View Full Version : Rail hand guard???
Well I'm totally new to ARs and need some advice..I want and need a hand guard with rails on it..I would like it to be as long as it can be on my gun and not over priced. What can y'all recommend?? Again I'm totally new to this..here is my current rifle
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/21/vyperu8y.jpg
And I'd like just a full 4 rail hand guard..also are they relatively easy to changeout? Thanks!
You either have to get a low profile gas block are get a 7 or 9 inch rail depending on your gas system.
You either have to get a low profile gas block are get a 7 or 9 inch rail depending on your gas system.
so i have to keep my front post sight on? thats one thing i didn't wanna do..can i get a 7 or 9 inch rail and take the front post sight off?
You either have to get a low profile gas block are get a 7 or 9 inch rail depending on your gas system.
This is just not true.
I would recommend a 12" Centurion C4 Rail - it attaches to your stock barrel nut: http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2509
You can cut down and "shave" the FSB so that the extended rail will fit.
If you don't want to do that Centurion also makes a C4 rail that allows you to keep the FSB intact, but also allows for the rail to extend past the FSB: http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2975
If you wanted slick/tubestyle rails that can mount on the factory barrel nut I would check out the 13" VTac TRX Extreme Alpha Rail:
http://www.vikingtactics.com/rifleacc_troyalpharail.html
Tutorials on YouTube on how to cut/shave your FSB:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5rPPyYdFUs
*Note: a dremel can be used; there are threads/video tutorials all over the place on how to cut down your FSB*
This is just not true.
I would recommend a 12" Centurion C4 Rail - it attaches to your stock barrel nut: http://www.rainierarms.com/page=shop/detail&product_id=2509
You can cut down and "shave" the FSB so that the extended rail will fit.
If you don't want to do that Centurion also makes a C4 rail that allows you to keep the FSB intact, but also allows for the rail to extend past the FSB: http://www.rainierarms.com/page=shop/detail&product_id=2975
Tutorials on YouTube on how to cut/shave your FSB:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5rPPyYdFUs
Yeah what he said. I forgot about those rails.
what low profile gas block would be recommended?? id like to keep stock parts for resale value down the road. or if i wanna ever put the front sight back on. only how are the troy battle rail hand guards? they are cheaper then the one mentioned above... should i get a clamp on or a set screw type one?
how is this one?
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/JP-Adjustable-Gas-Block-low-profile-p/jpgs-5.htm
Toyoland66
12-20-12, 20:39
A shaved down fsb is the superior option due to it being taper pinned onto the barrel. The aftermarket gas blocks will be attached via either set screws or clamp on.
That being said, how many rounds have you put through the rifle and how have you found the stock hand guards lacking?
Secondly, why do you want to get rid of the fsb? The fixed fsb is the most durable option, again due to it being taper pinned to the barrel. Running a fsp rail (like the centurion previously linked) will allow you to retain the fixed fsb and gain a longer rail and the ability to mount a weapon light at 12:00.
Finally, don't go cheap on your colt, the more expensive rails are more expensive for a reason.
I mainly don't want to shave down the fab because if I ever wanna use it again I can. And I just want a full flat top rail system. Dose anyone sell a shaved down fsb?? And when you say cheap rail dose that include the Troy? Or is it a pretty good rail?
Toyoland66
12-20-12, 20:48
The troys are decent hand guards but they are heavy, the trx extreme is a more favored option but is a slick side rail rather than quad rail.
Why do you want a flat topped rail, is it an aesthetic choice or is there some sort of mission driven requirement you have in mind?
A shaved down fsb isn't as simple as swapping it out for another, the fsb and barrel and drilled and taper reamed as an assembly. If you swap on another taper reamed gas block or fsb the holes likely won't line up.
Well mainly for the length on the bottom for a handle and still have room for a bipod. Using this gun as a coyote killer..also have light mounted on side and of course a sight which could be done with a smaller rail just want room for bipod and handle
Shaving down the FSB is honestly your best option, or a rail with a FSB cut-out.
