View Full Version : Crap! M&P Rusted- Help and Re-Finishing Opinions Please?
So being a dumbass I decided to store my M&P in my super humid basement. Yeah, I know- brilliant idea. :rolleyes:
I went to retrieve it about a week later and saw, to my dismay a good bunch of rust all over the slide, rear sight, and slide release button, as well as some on the magazine I had in it.
I was literally walking out the door on vacation with no time to research, so in my spur of the moment "holy crap- do something NOW" freakout, I hit it with some steel wool and oil (apparently this is a bad thing?).
The good news is I got most of it off as it hadn't quite set in yet. And it doesn't seem to have gotten into the internals or barrel.
The bad news is I couldn't get it all off- especially in the serrations. And after leaving it for a week, some of it seems to slowly be coming back. You can also see a little bit in the pictures below where I managed to rub off some of the finish on the right side of the slide's serrations trying to get at the rust in there. :o
I just read through a couple threads here about this, and apparently, the go-to option here is to holler at S&W.
BUT I absolutely refuse to let them steal my APEX parts! :mad:
For anyone who's had to send in parts for rust, can I just send the slide in? Or will I have to send the whole gun?
Yes, I know theres an APEX part in the slide too, but if I can find my originals, I can replace that one part fairly easily before I send it in.
What about sending it straight off to be refinished by Robar or such? Will having a pre-existing condition screw up the new finish? Or not an issue since it will be getting re-finished and probably stripped off anyway?
As far as further prevention goes, what's a good option to stop this from happening again?
Obviously, gun care 101, keep it oiled and such (that being said it was in VERY good shape when I put it away before this happened- I take care of my stuff). Apparently I will be removing it from it's original case ASAP as well.
Would a coating on the slide, and maybe even internals and such help?
Cerakote?
Nickel Boron?
Robar NP3?
I have heard good things about NP3- expensive though.
I've not done much research yet, but I've heard rumors one can DIY a cerakote job? How rust-resistant is Cerakote, VS NP3/NiB?
Some pictures of the carnage:
Magazine:
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s266/JellybeanA5/MP-Mage2.jpg
The spot I rubbed off on the serrations. D'oh!:
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s266/JellybeanA5/MPSlide-Right.jpg
Left side serrations and rear sight:
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s266/JellybeanA5/MPSlide-Left.jpg
General slide rust marks- there was a LOT more than this originally:
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s266/JellybeanA5/MPSlide.jpg
Right side serration detail:
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s266/JellybeanA5/MPSlide-RightSerrations.jpg
Left side again:
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s266/JellybeanA5/MPSlide-Serrations.jpg
JBecker 72
08-09-12, 19:36
Tooth brush + gun oil of your choice + elbow grease = problem solved.
Before you have the gun refinished, you may want to ask yourself if that is necessary for the purpose of the gun. Obviously it would fix the problem, but I for one would not waste the money.
If you think they look nice and that is important to you, then fine, but you're adding nothing to the performance of the gun. The opportunity cost will be several hundred rounds of training ammo.
mkmckinley
08-09-12, 20:11
That's nothing. Definitely not worth a refinish. Just scrub it with a toothbrush and CLP like has been suggested and drive on.
For anyone who's had to send in parts for rust, can I just send the slide in? Or will I have to send the whole gun?
Yes, I know theres an APEX part in the slide too, but if I can find my originals, I can replace that one part fairly easily before I send it in.
My M&P 45 was an older model that started to rust, S&W replaced the slide free of charge. I sent the entire pistol in, but they also issued a call tag and covered all shipping.
Judging from your sights, it looks like a newer model so you may not be able to slip one past S&W since the rusting issues on M&P's were early on. I will say if you send it to them, remove any APEX parts, unless you don't want them back.
Froglube will take that right off and prevent it from coming back.
Before you have the gun refinished, you may want to ask yourself if that is necessary for the purpose of the gun. Obviously it would fix the problem, but I for one would not waste the money.
If you think they look nice and that is important to you, then fine, but you're adding nothing to the performance of the gun. The opportunity cost will be several hundred rounds of training ammo.
Well, in all fairness, I wouldn't say it adds "nothing" to the performance of the gun- it would be adding enhanced durability, prevention of rust/corrosion, and in some cases smoother functioning.
