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Badger89
12-16-12, 18:08
UPDATE 10/18/13:

Rather than starting a new thread, I am updating this one to hopefully address my question. About a year ago I began actively working on a build concept that I have been bouncing around in my head for quite a while. The purpose was (and is) to build a one-size-fits all, jack-of-all-trades, all-purpose go-to rifle. This has been a journey and a learning experience so far, and my plans have changed quite a few times, but the desired end result remains the same. To build the rifle I would choose if I could only have one rifle for the rest of my life (however long or short that may be given the reasons I may be grabbing said rifle). I am not trying to build the perfect rifle for any one specific purpose, I am trying to build a rifle that will perform adequately in as many conceivable scenarios as possible.

Here are my current goals:

Accuracy: 1 MOA (measured as a 10 shot group of Mk262 Mod 1 ammo)
Barrel Life: Accuracy not to exceed 1.2 MOA for 6,000 rounds of semi-auto fire
Effective Range: 0-600 meters
Reliability: As reliable as current technology allows - this is a "bet my life" gun
Features: Suppressor ready, low recoil, good round capacity, ability to mount a light, optic, and BUIS
Weight: TBD... as light as possible while meeting the above criteria (hoping for ~8lbs unloaded, w/ optics)
Length: TBD... as short as possible while meeting the above criteria


If my choice of the AR15 platform and 5.56mm caliber has not already been assumed, I will confirm that that is my decision. I believe the 5.56 AR15 platform is the best choice to meet the above goals.

I have already built my lower. Here is the parts list and reasons for my choices:

Lower Receiver: Seekins SP15 forged lower - forged 7075, type III class II anodizing, and dimensionally in spec as far as I can tell. M2 PMAGS drop free empty (have not tried loaded). It was available when I was looking to purchase and others weren't, and I like the machining on the front of the magwell.
LPK: White Oak Armament LPK with the addition of a Magpul Enhanced Trigger Guard, BCM Mod 1 grip, and BAD-CASS. Parts were selected due to availability, reputation, ergonomics and because I want the rifle to be at least partially ambidextrous for weak side shooting.
Trigger: Geissele SD-E. I wanted combat reliability first and foremost, but with more precision and a slightly lighter weight to better serve the shooter for longer shots (400, 500, 600 meters). According to Geissele's website, the SD-E also has a slightly shorter reset length than the SD-C. The flat bow was chosen for enhanced trigger "feel".
Stock: Magpul STR - chosen for a better cheekweld, storage capacity, shielded lever, moderate weight and the ability to fully collapse on a Vltor A5RE.
Receiver Extension: Vltor A5RE - chosen for use with the Vltor A5 system for recoil reduction and better performance with a variety of ammunition.
Buffer: Vltor A5H4 (will reduce to an A5H3 if necessary)
Spring: BCM rifle spring - chosen for reasons of availability
Castle Nut: BCM - chosen for reasons of availability
End Plate: Noveske QD - probably would have gone with the IWC QD end plate if it had been available when I purchased this, but I don't regret it.
*I properly torqued and staked the receiver extension.

I have purchased some parts for my upper and but still need the major ones. Here is my list:

Upper Receiver: Vltor MUR A1 - not purchased yet. I am leaning toward this over the Noveske MUR due to price, availability, and better compatibility with free-float rails if I want to change in the future. I plan to drill the hole for the Noveske anti-rotation pin.
Rail: Noveske NSR 13.5" - purchased for minimal weight and slim profile (small hands). I plan to cut the top of the rail for compatibility with the Noveske Switchblock (http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=123287) and mount the light and front sight ahead of the block if I have enough room, otherwise the sight will be mounted directly behind. Nothing will be mounted to the sides or bottom unless I decide to try a Grip Pod.
Charging Handle: Rainier Arms Raptor - purchased for reliability, ambidextrous ergonomics and to minimize the chance of pinching a finger. I also like the extended right side latch for easier charging when prone and supporting yourself with your left arm.
BCG: LMT Enhanced Carrier/LMT standard bolt - not purchased yet. I decided on the E-carrier to increase reliability across a broader range of ammunition, reduce recoil, and relieve gas pressure when suppressed. I am leaning toward the standard bolt at the recommendation of multiple members.
Barrel: Noveske 16" Recon barrel w/ pinned Switchblock - not purchased yet. I am heavily leaning toward this barrel to hopefully meet my goals for accuracy and barrel life. I am electing the Switchblock option to reduce recoil when suppressed, minimize added wear, and the ability to elect to use the rifle like a bolt action.
Muzzle Device: TBD... Will be chosen based on suppressor compatibility once I decide on a suppressor.
Optic: SWFA SS 1-6x24 - not purchased yet. Leaning heavily toward this option at the moment, but I sill have more research to do. I wish it were lighter...
BUIS: KAC folding 45* offset sights - not purchased yet. Chosen for the ability to quickly transition to irons without removing the scope, and the ability to deploy or fold down at will. To my knowledge they are the only folding offset sights currently available.


