View Full Version : Lubricating the buffer spring
I bought a buffer spring made by Sprinco. It came with a free little container with their own machine gun lubricating oil. I forgot about that. Directions said to lubricate the spring. I did wipe a tiny drop of Breakfree CLP down the spring.
Should I have used the Sprinco oil or is Breakfree just as good?
It it good to even lube the spring in the first place?
Lube and grease are a great way to collect lots of crap blowing around in the weapon.
That is what I was thinking.
Time to clean off the spring and wipe any excess out of the tube with a paper towel and drop of soap with the end of a wooden spoon!
Simple enough!
---
Edit: and blow dry.
Edit 2: All I used was a paper towel at the end of a cleaning rod to wipe away any oil that was inside the tube. I also thoroughly wiped down the spring. It was less than 1 drop of oil- it was barely any oil I used. Good as new.
:lol:
Lube and grease are a great way to collect lots of crap blowing around in the weapon.
Lube the spring and buffer.
everyusernametaken
10-13-12, 07:33
Lube the spring and buffer.
I do this as part of routine cleaning and lubrication, too. I apply a few drops along the length of the spring and a couple drops to the buffer, spreading the oil around them before reinstalling. Action feels noticeably smoother/less "draggy". Doesn't attract much fouling in my experience. I periodically clean inside the tube, like a couple times a year.
Lube and grease are a great way to collect lots of crap blowing around in the weapon.
Why does everyone say to run these guns dripping wet than? I've never agreed with this because oil also attracts dust and dirt.
Why does everyone say to run these guns dripping wet than? I've never agreed with this because oil also attracts dust and dirt.
I think Stickman was kidding.
And the whole attracts dust and dirt thing is not a big issue for AR's, as it's mostly a closed system except for the barrel. It's more of an issue with crew served weapons with exposed feeding mechanisms and ammo. When operating in a sandy/dusty environment, lube the internals of the gun as usual, and remove as much excess lube from the external surfaces/parts of the weapon as you can, AFTER they are lubed.
Why does everyone say to run these guns dripping wet than? I've never agreed with this because oil also attracts dust and dirt.
Not the gun. The bolt.
C4
I spray new buffers/springs with Dri-Lube. Smoothes the action, doesn't collect crud, and last a long time.
A lite coat of oil on the spring and buffer would do no harm, nor for that matter no good. Sure there will be some crud attracted to the oil but it shouldn't be an issue unless you only clean your weapon every ten years or so. I've yet to meet a piece of crud big enough to stop the buffer. It may feel/sound a little rougher to the hand and ear, but it will work.
And yes, wet bolt not a wet weapon. I can't believe how much oil some people use on their AR's
Been using FIREClean lately on my SBR and it was really the first time I haven't made sure the BCG was dripping wet. We'll see how this goes. With my other ARs, i use whatever is free but make sure the BCG is dripping wet. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to lube the buffer spring, or the buffer and buffer tube for that matter. Just don't pour oil down it.
Just don't pour oil down it.
Carlo I thought that's what the drain hole at the end the RE was for. Fill it up with oil and let the excess run through the opening. :D
-Jax
I put a light coat in the spring to aid in corrosion prevention and it also helped to quiet down the noise the spring makes sliding in the inside of the tube.
StrikerFired
10-13-12, 14:36
I do this as part of routine cleaning and lubrication, too. I apply a few drops along the length of the spring and a couple drops to the buffer, spreading the oil around them before reinstalling. Action feels noticeably smoother/less "draggy". Doesn't attract much fouling in my experience. I periodically clean inside the tube, like a couple times a year.
Same here,
There is a lot of metal to metal contact in there and sliding along of surfaces...I just can't imagine that should be doing all of that in there with no lube of any kind.
I put a light coat in the spring to aid in corrosion prevention and it also helped to quiet down the noise the spring makes sliding in the inside of the tube.
1. Spring corrosion? That isn't a problem.
2. Noise in your stock? Your weapon discharging is a lot louder.
TangoSauce
10-13-12, 15:59
I spray down the new buffer spring with an old bottle of Hoppe's. I don't use my good lube on it. Don't really ever fuss with it after that, certainly don't lube it regularly with the rifle.
1. Spring corrosion? That isn't a problem.
2. Noise in your stock? Your weapon discharging is a lot louder.
I've been an aircraft mechanic for over 17 years and everything made of metal will eventually corrode. The dry spring wearing the finish off the inside of the tube can't be a good thing. The noise in the stock I was referring to was when cycling the bcg by hand. It definitely is much smoother when there is a light coat of oil on the spring. I don't see how reducing the friction between the tube and the spring can be bad. Feel free to run yours dry though if that's your prerogative.
