My planned custom HD/Training build. Comments welcome.

[HKoolaid]

I am in the planning stages (aka saving up the money) and figured that I'd see if there were any comments or concerns about the build that I'm putting together. First, I want to be plain that money is less of a concern than other things such as build quality or the nebulous enjoyment factor. I am for saving money though, if there is real purpose to it.

This build is designed for home defense, run hard training, last forever, and be fun and fast to shoot. It's also set up to be a little flexible for future use and for ambidextrous needs.

Upper:

Rainier Arms Ultramatch Billet Upper
BCM 14.5" Middy Barrel
AAC Blackout 51T Flash Hider
BCM Gunfigher CH
BCM BCG
MOE Handguard
VLTOR VST-1C Front Flip Sight
Troy Rear Flip Sight
IWC Handstop
Noveske Flush QD Sling Mount


Lower:

Double Diamond LES Billet Lower (7075)
Geissele SDC Trigger
Norgon Ambi-Catch
BAD CASS
Magpul MIAD Grip
DD LPK (for everything else needed)
Noveske QD End Plate
Magpul STR stock
VLTOR A5 System
Sprinco Green Spring
Magpul PMAGs


Extra:

Surefire M300A Scout Light
IWC Scout Light Mount
Aimpoint Micro T-1 2 MOA w/Larue Mount


To clarify some parts of the list - my sling setup uses QD attachments so I like having multiple attachment options where I can. I also don't want a front fixed sight. If you have a better suggestion for the fsb I'm all ears.

The billet upper and lower I know are not necessary, however I know that the rainier upper looks pretty good with the ddles lower. The lower is non negotiable as it is specially made as part of a reddit lower group buy and includes special machining. Those two pieces are the looks part of the build so don't judge too harshly.

If I wanted more accuracy in the future I would plan on switching over to a DD omega rail but right now I am going with a more simple approach that also will hopefully be lighter in the long run.

The flash hider is the same one that I have on my AR10 and hopefully in the future I will be getting a suppressor for it.

So, what do you think? Will this get me what I want? What would you do differently? Thanks for looking.

[420ollie]

I think you have a good set up there bro. I use some of these items on my personal rifle. I run the QDs and mounts in different locations on my gun to give me different options. There is a great 2to1 triglide made by IWC. It gives you the option of running a 2to1 point conversion using the qd swivels.

[HKoolaid]

Yep, I already have that on my VCAS sling. It's great.

[MistWolf]

Non-negotiable or not, billet lowers are generally heavier and more expensive without improving accuracy or reliability.

I am not certain, but I believe the Springco Green spring is a bit on the stiff side for your set up.

The rest of the list looks to be solid choices

What are your reasons for choosing the SDC trigger instead of something more economical like the ALG trigger? What is it about the SDC you like and what makes it a good choice for your intended uses?

[HKoolaid]

Non-negotiable or not, billet lowers are generally heavier and more expensive without improving accuracy or reliability.
I agree that they are more expensive and probably are heavier and it's a part that sees little wear, however it is the center of the gun so extra weight here will be less of a factor than other areas. Also like I said this is where it's more looks than function. It's worth the cost for me if I smile that much more every time I look at it.


I am not certain, but I believe the Springco Green spring is a bit on the stiff side for your set up.
Their website states that the green is the same power as the milspec USGI rifle spring. They have it listed as being specifically for the A5 system. I understand that the 14.5 middy is going to be borderline but I think I'll be ok because I have no plans to run less than quality ammo through it. I reload and will do so using full power charges.


What are your reasons for choosing the SDC trigger instead of something more economical like the ALG trigger? What is it about the SDC you like and what makes it a good choice for your intended uses?
I have a Geissele in my other AR and I am exceedingly impressed by it. I am willing to hear suggestions about other types of high quality triggers, but I chose the SDC because it is not adjustable and has a reasonably high enough pull to stay safe in a stressful situation. I also think that the flat face might be very nice for the feel, having shot different guns with a flat trigger.

