View Full Version : Circular RE nut - what is the best tool for the job
Gang - what is the highest quality tool available to remove this type of RE nut?
(I'm looking for one with a 1/2" or 3/4' square drive so I can use one of my torque wrenches)
Thanks in advance!
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/2519/kacrenut.jpg
polymorpheous
09-08-12, 08:34
Buy a new castle nut.
One that can take a staking.
Torque values on the receiver extension isn't important.
Get it good and snug, then stake the endplate into a notch in the castle nut.
Otherwise, if you plan on using that one instead of buying a $4 part.
You will need a spanner wrench.
Seriously, the correct part will cost you way less than that spanner.
If you can find it.
militarymoron
09-08-12, 08:35
i'm sure iraqgunz or someone more knowledgeable will chime in, but personally i haven't seen any very high quality wrenches for that type of nut. they usually only have a single pin which is prone to shearing off.
are you trying to remove it or tighten it? either way, i'd replace it with a regular castle nut with square slots - there are quite a few good tools for those. you can use a punch to loosen it, then toss it as it'll be chewed up.
polymorpheous
09-08-12, 08:38
i'm sure iraqgunz or someone more knowledgeable will chime in, but personally i haven't seen any very high quality wrenches for that type of nut. they usually only have a single pin which is prone to shearing off.
are you trying to remove it or tighten it? either way, i'd replace it with a regular castle nut with square slots - there are quite a few good tools for those. you can use a punch to loosen it, then toss it as it'll be chewed up.
I don't think that the part is actually installed.
The takedown pin is not there.
militarymoron
09-08-12, 08:40
good observation - toss it! :)
Guys it's installed - I removed some parts off of the KAC lower and the RE has to go to make way for an A5 RE and associated kit from VLTOR... KAC installs their take down pin detent and spring from the grip area, and it sits 90 degrees perpendicular to the original design. I already have a Colt castle nut sitting in my pile of new parts to go on the lower, but I would still like to find a nice tool to remove and install these. KAC obviously used a nice tool to torque up the nut since it is not marred in any way and I'm sure it is on there "guten-tite."
I have fired off an email to these folks to ensure their spanner wrench works properly with the RE nut.
I'm still open to any version that will allow me to use a 1/2" or 3/4" drive torque wrench.
http://www.crosstac.com/product/ar-50-ar-15-spanner-wrench
Thanks again...
polymorpheous
09-08-12, 09:11
If you don't care about the nut, you can tap it off with a center punch as MM suggested.
Otherwise, I think finding the right size spanner wrench with a 1/2" drive on it will be difficult.
I believe the DPMS ar-15 tool will work to take that nut off. I would just try to barrow one to get it off. Then get a Hammerhead tool if you don't already have one.
Sent from my Sprint EVO 4G LTE
This is the best tool for the old style nut. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=21254/Product/AR-15-M16-M4-BUTTSTOCK-TOOL
This is one of the best tools for the new style nut. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27454/Product/CAR-15-M4-BUTTSTOCK-WRENCH
This is also one of the best tools for the new style nut. http://hammerheadrifletool.com/HammerHead_Rifle_Tool/HammerHead_Rifle_Tool_Home.html
I was looking for a way to get it off and put it back on with a torque wrench without damaging it, and add to my tool collection. Thank you 556Cliff for responding with relevant info.
E-man
I don't think that the part is actually installed.
The takedown pin is not there.
Poly,
It may still be installed but obviously not sure about that. I do know that my Vltor lower take down pin spring and detent is NOT located behind the RE endplate. It is captured by the pistol grip right behind the selector switch.
-Jax
ETA: Notice no hole for spring and detent and the take down pin is mounted.
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac279/jaxman7/2012-05-14_19-11-42_698.jpg
My recommendation is to get rid of the old style castle nut and get a new one. The only tool I use (aside from my own designed wrench) is the Hammerhead.
Don't frickin' worry about the torque. Put some anti-seize on the threads, snug it down and then tighten it by feel. Unless you are a steroid king and have no sense of feel, you will be just fine.
My recommendation is to get rid of the old style castle nut and get a new one. The only tool I use (aside from my own designed wrench) is the Hammerhead.
