn what other people think but sometimes image matters especially in serious circles.

[usaffarmer]

ETA: If you'll excuse me, I'm going to log off and go assemble an internal combustion engine now. Someone on a car forum told me it was easy.

Its not that hard, that what i do for fun and a living. I just takes know how, and the willingness to try. :rolleyes:

If someone wants to try anodizing, go for it. If people didnt try things you would have auto guns, bolt guns, and AR or anything else.

good luck!:D

[bkb0000]

I said "looks like a dumbass" not "are a dumbass"

My point was I wouldn't go around in our circles with some lower that has been ground on. The people on this board are the most versed people in AR15s. I would not have anyone questioning my AR15 building ability. That was grinding on your lower does.

Yes, I know you can say you don't give a damn what other people think but sometimes image matters especially in serious circles.

seriously? how could it possibly matter that somebody's got a modified gun? please explain

[scottryan]

seriously? how could it possibly matter that somebody's got a modified gun? please explain


When someone hands me an AR to use or work on, the first thing I do is look at the drag marks from the charging handle and in the magazine well from magazine insertion to know how used the rifle is and then I will know what part might need to be replaced, story of the gun, etc. Anyone that doesn't do this should start.

Now if I flip over the gun and see big honkin bare aluminum grinding. What I'm I suppose to think? I question the rest of the gun and the owner. The owner might know what they are doing and they might not.

[Drummer]

Personally, I think the answer to this question is a group buy on Daniel Defense lower receivers :D

Their beveled magwell looks good.

[Robb Jensen]

I am looking for input regarding beveling a magwell on an AR. I have searched and found nothing regarding this, though my search-fu may be weak.

I assume that removing the hardened anodized aluminum will cause the magwell to wear quickly, so I would like to know if the newly exposed aluminum can be refinished (Cerakote?) to maintain wear resistance. I think I understand the implications of removing aluminum from an anodized lower, but I am in no way a metallurgist or machinist, so my assumptions are just that.

If I can do this myself, groovy. If not, who offers this service, and at what kind of price?

If this has already beed discussed, I would appreciate a link to the thread.
If not, I am interested in informed/professional feedback.

It would be far cheapest to just buy a new receiver which is beveled well than paying someone to bevel one and then anodize it.
Lowers that I've recently seen that are beveled really well are Tactical Innovations billet lowers (I have one on my 3gun rifle), new S&W lowers, Daniel Defense lowers, SMOS billet lowers (they make the LaRue lowers).

I've seen some competitors use the Arrendondo magwells on normal forged lowers but they don't really give you any competitive advantage unless you blend the lower into the contours of the Arrendondo magwell. The ones I've seen some left bare aluminum and some refinish in Norrells or GunKote.

BTW Failure2Stop I'll be coaching/teaching on the 17th (of the this month) and shooting the match on the 20th at your old unit.

[bkb0000]

When someone hands me an AR to use or work on, the first thing I do is look at the drag marks from the charging handle and in the magazine well from magazine insertion to know how used the rifle is and then I will know what part might need to be replaced, story of the gun, etc. Anyone that doesn't do this should start.

Now if I flip over the gun and see big honkin bare aluminum grinding. What I'm I suppose to think? I question the rest of the gun and the owner. The owner might know what they are doing and they might not.

i'm still wondering how it could possibly matter that i've modified my gun

[m-w]

Here's an outfit that makes a hobbyist geared anodizing setup. They provide a dvd with the kit and the instructions are on the site.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/aluminum.htm

I have zero experience with Caswell. I just had their site in my metalworking links and thought it might be of interest.

[MX5]

Quite interesting. I'm not going to condemn nor defend anyone in this debate. I will state that I spent the first 20+ yrs. of my adult life working in the refinishing industry & was a professional gunsmith. In the mid '70s & for quite awhile thereafter, we didn't have the parts availability that you have today. We had to make it from scratch or modify existing parts. This included beveling mag wells on all manner of auto & semi-auto weapons, but most were 1911s, ARs & Brownings. Some of these 'smiths have faded from the industry, while some are still working hard at it. I've yet to see any negative issues arise with any of the weapons from that era that were properly and/or professionally altered. I not saying mine is the only answer, but I'm just saying this is 1st hand observation from a total now of well over 30 yrs. of weapons use in & around the industry. Other gunsmiths I've discussed this with agree, but I'll admit my present circle of 'friends' is a very short list at this time. You'd likely recognize more than a few names on it. YMMV

[Failure2Stop]

Since this popped up and seeing that I was the OP I figured I would jump back in and update my perspective.