I'm pretty well set on all of the things I have already purchased, and feel like I have a pretty good plan in place. My only current concern is whether I should continue to wait for the Unicorn blood (Noveske barrel, LMT BCG) or buy something else and be done with it. Is the Switchblock, E-Carrier, and A5 system redundant? Am I over-compensating for suppressor use? I understand that I can run a suppressor just fine without any of these parts, but I do believe based on my research that each part improves reliability and function with a suppressor. The question is, at what point (if any) does it become redundant? Meaning, will I see no appreciable benefit to employing all three parts vs only employing two, or one? Or will I still benefit from each one, even if on a miniscule level?


Thanks for sticking with this long post. If you have any questions comments, or suggestions please share. Original post below.


****************************************************
PREVIOUS POST:

Hi everyone. I'd like to start my first AR build, but I'm looking for some outside opinions first. Feel free to comment on my parts list and critique any of my reasons for choosing a certain part. I'm not really looking for pats on the back here, or "nice job, looks good" (although if that's what you think I do appreciate it), I'm more looking to make sure the completed rifle will meet the purposes it's being built for.

So, onto the purpose of this rifle. Straight to the point, I want to build a combat rifle. 90% of this rifle's intended purpose will be as an all purpose, well rounded assault rifle that could be relied upon should the SHTF, civil war, WW3, whatever your personal beliefs are (I personally don't put my money on a zombie apocalypse, but to each their own). The remaining 10% of it's purpose will be as a target/training rifle to maintain my skills. Four key features I'm looking for, in order, are reliability, durability, accuracy, and quick handling (referring to a combination of weight, recoil management, and target acquisition). Now before you flame me, yes, I realize that there is a very good chance this rifle will never be used for its intended purpose, and if that's the case I am glad. However, I'd rather have and not need in this instance, than need and not have, regardless of how small the chance of needing is.

Goals:
100% reliability (not realistic I know, but I want to get as close as possible.)
Repeatable 1.5MOA accuracy or better
Effective range of 0-400 meters or more
7.5 lbs or less unloaded with optics (thinking my proposed optics will push me over that weight... :( )
Suppressor ready
Ability to maintain accuracy and reliability to a high round count before needing to replace parts (high meaning in the realm of what the best components on the market are currently capable of)
Ability to handle a high volume of semi-auto fire in a short period of time without damage, if necessary

Parts List:

Lower Receiver - Forged 7075 with a flared magazine well. Looking at either a Spikes Tactical or the Rainier Arms zombie edition, just to be different. :D Does anyone have any experience with the receiver tensioning screw on the Ranier Arms lowers? If they work I'd prefer that over using the buffer wedges that are easy to lose and usually make the receivers too tight...
Lower Parts Kit - I'm told Daniels Defense makes the best, but they're always out of stock. Also heard CMT/Stag and Rock River are good, and a little less spendy. What are your thoughts? I'd also be interested in a good kit minus the grip and trigger assembly, if there is such a thing. I'm not a fan of the basic grip or a gritty trigger... though I've never shot a DD, CMT/Stag, or RR trigger. I have heard excellent things about Geissele triggers.
Stock Kit - Magpul CTR Mil-Spec Stock Kit from Rainier Arms. $130, includes 7075 forged buffer tube, spring (which I will swap out for a Sprinco), H buffer, castle nut and endplate.