Don't frickin' worry about the torque. Put some anti-seize on the threads, snug it down and then tighten it by feel. Unless you are a steroid king and have no sense of feel, you will be just fine.
I don't think he wants to listen to getting a decent castle nut instead of that thing.
A big +1 on the Hammerhead wrench, you probably have the spiffy titanium one.
See post #6... what is wrong with my choice of installing a Colt castle nut? Why am I being hassled for wanting to purchase a tool so that every time I come across this type of nut I will be prepared? I am really confused with the logic (or lack there of) in this thread... Or maybe folks need to just slow down and read what I posted.
polymorpheous
09-08-12, 14:10
See post #6... what is wrong with my choice of installing a Colt castle nut? Why am I being hassled for wanting to purchase a tool so that every time I come across this type of nut I will be prepared? I am really confused with the logic (or lack there of) in this thread... Or maybe folks need to just slow down and read what I posted.
Because it is no longer a standard part.
You will not likely run into another.
See post #6... what is wrong with my choice of installing a Colt castle nut? Why am I being hassled for wanting to purchase a tool so that every time I come across this type of nut I will be prepared? I am really confused with the logic (or lack there of) in this thread... Or maybe folks need to just slow down and read what I posted.
Or maybe you should slow down and figure out what people are telling you, and why. If you don't understand why that castle nut is garbage, that is fine. However, to ignore what a lot of experience is telling you paints you in a negative light, or at least makes it look like you have no idea what you are doing.
Is there a reason you want to use a substandard part that you can't stake?
polymorpheous
09-08-12, 14:14
Come to think of it...
I believe I have one of these.
It's yours if you want it.
I'm not ignoring anyone... I'm ignoring irrelevant advice.
I asked for advice to help me find a tool to remove and reinstall this type of nut. I cannot control what type of nut I am going to see on a factory assembled lower. I explained that I would be installing a Colt castle nut to replace this one, yet everyone is ignoring this fact. Just because I want a tool that can be utilized in removing and reinstalling these type of nuts with a provision for a torque wrench somehow bent everyone all out or shape from the assumption that I would reinstall this nut. One member already pointed me in the right direction and as result I have ordered a tool so that in the future I won't be in this same situation.
Let's remove the butthurt syndrome for a moment. Most of those "nub" wrenches are shit and I have seen them break off.
The improved castle nut is much better and for a reason. In addition there are no proper staking points to stake it to the endplate (again this is done for a reason).
I have had weapons go down that required me to put a wrench on the castle nut and tear them down to clear it. I didn't have a vise or any way to really secure the lower. What helped was having a good tool to grasp the nut to allow me to remove it.
It's time to put down the club and get a light saber.
Stickman- I actually have the standard one and it is going strong after about 2.5 years and almost daily use.
Stickman- I actually have the standard one and it is going strong after about 2.5 years and almost daily use.
I was just ribbing you. I think the Hammerhead is one of the "must have" tools for any armorer, department, unit, group or even individual who works on the M4/ AR platform on any semi-regular basis. They really did a good job with it.
I was just ribbing you. I think the Hammerhead is one of the "must have" tools for any armorer, department, unit, group or even individual who works on the M4/ AR platform on any semi-regular basis. They really did a good job with it.
I agree...
I'm still excited about HammerHead Bob's barrel wrench that has yet to come out. Last I heard it sounded like he was thinking about combining the stock wrench and the barrel wrench together to make one uber tool.
I was just ribbing you. I think the Hammerhead is one of the "must have" tools for any armorer, department, unit, group or even individual who works on the M4/ AR platform on any semi-regular basis. They really did a good job with it.
I love my Hammerhead.. do you know if the titanium one is stronger? I notice the corners on the castle nut teeth on mine are starting to round/wear.
i hope it all works out for you.for me i just found a great tool.the hammerhead!thanks all for pointing it out!
Gonna move on with life now... The only person who told me something I didn't already know is 556Clint. (twice in the thread) Next time I may post up a pictogram for those who have trouble with reading comprehension.
From what I saw, we were trying to help. Apparently you don't need it so rock on!
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