[420ollie]

HKoolaid
I would've suggested ambi Mega arms lower. They are quite nice because I checked a marines fun gun. It was set up to be completely ambi and I liked it.

I want to get one but my funds go else where. :cray:

[HKoolaid]

Yeah that would have been better for full ambi but I'm ok with mostly ambi because the lower choice was made already. The mega lowers look great though.

[El Cid]

I chose the SDC because it has a reasonably high enough pull to stay safe in a stressful situation.
The trigger is not what you want to rely on for preventing a negligent discharge. Only you can do that. A 20lb trigger won't help a shooter who has his finger on the trigger when it shouldn't be.

[Magic_Salad0892]

If he runs the LMT Enhanced Carrier he can get away with the A5 system, and Sprinco spring. I'd stick with the 5.1 oz. buffer.

I'd also flip the rail for a KAC URX 3.1, or the new Geiselle rail. But that's because I don't care for non-FF rails, except on bone stock builds. The MOE guards are just fine.

Also. For an ambi gun, why not just get a KAC SR-15 E3 lower, and toss the A5 on it?

I think the price would equal out. And you wouldn't have to wait for all the ambi controls to get there, and you'd have a match trigger and bolt release.

However, I'm a KAC whore. :cool:

ETA: Ignore me. This is your build. Not mine. What you got here is pretty solid.

[Pax]

I cant recommend enough that you run a FF, tubular, modular handguard with a rail-mounted FSB as opposed to an MOE and VLTOR sight tower. There are about four billion and two tubular, modular, FF handguards out there and the market only keeps growing. In case you werent aware, start out with Troy or Samson and you wont go wrong. Cheap, more accurate, durable, marginally heavier if at all, very ergonomic and it allows for a much wider variety of grips/stances.

Other than that, yeah youre good to go. Youve got your head on straight.

[HKoolaid]

The trigger is not what you want to rely on for preventing a negligent discharge. Only you can do that. A 20lb trigger won't help a shooter who has his finger on the trigger when it shouldn't be.

:rolleyes: I understand that, however that was my explanation for why I went with the SDC and not the SDE. I believe that a little margin of safety never hurt. Or would you get one of those air rifle triggers on your HD weapon. You know the ones with the 3 oz trigger pulls?

[HKoolaid]

I cant recommend enough that you run a FF, tubular, modular handguard with a rail-mounted FSB as opposed to an MOE and VLTOR sight tower. There are about four billion and two tubular, modular, FF handguards out there and the market only keeps growing. In case you werent aware, start out with Troy or Samson and you wont go wrong. Cheap, more accurate, durable, marginally heavier if at all, very ergonomic and it allows for a much wider variety of grips/stances.

Other than that, yeah youre good to go. Youve got your head on straight.

Ok, so this is worth discussing I guess. Cost not being a factor, I was attempting to pick a system that was perhaps overly flexibly durable. In case of the yadda yadda zombie apocalypse and all that, broken handguards would be easier to replace than a broken proprietary FF system. Besides accuracy, what would I be gaining with a FF sysetm? I'm genuinely curious to know. I have TRX extreme rails on my AR10 and I like them but they don't seem that much better than stock if accuracy is off the table. What are your thoughts?

[Magic_Salad0892]

Ok, so this is worth discussing I guess. Cost not being a factor, I was attempting to pick a system that was perhaps overly flexibly durable. In case of the yadda yadda zombie apocalypse and all that, broken handguards would be easier to replace than a broken proprietary FF system. Besides accuracy, what would I be gaining with a FF sysetm? I'm genuinely curious to know. I have TRX extreme rails on my AR10 and I like them but they don't seem that much better than stock if accuracy is off the table. What are your thoughts?

If you're running a sling attached to a non-FF rail, and you put a lot of tourque on the sling, you can shift your POI.

And it makes me wonder if you can lose zero.

[rob_s]

How did you arrive at this list of parts? You mention having another AR, what configuration and what is your prior experience with it?

IMO you could do a lot more without all that Gucci shit and just buy a Colt 6933.