Upper Receiver - Armalite SPR Mod 1 Midlength. I'm pretty much sold on this one. Forged 7075, forward assist, dust cover, monolithic rail, interchangeable sides and bottom sections, includes barrel nut... what more could I want? Expensive and usually out of stock, but worth it I think.
Charging Handle - PRI Gas Buster Charging Handle with Combat Latch. Planning on doing the silicone mod as well.
Bolt Carrier Group - I would prefer a full auto BCG, just seems more reliable to me. The three big names I always here as "the best" BCGs are Colt, BCM, and LMT. LMT's have a MIM gas key, which if I understand correctly cannot be properly staked without cracking? I also think they are semi-auto only, right? So its down to BCM or Colt, BCM having the advantage on price and Colt on overall quality, from what I've read on here. Flip a coin?
Barrel - 16" Noveske N4 Light Recce with pinned Switchblock. This seems to be the best match for my accuracy and durability goals that I have found, as well as being suppressor ready. Settled on a 16" after not being able to find a pinned 14.5" with the pinned Switchblock available without buying the complete upper from Noveske. 16 inches should give me a little more energy & velocity anyway (a little less than half the difference between a 14.5" and a 20" IIRC?) and hopefully the extra inch and a half wont be that noticeable in weight or maneuverability. I'm not opposed to doing an SBR, I just don't think its the best choice for my goals. Feel free to persuade me if you think otherwise.
Flash Hider - AAC Blackout 51T Flash Hider. Enough said.

Sights - I've used metal back up sights before and liked them, but I'm sorta eyeing up the Magpul back up sights. Has anyone used them? I'm a little concerned about their strength/durability being plastic, but they are cheaper and probably lighter than iron sights. Either way, I want to swap out the front sight post for a fiber optic post. Are the Magpuls changeable?
Optics - Eotech 512 and a 3x magnifier on a flip-to-side mount. Do I need to use the Eotech magnifier or will other magnifiers/mounts line up? I think it's highway robbery what Eotech charges for their products... but I guess you can do that when no one else makes one. Reasons for settling on the 512 are: Parallax free, 65moa ring allows for rough distance estimation, AA batteries are easier to come by than CR123s and AA Lithiums last just as long. I thought about the 517, but I think I would prefer the buttons on the back rather than the side?
Dedicated 22LR Upper - Last but certainly not least, a CMMG 16" 22LR upper for more shooting for less coin without wearing out the good stuff. Cheap sights and/or a red dot/reflex sight of some sort to keep it similar to real set up.

So there you have it. I'm trying to keep the rifle simple and functional. I don't see the extra weight of grips, lights, lasers, etc... offset by the benefits (if any) they provide. Please let me know what you think, what you question, and what you'd do differently and why. While i do have a budget like anyone else, I'm trying to push it as much as needed/possible. I don't want to look back and think, "man, I should've spend the extra $$ and just gotten that." I'm also not entirely stuck on the AR-15 platform or the 5.56 cartridge for that matter. I settled on both for price, availability, and the fact that they are common and plentiful. And should the SHTF and I need a rifle, I don't want to have to scrounge for 6.5 Grendel rounds or parts for a European bull pup if something breaks. If you have a different suggestion, let me know. :)

graffex
12-16-12, 18:13
Armalite is garbage. Stick with BCM, Colt, DD, or Noveske. I prefer BCM but there all made properly with good components. You have lots of reading to do.

AKDoug
12-16-12, 18:38
BCM's are semi-auto only, meaning the firing pin is resseting the sear... this seems a little less reliable than a full auto BCG like the Colt and LMT where the carrier resets the sear. The BCM's I have purchased are FA carriers.

Badger89
12-16-12, 18:39
I agree they probably aren't on par with Noveske, but they aren't Bushmaster either. Seeing as its just a machined piece of aluminum with zero moving parts, I think I'll be ok. They are the only makers of a monolithic upper receiver that I can configure with or without rails on the sides and bottom, to my knowledge. Unless you know of another?

That and they also offer a lifetime warranty on all of their complete rifles and uppers, so I don't know if I'd go so far as to call them garbage... probably wouldn't still be in business if they offered lifetime warranties on garbage. ;)


Armalite is garbage. Stick with BCM, Colt, DD, or Noveske. I prefer BCM but there all made properly with good components. You have lots of reading to do.

Badger89
12-16-12, 18:42
The BCM's I have purchased are FA carriers.

Looks like you're right. Their site is listing them as full auto now, not sure if I just missed it before or what. Hmmm... Any reason to go BCM over Colt other than the price? (or to go Colt over BCM?)

Iraqgunz
12-16-12, 18:57
They were always F/A carriers. You were probably looking at the CMT's or LMT's.

They also aren't in stock so I suggest that you source another quality BCG and quickly.

You don't need a monolithic upper. I have an upper I built for someone with a free floating Centurion Rail and match barrel and he is able to shoot just over 1 MOA using good ammo and a scope.


Looks like you're right. Their site is listing them as full auto now, not sure if I just missed it before or what. Hmmm... Any reason to go BCM over Colt other than the price? (or to go Colt over BCM?)

Magic_Salad0892
12-16-12, 19:03
It seems like you should just buy an LMT MRP off the shelf. The one with slick sided rails.

