viperashes
10-22-12, 19:44
Cross post of my writeup on LFnet, I had another thread started ages ago when I initially meant to write this up, but for whatever reason, I can't seem to find it. Mods, move this to the appropriate location if I'm out of line here.
Originally posted by viperashes:
I've been wanting to make a stud board post for quite some time, but I wanted to A. Get my shit straight B. make a valid and intelligent post C. Review and evaluate a number of products and D. Offer insight on gear that people may actually be interested in buying/using
The basic specs for the weapon "system" I'm using have changed and evolved over the course of my ownership of this weapon. I'll address those changes as I get to the portion in which that piece of gear currently being used is discussed.
As of now, build specs are as follows:
Factory Primary Weapons Systems (PWS) MK110 SBR IN 5.56
LMT SOPMOD stock
Magpul MOE-K grip
Magpul BAD lever
BCM MOD4 charging handle
BAD INC short throw 45* selector with "standard" levers left and right
Geissele SD3G trigger that has been polished internally
Norgon ambidextrous mag catch
Gen2 MAGPUL MBUS
Aimpoint PRO with a killflash in a LaRue LT129 cantilever mount
Aimpoint magnifier in a LaRue LT649 cantilever flip mount
LaRue index clips
Cut Magpul XT rail cover
KAC VFG
Streamlight TLR1s with tape switch
AAC M4-2000 on a Blackout flash hider
http://i.imgur.com/VpbG5.jpg]
http://i.imgur.com/ZiyQq.jpg
Most of this equipment I've either owned for quite some time or purpose bought for this weapon. The SBR and suppressor were purchased together and were received by me in March of this year, so I've had a solid 6 months and close to 5000 rounds with variations of this setup.
Onto the important stuff.
PWS MK110 SBR:
This thing does not shit rainbows. But nobody ever expected it to. Initially, I was looking at a boringly reliable DDMK18 SBR. On a recommendation from a close friend and colleague, who I do believe posts here, I bought a PWS instead. I'm happy with my purchase, but not without incident. When I first bought the weapon, I shot the ever loving **** out of it. Mag dumps, full auto RDIAS hosting, whatever. Abuse the piss out of a $1500 rifle and see what happens. Well, I broke it. Technically I didn't, initially. It just wouldn't cycle properly with my M4-2000. I ran everything from a carbine to an H3 buffer and no beans. It just wouldn't slow down. Bolt over base, failures to eject, spun cases. I just couldn't win, so I called PWS.
I had a very pleasant conversation with them about what was going on, my documentation of the round count, both suppressed and unsuppressed, broken down by individual malfunction, ammo type, magazine used, ect. Scientific testing style. Long story short, the gun went in for about 3 weeks. I get it back after they rebuild the first upper, test fire and it goes back again. The previous upper destroyed the RE internally. It's a PWS "enhanced buffer tube" and although an A5 or standard RE would have worked, it's my first factory SBR and I wanted to keep it with as much OEM gear on it as I could, without sacrificing functionality.
It comes back the second time, I blow up the upper. Squib round acorns the barrel, the bolt shears 3 lugs, the barrel extension peens and the upper is ****ed, so the gun goes back again. PWS keeps me informed the entire time, does excellently with CS and expedites the weapon back to me with a brand new, freshly "custom" built upper. Since then, I've had zero issues. It feeds and fires all ammo that I've thrown at it boringly and tirelessly. .223 or 5.56, brass or steel cased, dirty, filthy lube, ect. I keep the rifle well lubed using froglube, which works excellenty, as we well know, so I won't get into that.
Being that this is a piston gun, the forend does get pretty warm pretty quickly. It gets ****ing hot. Not like an LE6920 hot, but like sticking your hand on a hot oven rack hot. Accoutrements reflect this accordingly and are used for this reason. It's also heavy. I don't have a "dry" weight, but kitted out the way I have it, loaded, it comes in at just under 10 pounds, using a super scientific "fatty on the floorboards" bathroom scale with an analog dial needle. Yes, it's heavy, but so are my balls, and I carry them everyday, the rifle isn't going on any long rucks.
The weapon came with the BCM CH as standard equipment, along with an MOE stock, grip and trigger guard, XT rail panels and the MBUS sights. The price tag is steep, but reflects well in accessories from factory. It also came with a Triad 3-prong flash hider, which works awesomely on another carbine, since it immediately came off for an AAC mount when it was transferred.
