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kstr0h
11-05-12, 19:39
I have a few questions regarding doing this.

1.) what tools work best for cutting down the FSB to just be a gas block?

2.) will the cut down FSB fit under most rails?

3.) If i have a pinned Muzzle device on the rifle, will certain rails fit over it?

4.) If rails dont fit over it, do they make 2 piece rails? and would you suggest Free floating ?

Iraqgunz
11-05-12, 19:57
Use a Dremel with the heavy duty cutting wheel. Chop the frame off and then the bayo lug and sling swivel ears. Then cut the sides of the FSB down until you get to the rounded portion. For fine touch up I would use a belt sander or grinding wheel. Then hit it with some fine emery cloth and clean it up.

Then hit it with some hi-temp black paint.

From what I have seen lost rails will work. Centurion, DD and Troy come to mind. However, if you are using a rail with a proprietary barrel nut then you are screwed. Your best option is to use a Centurion or the Samson/Rainier Arms Evolution rail.

fallenromeo
11-05-12, 20:05
I have a few questions regarding doing this.

1.) what tools work best for cutting down the FSB to just be a gas block?

2.) will the cut down FSB fit under most rails?

3.) If i have a pinned Muzzle device on the rifle, will certain rails fit over it?

4.) If rails dont fit over it, do they make 2 piece rails? and would you suggest Free floating ?

1) never cut one down personally, but I have heard many people just use a grinder. However, if you have never done it before, I would recommend sending to a professional. Call ADCO, they do good work and their prices are reasonable.
2) If the FSB is trimmed correctly, it should fit under most rails.
3) yes, most rails should be large enough to fit over a pinned muzzle device. I actually can't think of a rail that won't fit over a muzzle device.
4) yes there are two piece rails. Centurion Arms C4 is the best free float quad rail out and is also 2 piece if my memory serves me right.

TomMcC
11-06-12, 02:23
I used a hack saw to do the rough cutting, it's actually very easy and quick. Then I used my Dremel with sanding wheels for the final shaping.

los
11-06-12, 07:55
I've only got half a lizard brain and my FSB mod came out great.

Dremel is a Man's best friend. Well,.. 2nd best friend. ;)

seb5
11-06-12, 08:46
I've always used a hack saw, then a bench grinder, then a dremel. Easy day.

uniform64
11-06-12, 09:40
I posted these before but this is pretty much following Iraqgunz's instruction.
14059

14058

bullittmcqueen
11-06-12, 10:29
Dremel or grinding wheel would be my two suggestions as long as you have a steady hand and can take your time to make it look nice. I did my FSP work with a grinding wheel. It's documented here if you want some pointers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMG3IP2KH6g&list=PLA8EF84B9B92EAAAB&index=2&feature=plpp_video

LRB45
11-06-12, 12:07
I know most say to spray it with high temp grill paint but was wondering if something like Aluma Hyde would work as well?

bullittmcqueen
11-06-12, 12:13
I used Brownell's AlumaHyde. I'm sure any gun coating or high temp black paint will work. That's just what I used.

MistWolf
11-06-12, 12:55
Make an appointment with Dr. Sawzall and Nurse Bighammers and git'er done!:moil:

Be careful using Dremel type tools to cut the FSB. The cutting wheels are small, thin and fragile. They'll get the job done but they break easily and can throw shrapnel like a grenade.

Don't use AlumaHyde on steel. I tried it on a handguard ring for a FAL and it ate away at the material. Use Perma-Blue instead

LRB45
11-06-12, 12:58
Which color would work best to match the barrel? Matte black or the parkerized gray? My son wants to cut down his FSP and I'm sure he doesn't care if it matches but I do.

Dave_M
11-06-12, 13:17
I took mine off, chucked it in a vice, and went at it with an angle grinder.

Painted with high-temp paint, re-installed. I didn't bother to, 'make it pretty' because it's under my NSR rail. Also, I generally don't care about, 'pretty'... hence what my ex-wife looked like :suicide:

Suwannee Tim
11-06-12, 16:56
Hacksaw and file. Maybe a bench grinder in between. With a hacksaw I can do the job in half the time with no expensive abrasive wheels, no dust, no eye hazard, little heat and no fire hazard (where that matters) versus Dremel. Bench grinder is good for rough shaping. File for finishing. The steel of the front sight base if relatively soft and cuts freely with hacksaw and file.