BCM or AXTS charging handle.
Flip the rear for a KAC 600m rear.
ACOG.
Surefire light on a Gear Sector mount.

clmarshall21
12-16-12, 20:36
I found that the tensioning screw, when adjusted to do what it is designed to do, results in the takedown pins requiring more than just my fingers to get them out (very annoying). I would rather there be a slight "play" between the receivers as opposed to needing tools to break my two receivers apart. I simply leave the screw out. My lower is actually a Mega lower btw (I've read on a few occasions that Mega makes the lowers for RA so the tension screw system is probably similar or identical).

PalmettoStateArmory (PSA) sells LPKs w/o the FCG (or with various FCG and grip combos too if interested) and Spikes kits can be found in that configuration from a few different venders. Tough to catch these things while in stock sometimes though. Most kits come with a grip whether you like it or not... Could make you a good spare.

Why so set on buying a monolithic upper? I have never been able to understand what purpose they fill, but perhaps you can enlighten me.

Badger89
12-16-12, 20:38
They were always F/A carriers. You were probably looking at the CMT's or LMT's.

They also aren't in stock so I suggest that you source another quality BCG and quickly.

You don't need a monolithic upper. I have an upper I built for someone with a free floating Centurion Rail and match barrel and he is able to shoot just over 1 MOA using good ammo and a scope.

You're probably right. As far as finding one in stock, I figured the majority of the upper parts would be hard to come by. My goal is to build the lower, buy the CMMG 22LR upper and start shooting, meanwhile buy the upper parts I need as they become available. I'm willing to be patient.

My reason for wanting the monolithic upper comes from past experience trying to get optics to hold zero when half of them are on the upper and the other half are mounted on the hand guard (and it wasn't even free floated. :blink: ). Maybe it's more peace of mind than practicality, but there's not much price difference between the SPR Mod 1 and a quality forged upper and free-float railed hand guard, unless I'm looking in the wrong places?

NeoNeanderthal
12-16-12, 20:50
Easy, dont put half your scope on your rail and you dont need a silly monolithic upper. Armalite sucks anyway. DD has a good parts kit, so does G&R Tactical. You said you want 100% reliability so stay away from armalite.

If I were you i'd just buy an upper group from bcm or a gun from colt. Installing your own gas system can result in a less reliable gun if your not experienced. The high round count classes i've taken have taught me that the people who have problems are shooting garbage (dpms, bushmaster, stag) or have ****ed with their guns (just installed a new rail and my gas block is canted, ext). Dont be one of those guys.

clmarshall21
12-16-12, 20:51
...
My reason for wanting the monolithic upper comes from past experience trying to get optics to hold zero when half of them are on the upper and the other half are mounted on the hand guard (and it wasn't even free floated. :blink: ). Maybe it's more peace of mind than practicality, but there's not much price difference between the SPR Mod 1 and a quality forged upper and free-float railed hand guard, unless I'm looking in the wrong places?

Oh... Well that is where these come in handy...

http://www.americandefensemanufacturing.com/img/product/ce3bceccfdc7427b456f96056b53e8f3.jpg


Sure, the price difference between the mono and the standard may be nill.... The major difference is the fact that down the road, you are stuck with the mono handguard but the standard handguard can be swapped if you ever decide you want to try something new. However, mono uppers seem to be getting more popular so obviously some must have a purpose for them. :)

What optic/mount do you plan to use (I may have missed that somewhere)?

Badger89
12-16-12, 20:52
I found that the tensioning screw, when adjusted to do what it is designed to do, results in the takedown pins requiring more than just my fingers to get them out (very annoying). I would rather there be a slight "play" between the receivers as opposed to needing tools to break my two receivers apart. I simply leave the screw out. My lower is actually a Mega lower btw (I've read on a few occasions that Mega makes the lowers for RA so the tension screw system is probably similar or identical).

PalmettoStateArmory (PSA) sells LPKs w/o the FCG (or with various FCG and grip combos too if interested) and Spikes kits can be found in that configuration from a few different venders. Tough to catch these things while in stock sometimes though. Most kits come with a grip whether you like it or not... Could make you a good spare.

Why so set on buying a monolithic upper? I have never been able to understand what purpose they fill, but perhaps you can enlighten me.

