View Full Version : M&P Apex vs ATEi trigger?
Which do you prefer and why? Looking to get my first m&p and looking for people with experience with these. Preferably both. Thanks
never heard of the atie trigger,but i have the apex tactical aluminum trigger and can only say that it`s an extremely precise trigger!you can`t go wrong with one.if you can wait a few month`s they will have one made of plastic thats cheaper.good luck!
The down side to modifying the factory parts is that if you have to send the gun back to the factory for work, you CAN run into a problem with S&W.
C4
StrikerFired
11-22-12, 09:36
I don't haven't used the apex trigger, but I have ATEi triggers on all of my M&P triggers. Doug does an awesome job and the feel and reset are amazing. I guess if you did use the apex parts you could swap them out before you had to send a gun back to Smith, that could be a plus for some folks.
HardLuck682
11-22-12, 09:51
i have a M&P with Apex DCAEK, RAM and AEK Trigger. as a whole, it is awesome! there is no "grittiness" in the take up, and over pull is none whatsoever. the extremely short reset is nice, audible and tactile.
i have no experience with ATEi triggers at all.
snakedoctor
11-22-12, 10:32
IMHO, nothing compares to a Burwell trigger ;)
LowandLeft
11-25-12, 22:51
I have an ATEI trigger on my M&P and am in love with it. To me it's everything I want. Turn around was great and Doug was super easy to work with. The only downside is the shipping costs back and forth.
The only APEX trigger I've used is on a friends M&P and while it is crisp with a great reset the lbs was scary low. I was nervous even on a flat range. I'm not sure which kit it was, but it was expensive and changed the whole trigger assembly. For what it's worth!
HighSpeedDreams
11-25-12, 23:15
I'm with HardLuck. I have no ATei experience but recently installed the Apex kit (DCAEK, AEK Trigger, and RAM) and couldn't be happier.
Pull sits right at 5lbs, got rid of the "grit", and the reset is excellent (both audible and tactile).
The down side to modifying the factory parts is that if you have to send the gun back to the factory for work, you CAN run into a problem with S&W.
C4
Not sure what this is supposed to mean.
Maybe some should stay in their lane.
Apex is drop in and they make great stuff.
My trigger work is custom.
Not sure what this is supposed to mean.
Maybe some should stay in their lane.
When you send a gun back to S&W for warranty work (and the factory parts have been modified), S&W will do one of the following:
1. Not warranty the weapon.
2. Charge the customer for parts they change out (which is typically everything that was modified in the gun).
I simply made people aware that it is a good idea to always have the factory parts on hand so that you can put them back into the gun before sending it back.
If you are not modifying the factory parts, then disregard my comments.
C4
Havent tried an ATEi Trigger yet, however I really like my APEX FSS trigger. Makes my M&P's trigger feel more like 1911's.
Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act , look it up.
As far as what I do.
I only "modify" 2 pieces and those are polishing the trigger bar ramp and the factory safety plunger by adding a radius and polishing it.
BTW: The factory accepts this as a viable mod as they do it in the PC shop and it does not void any warranty.
P.S. Grant, this is not my first go around on the internet. The only reason you posted was to cast aspersions upon my work and you know it and so does everyone else.
Again, stay in your lane please.
Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act , look it up.
As far as what I do.
I only "modify" 2 pieces and those are polishing the trigger bar ramp and the factory safety plunger by adding a radius and polishing it.
BTW: The factory accepts this as a viable mod as they do it in the PC shop and it does not void any warranty.
P.S. Grant, this is not my first go around on the internet. The only reason you posted was to cast aspersions upon my work and you know it and so does everyone else.
Again, stay in your lane please.
If that is all you are doing to the factory parts, then you will most likely be ok with S&W CS. Then again, I have seen them refuse guns because they were stippled soooo.
In regards to your "work" I think you do good stuff and is why I am still running the slide you cut for me. ;)
In regards to "my lane" I have no idea what that means. This IS my lane. I am a S&W Distributor and I know just about everything there is to concerning their guns, policies and making them run reliably.
If you wish to continue rude remarks, feel free to send me a PM or e-mail.
C4
Try the pistol with the factory trigger first. From what I understand the M&Ps manufactured in 2012 have a much better trigger than previous years. I have an M&P9 that was manufactured in 8/2012 and the trigger is pretty darn good. I don't particular "shoot on the reset," but I can definitely feel the reset on this one. There is no grittiness to it, it's very smooth. I've shot M&Ps from previous years and the triggers are pretty meh!
So if you're buying a used one or new, check the manufacture date and try it first. IMHO
If that is all you are doing to the factory parts, then you will most likely be ok with S&W CS. Then again, I have seen them refuse guns because they were stippled soooo.