The 12" rail will give you a longer sight radius, and allow you to get your support hand further out along the barrel to give you extra support.
Go with the 12" Centurion C4; you won't regret it...
Toyoland66
12-20-12, 21:07
http://www.centurionarms.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=123&Itemid=154
The fsp rail is a 12" rail with a cutout on top that allows the fsb to poke through. It can be installed with minimal gun smithing, the only modifications required are cutting off the delta ring and handguards cap which can be done with the upper completely assembled. Swapping a gas block will require removal of the flash hider and fsb (obviously).
You can run a pistol light such as a x300 or tlr-1 at 12:00 in front of the fsb.
Would you recommend doing that or just cutting the fsb down and going with a flat rail..I also may mount a scope for long range shooting and won't the fbs get in the way of the scope? I don't mid taking off the fsb and what not..I wanna learn to work on these rifles!
Would you recommend doing that or just cutting the fsb down and going with a flat rail..I also may mount a scope for long range shooting and won't the fbs get in the way of the scope? I don't mid taking off the fsb and what not..I wanna learn to work on these rifles!
It won't be in the way of a scope, you won't even notice it at magnification.
There are a wide variety of hand-guards out there. There's always going to be trade-offs with your selection. The longer you go with full rails, the heavier it will be. Generally speaking the cheaper you go, the heavier it will be. The Troy tubular hand-guards have rail sections that can meet your needs, as can the DD MFR, etc. just do as much research as you can and balance the cost, weight, features, use of proprietary barrel nuts, etc.
Budget may drive some of your decisions. But keep in mind that if you're going with a free float rail, lo-pro gas block and rail mounted sights, make sure the rail lock-up is SOLID. I had a Troy TRX extreme that after a while (not so hard use and removal a couple of times for repositioning of rail sections) became ever so slightly out of alignment which threw off my iron sight zero. I never could get it right, so I ditched it.
As far as lo-pro gas blocks go, there are a lot of the out there. Make sure you get the right size and choose a set screw model. Dimple the barrel under the set screws. DD, BCM, Troy, Vltor, etc offer these.
All that being said, unless you're determined to go with a LPGB, I think I would go with the Centurion 12" w/ FSB cutout and save the hassle.
Thinking of going with the cutout now it will allow for enough space to add the grip on bottom and a bipod which I don't think the 7 inch would..and I can all the other stuff I would like to have..dose anyone have pictures of the cutout rail on a ar??
Toyoland66
12-20-12, 22:10
Some google images (http://www.google.com/search?q=centurion+c4+fsp&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=vuDTUKIbiaPZBebVgcgH&biw=1024&bih=672&sei=wuDTUP_uH8KO2gXvk4HwCQ)
I think the fsp rail is a good choice and gives you a lot of flexibility while being easy to install.
Do y'all think doing the rail with the cutout would be better then just go ahead and cutting down my fsb? Or should I just go ahead and cut down my fsb and get a full flat top like I originally wanted? I will most likely never use iron sights as I coyote hunt at night and need some sort of lighted dot like a red dot
Do y'all think doing the rail with the cutout would be better then just go ahead and cutting down my fsb? Or should I just go ahead and cut down my fsb and get a full flat top like I originally wanted? I will most likely never use iron sights as I coyote hunt at night and need some sort of lighted dot like a red dot
I would cut down the FSB; you can add flip-ups to your rail.
I chose the DD Omega rail. It's only 7", but it drops in pretty easily without having to permanently change anything and it's a quad rail. It's also pretty lightweight, but very strong and from a top tier company. I have three uppers with these and couldn't be happier with them.
I run a red dot and that front sight post just sort of disappears. It bothered me when I first picked up the gun at home, but 5 minutes into my first class and I forgot it was even there. This was three years and several classes ago and I'm still running it and loving it. I run a TLR1 for light and was able to make some nice groups on an 8" disc at 200 yards in total darkness on a moonless night during my last night class... What I'm saying is that it will work well for coyotes, day or night.
