View Full Version : Shiny brass?
preacherJohn
01-08-13, 07:20
How in the world do you get your brass to shine like new again? I use a tumbler (Lyman) with crushed walnuts and corn cob that I buy at pet stores. I also add a little liquid wax or chrome cleaner that is an automotive product. The best I can get is a lighter color looking brass. What am I doing wrong that won't produce that factory shine? Is there some more steps in the tumbling process that I'm leaving out? Or is it a fact that a tumbler won't produce this factory luster that I'm trying to achieve? I tumble about 4+ hours a load. :blink:
Time and polish. With your current setup you can achieve a shine but it takes a good polish like Flitz and many hours but I've heard "pet store" media is NOT the same beast.
preacherJohn
01-08-13, 07:43
Time and polish. With your current setup you can achieve a shine but it takes a good polish like Flitz and many hours but I've heard "pet store" media is NOT the same beast.
What media should I be using then? And where can I find it? I've never heard of Flitz. Where is this polish found, is it an auto product? Do you add it to your tumbler, or polish your brass by hand?
How in the world do you get your brass to shine like new again? I use a tumbler (Lyman) with crushed walnuts and corn cob that I buy at pet stores. I also add a little liquid wax or chrome cleaner that is an automotive product. The best I can get is a lighter color looking brass. What am I doing wrong that won't produce that factory shine? Is there some more steps in the tumbling process that I'm leaving out? Or is it a fact that a tumbler won't produce this factory luster that I'm trying to achieve? I tumble about 4+ hours a load. :blink:
Stainless tumbling.
I know that you're talking about doing batches in a tumbler, but when I was a kid, I used to keep individual cartidges shiny and new looking with a pencil eraser (yes, my borderline-OCD was apparent even as a child)...
Maybe you could try tumbling with a bunch of pencil erasers...?
I tumble with medium corn cob & a squirt of Cabelas brass case polish, it gets them bright & shiny but I let them run all day while at work or while doing other things.
I run them much longer than your average reloader, but I like them clean & shiny & I don't really care if I wear out a tumbler before its time. I intend to convert to stainless pin media when my current tumbler dies anyway.
preacherJohn
01-08-13, 08:28
Stainless tumbling.
I always thought stainless media was meant for those water tumblers. So you're saying I can use the stainless media in a regular ole vibrating tumbler? That would rid all that dust from the other media. And do you need to add any type of polish with stainless media if you use it in a tumbler?
Some people use some sort of liquid wash. Not sure how to make it though. I gave up trying to get mine to shine.
I always thought stainless media was meant for those water tumblers. So you're saying I can use the stainless media in a regular ole vibrating tumbler? That would rid all that dust from the other media. And do you need to add any type of polish with stainless media if you use it in a tumbler?
Stainless pins are for liquid tumbling.
Hornady tumbler, RCBS walnut media w/o any additive, and Flitz tumbler additive. I throw in a ripped up piece of damp paper towel to keep the media clean and the dust down. If I keep the number of .223 cases under 200 and tumble for about 4 hours they shine like glass, annealing marks removed and everything. I typically tumble 300 cases for 2 hours and they end up pretty damn clean.
Stainless tumbling.
This. I don't work with nasty brass EVER any more.
There's no real functional gain.... but if you take pride in your work, it's worthwhile.
Agree with markm that there is no functional gain. But the shiniest brass I ever got (looked brand new) was using Lyman's Turbo Brass Treated Corn cob, with a couple tablespoons of Frankford Arsenal's Brass Polish. I let it run only two hours in my RCBS tumbler. Both items available at MidwayUSA.
A capful of NuFinish car polish in with the Cobb media and brass.........
From what I have read Stainless is supposed to be the be all end all for recycling nasty brass into like new polished brass.
However if you don't have the setup it can get pricy.
I have found that (at least with dry tumbling using vibratory type) cleaning really bad brass with walnut helps a lot. The walnut is coarser and seems to excel at cleaning. However it can leave behind a bit of dust, and leaves the brass with a dull but clean finish. For mirror polishing I tumble again using corn cob with nufinish and mineral spirits. I also let it got a fairly long time if Im looking for what my dad refers to as "show grade" brass.
halfkorean
01-08-13, 11:54
I use a Thumlers tumbler and stainless steel media and my brass looks brand new. Even old brass that has been sitting on the ground at the range awhile that gets gathered up will look new.
The only issues would be the initial cost, the time (as I tumble for 2 hours then drying time), the tumbler is pretty loud, and the pins get stuck in the flash holes every one in awhile (because I deprime before I tumble so the primer pockets get clean).