Thanks for the advice! Right now I have a cheap DPMS flat top with a non-free floated four rail hand guard. I'm running BUIS and a Nikon Monarch 2.5-10x42 scope on a riser mount. The only way I can get the proper eye relief for the scope is to mount it with the front 1/3 of the riser mount on the hand guard, the rest on the receiver. It doesn't like to hold zero very well, and I doubt its the scopes fault. This build would have similar issues, needing space for sights, an eotech, and a magnifier. Since a hand guard, especially a free floating one, isnt rigidly attached to the receiver it allows a slight amount of movement between the two. (Rigidly in this case meaning not allowing any movement between the two parts.) Usually not a problem for CQB guys, but it can cause headaches trying to poke things out at 200+ meters. Just a combinations of what I've read and what my experiences seem to support, YMMV.

clmarshall21
12-16-12, 20:57
Oh ok this build will have the Eotech.

Shouldn't have issues getting it and a magnifier on the receiver together.. The rear sight when folded will lay beneath the magnifier in most cases.

Badger89
12-16-12, 20:57
It seems like you should just buy an LMT MRP off the shelf. The one with slick sided rails.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but should I need to replace the barrel on one of those down the road, I have to buy an LMT right? I didnt think they were compatible with your standard AR barrel...

Badger89
12-16-12, 21:00
Oh ok this build will have the Eotech.

Yep. And you're right, a cantilever mount would help me out on the DPMS, but I'm selling it, so I don't much care anymore. :happy: Might get one if I decide to keep the scope as an addition to this build, but I'm a little skeptical of the claims that they can be removed/remounted and retain zero...

Badger89
12-16-12, 21:06
Installing your own gas system can result in a less reliable gun if your not experienced.

I plan on assembling the lower myself (done it before) and having an armorer assemble my upper.

Out of curiosity, why the bad rap for armalite? I've never heard people say they were garbage until I came here... And, given that I'm only looking at an upper receiver (no BCG) is there really reason to worry? Not really any moving parts, unless you count the forward assist and dust cover.

clmarshall21
12-16-12, 21:09
...but I'm a little skeptical of the claims that they can be removed/remounted and retain zero...

I know we are a bit off of your original topic with this, but... They actually work quite well. I have the ADM Recon (like the pic above) and have never found any discernible zero shift. I have removed/replaced it many many times. But as they say, YMMV.

Badger89
12-16-12, 21:16
I know we are a bit off of your original topic with this, but... They actually work quite well. I have the ADM Recon (like the pic above) and have never found any discernible zero shift. I have removed/replaced it many many times. But as they say, YMMV.

I'll keep that in mind, thanks. I do love the scope, forgot to mention its a mil-dot as well. Might have to rethink my optics... maybe just an eotech, or some other 1x sight, and keep the scope handy for long range work. Of course then I wouldn't need a monolithic rail at all.....

TriviaMonster
12-16-12, 21:35
Too be honest, for the price of the Eotech, 3x magnifier, and the necessary mounts, you may be better served by just getting a quality 1-4x scope like many have switched to these days. I have shot a few different guns with them and they are very versatile. Plus for around the same money as you were going to spend, there are some wonderful options in 1-4x's. Oh yeah, it probably will weigh less too!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

stalker3
12-16-12, 22:38
If you have a different suggestion, let me know. :)

Sounds like you want someone to assure you that you should buy all this zombie internet crap you don't need. "well rounded assault rifle that could be relied upon should the SHTF, civil war, WW3" Sounds intense.

Buy a ready to go factory gun, train with it, learn it well and then decide if something needs changing.

MistWolf
12-16-12, 22:39
Skip the PRI Gas Buster and find the latest generation of the Gun Fighter charging handle. It has a small dam to divert any blow by and it's easy to apply silicone to any CH. The Gunfighter is a more durable design.

Rattle between the upper & lower does not have any practical affect on accuracy. You can separate the upper from the lower and re-join the two with no change at all to your point of impact. You can install the upper on a completely different lower with no change to the POI. A little rattle while installed isn't going to change anything.

As primary sights, the Magpul MBUS rear sight leaves a bit to be desired as it isn't consistent. However, there's nothing wrong in using it for a temporary back up if your optics fail. I have no experience with the front Mbus.

There is nothing wrong with stripped Armalite receivers. Where Armalite falls short with this crowd is the use of a 1/9 twist instead of 1/7 or 1/8. I think a standard upper with a good free float tube would be more practical than a monolithic upper. I don't know what the cost will be, but compare the cost of a monolithic upper to the cost of an upper plus tube and see which would be a better value. Whether or not you use a monolithic upper or not, you still have the added cost of mounts for the optics.