GeorgiaBoy
10-13-12, 18:23
I would think it would take an infinite amount of rounds to create enough carbon/crud to accumulate in the buffer tube due to lubricating the spring and buffer to cause any type of problem.
I lube mine with TW-25 grease once after cleaning, and don't do it again until the next cleaning. (Every 1,000 rounds or so)
Wormydog1724
10-13-12, 18:23
I never oil anything in my lower. Ever.
But after a few hundred rounds, oil from my BCG seems to have made it everywhere throughout, including the buffer, spring, tube, and FCG.
I think too many people are concerned with actually wearing something out that they forget this is a weapon meant to be used. Parts will wear out, after many thousands of rounds. Premature wear? Eh, I don't consider that to be a real thing. I use it, it wears, replace and repeat. Life isn't fair.
It won't make a difference either way.
I know I'm trolling with all this positive vibe shit... but Stick it just tickles me pink when you get in here and put in professional opinions, even when there ignored or rebuked..class act you also Grant!
I know I'm trolling with all this positive vibe shit... but Stick it just tickles me pink when you get in here and put in professional opinions, even when there ignored or rebuked..class act you also Grant!
We can all benefit from Stick and Grant's knowledge. When they say something, I pay attention. Everything I know about the M16/AR15, I learned from the Military, which wasn't very much. They gave me a comic book and a spray can of WD40.:fie:
Guns are supposed to be lubricated properly; this is how I lubricate my duty gun:
Inside upper receiver
Barrel extension
Oprod
Piston
Adjustable gas regulator
Charging handle
Ejection port cover spring and pin
Forward assist (never used, but it's a moving part)
Trigger springs
Selector switch and axle
Mag release
Bolt catch
Buffer and spring
Bolt carrier
Bolt
Firing pin and spring
Cam pin
The inside of the upper receiver and the bcg gets the most lube, the other parts get a "light" coating; enough so I can see the lube on there. Never had an issue.
As for the statement about getting dirt and debris accumulated in the receiver extension if you lube the spring, I find it highly unlikely based on my experience. That area does not get very dirty.
And again, excessive lube is mostly an issue for external parts on the AR, and for crew served weapons, in sandy/dusty environments.
I have never had an issue with weapons that are properly lubed. I have had and seen issues with dry guns, both crew served and AR's, in most environments, including in the middle of firefights (not my rifle, but weapons in my team).
The devil is in the details, and my advice is to be meticulous in your approach, to ensure proper function when you need your weapon the most.
When I install the buffer I hose the spring down with Breakfree CLP spray and then roll it on a dry shop rag to get the excess off and then install. Every few years pull everything clean buffer, spring and tube with Gunscrubber, braklleen, slip 725, etc. and then relube spring and install.
Look, there are so many thoughts and OPINIONS on how to clean and lube (what portion of) the platform. Bottom line is if you are counting on it for defense of yourself AND OTHERS, you need to be responsible and insure you have it in the proper state of cleanliness and lubrication.
Also, if you haven't noticed or caught the name, Arctic1 and Norway means it's cold and apparantly his gun isn't freezing. And yes, blah blah, he has a piston--which still has springs in it.
I've been an aircraft mechanic for over 17 years and everything made of metal will eventually corrode. The dry spring wearing the finish off the inside of the tube can't be a good thing. The noise in the stock I was referring to was when cycling the bcg by hand. It definitely is much smoother when there is a light coat of oil on the spring. I don't see how reducing the friction between the tube and the spring can be bad. Feel free to run yours dry though if that's your prerogative.
Most of the quality RE's on the market have a dry film lube on the inside of them.
The spring (with rolled edges) does zero damage to the inside of the RE.
In regards to the spring, this is a wear item (3,000rds) so the odds of it rusting before needing changed out is close to zero in my experience.
Unfortunately, I have logged more training ours in pouring rain than I can count. It is so bad that many of my friends assume that once I step foot on the range it will rain. :(
Point to the above is never once have I had a buffer spring rust.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/19438_104642779557085_834238_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/19438_104642776223752_3462805_n.jpg
C4
vicious_cb
10-14-12, 16:22
I never oil anything in my lower. Ever.