I have seen many M16s and M4s that have been rode hard and put up wet, so to speak. The bad ones have gone through enough use/abuse to remove the anodizing from the receiver and magwell. Of course this is not a good thing to have happen, which is what inspired this thread over a year ago. I figured that the dremeled M4 feed-ramps would take much more abuse than a magwell would and if they were holding up sufficiently, a lower-wear portion (such as the magwell) seemed to be at less risk of excessive wear. I had no intention of using an Arredondo since I wanted to use a BFG Redi-Mod.

Changes in the political and market climates caused me to decide against potentially ruining any of my lowers. Though some seem to be dwelling on minutia, there seems to be considerable evidence that machining and reanodizing runs significant risk of ruining a lower. I have no actual need for a beveled magwell, I just thought that it might be nice to have, as it was one of the features that made the MagPul lower so alluring.

At this point I am content to simply purchase a lower with the feature built in. Thanks to all that replied with useful information.

[rat31465]

[QUOTE=scottryan;325266]Reanodizing the lower will open up all the pin holes about 0.003" to 0.005"

You will be able to tell your pins fit sloppy even though this doesn't seem like much.

This goes against what I understand about anodizing...It was my belief that Anodizing penetrates the surface to X-depth and also builds up a surface layer of X-thousandths.

Does the acid bath erode the surface more so than it builds back?

Here is a one source for home anodizing kits and a little primer for anyone interested..

http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html

Quoted from the site above.
The following procedure is for anodizing aluminum parts. Anodizing will protect the aluminum parts by making the surface much harder than natural aluminum. Aluminum oxide is grown out of the surface during anodizing and then becomes aluminum hydrate that is extremely hard. The porous nature of the anodized layer allows the product to be dyed any color that is required. The method I describe is Type II anodizing (room temperature) and gives an anodized layer of .0002"to .001" (half of which is grown into the surface and half out of the surface). Parts anodized will become slightly larger by about .0005" Type III (hard coat) anodizing is done at much colder temperatures and at higher current densities and can reach thicknesses of .002". Type III anodized surfaces can typically only be dyed black or dark green due to the denser pore size. I do not cover the hard coat procedure because it is not in the "home brew" category due to the colder acid temperature and high current density that would be required to perform it. The anodizing guide will show you how to perform the more popular Type II anodizing (Room Temp) using the home brew hanging wire method with materials found at typical hardware and auto parts stores (bare bones method). Almost everything you need can be found locally except anodizing dyes and sealer which I sell small quantities of on this site.

[Dr. Quickdraw Mcgraw]

ETA: If you'll excuse me, I'm going to log off and go assemble an internal combustion engine now. Someone on a car forum told me it was easy.

:confused: I built my first engine (a '65 VW Beetle) when I was 13-14 years old... its not really hard at all, just pay attention to what you are doing and be smart enough to ask for help from people that know what they are doing. I know several people that have built up small engines from bare blocks of steel on milling machines in their home shop... Hell I know several guys that have made up single shot rifles from billets of steel and even a couple that have built ARs from blocks of aluminum... I'm sure that you think these guys are madmen.

[Dr. Quickdraw Mcgraw]

Personally, I think the answer to this question is a group buy on Daniel Defense lower receivers :D

Their beveled magwell looks good.

I'd be in for one :D

[Gentoo]

Wow, how did I miss this thread?

I really have to laugh about the comments made in anodizing in this thread. Back in the mid 90's, my little bro was an art student at one of the more prestigious art schools in the US. He studied metalworking and jewelry. Anyways, he worked as a lab tech in the schools jewelry / metal shop and since he had the keys to it, could come and go as he liked. We spent many a night hanging out in the shop making interesting bits and generally having fun.

I guess my point is that if 2 (not always completely sober) 20 year old college kids can handle anodizing, electroplating, forging, etc... I don't think it is beyond the abilities of Rob or the OP.

[ACBMWM3]

Me and a friend are going into the billet lower business and are designing ours to have a wide mag bevel.
It seems a lot of people like that.
And you know what they say, give the people what they want.