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Leonidas24
08-02-12, 01:41
So I'm doing some work for a friend who wanted a DCAEK installed on his Shield and am having a hell of a time getting the rear sight off. I've already destroyed a brass punch and am at a loss for words. I've been letting it soak in PB Blaster for a while now and will try to push this thing out again tomorrow morning.

For reference I am pushing from left to right if you look at the sight from the rear of the gun. I got it to move about 2 thousandths of an inch but it won't budge any further, and what's worse is that it won't move the other way now. So, I'm stuck for the time being.

I've talked to Chris Harter (local smith) and he says he would simply try the same techniques as I and tried Bullet Stop (for the local Wichita guys you know who these guys are) but they don't have a sight pusher. I'm not going to buy one, I don't work on enough of these to warrant buying one, but if it comes down to it is there someone in the Wichita area that might have an M&P sight pusher that I could borrow? Any other suggestions would be helpful.

~Rob

Hogsgunwild
08-02-12, 02:36
I am sure that you did this but I have to ask since you didn't state it;
did you loosen the set screw first?

You probably did, so, my next thought on a stubborn sight would be to heat the slide with a blow dryer, heat gun or possibly a soldering gun if you can rig up a heat sink so as not to roast your slide. Perhaps even cooling the rear sight down with a cold pack or ice as well.

Keep it oiled.

If that doesn't work I would start to think about farming it out to a gunsmith.

Hogsgunwild
08-02-12, 02:47
It also occurred to me that I always use a steel punch. I have a large selection of round punches and even some dull chisels that allow me to always seem to have a size that distributes the load over as broad of an area as possible. Sounds like time to ditch the brass.

AmeriGlo
08-02-12, 07:45
I don't think the MGW M&P tool will work due to the Shield slide being thinner than the original M&P. Ask around for the Laserlyte universal tool

ShipWreck
08-02-12, 14:48
I have seen a handful of other reports (on other forums) that people are having issues removing rear Shield sights.

Heating it up has helped others break the locktite bond.

Dragun
08-02-12, 20:02
I put some Kroil penetrating oil on it and let it soak in overnight. I used a brass drift punch and heavy ballpeen hammer in a solid vise. Came out easily.

Magsz
08-02-12, 20:29
Either the sights are too tight or the dovetails are ridiculous.

I destroyed three brass punches getting the rear sight off.

I used the TURBO hammer of thor in order to get the damned thing out of its home.

There is no locktite in the dovetail so i highly doubt that is causing any issues.

SWAT Lt.
08-02-12, 21:16
Mine was very difficult to move also. I drifted it to correct POI (before I read in the manual where it says NOT to move the rear sight). Interestingly, the manual says to move the front sight to correct any POI issues.

Leonidas24
08-02-12, 22:15
Mine was very difficult to move also. I drifted it to correct POI (before I read in the manual where it says NOT to move the rear sight). Interestingly, the manual says to move the front sight to correct any POI issues.

That's what I've read as well; nonetheless, if the striker block needs replaced or cleaned or what have you the rear sight has to come off. It's been soaking in PB Blaster since last night again and I've borrowed a huge brass punch from a friend. We'll see but I think that S&W used a freaking 20 ton press to drift this thing in place.

Randy Lee
08-02-12, 22:59
Hi,

The Shield sight is MIM and uses two lengthwise ribs that wedge the sight firmly in the dovetail. It could be that there is some galling.

The other problem is that the sides of the sight has a step that makes it difficult to hit the sight squarely.

If you cannot get it to budge, send the slide to us and we can remove the sight and install the USB while we're at it. We had to make special punches to prevent damage. Also, we will reduce the ribs so that at least you will be able to move the sight with normal punches.

Randy

rljatl
08-02-12, 23:20
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=11401/Products/Sight-Movers

http://www.laserlyte.com/products/rl-tool

http://www.hinterlandoutfitters.com/laserlyte-rltool-universal-rear-sight-laser-installation-tool-p-33044.html

Leonidas24
08-03-12, 00:48
Hi,

The Shield sight is MIM and uses two lengthwise ribs that wedge the sight firmly in the dovetail. It could be that there is some galling.

The other problem is that the sides of the sight has a step that makes it difficult to hit the sight squarely.

If you cannot get it to budge, send the slide to us and we can remove the sight and install the USB while we're at it. We had to make special punches to prevent damage. Also, we will reduce the ribs so that at least you will be able to move the sight with normal punches.

Randy

I really appreciate it Randy but I got it removed just a bit ago. A combination of sitting in PB Blaster for 36 hours and my buddy's mongoloid brass punch got it out and I filed down the ribs to help it slide in easier. I appreciate the offer and will reverberate what you said to any customers that have similar issues.

~Rob

jmp45
08-03-12, 08:29
I really appreciate it Randy but I got it removed just a bit ago. A combination of sitting in PB Blaster for 36 hours and my buddy's mongoloid brass punch got it out and I filed down the ribs to help it slide in easier. I appreciate the offer and will reverberate what you said to any customers that have similar issues.

~Rob

I need to do the same on my 9fs.

mikebenedict
08-03-12, 09:26
I use 1" Nylon rod from Aircraft Spruce and a ball peen hammer to move stubborn rear sights.
It does not mar the finish and I just grind it flat when it gets beat up. I have had no problems removing Shield sights.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/me/nylon.html

Richard Belott
08-04-12, 10:40
+1 on the nylon rod works every time