View Full Version : Gas Block leaking
If a gas block is leaking gas, will it eventually seal it self from the carbon?
I have a 11.5 with lo pro and my hand is right over the gas block on the rail. After a 15 rd string of fire, the heat/gases from the gas block is too hot to hold. This only happens with high rd count strings. I'm not sure if its leaking from the gas block or gas tube connection.
I have 1000 rds though the gun and it has been 100%
Gas block is syrac ord.
Gas blocks get hot. Wear gloves.
Gas blocks get hot. Wear gloves.
Doesn't get that hot after only 15 rds and when under a rail.
If it's leaking, why not fix it or get it fixed?
When you installed it onto the barrel was it loose or did it take effort to put it on?
When you installed it onto the barrel was it loose or did it take effort to put it on?
It slide on pretty easily.
If it's leaking, why not fix it or get it fixed?
Because I want to know if its an issue and if it will seal it self.
The_Hammer_Man
12-14-12, 16:03
Aluminum or steel gb?
I've had aluminum gb's erode over time... sometimes, depending on ammo type it happens pretty fast.
One of the reasons I've gone exclusively to SS and CS gb's for my builds.
This is part of the reason for taper pins on the real FSB. As they're pushed into place, they PULL the FSB onto the port and help seal the system.
Evil Colt 6920
12-14-12, 16:39
It sounds like you have more than just a small gas leak that will seal itself. 1000 rounds is plenty of carbon to plug a small hole. Get a FSB and chop it down.
This is a Syrac Ord Adjustable Gas Block.
IMO that is your problem. The gas block should be tight fitting on the barrel.
It slide on pretty easily.
IMO that is your problem. The gas block should be tight fitting on the barrel.
So I'm assuming the FN/ST barrel or SYRAC is out of spec
I am thinking the gas block. The easy way to find out is to get another low pro block or FSB and slide into place and see how it goes.
So I'm assuming the FN/ST barrel or SYRAC is out of spec
I am thinking the gas block. The easy way to find out is to get another low pro block or FSB and slide into place and see how it goes.
Is it a major issue?
The rifle has run 100% for 1K rounds... so it spits a little excess gas.
I will assume the Syrac GB has a set screw, is it still tight? I have yet to see an AR that doesn't leak a small amount around the gas tube or from under an aftermarket block. The truly important issue here is whether or not the rifle is reliable, as to heat... even I am considering a pair of gloves for my 11.5" the AAC SPR M4 gets hot too!
I dearly wish Syrac made a clamp on style GB, my next 11.5 will be Noveske and the switchblock/pinned.
Good shooting
D
They do make a clamp one :)
If a gas block is leaking gas, will it eventually seal it self from the carbon?
I have a 11.5 with lo pro and my hand is right over the gas block on the rail. After a 15 rd string of fire, the heat/gases from the gas block is too hot to hold. This only happens with high rd count strings. I'm not sure if its leaking from the gas block or gas tube connection.
I have 1000 rds though the gun and it has been 100%
Gas block is syrac ord.
Other than the heat, what symptoms of leakage are you having? The gas block will get hot without gas leakage
Other than the heat, what symptoms of leakage are you having? The gas block will get hot without gas leakage
Its not the gas block that's "burning" me. Its the escaping gas.
TangoSauce
12-15-12, 13:45
Putting some clear nail polish around the gas block will help it seal faster, and the polish will just burn itself off.
If that doesn't work then replace the gas block as discussed above.
Putting some clear nail polish around the gas block will help it seal faster, and the polish will just burn itself off.
If that doesn't work then replace the gas block as discussed above.
Put some glitter nail polish on. Will shoot it next week.
They do make a clamp one :)
It's for a .750 seat, and the LW barrel has a .625... Oh well.
my 14.5 BCM middy leaks a bit around the sight...i am not worried, just use it.
As was mentioned, aluminum blocks are trouble.
I made one for my m4gery and after 3 mag dumps my gun stopped extracting. Couldn't see anything wrong, but didn't have any tools where I was to troubleshoot it either, so I packed it up.
Later, when looking at it after it'd cooled down, I heard a ringing sound when handling the gun - but couldn't figure out what was making it.
Turned out the aluminum grew faster than my stainless barrel, and walked itself off the port. The ringing was my front grip holder ring dinging around against the gas tube.