In regards to your "work" I think you do good stuff and is why I am still running the slide you cut for me. ;)
In regards to "my lane" I have no idea what that means. This IS my lane. I am a S&W Distributor and I know just about everything there is to concerning their guns, policies and making them run reliably.
If you wish to continue rude remarks, feel free to send me a PM or e-mail.
C4
I have owned more M&Ps than you can count on 2 hands, and S&W has tried to void my warranty on one of my Compact 9mms that had dead trigger issues because it was modified (professionally stippled, sights changed, PC Action Job). They even stated that the PC didn't do the trigger work and a modified striker block caused the issue..., although I have receipts (and I'm sure they have records). They SPECIFICALLY mentioned that I must use the gun really hard and its obvious I modify my guns BECAUSE it was stippled...After some choice words with the Manager of Customer Service/PC, they gave in and replaced the sear housing block.
Grant is correct in saying that S&W has tried to void warranty's and charge customers for parts on modified guns.
I have owned more M&Ps than you can count on 2 hands, and S&W has tried to void my warranty on one of my Compact 9mms that had dead trigger issues because it was modified (professionally stippled, sights changed, PC Action Job). They even stated that the PC didn't do the trigger work and a modified striker block caused the issue..., although I have receipts (and I'm sure they have records). They SPECIFICALLY mentioned that I must use the gun really hard and its obvious I modify my guns BECAUSE it was stippled...After some choice words with the Manager of Customer Service/PC, they gave in and replaced the sear housing block.
Grant is correct in saying that S&W has tried to void warranty's and charge customers for parts on modified guns.
LOL, so the S&W PC shop did the work (which in turn caused a dead trigger) and they tried to not warranty it?? Damn that is funny (and sad) all at the same time.
C4
Try the pistol with the factory trigger first. From what I understand the M&Ps manufactured in 2012 have a much better trigger than previous years. I have an M&P9 that was manufactured in 8/2012 and the trigger is pretty darn good. I don't particular "shoot on the reset," but I can definitely feel the reset on this one. There is no grittiness to it, it's very smooth. I've shot M&Ps from previous years and the triggers are pretty meh!
So if you're buying a used one or new, check the manufacture date and try it first. IMHO
This is true. Some polish work on critical areas and people would be amazed at how good it is.
C4
LOL, so the S&W PC shop did the work (which in turn caused a dead trigger) and they tried to not warranty it?? Damn that is funny (and sad) all at the same time.
C4
Yes they did the action work but stated the gun was modified ( they claimed the rounded striker block caused the issues and was very worn) and I responded with, of course, the PERFORMANCE CENTER did the action work and rounded the striker block. They also never could explain why the Striker Block would cause dead trigger issues. This was an older gun from the first batch of Compact 9mms made, so I'm sure the smaller sear plunger spring had worn enough to cause the sear to flutter. Also, no one I talked to had ever heard of dead trigger issues before...lol :blink: Thankfully no issues after the larger plunger/stronger spring was installed. :)
Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act , look it up.
How does this apply to the M&P discussion. I looked up the act and can't see how it pertains. S&W clearly marks their warranty as limited which gets it around the very few rules the warranty act places on folks.
And their manual includes this little gem:
Defects or malfunctions resulting from careless handling,
unauthorized adjustments or modifications made or attempted
by anyone other than a qualified gunsmith following Smith &
Wesson authorized procedures, or failure to follow the disassembly instructions in the Smith & Wesson manual.
If they want to be jerks about it they have a wide open path to deny you service on the handgun even with out modified parts if they say you re-assembled it against their instructions. Much less including modified parts that clearly give them an out for doing something aside from how they say it should be done.
Yes they did the action work but stated the gun was modified ( they claimed the rounded striker block caused the issues and was very worn) and I responded with, of course, the PERFORMANCE CENTER did the action work and rounded the striker block. They also never could explain why the Striker Block would cause dead trigger issues. This was an older gun from the first batch of Compact 9mms made, so I'm sure the smaller sear plunger spring had worn enough to cause the sear to flutter. Also, no one I talked to had ever heard of dead trigger issues before...lol :blink: Thankfully no issues after the larger plunger/stronger spring was installed. :)
Interesting. Typically, you have three layers at S&W. CS, Techs and Engineers. None of them talk to one another. So the techs and engineers could know what is going on, but the CS reps do not.
Unless the SB was shortened (greatly), this would never cause any problems. As you stated, the small sear plunger/spring coupled with the PC sear did you in. I warned S&W about his (repeatedly) as soon as I discovered it, but it took almost a full year to remedy the problem.