The FCG does benefit from oil. Look at geissle triggers for example, the manual says to grease the engagement surfaces and keep the pins oiled.
lifebreath
10-14-12, 17:09
The FCG does benefit from oil. Look at geissle triggers for example, the manual says to grease the engagement surfaces and keep the pins oiled.
Definitely helps, but not essential. I oil the FCG once in awhile and grease the sear surfaces.
Tried lubing the spring/tube, but found it just got dirty. Wiped it all off and have never done it again.
RogerinTPA
10-14-12, 17:34
It's self lubricating. Whenever I decide to clean, it's covered in dirty oil and carbon from the BCG...
Wormydog1724
10-14-12, 18:37
The FCG does benefit from oil. Look at geissle triggers for example, the manual says to grease the engagement surfaces and keep the pins oiled.
I only run Geissele Super 3 Gun triggers. Haven't had a problem in over 5,000 combined rounds (4,000ish on one and over 1,000 on the other).
Heavy Metal
10-14-12, 18:59
I put a few drops on the spring and buffer.
No need to go crazy, the lube won't burn off there and it IS the most sealed part of the action from a dirt perspective.
Inkslinger
10-14-12, 20:20
It's self lubricating. Whenever I decide to clean, it's covered in dirty oil and carbon from the BCG...
Exactly.
vicious_cb
10-14-12, 21:58
I only run Geissele Super 3 Gun triggers. Haven't had a problem in over 5,000 combined rounds (4,000ish on one and over 1,000 on the other).
You are probably causing accelerated wear on your trigger. You can ask Bill himself. Unless he says otherwise Im going to keep greasing and oiling my FCG.
My rationale for being so meticulous in my lubrication plan is to ensure proper function over time in demanding climates and terrain. In the case that dirt, sand, dust, snow etc gets into the action, it is still lubricated properly and will function.
I have seen failures to cycle in insufficiently lubed weapons, I have seen weapons seize up completely after being shot in an almost dry state in sandy/dusty terrain in the middle of firefights, I have seen selectors stop functioning from being bone dry, ie not rotating. All of the above problems were solved by applying lube.
Lube/oil has 4 properties/functions:
-Cooling
-Cleaning
-Protecting
-Lubricating
There are no parts that won't benefit from being lubed, in terms of the overall reliability of the firearm.
Littlelebowski
10-15-12, 07:28
I put a few drops on the spring and buffer.
No need to go crazy, the lube won't burn off there and it IS the most sealed part of the action from a dirt perspective.
Same here.
1. Spring corrosion? That isn't a problem.
It can be when you use stupid aftermarket CS springs instead of the correct USGI part. :rolleyes:
theblackknight
10-15-12, 07:52
The best part of the paul howe rifle vid is the cleaning section. He paints everything with a brush full of tw25b. " i like to lube the buffer spring bc I dont like that springy sound".
sent from mah gun,using my sights
TacticalSledgehammer
10-15-12, 08:12
I've never felt the need to lube the spring, buffer, or RE. It's never seemed like an area prone to need lube providing the interior of the RE not being damaged. Mind you I'm just a hobbyist shooter...
I've never felt the need to lube the spring, buffer, or RE.
Agreed. If you're lubing your action spring... read my SIG LINE!!! :)
TacticalSledgehammer
10-15-12, 08:23
Agreed. If you're lubing your action spring... read my SIG LINE!!! :)
Haha. I think for years people were criticizing the AR for needing to be clean and soaked in lube, and a lot of folks still think its the case. I've gotten to where I mainly lightly lube my bcg and that's pretty much it anymore. So far I've not had any problems. I'm also running a NiB BCG so I'm not sure if that helps or not.
misanthropist
10-15-12, 09:15
I was on a course in which a friend of mine was shooting a borrowed, new KAC SR-15 that did not run reliably until the buffer and spring were lubed, IIRC.
I recall that he was fairly frustrated by the issue because lubing the spring and buffer was certainly not the first thing he thought of, or attempted. I think it was eventually suggested by the instructor after all the obvious stuff was tried.
I fail to see how lubricating the buffer spring would have made the weapon more reliable. I never leave the Springer buffer on any of my weapons and they seem to be working 100 percent just fine. Maybe I'm missing something or do something wrong. :confused:
I was on a course in which a friend of mine was shooting a borrowed, new KAC SR-15 that did not run reliably until the buffer and spring were lubed, IIRC.
I recall that he was fairly frustrated by the issue because lubing the spring and buffer was certainly not the first thing he thought of, or attempted. I think it was eventually suggested by the instructor after all the obvious stuff was tried.