The PWS EBT is pretty nice and has 2 QD sockets on it at 3:30 and 8:30, as well as the weapon having 3 at 3, 6 and 9 on the integrated rail system. Overall, the weapon is solid and functions fantastically. I had a couple bad experiences initially, and almost gave up, but I'm glad I didn't. Even Colt has had a lame duck occasionally. It happens. It shouldn't and isn't excusable, but I do understand that shit happens.
AAC M4-2000 suppressor and Blackout flash hider:
The suppressor works, yup sure does. I'm not going to get into it much, but mine locked up solid with both the muzzle brake I originally had on my MK110 that now resides on my SPR and the flash hider it currently wears, both with the first latch, which failed like many have, and the current one. My suppressor is an M74XX serial number unit, which means its an earlier model M4-2000 than what is currently being produced.
I went with a muzzle brake mount initially, on the advisement of many, including posters here, because I expected to shoot the gun almost exclusively suppressed. That turned out not to be the case and I decided to mount it to a flash hider instead, since the concussion of a 10.5" SBR with a muzzle brake is rediculously obnoxious. Although the fireballs produced are fun. The can is going to wear, and although I can mitigate a lot of it using a muzzle brake, I'm not going to worry about it enough to warrant the deafeningly loud BOOM of an unsuppressed gun to save a wear item a tiny bit of service life. The blast baffle is worn, it's had a mild endcap strike. **** it, there's no POI shift at 500 yards and it does it's job. Beyond that, I don't care.
Aimpoint optics and LaRue mounts:
Great equipment. I love the PRO. And the price tag is right for a solid optic. The mounts are fantastic and Zero return is on point. I found the killflash in the bottom of a backpack I got from a buddy. The guy he got it from probably took it put of his CCO and forgot where he put it. Oops. So I kept it and put it in for shits and gigs.
LMT SOPMOD stock and MOE-K grip:
The stock is phenomenal, and it's weight keeps the ass down with that heavy front end. I think the weight of this rifle lends itself to the reason it's so accurate. It just doesn't flip at all and recoil is almost unfelt.
The K grip is a bit small. And slick. A stipple job might cure part of its weakness, but overall, the grip angle should be adopted by other makers as a template. Somewhere in the middle of the K grip and the gunfighter would be awesome.
Geissele SD3G, BAD ST selector and Magpul BAD lever:
The trigger has been reviewed ad nauseam elsewhere, so I won't. It's a great trigger, bit is it a valid HD gun trigger? It probably isn't the best choice, but I don't see why not. It's in my HD gun. And SD-C might be a better option though, I have 2 SD3Gs and an SD-C, the SD-C seems like it might be a better option for those that need a little more caution in their decision to pull. I plan on wasting whatever my target descrimination tells me I need to destroy. Gone. Dead. D.E.D.
The ST selector is AWESOME. Some of you may know that I do some testing for Battle Arms on some of their products. These are just fantastic kit, gents. Give them a look. As for the ST itself, it's very fast, from safe to fire and from fire back to safe. In a primarily CQB setup, fast is good.
It used to wear short levers, which were faster than standards, but harder to turn. Especially to safe from fire. I made the decision to try standard levers on both sides, learned to ride them like a 1911 safety, and love them to death for their positivity and speed. Between the SD3G trigger and ST selector, I don't think getting off the X is going to be an issue in a potential gunfight.
LaRue index clips, XT rail cover and KAC VFG:
The index clips are just plain ****ing cool. You can get the patriot can with RWB and make a flag or stripes or whatever. There's black, FDE, or even a camo kit. They do almost as well as KAC panels with heat, but are far more modular. These too could use a little stippling though.
The XT panel came with the rifle, I needed a solid bit of panel for behind the VFG and the fact that its rubbery and slightly squishy helped sell me o putting it on, but it was "free" since I already owned it and who likes spending unnecessary money? So I modified it to what I needed it to be.
The KAC VFG came about because I still owned it from back when I still carried and M4 for a living. This carbine used to wear an AFG2, but after repeatedly burning myself on the retention screw, I said **** that and went with this after also realizing that my Troy VFG is metal and gets ****ing hot. All plastic construction makes it pretty sweet when the gun heats up. This is the same reason my Gear Sector offset mount came off the gun.
I used to have the front MBUS all the way forward with my TLR farther back on the GS mount. I just got sick of burning myself and the stupidly awkward place my light sat, so I took it off, pushed the front BUIS back and 12 o'clock mounted the light all the way forward. No issues with it, although the lense gets sooty.
Really, this entire setup runs fantastic, has for right around 5000 rounds and continues to evolve. Everything done to it has bee out of purpose necessity and or fixing problems created by the precious accessory it was installed to replace.