C4
Interesting. Typically, you have three layers at S&W. CS, Techs and Engineers. None of them talk to one another. So the techs and engineers could know what is going on, but the CS reps do not.
Unless the SB was shortened (greatly), this would never cause any problems. As you stated, the small sear plunger/spring coupled with the PC sear did you in. I warned S&W about his (repeatedly) as soon as I discovered it, but it took almost a full year to remedy the problem.
C4
I spoke to CS and some of the gunsmiths and they all denied any knowledge of the dead trigger issues. Of course they may have been full of it to try to deny warranty service. Now get them to remedy the auto forward Grant! =P
I spoke to CS and some of the gunsmiths and they all denied any knowledge of the dead trigger issues. Of course they may have been full of it to try to deny warranty service. Now get them to remedy the auto forward Grant! =P
I actually built a slide catch two years ago this Feb. and handed it to S&W at their Shot Show party. It would not allow the gun to autoforward and was still easy to release.
C4
I actually built a slide catch two years ago this Feb. and handed it to S&W at their Shot Show party. It would not allow the gun to autoforward and was still easy to release.
C4
You should of gave it to Apex instead.
Why don't you offer this part for sale. I think a lot of people could benifit from it.
You should of gave it to Apex instead.
Why don't you offer this part for sale. I think a lot of people could benifit from it.
LOL, at that time I did not know who Apex was. :D
I am not in the parts making business (sorry). S&W asked me for my opinion on how to fix the problem and I gave it to them (in the form of a working prototype).
C4
I would surely be in for one of those. If my 40 would auto-forward 100%, I would consider it a very useful feature; however, it doesn't auto-forward at precisely the wrong times.
APEX are you reading this??
LOL, at that time I did not know who Apex was. :D
I am not in the parts making business (sorry). S&W asked me for my opinion on how to fix the problem and I gave it to them (in the form of a working prototype).
C4
Haha I totally understand. You probably have enough irons in the fire already.
OTOH I am sure one of your awesome DIY write-ups would help some folks out! J/k (not really) :D
P.S. Grant, this is not my first go around on the internet. The only reason you posted was to cast aspersions upon my work and you know it and so does everyone else.
Again, stay in your lane please.
Dueling levels of :internetexperience: aside, given that the center of gravity of his statement was S&W's practices, exclusively, that's one hell of a reach.
Neither AETi nor anybody else's shop, nor work or components provided by ANY other organization or individual was impugned. You appear to have inferred otherwise because your company is included in the topic.
IF an aspersion is being cast at all (...which there isn't....), the statement would STILL put it on S&W, not AETi, nor Burwell, nor Apex, nor Milton-Hasbro, nor Sears, Roebuck & Co.
If your work doesn't void S&W's warranty, that's certainly worthy of being brought up for the benefit of potential customers of yours....
....including the one that posted the thread you hijacked over a nonexistant perceived slight.
LOL, at that time I did not know who Apex was. :D
I am not in the parts making business (sorry). S&W asked me for my opinion on how to fix the problem and I gave it to them (in the form of a working prototype).
C4
Shop it to Apex or TangoDown please! Cash in hand ready to pre-order.
Hendricks433
12-06-12, 09:47
I put in the DCAEK Kit from Apex except the USB and had Doug at ATEi just do the reset while he was doing night sights for me this week and the reset is significantly better. The reset is where its at for ATEi and one of the most crucial parts needed for the trigger.
I put in the DCAEK Kit from Apex except the USB and had Doug at ATEi just do the reset while he was doing night sights for me this week and the reset is significantly better. The reset is where its at for ATEi and one of the most crucial parts needed for the trigger.
Just wondering if there was a reason you did not install the Apex USB that comes with the kit, especially since you were having night sights put on?
The Apex USB with the DCAEK does clean things up considerably.
Hendricks433
12-06-12, 11:17
Just wondering if there was a reason you did not install the Apex USB that comes with the kit, especially since you were having night sights put on?
The Apex USB with the DCAEK does clean things up considerably.
I only had one USB and Doug did work on the USB's so I decided to keep them the same and just sell the Apex USB. Trigger is super clean and smooth and the reset is really distinct.
Just wondering if there was a reason you did not install the Apex USB that comes with the kit, especially since you were having night sights put on?
The Apex USB with the DCAEK does clean things up considerably.
I radius-ed and polished his stock plunger which I believe is better if someone has the option.
Understood. Radiusing and polishing will accomplish the same result.
I was under the impression the striker block was left in its stock form when reading his post.
Hendricks433
12-06-12, 11:58
Understood. Radiusing and polishing will accomplish the same result.
I was under the impression the striker block was left in its stock form when reading his post.
Sorry for the confusion.
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