My friends are all amazed at how clean and shiny my cases are.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
The only issues would be the initial cost, the time (as I tumble for 2 hours then drying time), the tumbler is pretty loud, and the pins get stuck in the flash holes every one in awhile (because I deprime before I tumble so the primer pockets get clean).
Yep... I run mine in the garage for 3 hours. Decap prior to tumble is almost mandatory. The primers will hold water and the pockets don't get clean if you leave burnt primers in the brass.
Yep... I run mine in the garage for 3 hours. Decap prior to tumble is almost mandatory. The primers will hold water and the pockets don't get clean if you leave burnt primers in the brass.
Do you decap dirty brass then tumble? Or tumble, decap and tumble again?
halfkorean
01-08-13, 12:24
Yep... I run mine in the garage for 3 hours. Decap prior to tumble is almost mandatory. The primers will hold water and the pockets don't get clean if you leave burnt primers in the brass.
I didn't think about that. Never tried to tumble before decapping. Good to know.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
halfkorean
01-08-13, 12:27
Do you decap dirty brass then tumble? Or tumble, decap and tumble again?
I decap dirty brass. I use the Lee universal decapper. It is cheap and pretty much indestructible.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Do you decap dirty brass then tumble? Or tumble, decap and tumble again?
Yep.. I use latex gloves and decap a days worth of shooting at at time. The left glove gets black and nasty from silencer fired brass.
Then i goes into the Tumbler.
halfkorean
01-08-13, 12:31
One more thing, tumbling with stainless steel cleans the whole case, outside and in, including the primer pocket. It doesn't matter in the grand scheme of things but it is helpful if you verge on being obsessive compulsive.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
preacherJohn
01-08-13, 13:49
Hornady tumbler, RCBS walnut media w/o any additive, and Flitz tumbler additive. I throw in a ripped up piece of damp paper towel to keep the media clean and the dust down. If I keep the number of .223 cases under 200 and tumble for about 4 hours they shine like glass, annealing marks removed and everything. I typically tumble 300 cases for 2 hours and they end up pretty damn clean.
Are you using the liquid Flitz or the paste in a tube? I see Walmart and Advance Auto carry Flitz, but I only seen the paste.
preacherJohn
01-08-13, 13:57
I use a Thumlers tumbler and stainless steel media and my brass looks brand new. Even old brass that has been sitting on the ground at the range awhile that gets gathered up will look new.
The only issues would be the initial cost, the time (as I tumble for 2 hours then drying time), the tumbler is pretty loud, and the pins get stuck in the flash holes every one in awhile (because I deprime before I tumble so the primer pockets get clean).
My friends are all amazed at how clean and shiny my cases are.
I'd love to get a Thumlers, but it's out of my price reach right after Christmas. Midway even has them on sale right now. I'm going to have to stick with the vibrator for awhile, and there's been some nice suggestions. I just don't like the lighter color finish of the brass. I seen some of the liquid tumlers on YouTube that looked really good. I was hoping I could get close to that look with the dry method.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/09/4a5a4ase.jpgThis shiny? Stainless steel media in my homemade tumbler.
preacherJohn
01-08-13, 14:02
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/09/4a5a4ase.jpgThis shiny? Stainless steel media in my homemade tumbler.
How 'bout a pic of that "homemade tumbler?"
Are you using the liquid Flitz or the paste in a tube? I see Walmart and Advance Auto carry Flitz, but I only seen the paste.
It's a liquid, Flitz 'Tumbler/Media Additive'. Midway carries it.
I tumble with corn cob media for about an hour.
Run the de-prime and size die.
And then put the brass in a simple green hot water solution. Soak for about 20 mins and agitate it a few times.
Dry on a towell over-night. They come out looking good and shiny.
I learned a long time ago, get a "Universal" decapper, and do all (All calibers regardless) FIRST. The universal decapper doesn't resize, just decaps so you only need one. Then the primer pockets are cleaner, or if you want you can clean them individually prior to tumbling. Then they are all cleaned up BEFORE they get resized without any dirt on the outside of the case. I use a brass polisher added to my media. I still inspect each case after and with a paper clip or something small to make sure there isn't ANYTHING left in the flash hole. On my hunting brass, I use a flash hole uniformer before any loading/reloading.
Do any of you ever get anything in the flash hole with the liquid sonic cleaning?
halfkorean
01-08-13, 15:18
I'd love to get a Thumlers, but it's out of my price reach right after Christmas. Midway even has them on sale right now. I'm going to have to stick with the vibrator for awhile, and there's been some nice suggestions. I just don't like the lighter color finish of the brass. I seen some of the liquid tumlers on YouTube that looked really good. I was hoping I could get close to that look with the dry method.