Now, would I rather spend the money on ammo? Of course. Besides which, I really don't relish the thought of dumping out money I don't have right now anyway.
However, will I find the money to spend if this gets to annoying to deal with? You bet.
That's nothing. Definitely not worth a refinish. Just scrub it with a toothbrush and CLP like has been suggested and drive on.
I will give it another go again tommorrow.
I don't have any cool stuff like CLP or Froglube- just some cheap Outers gun oil, and Slip 2000- I don't think the Slip will work very well for this?
That being said, the pictures up here are from after the first cleaning about a week ago- it was a good bit worse when I first pulled it out then (although not quite as bad as some previously documented here).
Ive had similar problems with a Glock and a IWI baby desert eagle. Get yourself some Birchwood Casey Barricade and that will help alleviate your problem. Its a dedicated rust preventative and it works wonders. The Slip 2000 you have isn't bad either.
Froglube will take that right off and prevent it from coming back.
Oh and froglube has been shown to be not very good at rust prevention. https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=103924
There's no pragmatic reason to have the weapon refinished. Expect your weapons to rust some time before they're all used up and that you'll wipe it off with some oil and keep shooting.
I had that on my M&P45 2 years ago after a wet weekend of camping. I used some CLP and 0000 steel wool. took 10 seconds and has been rust free ever since.
Dehumidifier in the basement and a plug in gun safe dehumidifier. Both will help to prevent further issues. Store it bathed in CLP or grease.
Urban_Redneck
08-10-12, 07:55
Soak the parts for a day or two in Kroil, scrub with a tooth brush. If you can't find Kroil, you can soak the parts in kerosene.
Ceracoat would fill the pits if you decide it needs refinishing.
$0.02
Stop looking at it and go shoot it!
If it really bothers you that much send it to me and I'll re-finish it in the stock Nitride for cheap and you won't loose any parts.
NeoNeanderthal
08-10-12, 10:11
Perfect excuse to spreypaint/ camo your gun
For storing firearms in less than ideal conditions, I've always found Eezox to be superb in stopping rust/corrosion. I've left blued guns stashed in a humid environment for several months coated with Eezox and they were perfectly fine. It's probably one of the best products out there for preventing rust.
shootist1970
08-12-12, 10:06
At worst use some "Flitz" metal polish, your basement must be a swimming pool, getting a stainless steel slide to rust like that.
M&P's rust. That's just part of owning one. Scrub it with some CLP and wipe off the excess.
It is a little aggravating especially when comparing it to something like the Tenifer finish on Glocks but its a miniscule irritation at best.
I have zero issues with rust on their newer magazines that has whatever type of whiz bang coating on it. I am hoping Smith in the future will transfer that new coating onto the gun itself.
-Jax
Heavy Metal
08-12-12, 10:55
M&P's rust. That's just part of owning one. Scrub it with some CLP and wipe off the excess.
It is a little aggravating especially when comparing it to something like the Tenifer finish on Glocks but its a miniscule irritation at best.
I have zero issues with rust on their newer magazines that has whatever type of whiz bang coating on it. I am hoping Smith in the future will transfer that new coating onto the gun itself.
-Jax
If Smith is ngoing to Nitride, they need to change their slide material to carbon steel.
If Smith is ngoing to Nitride, they need to change their slide material to carbon steel.
Good point Heavy Metal. If the new mags do use nitride doesn't that same process reduce the resistance to corrosion on stainless steel? When it comes to coatings, finishes, etc I am seriously lacking in knowledge.
-Jax
My sister brought me her Bersa which had rusted from a bottle if water being spilled on it in the bottom of her purse. Using Frog Lube paste I was able to remove all the rust and she hasn't had any issues since. It works well, however you have to use it properly. I treat all of my pistols with it and gave never had any issues.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb244/a996hawk/2012-07-20_16-26-25_612.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb244/a996hawk/2012-07-20_22-58-09_928.jpg
Blame any misspellings on Tapatalk
M&P's rust. That's just part of owning one. Scrub it with some CLP and wipe off the excess.
It is a little aggravating especially when comparing it to something like the Tenifer finish on Glocks but its a miniscule irritation at best.
I have zero issues with rust on their newer magazines that has whatever type of whiz bang coating on it. I am hoping Smith in the future will transfer that new coating onto the gun itself.