You could get a Geisselle SSA-E trigger for around $200 from Palmetto State Armory, or start with a good GI trigger. The GI trigger I got with my PSA lower parts kit was gritty and unpredictable. Until I removed it from the lower and lubed the sears, bottom curve of the hammer and pins with grease. Then it became much smoother and predictable. You could save yourself some money by using a GI trigger and lubing it. Or spend a little more for the ACT GI trigger which is made to higher quality standards.

Eotechs have a very short battery life. It would be better to get an Aimpoint. The Patrol is a good value and the H1 Micro is much smaller.

I've never tried the swing away 3x magnifier, but I think a good low powered variable would be more practical.

Instead of a dedicated 22 LR upper, just get the CMMG adapter. It will let you shoot 22 LR in your current upper using your current sights. I have one for my carbine. Just give the chamber a bit of a scrubbing after shooting the 22s. Mine is accurate enough to bounce empty shotgun shells out to 100 yards and break clay pigeons past 200.

Look around. You should be able to find Aero Precision or LRB lowers for under $100. PSA lowers are right at $100 and mine has a modest flare to the magwell.

However, at the end of the day, a good basic carbine would serve your purposes well
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/Carbine.jpg

jstone
12-16-12, 23:42
If you want an upper that is roughly the same aw the Armalite but much higher quality get the vltor vis. The upper that Armalite is using is the aero precision COP ( continuous optics platform ). I have handled the Armalite complete upper you are talking about, and the quality is lacking. The way the bottom piece locks on to the top it is loose. There are gaps where the upper, and lower piece comes together. The only two true monolithic upper you can get now come from lmt, and colt.

If you want a monolithic with slick sides get the lmt. There are a couple people that can put any ar barrel on the mrp. If you want a spare barrel just buy one from lmt. Then if you shoot out the other it is a matter of loosening two bolts remove old barrel. Replace with new barrel, and tighten. I have one of the cqb mrp's it has a chrome lined barrel, and it will consistently shoot 1 moa.

Im not sure where you plan on getting the barrel. I have only seen chrome lined barrels at a couple places. The stainless barrels are the barrels that are the most readily available. You can get the CL barrels, but they are hard to find with the switch block. I looked for one for months before i gave up.

You should just order a noveske upper, and build your lower. You can get everything you want that will be assembled by one of the best in the business. You can get the noveske with the vltor vis, (if you have not seen it check it out it is basically the same setup as the upper your looking at) a full auto BCG, and you can get the switch block. The only requirement it is lacking is the modular side rails, but if you can wait the vltor vis key mod will be coming out.

What ever you do stay away from that Armalite upper. If your going for quality that upper is not quality.

Magic_Salad0892
12-17-12, 02:27
Correct me if I'm wrong, but should I need to replace the barrel on one of those down the road, I have to buy an LMT right? I didnt think they were compatible with your standard AR barrel...

Yeah. But there are shops out there that'll convert any barrel to an LMT MRP barrel.

grunz
12-17-12, 04:28
You won't like this.

You are going down the road of wasting a huge amount of time and money to build some fantasy gun for a fantasy scenario. You also fun the risk of improperly assembling this thing and making it unrealiable.

So...

For 1600 bucks budget go buy a stock factory DDM4V5.

For 2100 bucks budget go buy a Noveske N4 16" with 13.5 NSR rail.

For 1995 bucks you can order one if those Travis Haley jack AR and get a 200 credit for training with Travis

BTW your gun w be 99.99999 used for training/ plinking/ hunting...

Blak1508
12-17-12, 08:21
I agree with the above poster, as someone who was in your position once upon a time the same advice was given me. I think your best bet on a quality AR would be to buy a complete, then as you get more comfortable break the rifle all the way down to understand the internal operations. I would even suggest a Rainer Arms complete. For what your looking for it would fit the bill, along with the DDV5.
Some people learn the hard way with their first AR and some take the great advice given here and are more then content with their new AR. Just my 2

wahoo95
12-17-12, 08:34
Thanks for the advice! Right now I have a cheap DPMS flat top with a non-free floated four rail hand guard. I'm running BUIS and a Nikon Monarch 2.5-10x42 scope on a riser mount. The only way I can get the proper eye relief for the scope is to mount it with the front 1/3 of the riser mount on the hand guard, the rest on the receiver. It doesn't like to hold zero very well, and I doubt its the scopes fault. This build would have similar issues, needing space for sights, an eotech, and a magnifier. Since a hand guard, especially a free floating one, isnt rigidly attached to the receiver it allows a slight amount of movement between the two. (Rigidly in this case meaning not allowing any movement between the two parts.) Usually not a problem for CQB guys, but it can cause headaches trying to poke things out at 200+ meters. Just a combinations of what I've read and what my experiences seem to support, YMMV.