Here's the kicker: the gas block had shrunk (all metal shrinks after it's heated beyond a given temp), but now it was 1/4" forward of the port and frozen solid on the barrel. :eek: No amount of beating would get that thing to move. Had I known what the problem was in the field, I could've moved it back and that block probably would still be on the gun. Instead, I had to mill a slot in it, then split the block to get it to release.
Being somewhat lazy, and having a pinned and welded muzzle brake on the barrel - I moved it back into position and tigged the slot closed. That worked fine for another year before I decided I should really replace that ugly thing with something else.
The port was also heavily eroded from probably 800 rounds use. Not something that was going to improve with carbon build up. I won't be using aluminum ever again. It's simply not a good material for the application.
As was mentioned, aluminum blocks are trouble.
I made one for my m4gery and after 3 mag dumps my gun stopped extracting. Couldn't see anything wrong, but didn't have any tools where I was to troubleshoot it either, so I packed it up.
Later, when looking at it after it'd cooled down, I heard a ringing sound when handling the gun - but couldn't figure out what was making it.
Turned out the aluminum grew faster than my stainless barrel, and walked itself off the port. The ringing was my front grip holder ring dinging around against the gas tube.
Here's the kicker: the gas block had shrunk (all metal shrinks after it's heated beyond a given temp), but now it was 1/4" forward of the port and frozen solid on the barrel. :eek: No amount of beating would get that thing to move. Had I known what the problem was in the field, I could've moved it back and that block probably would still be on the gun. Instead, I had to mill a slot in it, then split the block to get it to release.
Being somewhat lazy, and having a pinned and welded muzzle brake on the barrel - I moved it back into position and tigged the slot closed. That worked fine for another year before I decided I should really replace that ugly thing with something else.
The port was also heavily eroded from probably 800 rounds use. Not something that was going to improve with carbon build up. I won't be using aluminum ever again. It's simply not a good material for the application.
I think syrac is steel.
I would pull the gas block and measure the barrel to be sure it's in spec. Once you've identified the gas block as being out of spec, send it in for replacement.
Did you dimple the barrel for the set screws when you installed the SYRAC? And how about loc-tite on the set screws?
Update to answer a few questions.
I loosened the gas block and it is a tight fit around the barrel.
It is not dimpled
I re-tightened it to where it sits at the shoulder of the barrel instead of 1mm forward of it.
I put some nail polish around it, gonna go to another class on Fri/Sat so we will see any thing is different.
I will not be shoot much nato this time though. The 1000 rds was almost 90% Fed m193
Update to answer a few questions.
I loosened the gas block and it is a tight fit around the barrel.
It is not dimpled
I re-tightened it to where it sits at the shoulder of the barrel instead of 1mm forward of it.
I put some nail polish around it, gonna go to another class on Fri/Sat so we will see any thing is different.
I will not be shoot much nato this time though. The 1000 rds was almost 90% Fed m193
If you have the set screw version (like I do), it is HIGHLY recommended that you dimple the barrel so that the set screws have a place to hold on to...it is actually in the instructions IIRC.
And don't forget the loc-tite...I used blue, maybe should have used red...but oh well. I've also heard to use rockset.
This is likely the cause of your problems.
Question for you...
My SYRAC was loose as well when sliding it on to the gas journal (part of barrel that has the gas port drilled). Did you find that yours shrunk down after getting it heated up like a previous poster mentioned? It's the first I'd heard of that, so I'm curious.
If you have the set screw version (like I do), it is HIGHLY recommended that you dimple the barrel so that the set screws have a place to hold on to...it is actually in the instructions IIRC.
And don't forget the loc-tite...I used blue, maybe should have used red...but oh well. I've also heard to use rockset.
This is likely the cause of your problems.
Question for you...
My SYRAC was loose as well when sliding it on to the gas journal (part of barrel that has the gas port drilled). Did you find that yours shrunk down after getting it heated up like a previous poster mentioned? It's the first I'd heard of that, so I'm curious.
I used rockset the first time but it was old so it still came loose. I used some new red this time. Im not sure if it shank. It does feel tighter than when I first put it on. However that could be cause by carbon.
I used rockset the first time but it was old so it still came loose. I used some new red this time. Im not sure if it shank. It does feel tighter than when I first put it on. However that could be cause by carbon.
When you pulled it off, could you see where the gas was blowing by?
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