ALL springs require some lubrication to operate as designed.
it's just a matter of discretion in application of the lubrication of choice for that particular application...
for example: the valves in an auto/motorcycle engine require lubrication only where they contact their keepers.
"Springer" airguns can gain quite a bit of power simply by a proper lube job on the mainspring. the mainspring normally has a lot of contact with the receiver tube causing friction that interferes with the travel of the mainspring. the air gun industry has developed special lubes for air gun springs for that reason.
if you choose to lubricate i would do so, sparingly, with a lube that's specifically for springs.
Friction is not a good thing in any mechanical device. I lube the spring very lightly with a cloth that is damp with gun oil.
RogerinTPA
10-15-12, 11:43
The best part of the paul howe rifle vid is the cleaning section. He paints everything with a brush full of tw25b. " i like to lube the buffer spring bc I dont like that springy sound".
sent from mah gun,using my sights
To be honest, I've never heard the spring sound on any of my 5 ARs when fired, not even my A2 Sporter... with over 10K rounds on every one of them. I change out springs and things at the 5K interval. On active duty back in the day, yes on A1s and A2s, it was a pretty standard sound.
Curious, if your (anyone's) weapon makes the spring sound when fired, does the action spring need to be replaced?
TacticalSledgehammer
10-15-12, 11:48
Mine makes the sound and I think it's natural. I've had some that haven't made the sound also. J&T distributing sells a rubber piece that's designed to stop it but doesn't work good. It's called the twang buster.
To be honest, I've never heard the spring sound on any of my 5 ARs when fired, not even my A2 Sporter... with over 10K rounds on every one of them. I change out springs and things at the 5K interval. On active duty back in the day, yes on A1s and A2s, it was a pretty standard sound.
Curious, if your (anyone's) weapon makes the spring sound when fired, does the action spring need to be replaced?
FWIW, my S&W lower is quiet, my LRB lower is noisy. No real difference in care.
I have no field experience or real technical know-how from a professional perspective about lubing or not lubing the receiver extension, the spring, and buffer. However I did apply some Froglube onto the spring and buffer using a cloth and I did noticed that the twang sound has been significantly reduced along with the action of my DD M4V5 being far smoother than anything else.
To compare results, two of my friends run the exact same rifle and they've only Froglubed their upper receivers and bolts. When you rack their rifles there is more of a tooth/friction versus my rifle which feels far smoother, with almost no friction.
So far I haven't seen much crud build up in the receiver extension.
everyusernametaken
10-15-12, 12:57
I have observed that, when the spring and buffer assembly has a moderate amount of lubrication, the action is quieter, smoother, and less "draggy" when cycling by hand. I can't say for sure that there's no difference in spring noise when fired, but I haven't noticed one, nor was I expecting that.
I view this sort of thing as preventive maintenance, but it clearly isn't absolutely required. Lack of additional lubrication of the buffer/spring isn't likely to ever prevent the action from functioning on it's own, but I definitely consider lubing these moving parts as a good measure towards maintaining the overall system. I don't live or operate in a sandy or dusty environment, and I have never noticed any significant build-up in the RE, so cleaning considerations aren't much of a factor for me.
To be honest, I've never heard the spring sound on any of my 5 ARs when fired, not even my A2 Sporter... with over 10K rounds on every one of them. I change out springs and things at the 5K interval. On active duty back in the day, yes on A1s and A2s, it was a pretty standard sound.
Same here. After 29 years in this gun club I've shot A1's and A2's as well as the M4 I carried during my last trip to the great sand pit. The A1 and A2 without a doubt had that 'spring" sound when fired but I never noticed it with the M4. As for my personal M4 I just ran some frog lube paste over the buffer spring threw it in the over for like 10 minutes installed it and haven't touched it since. My middy runs great with that Springco blue and a H2 buffer for over 1500 rounds now.
misanthropist
10-15-12, 14:57
I fail to see how lubricating the buffer spring would have made the weapon more reliable. I never leave the Springer buffer on any of my weapons and they seem to be working 100 percent just fine. Maybe I'm missing something or do something wrong. :confused:
I could not tell you; I am only relating the fact that the weapon had issues until the spring and buffer were lubed, at which point it began to operate correctly.
I am not the owner of the gun, nor would I have thought of that as a possible source of issues. I was purely a spectator to the incident, but the gun definitely did not run to begin with. A number of fixes were attempted without success. It's possible that the gun was breaking in and the problems went away coincidentally after the spring and buffer were lubed, as I believe the weapon to have been brand new and almost never fired.