And herein lies the problem...you misunderstand what "Free Float" means. Quality Free Floating Handguards ARE rigidly attached via various barrel nut lock up systems and not attached to the barrel so that barrel is allowed to "free float" without being affected by being in contact with the handguard. SO if you use a quality free float handguard like Daniel Defense, Centurion, Noveske, Rainier, Samson, Troy, Barnes Precision, etc. you won't have any issues if you need to mount your optic using a "One Piece Mount" straddling the upper receiver and Handguard. I actually prefer to mount my optics straddling the receiver and handguard as seen here on this latest rifle I'm working on.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb244/a996hawk/photobucket-16198-1355450392015.jpg

Badger89
12-20-12, 00:09
Thanks for all the comments. I was thinking I had reached a pretty good decision, given the responses I got and the fact that I was planning to pay someone to assemble the upper anyway, to build a lower and then wait and hope Noveske comes out with a 14.5" pinned or 16" complete upper with a switchblock and the upcoming Vltor Keymod receiver. It would've been everything I wanted, removable rails, lighweight, and already assembled with the barrel and gas system I wanted. But given the current political atmosphere and the fact that I can no longer seem to find anything "assault rifle" related in stock ANYWHERE, looks like it'll just be me and my Glock 17 for the foreseeable future... :cray:

thehun
12-20-12, 00:31
Please...do not use the word Assault Rifle..as you will never own a real assault rifle...don't be an internet ninja please

Badger89
12-20-12, 00:44
Please...do not use the word Assault Rifle..as you will never own a real assault rifle...don't be an internet ninja please

It was sarcasm. Hence the quotation marks. Last time I checked real assault rifles were select fire.

Blak1508
12-20-12, 09:45
Yeah we know it was sarcasm, but you have to understand right now even sarcasm/jokes are not funny specially in a world where everybody is staring at you with a microscope. This will blow over and you will get your armalite rifle. Just be patient.

Bulletdog
12-20-12, 17:58
I read and re-read your first post. Your "Goals" are spot on.

The "Parts List" is much too complicated in my opinion. Just get a complete gun or a complete lower and a complete upper with the barrel profile you are interested in from one of the top tier companies, and be done with it.

I have tried some other brands and now realize why people reocommend Colt, BCM, LMT, and Noveske so much. You can run yourself ragged hunting up all these different parts from all over the place and hope that they somehow all work together, or you can just buy a quality upper and lower, stick them together and enjoy lots and lots of shooting with no malfunctions.

Badger89
10-18-13, 03:13
Rather than starting a new thread, I am updating this one to hopefully address my question. About a year ago I began actively working on a build concept that I have been bouncing around in my head for quite a while. The purpose was (and is) to build a one-size-fits all, jack-of-all-trades, all-purpose go-to rifle. This has been a journey and a learning experience so far, and my plans have changed quite a few times, but the desired end result remains the same. To build the rifle I would choose if I could only have one rifle for the rest of my life (however long or short that may be given the reasons I may be grabbing said rifle). I am not trying to build the perfect rifle for any one specific purpose, I am trying to build a rifle that will perform adequately in as many conceivable scenarios as possible.

Here are my current goals:

Accuracy: 1 MOA (measured as a 10 shot group of Mk262 Mod 1 ammo)
Barrel Life: Accuracy not to exceed 1.2 MOA for 6,000 rounds of semi-auto fire
Effective Range: 0-600 meters
Reliability: As reliable as current technology allows - this is a "bet my life" gun
Features: Suppressor ready, low recoil, good round capacity, ability to mount a light, optic, and BUIS
Weight: TBD... as light as possible while meeting the above criteria (hoping for ~8lbs unloaded, w/ optics)
Length: TBD... as short as possible while meeting the above criteria


If my choice of the AR15 platform and 5.56mm caliber has not already been assumed, I will confirm that that is my decision. I believe the 5.56 AR15 platform is the best choice to meet the above goals.