-Jax
I've never had an m&p rust, including ones that have been carried and I'm a sweaty person. I was under the impression early m&ps had occasional rust issues, but that there haven't been any problems recently.
isn't glock's tenifer and s&W's melonite basically the same thing? just the name they gave their nitrocarburizing process?
Gary1911A1
08-12-12, 14:47
If Smith is ngoing to Nitride, they need to change their slide material to carbon steel.
Things like this have me thinking they are not the same.:confused:
I put an APEX extractor on my m&p this week and when I took off the factory extractor I found some rust underneath on the slide. First time ever taking the extractor out and I've owned the gun for a few years.
Lesson learned... I wont be waiting so long to completely clean and oil a firearm.
Oh and wahoo95 those before and after pics are amazing! I started using Frog Lube a few months ago and love it!
Heavy Metal
08-12-12, 18:42
Things like this have me thinking they are not the same.:confused:
The current slides are Nitirded Stainless and Glock slides are nitrided Carbon Steel. Nitriding actually DECREASES the corrosion resistance of Stanless Steel and increases it greatly for Carbon Steel.
oh and wahoo95 those before and after pics are amazing! I started using Frog Lube a few months ago and love it!
I'll say! That Froglube is definitely something I need to pick up.
Gary1911A1
08-13-12, 08:17
The current slides are Nitirded Stainless and Glock slides are nitrided Carbon Steel. Nitriding actually DECREASES the corrosion resistance of Stanless Steel and increases it greatly for Carbon Steel.
Thanks. Sounds like S&W needs to find a new finish.
My sister brought me her Bersa which had rusted from a bottle if water being spilled on it in the bottom of her purse. Using Frog Lube paste I was able to remove all the rust and she hasn't had any issues since. It works well, however you have to use it properly. I treat all of my pistols with it and gave never had any issues.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb244/a996hawk/2012-07-20_16-26-25_612.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb244/a996hawk/2012-07-20_22-58-09_928.jpg
Blame any misspellings on Tapatalk
damn.....frog lube does that?? that's it. i have seen enough. i am going to get some frog lube.
legumeofterror
08-13-12, 10:15
If Smith is ngoing to Nitride, they need to change their slide material to carbon steel.
The slide and barrel should have been carbon steel from the beinging. This would have allowed them to use a correct twist rate in the barrel and not have thier finish suck. They won't ever be likley to change it though, as they are heavily invested in stainless steel component production.
MY CZ-75 rusted like crazy in all the areas where the finish had worn after being submerged in brackish water and carried for a few hours in that condition. Just had to clean it up with some nylon brushes, a sponge, and CLP/oil and everthing was fine. OP's M&P will be fine, rust isn't a big deal.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/LegumeOfTerror/RUST/DSC01572.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/LegumeOfTerror/RUST/DSC01577.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/LegumeOfTerror/RUST/DSC01578.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/LegumeOfTerror/RUST/DSC01576.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a248/LegumeOfTerror/RUST/DSC01583.jpg
That Bersa cleanup came out great! I am getting some Frog Lube.
legumeofterror
08-13-12, 10:22
That Bersa cleanup came out great! I am getting some Frog Lube.
The fact that he used "frog lube" has nothing to do with it...
The fact that he used "frog lube" has nothing to do with it...
Agreed, K-Mart ATF will do the same thing, just like a thousand other products.
Before you have the gun refinished, you may want to ask yourself if that is necessary for the purpose of the gun. Obviously it would fix the problem, but I for one would not waste the money.
If you think they look nice and that is important to you, then fine, but you're adding nothing to the performance of the gun. The opportunity cost will be several hundred rounds of training ammo.
I agree. Your typical M&P is not a collector piece and will never be worth more than you paid for it. It is just a tool. I would scrub it with a toothbrush and CLP, and remember to oil it next time. In a humid area I would recommend V80 or even better Froglube.
I specifically bought my M&P to wear on my hip while fly fishing. It get wet, scratched, and still functions perfectly. Now, it the rusty gun was a vintage 1911, it would be well worth paying for a refinish if it warranted it. My two cents.
Well, I scrubbed the hell out of it for about two hours today. Got about 90% of what was left in the pics off. Still some marks that won't go away, but I've oiled it up, banished the factory case, and will use it as is for now and just keep an eye on it.
That being said, I may still look into getting a tougher finish anyway, just for my own peace of mind, as this will eventually be my EDC piece.
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