I would guess, based on the number of rounds I fired at that course, that the lube was applied somewhere around the 400 round mark. Prior to that the gun ran very poorly and the shooter was quite annoyed.
So whether one should have to lube their spring and buffer is not something I could tell you; obviously if your guns run well without lube there it's not always necessary. Maybe this particular gun was marginal to begin with, and a normal amount of buffer friction was still enough to disrupt cycling. Or maybe the .223 ammo I believe the owner to have been using was a little weak, and the gun broke in over 500 rounds and the lube was a coincidence. But there was clearly a point where the gun went from "runs terribly" to "runs fine" and it was right after the spring and buffer were lubed, unless I am remembering things incorrectly.
I have a message out to the guy who was actually shooting it so hopefully I will be able to get more details later today.
To be honest, I've never heard the spring sound on any of my 5 ARs when fired, not even my A2 Sporter... with over 10K rounds on every one of them. I change out springs and things at the 5K interval. On active duty back in the day, yes on A1s and A2s, it was a pretty standard sound.
Curious, if your (anyone's) weapon makes the spring sound when fired, does the action spring need to be replaced?
Strange how different people get different results. A5 System with brand spanking new (less than 300 rds) green springco spring and I get the sound. No big deal though.
-Jax
BufordTJustice
10-15-12, 16:43
I wonder how much "the sound" depends on what stock you're running? Using an LMT Crane stock or a Magpul STR, my A5 extensions make no noise like that. Maybe it's accentuated by a thinner stock in the cheek area?
RogerinTPA
10-15-12, 16:57
Strange how different people get different results. A5 System with brand spanking new (less than 300 rds) green springco spring and I get the sound. No big deal though.
-Jax
Agreed. I don't see it as function issue as it is an annoyance. Just curious as what is actually happening to cause that sound/vibration in certain weapons and not in others. Perhaps the buffer and or action spring has gone bad/worn and is momentarily hanging up, binding or ratcheting inside the RE.
You just reaffirmed my 'different results' post Buford T. I use a Crane on the A5. :confused:
-Jax
Agreed. I don't see it as function issue as it is an annoyance. Just curious as what is actually happening to cause that sound/vibration in certain weapons and not in others. Perhaps the buffer and or action spring has gone bad/worn and is momentarily hanging up, binding or ratcheting inside the RE.
Or imperfection inside the RE causing the spring and or buffer to slightly deviate from its intended path. I've never really noticed it except on this particular A5.
-Jax
militarymoron
10-15-12, 17:28
i've found that the 'smoothness' or amount of spring noise inside the receiver extension is also dependent on the finish inside of the RE. if you feel the inside of the RE, some are very smooth whereas some have light machine marks you can see and feel slightly. the rougher ones will have more 'scraping noise' from the spring as you pull back the charging handle. i've never noticed a difference in reliability between the two, but i just prefer a smoother feeling action when i pull it back.
Wormydog1724
10-15-12, 19:12
You are probably causing accelerated wear on your trigger. You can ask Bill himself. Unless he says otherwise Im going to keep greasing and oiling my FCG.
I probably am. Maybe in 50,000 rounds my trigger will be toast. Until then I'll keep oiling my BCG and letting that oil do its work on my FCG.
Mayhap I'm an idiot. I received my A5-Emod kit, the spring was liberally coated in grease, and I did not clean it, and have not since.
Compared to other ARs of various flavors that I have handled (not fired) mine is ghostly quiet when charging as compared to the others with bone dry springs and RE. All I could say to the others, "Mmmmmm....Gritty."
As far as the "Twang" noise - never listened for it. Might try on the next outing.
ClearedHot
10-17-12, 08:37
White lithium grease does help to remove some of the "twang" sound from the buffer spring when the weapon cycles.
misanthropist
10-17-12, 09:06
Well, not that anyone was holding their breath on this, but I spoke to the guy who ran the malfing KAC...
According to him the action improved after lubing the buffer tube, but it didn't switch immediately to a 100% gun, as I recalled. I thought all his problems went away at that point, but they were only reduced.
However the gun was a "parts gun" assembled in Canada to get around import/export issues that were common at the time, I believe. So KAC is maybe not entirely to blame for that set of issues.
Additionally, there was apparently some sort of crusted silvery goop inside the tube when it was cleaned...so the lubing may have been less important than cleaning out the guck.