[Arctic1]

And it makes me wonder if you can lose zero.

Zero is an optics issue, not a barrel issue.

[Magic_Salad0892]

Zero is an optics issue, not a barrel issue.

True, but I suppose that if enough pressure was put on the barrel it could change orientation slightly.

However if that much pressure was put on the barrel you probably have more important things to worry about.

[HKoolaid]

How did you arrive at this list of parts? You mention having another AR, what configuration and what is your prior experience with it?

IMO you could do a lot more without all that Gucci shit and just buy a Colt 6933.

Here's a list of what my AR10 has:

Mega Arms MA-TEN upper and lower receiver
Black Hole 16" Barrel
Troy 13.8" TRX Extreme rail
DPMS Chrome Bolt Carrier
Rainier Arms Low Profile Gas Block
G&R Tactical Lower Parts Kit with Noveske QD Receiver Plate
Slash's Heavy Buffer (Necessary to run for 308's with AR15 length tubes.)
Geissele NM Service Rifle Trigger
Phase 5 Tactical Extended Bolt Release
Magpul MIAD Grip
VLTOR Emod Stock
AAC Blackout Flash Hider
Troy Folding Sights
Magpul Pmags
Impact Weapons Components Sling Attachments


I'd probably change some things if I'd done it again but in all it works well. It's a great very accurate design that's relatively light weight and flexible for multiple purposes.

In terms of training I don't have a lot but that's a goal. I know how to shoot but I've not done a lot of dynamic shooting but it's a goal of mine.

So what in your opinion besides the upper and lower itself is Gucci in the build I have planned?

[rob_s]

So what in your opinion besides the upper and lower itself is Gucci in the build I have planned?

Almost every piece.

[El Cid]

:rolleyes: I understand that, however that was my explanation for why I went with the SDC and not the SDE. I believe that a little margin of safety never hurt. Or would you get one of those air rifle triggers on your HD weapon. You know the ones with the 3 oz trigger pulls?

Oh boy... There was no mention of the SDE. You were addressing Mistwolf's question about the ALG. The point is that you stated the little bit of extra weight gave you a margin of safety during a "stressful situation." This implies you will have your finger on the trigger since that is the only way the extra pull will do that for you. It's thinking like yours that resulted in the dumb concept of a DA/SA handgun and the 3 round burst. Rather than address a training problem, the equipment was altered resulting in a less effective weapon.

Build your rifle however you like. I was simply pointing out that your reason for the trigger was flawed. Maybe you mistyped... But I see no other way to interpret what you posted.

[C4IGrant]

Put money into things that are a good idea and cut money from things that are not.

First, I will assume that you are pinning the AAC to make the barrel 16" OAL? This is a mistake. The reason is because if you ever want to change something out, you are screwed.

So go with a 16" middy barrel.

Drop ALL BILLET items.

The A5 with a 14.5" middy is really asking for a problem (if you are not shooting suppressed).

So I would buy a BCM upper (complete), shave down the FSB and install a quality one piece FF rail (my fav is the NSR). Then get a BCM BLEM lower.

My .02.


C4

[Magic_Salad0892]

Put money into things that are a good idea and cut money from things that are not.

First, I will assume that you are pinning the AAC to make the barrel 16" OAL? This is a mistake. The reason is because if you ever want to change something out, you are screwed.

So go with a 16" middy barrel.

Drop ALL BILLET items.

The A5 with a 14.5" middy is really asking for a problem (if you are not shooting suppressed).

So I would buy a BCM upper (complete), shave down the FSB and install a quality one piece FF rail (my fav is the NSR). Then get a BCM BLEM lower.

My .02.


C4

I agree with you. 16.1'' mid, or 11.5'' would be the smartest route.

Screw billet.

As for a lower, I'd recommend KAC for ambi features.

[Tzook]

Why limit yourself so much on ammo? Don't you want your gun to be useful when your brand won't be available? If the shit ever hits the fan, I'm glad my Noveske will cycle anything and everything.