Bow hunters...

[J-Dub]

I want to get into bow hunting (Elk and deer). Should I buy a package deal?

Should I just go to Cabelas and get measured and buy a package setup?

Im a gun guy, I know almost nothing about compound bows. I've actually shot a lot with recurves but for hunting i'd like a compound.


Suggestions?

[ryan]

Go to a Pro Shop, not Cabelas.

[ridgerunner70]

You need to start off by you not picking the bow , but allowing the bow to pick you. Go to a archery shop and shoot as many different hunting bows you can. Go back in a few days and shoot the ones that fit you the best and start narrowing it down from there. You will need to be measured for draw length this will help you anchor in the right spot everytime for consistent accuracy. Find somebody that can shoot with you and coach you through untill you are comfortable on your own. Bowhunting is my favorite hunting it allows you to get close and personal with the game your hunting.

[ryan]

I would stay away from package deals because generally the sights, rest and quiver are junk.

Are you hard on hunting gear? If so pony up the jingle for good stuff.

I shoot Hoyt bows, recurves and compounds, but others make good stuff too. Take a hard look at the Bear Motive 6/7 and Anarchy.

SpotHogg bulletproof sight, QAD drop away rest etc.

I hate my quiver being on my bow, I use a CatQuiver II.

I shoot footed Easton 330 Bloodlines in my compound and footed Easton ST Excel 400 in my Recurves.

I hate mechanical broadheads, I shoot Muzzy 3 blade 100 grain heads in my compound and Grizzly single bevels in my recurve.

I have killed 6 does with my RazorTec so far this year and waiting to connect with the recurves.

[J-Dub]

I knew I'll need to be measured and "fit" to a bow. Most of the pro shops around here dont have ranges. If I cant shoot it before purchase, is that a huge deal?

Also Im not looking to drop 1k on a bow setup. Maybe 600 for the entire bow setup (not including arrows, target, ect). I dont need the latest and greatest. Just something that will work, and work well.

And no, I take care of my gear.....

[ryan]

Its a deal breaker if you cant shoot it first.

Both of my local pro shops have a place to shoot it, one has a full on 3-D course and a TechnoHunt.

I'd be willing to bet the Proshop has some where you can shoot the bow.

For economical bows Bear, Diamond, Mission, Martin and PSE mainline bows are great values.

[Japeatr]

Bowtech for me! But i agree shoot all of them, price shouldnt even be mentioned until you find one you like

[ryan]

Bowtech for me! But i agree shoot all of them, price shouldnt even be mentioned until you find one you like

My wife shoots a Diamond (by Bowtech) Razor Edge, great bow the amount of adjustment it has is incredible.

[Watrdawg]

I shot 4-5 different bows and settled on a Hoyt. My brother did the same thing at the same time and he picked a Matthews. We shot the same bows and had different opinions of each. This is a good example of why others are saying shoot various bows and pick what you like best. Once you have done that then choose sights, arrow rest, arrows etc. You will save yourself some money and possible frustration compared to a package setup that may not suit your needs or actually function for you properly.

[J-Dub]

Makes sense. Kinda like building an AR. I'd rather pick and choose exactly what I want rather than just getting what they offer on a package bow.

Already making plans to head to a pro shop with a 20yd range..

I'd like to be practicing all spring to prep for hunting season.

[bgoode]

Invest in your local bow shop relationship. You will need that partnership when your bow isnt shooting like it should because it isnt tuned and fitted to you.

The bowshop will make sure you are set up and serve you when your bow needs re-tuned.

[southernZ]

Agreed with the guys above. Do not just go and buy a bow because of its brand. Shoot as many bows as you can and get one that "fits" you the best. And try not to get sold on to the "its a 330 fps bow" deal, speed is not everything. When shooting take mental notes of how loud each bow is, that is what counts. Also, plan on "growing" into the bow. Get whatever you can pull back comfortably from a sitting position using only your strong arm (ie. right side for a right handed shooter). The more you shoot the easier it will be to pull back. You can always set it heavier later on if you desire. All too often I see people pushing with the weak hand, and pulling with their strong hand. Imagine having to do that with a few old wise does on high alert at 20 yds. That will be much tougher than one fluid motion just using your strong arm. Compounds are a whole different ball game than traditional bows. Last season I did not touch my compound. I only hunted with my longbow. And man it took a while this past summer when I picked up my compound to get back in the groove. Good luck!

[J-Dub]

Well I found my shop in Ft. Collins. Should be able to get geared up next month.

[crossgun]

Ever think about a crossbow? If that might be on the table let me know I would be happy to help you out. I have been in the crossbow/archery industry for 25 plus years.

www.camxcrossbows.com

What all the guys are saying is spot on. If you have to start all over then visit the Pro Shop. Let me know your draw length in a PM. Maybe I can help you out with something used I have that will save you some money and allow you to get your feet wet while you figure out what you really like. Without starting somewhere there is no way to know what you want and dont want. Shooting a few arrows will not be the end all in selection.

Like ARs you can spend a little or a lot of money and drink the kool-aid. End of the day they all fling an arrows and fling bullets.

Its always the dude behind the trigger in the end.

[J-Dub]

I have no idea what my draw length is...

[dfbaseball]

Go to a reputable archery shop and get measured. Make sure you shoot the bows you're interested in too. If it were me, I'd go ahead and have someone measure your wingspan and divide it by 2.5 to get a spot check on your draw length before you go just so you don't get duped by someone. Unfortunately some people think they can just tell you the draw length you need when in reality it's all they have in stock and they're trying to make a buck.

[J-Dub]

My wingspan divided by 2.5 is 29.4. The "fist up against the wall measurement" is 27 3/4".

[$CashMoney$]

Stick with the "wingspan" technique. There may be some minor adjustments from there based on where / how you choose to index your release, but that will get you the closest measurement.

[Gutshot John]

Go to a Pro Shop, not Cabelas.

Nuff said right there.

[SIGFORALL]

60lb peak draw wieght is all you need for a hunting bow. Lots of nice new bows to choose from. Shoot as many bows as you can, take notes, go home, read notes, go back and shoot your top 2 or 3 bows, repeat as necessary. Your bowshop pro will GLADLY help you with this process. A new top of the line bow with accessories will cost you $1300.00 or more.

You can save a TON of money buying a used bow already set-up for 1/3rd the cost of new.

If I were shopping for a new bow I would shoot PSE, Hoyt, Bowtech, Mathews and Elite bows

http://www.hoyt.com/compound_bows/details/spyder+turbo

http://pse-archery.com/c/pro-series-compound-bows_dream-season-dna_dream-season-dna-black?action_type=switch_product&selected_cat_keys=1039717.1039721.1039768.0.0&selected_product=588d3478071aa539aaddaf2e815029bc&redirected_post=1

Good luck, have fun!

[J-Dub]

Well I picked up my first bow today. PSE Stinger 3D. Out the door for less than 500 (totally rigged up w/arrows).

Bought it from a great shop in Ft. Collins, Gannett Ridge.

So now to practice all summer and get ready for Elk this September.

[Skill_Kills]

sounds like a good deal. when i bought my bow a few weeks ago that one was recommended but they were out of them. I went with a Bear Encounter out the door and ready to hunt for 600