I have already built my lower. Here is the parts list and reasons for my choices:

Lower Receiver: Seekins SP15 forged lower - forged 7075, type III class II anodizing, and dimensionally in spec as far as I can tell. M2 PMAGS drop free empty (have not tried loaded). It was available when I was looking to purchase and others weren't, and I like the machining on the front of the magwell.
LPK: White Oak Armament LPK with the addition of a Magpul Enhanced Trigger Guard, BCM Mod 1 grip, and BAD-CASS. Parts were selected due to availability, reputation, ergonomics and because I want the rifle to be at least partially ambidextrous for weak side shooting.
Trigger: Geissele SD-E. I wanted combat reliability first and foremost, but with more precision and a slightly lighter weight to better serve the shooter for longer shots (400, 500, 600 meters). According to Geissele's website, the SD-E also has a slightly shorter reset length than the SD-C. The flat bow was chosen for enhanced trigger "feel".
Stock: Magpul STR - chosen for a better cheekweld, storage capacity, shielded lever, moderate weight and the ability to fully collapse on a Vltor A5RE.
Receiver Extension: Vltor A5RE - chosen for use with the Vltor A5 system for recoil reduction and better performance with a variety of ammunition.
Buffer: Vltor A5H4 (will reduce to an A5H3 if necessary)
Spring: BCM rifle spring - chosen for reasons of availability
Castle Nut: BCM - chosen for reasons of availability
End Plate: Noveske QD - probably would have gone with the IWC QD end plate if it had been available when I purchased this, but I don't regret it.
*I properly torqued and staked the receiver extension.

I have purchased some parts for my upper and but still need the major ones. Here is my list:

Upper Receiver: Vltor MUR A1 - not purchased yet. I am leaning toward this over the Noveske MUR due to price, availability, and better compatibility with free-float rails if I want to change in the future. I plan to drill the hole for the Noveske anti-rotation pin.
Rail: Noveske NSR 13.5" - purchased for minimal weight and slim profile (small hands). I plan to cut the top of the rail for compatibility with the Noveske Switchblock (http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=123287) and mount the light and front sight ahead of the block if I have enough room, otherwise the sight will be mounted directly behind. Nothing will be mounted to the sides or bottom unless I decide to try a Grip Pod.
Charging Handle: Rainier Arms Raptor - purchased for reliability, ambidextrous ergonomics and to minimize the chance of pinching a finger. I also like the extended right side latch for easier charging when prone and supporting yourself with your left arm.
BCG: LMT Enhanced Carrier/LMT standard bolt - not purchased yet. I decided on the E-carrier to increase reliability across a broader range of ammunition, reduce recoil, and relieve gas pressure when suppressed. I am leaning toward the standard bolt at the recommendation of multiple members.
Barrel: Noveske 16" Recon barrel w/ pinned Switchblock - not purchased yet. I am heavily leaning toward this barrel to hopefully meet my goals for accuracy and barrel life. I am electing the Switchblock option to reduce recoil when suppressed, minimize added wear, and the ability to elect to use the rifle like a bolt action.
Muzzle Device: TBD... Will be chosen based on suppressor compatibility once I decide on a suppressor.
Optic: SWFA SS 1-6x24 - not purchased yet. Leaning heavily toward this option at the moment, but I sill have more research to do. I wish it were lighter...
BUIS: KAC folding 45* offset sights - not purchased yet. Chosen for the ability to quickly transition to irons without removing the scope, and the ability to deploy or fold down at will. To my knowledge they are the only folding offset sights currently available.


I'm pretty well set on all of the things I have already purchased, and feel like I have a pretty good plan in place. My only current concern is whether I should continue to wait for the Unicorn blood (Noveske barrel, LMT BCG) or buy something else and be done with it. Is the Switchblock, E-Carrier, and A5 system redundant? Am I over-compensating for suppressor use? I understand that I can run a suppressor just fine without any of these parts, but I do believe based on my research that each part improves reliability and function with a suppressor. The question is, at what point (if any) does it become redundant? Meaning, will I see no appreciable benefit to employing all three parts vs only employing two, or one? Or will I still benefit from each one, even if on a miniscule level?


Thanks for sticking with this long post. If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions please share.

Badger89
10-19-13, 23:48
... crickets huh?

jerrysimons
10-23-13, 10:05
Sounds great! Really looking forward to pics!
Just make sure to hash out its reliability with all the tuning you are doing.

Concerning your question: Many people seem to get along just fine running suppressed without a switchblock, with less tuning than the heavy A5 buffer and LMT enhanced carrier gives you. Conceptually the E-carrier is somewhat redundant with the switchblock, but is more of a symptomatic treatment whereas the switchblock goes right to the source at the gas port. Granted I think you would see the most benifit from a switchblock running suppressed on full auto, as its design is to reduce cyclic rate, and the switchblock adjustments are per-set for this usage.
If you are looking to achieve the ultimate tuning threshold for semi-auto you might be better served with an outright adjustable gas block like the one Grant runs. You would also not have to cut up the NSR rail to fit it.