I know I'm missing a few points here but it's 0200 and I have a small dog nuzzling me to turn off the lights and rack out.
http://i.imgur.com/wfbFs.jpg
Originally posted by viperashes:
I've been wanting to make a stud board post for quite some time, but I wanted to A. Get my shit straight B. make a valid and intelligent post C. Review and evaluate a number of products and D. Offer insight on gear that people may actually be interested in buying/using
The basic specs for the weapon "system" I'm using have changed and evolved over the course of my ownership of this weapon. I'll address those changes as I get to the portion in which that piece of gear currently being used is discussed.
As of now, build specs are as follows:
Factory Primary Weapons Systems (PWS) MK110 SBR IN 5.56
LMT SOPMOD stock
Magpul MOE-K grip
Magpul BAD lever
BCM MOD4 charging handle
BAD INC short throw 45* selector with "standard" levers left and right
Geissele SD3G trigger that has been polished internally
Norgon ambidextrous mag catch
Gen2 MAGPUL MBUS
Aimpoint PRO with a killflash in a LaRue LT129 cantilever mount
Aimpoint magnifier in a LaRue LT649 cantilever flip mount
LaRue index clips
Cut Magpul XT rail cover
KAC VFG
Streamlight TLR1s with tape switch
AAC M4-2000 on a Blackout flash hider
http://i.imgur.com/VpbG5.jpg]
http://i.imgur.com/ZiyQq.jpg
Most of this equipment I've either owned for quite some time or purpose bought for this weapon. The SBR and suppressor were purchased together and were received by me in March of this year, so I've had a solid 6 months and close to 5000 rounds with variations of this setup.
Onto the important stuff.
PWS MK110 SBR:
This thing does not shit rainbows. But nobody ever expected it to. Initially, I was looking at a boringly reliable DDMK18 SBR. On a recommendation from a close friend and colleague, who I do believe posts here, I bought a PWS instead. I'm happy with my purchase, but not without incident. When I first bought the weapon, I shot the ever loving **** out of it. Mag dumps, full auto RDIAS hosting, whatever. Abuse the piss out of a $1500 rifle and see what happens. Well, I broke it. Technically I didn't, initially. It just wouldn't cycle properly with my M4-2000. I ran everything from a carbine to an H3 buffer and no beans. It just wouldn't slow down. Bolt over base, failures to eject, spun cases. I just couldn't win, so I called PWS.
I had a very pleasant conversation with them about what was going on, my documentation of the round count, both suppressed and unsuppressed, broken down by individual malfunction, ammo type, magazine used, ect. Scientific testing style. Long story short, the gun went in for about 3 weeks. I get it back after they rebuild the first upper, test fire and it goes back again. The previous upper destroyed the RE internally. It's a PWS "enhanced buffer tube" and although an A5 or standard RE would have worked, it's my first factory SBR and I wanted to keep it with as much OEM gear on it as I could, without sacrificing functionality.
It comes back the second time, I blow up the upper. Squib round acorns the barrel, the bolt shears 3 lugs, the barrel extension peens and the upper is ****ed, so the gun goes back again. PWS keeps me informed the entire time, does excellently with CS and expedites the weapon back to me with a brand new, freshly "custom" built upper. Since then, I've had zero issues. It feeds and fires all ammo that I've thrown at it boringly and tirelessly. .223 or 5.56, brass or steel cased, dirty, filthy lube, ect. I keep the rifle well lubed using froglube, which works excellenty, as we well know, so I won't get into that.
Being that this is a piston gun, the forend does get pretty warm pretty quickly. It gets ****ing hot. Not like an LE6920 hot, but like sticking your hand on a hot oven rack hot. Accoutrements reflect this accordingly and are used for this reason. It's also heavy. I don't have a "dry" weight, but kitted out the way I have it, loaded, it comes in at just under 10 pounds, using a super scientific "fatty on the floorboards" bathroom scale with an analog dial needle. Yes, it's heavy, but so are my balls, and I carry them everyday, the rifle isn't going on any long rucks.
The weapon came with the BCM CH as standard equipment, along with an MOE stock, grip and trigger guard, XT rail panels and the MBUS sights. The price tag is steep, but reflects well in accessories from factory. It also came with a Triad 3-prong flash hider, which works awesomely on another carbine, since it immediately came off for an AAC mount when it was transferred.
The PWS EBT is pretty nice and has 2 QD sockets on it at 3:30 and 8:30, as well as the weapon having 3 at 3, 6 and 9 on the integrated rail system. Overall, the weapon is solid and functions fantastically. I had a couple bad experiences initially, and almost gave up, but I'm glad I didn't. Even Colt has had a lame duck occasionally. It happens. It shouldn't and isn't excusable, but I do understand that shit happens.