If you pack the RE and spring with cosmoline it's much quieter! :blink:
No need. Clean out the RE and wipe down the buffer and spring. I guess if you wanted to, you could do the wipe down with a mildly oily rag for peace of mind/corrosion purposes.
White lithium grease does help to remove some of the "twang" sound from the buffer spring when the weapon cycles.
Well, my new DMR assembly (PSA A2 RE and Magpul PRS) sounds like someone is smacking the back of a guitar after every shot, and poorly tuned I might add. It is lubed with white lithium grease. Not gritty when charging anymore, just the twang when fired. It's actually getting kind of amusing.
Larry Vickers
11-18-12, 06:10
Maybe I'm old fashioned, or many of you on here have far more experience with military small arms than I do ( it is the Internet after all ) but I lubricate my weapon- particularly if I want it to work when my life is on the line
If you do or not frankly I don't care- as along as I don't have you as a teammate in a gunfight you can do whatever you want
We as human beings have known since man has been putting two pieces of metal in close contact with each other that dead dinosaur juice helps those metal parts function properly; with the advent of the Internet and thousands of keyboard commandos weighing in with their vast experience we somehow feel like that has changed
Drive on - do whatever the **** you want.....
LAV out
Light coat of oil on the action spring and buffer, just like I do all other metal-metal contact surfaces (except the BCG, which gets a heavy coat if I'm shooting) in my weapon.
It's not so much to catch crud in your weapon as it is to prevent corrosion.
Maybe I'm old fashioned, or many of you on here have far more experience with military small arms than I do ( it is the Internet after all ) but I lubricate my weapon- particularly if I want it to work when my life is on the line
If you do or not frankly I don't care- as along as I don't have you as a teammate in a gunfight you can do whatever you want
We as human beings have known since man has been putting two pieces of metal in close contact with each other that dead dinosaur juice helps those metal parts function properly; with the advent of the Internet and thousands of keyboard commandos weighing in with their vast experience we somehow feel like that has changed
Drive on - do whatever the **** you want.....
LAV out
Great post!
I'm just an old 11B so what do I know? I learned to clean my M-16 on Sand Hill with a guy in a funny hat yelling at me. I read all this info about how to clean and lube an AR, and the parts look the same, so somewhere in the back of my head, the voices of Drill Sergeant Lopez and Payne (yeah, I had a DI named Payne, and he did his best to live up to that) cry out to me.
"There's carbon on the firing pin." "You didn't lube the bolt and springs." "What the F***, rock?" You know, pleasant memories.
Back in those days, CLP meant easier cleaning later. So, I CLP'd the hell out of Cindy (amazing how I remember my DI's and rifle's names). I lubed everything, 'cause it made it easier to clean, especially after using those darned blanks. If it was inside the rifle, I lubed it. Not too heavy, mind you, but I lubed it. Today, I figure it's metal moving against metal, so lube would have to be a good thing.
I went shooting the other day, I didn't clean and lube my rifle. When I opened the safe, I could smell the dirty weapon. I dropped and gave myself fifty.
Maybe some folks are equating "lubrication" with "drowning in oil"...? I've always applied a light coat of oil to the buffer and spring. This thread reminds me of how many motorcycle riders never lubricate the chain.
I always wind up with oil from the BCG running back into the receiver extension from storing the gun muzzle up.
Never caused a problem, not sure if it helps...
Every now and then I'll wrap a paper towel around a bore brush and swab it out.
Lube it or not, I really don't think it matters either way.
ROUTEMICHIGAN
11-19-12, 02:04
Light spray of Ballistol on buffer and action spring for me.
A poster here mentioned using a little lithium grease on the buffer and spring, so I went and did it to the new A2 stock kit I just installed, and now it doesn't vibrate like a weird guitar. Also, it feels smoother.
Did the same thing to the carbine extension and buffer.
All this being said, should one worry about lubing the charging handle with grease or will it just gunk up once the gun gets shot again?
A poster here mentioned using a little lithium grease on the buffer and spring, so I went and did it to the new A2 stock kit I just installed, and now it doesn't vibrate like a weird guitar. Also, it feels smoother.
Did the same thing to the carbine extension and buffer.
All this being said, should one worry about lubing the charging handle with grease or will it just gunk up once the gun gets shot again?
Light coat of gun oil on CH for smooth operation.
That's what I have currently. Guess I'll keep it that way.
This thing has gone beyond silly. We all understand proper lubing procedures and what needs to happen. There have been plenty of threads regarding this subject. If you want to lube your action spring then go for it.
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