Do y'all think doing the rail with the cutout would be better then just go ahead and cutting down my fsb? Or should I just go ahead and cut down my fsb and get a full flat top like I originally wanted? I will most likely never use iron sights as I coyote hunt at night and need some sort of lighted dot like a red dot
You have stated several times you want a full rail without the cutout, so I would do just that or you always wished you would have. Shave down the FSB, get the rail of your choice and take your time installing it with the proper tools in the directions. Get it setup like you want the first time and you won't end up doing it over and over and wasting money like so many before you. Post some picks with the new setup and later a pic with your rifle and a coyote.
Do y'all think doing the rail with the cutout would be better then just go ahead and cutting down my fsb? Or should I just go ahead and cut down my fsb and get a full flat top like I originally wanted? I will most likely never use iron sights as I coyote hunt at night and need some sort of lighted dot like a red dot
I think you're putting form over function (just my opinion). If you go with the Centurion cut out rail, modification to the rifle will be minimal. You stated earlier that you wanted the full rail so that you could add a vertical grip and a bipod. You state above that you need a red dot. So it sounds to me as though your set up could serve two purposes. If you add magnified optics, the FSB will disappear in your sight picture, and if you go with a red dot, you can select a tall mount for lower third co-witness of the irons.
Build it the way you want. I just don't think it's a good idea to permanently alter the FSB by cutting it down. Do it properly.
On my first AR I wanted a long, fully railed rifle. My staring point was a DD v2 (FSB and 7" Omega X). I replaced the gas block with a LPGB, 13" TRX Extreme and Troy BUS). That gun is now in it's original configuration, because ultimately realized that it was great the way it was. I couldn't have done that had I hacked up the FSB.
I'm not trying to offend those who choose to shave their FSB, just stating my opinion.
I think you're putting form over function (just my opinion). If you go with the Centurion cut out rail, modification to the rifle will be minimal. You stated earlier that you wanted the full rail so that you could add a vertical grip and a bipod. You state above that you need a red dot. So it sounds to me as though your set up could serve two purposes. If you add magnified optics, the FSB will disappear in your sight picture, and if you go with a red dot, you can select a tall mount for lower third co-witness of the irons.
Build it the way you want. I just don't think it's a good idea to permanently alter the FSB by cutting it down. Do it properly.
On my first AR I wanted a long, fully railed rifle. My staring point was a DD v2 (FSB and 7" Omega X). I replaced the gas block with a LPGB, 13" TRX Extreme and Troy BUS). That gun is now in it's original configuration, because ultimately realized that it was great the way it was. I couldn't have done that had I hacked up the FSB.
I'm not trying to offend those who choose to shave their FSB, just stating my opinion.
I'm just trying to do the rail right the first time so I don't have to buy another...I just don't know if I like the idea of my fsb being in my sight picture..but I'm new to ARs all my other guns just have a sight on them..so that's what I'm use too..and then I'm nervous about the low profile gas block because people say they don't stay and place and will move..
Toyoland66
12-21-12, 08:53
Do some reading on co-witness, the purpose is to have a back up set if sights so that if your optic malfunctions you can transition to the iron sights and continue shooting. It is really mission driven and ultimately up to you but like others have stated having the front sight visible in the optic isn't really a distraction.
IMHO a barrel that came from the factory with a pinned fsb should either retain the fsb or shave it if you need something low pro to fit under a rail. Swapping a low pro in its place is a downgrade and unless you get an extended gas block the front taper pin hole will likely be visible on the barrel.
I don't see shaving the fsb as being a big deal even for resale, I consider it the proper way to do it, and the demand is out there for the continuous rail look. You still have the option of running a flip up front sight or a fixed front sight on the rail.
It just depends on how much you want to mod the gun.
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