AAC M4-2000 suppressor and Blackout flash hider:
The suppressor works, yup sure does. I'm not going to get into it much, but mine locked up solid with both the muzzle brake I originally had on my MK110 that now resides on my SPR and the flash hider it currently wears, both with the first latch, which failed like many have, and the current one. My suppressor is an M74XX serial number unit, which means its an earlier model M4-2000 than what is currently being produced.
I went with a muzzle brake mount initially, on the advisement of many, including posters here, because I expected to shoot the gun almost exclusively suppressed. That turned out not to be the case and I decided to mount it to a flash hider instead, since the concussion of a 10.5" SBR with a muzzle brake is rediculously obnoxious. Although the fireballs produced are fun. The can is going to wear, and although I can mitigate a lot of it using a muzzle brake, I'm not going to worry about it enough to warrant the deafeningly loud BOOM of an unsuppressed gun to save a wear item a tiny bit of service life. The blast baffle is worn, it's had a mild endcap strike. **** it, there's no POI shift at 500 yards and it does it's job. Beyond that, I don't care.
Aimpoint optics and LaRue mounts:
Great equipment. I love the PRO. And the price tag is right for a solid optic. The mounts are fantastic and Zero return is on point. I found the killflash in the bottom of a backpack I got from a buddy. The guy he got it from probably took it put of his CCO and forgot where he put it. Oops. So I kept it and put it in for shits and gigs.
LMT SOPMOD stock and MOE-K grip:
The stock is phenomenal, and it's weight keeps the ass down with that heavy front end. I think the weight of this rifle lends itself to the reason it's so accurate. It just doesn't flip at all and recoil is almost unfelt.
The K grip is a bit small. And slick. A stipple job might cure part of its weakness, but overall, the grip angle should be adopted by other makers as a template. Somewhere in the middle of the K grip and the gunfighter would be awesome.
Geissele SD3G, BAD ST selector and Magpul BAD lever:
The trigger has been reviewed ad nauseam elsewhere, so I won't. It's a great trigger, bit is it a valid HD gun trigger? It probably isn't the best choice, but I don't see why not. It's in my HD gun. And SD-C might be a better option though, I have 2 SD3Gs and an SD-C, the SD-C seems like it might be a better option for those that need a little more caution in their decision to pull. I plan on wasting whatever my target descrimination tells me I need to destroy. Gone. Dead. D.E.D.
The ST selector is AWESOME. Some of you may know that I do some testing for Battle Arms on some of their products. These are just fantastic kit, gents. Give them a look. As for the ST itself, it's very fast, from safe to fire and from fire back to safe. In a primarily CQB setup, fast is good.
It used to wear short levers, which were faster than standards, but harder to turn. Especially to safe from fire. I made the decision to try standard levers on both sides, learned to ride them like a 1911 safety, and love them to death for their positivity and speed. Between the SD3G trigger and ST selector, I don't think getting off the X is going to be an issue in a potential gunfight.
LaRue index clips, XT rail cover and KAC VFG:
The index clips are just plain ****ing cool. You can get the patriot can with RWB and make a flag or stripes or whatever. There's black, FDE, or even a camo kit. They do almost as well as KAC panels with heat, but are far more modular. These too could use a little stippling though.
The XT panel came with the rifle, I needed a solid bit of panel for behind the VFG and the fact that its rubbery and slightly squishy helped sell me o putting it on, but it was "free" since I already owned it and who likes spending unnecessary money? So I modified it to what I needed it to be.
The KAC VFG came about because I still owned it from back when I still carried and M4 for a living. This carbine used to wear an AFG2, but after repeatedly burning myself on the retention screw, I said **** that and went with this after also realizing that my Troy VFG is metal and gets ****ing hot. All plastic construction makes it pretty sweet when the gun heats up. This is the same reason my Gear Sector offset mount came off the gun.
I used to have the front MBUS all the way forward with my TLR farther back on the GS mount. I just got sick of burning myself and the stupidly awkward place my light sat, so I took it off, pushed the front BUIS back and 12 o'clock mounted the light all the way forward. No issues with it, although the lense gets sooty.
Really, this entire setup runs fantastic, has for right around 5000 rounds and continues to evolve. Everything done to it has bee out of purpose necessity and or fixing problems created by the precious accessory it was installed to replace.
I know I'm missing a few points here but it's 0200 and I have a small dog nuzzling me to turn off the lights and rack out.
http://i.imgur.com/wfbFs.jpg