I hear you. My initial investment was for the Thumlers so I didn't have money sunk into a vibrating case cleaner and media. Actually, the Thumlers was the first piece of reloading equipment that I bought. I had already started collecting brass before I bought a press and had three 5-gallon buckets full of range brass. So I read researched bought the tumbler and Lee decapping die at the same time and started decapping on a generous friend's press and then cleaning.
He had been using a vibrator also but switched shortly after seeing the results I was getting.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Chromium4500
01-08-13, 15:19
Brass polish in with corn media in a dry tumbler = shiniest brass you're ever going to see.
http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/3022
preacherJohn
01-08-13, 15:37
I tumble with corn cob media for about an hour.
Run the de-prime and size die.
And then put the brass in a simple green hot water solution. Soak for about 20 mins and agitate it a few times.
Dry on a towell over-night. They come out looking good and shiny.
You use Simple Green on your cases? Boy, that has a lot of uses. I use it to remove the pitch off my 10" saw blades out of my table & mitre saws.
How 'bout a pic of that "homemade tumbler?"
Sure.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/09/emetagez.jpg
preacherJohn
01-08-13, 15:43
I like the Lee Univeral decapping die. I have that set up on a old RCBS single stage to decap anything that comes in the shop, then toss the casings in the tumbler. Probably half of the flash holes have some kind of media, walnut or corn. It's almost a job in itself cleaning the flash holes back out. I usually hit them with some air out of the compressor, but some of it is stuck in their pretty good & I have to poke something thru the hole to remove the media.
preacherJohn
01-08-13, 15:46
Sure.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/09/emetagez.jpg
Hey, that's pretty slick. Does the endcap come off to put the casings & media in? What's that black stuff around the bigger endcaps, just tape or something else for traction on the rollers?
Boxerglocker
01-08-13, 15:52
For bulk AR loads I use corncob and Nu-finish car polish. The secret in my experience is do not OVERLOAD your tumbler. Make sure the brass moves aggressively. I my XL650/RT1200B combo.Tumble gain for up to an hour to get the lube off. Then load on the 1050.
My precision bolt gun Lapua match brass is deprimed, and wet tumbled in stainless media. I spin the brass in a media separator to through out most of the water then lay out the brass on a old beach towel and have my shop blower, blow warm air over them for a couple hours.
halfkorean
01-08-13, 16:03
Sure.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/09/emetagez.jpg
Nice. I am wondering, however, what the advantage was in making your own? More capacity? Pride in craftsmanship? Cost? It seems like you did a quality job so I can't imagine you saved too much money. No offense intended, I really do think that is awesome.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Hey, that's pretty slick. Does the endcap come off to put the casings & media in? What's that black stuff around the bigger endcaps, just tape or something else for traction on the rollers?
Yes it has a rubber end cap that is band-clamped on. The black duct tape was needed for traction.
Nice. I am wondering, however, what the advantage was in making your own? More capacity? Pride in craftsmanship? Cost? It seems like you did a quality job so I can't imagine you saved too much money. No offense intended, I really do think that is awesome.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2The advantages for me were pride of craftsmanship and cost. The motor was free and most of the materials I had around the house. I have $100 into it and that includes almost $42 for the 5lbs of stainless steel media.
I had some really dirty corn cob media that would make the cases very dull so i thought i would try something before throwin it out i turned the tumbler on an put a big glob of mothers polish that you can get from walmart seemed like a bad idea at first but i let it run untill all of the clump was dispursed an i use that allways now the cases look like chrome after a couple hours works great ive never seen anything get them that shiney they looked hand polished
Yes it has a rubber end cap that is band-clamped on. The black duct tape was needed for traction... most of the materials I had around the house.
Sorry for the hijack, but can you tell us where the barrel came from?
I want to build my own, because (1) I think the Thumler is overpriced and (2) I want something bigger.
Yes it has a rubber end cap that is band-clamped on. The black duct tape was needed for traction.
The advantages for me were pride of craftsmanship and cost. The motor was free and most of the materials I had around the house. I have $100 into it and that includes almost $42 for the 5lbs of stainless steel media.
Do you recall where you got the pillow blocks and shafts. Also how are you reducing the motor speed? I have a few electric motors here. I wouldn't mind making something like that.
What's the diameter on that canister? It's kinda hard to estimate just how big that setup is.
Wash the brass in white vinigar! Or Dawn dish soap in hot water! Dry -nice shiny brass! Pennies per buck full! :D
If you do not wet tumble the media you use will make all the difference. Use plain walnut with dryer seats for cleaning. Then to polish/remove case lube use corn. You can add a polish or wax, but the corn will polish very well alone.
Dillon rapid polish is one of the best brass polishes i have used. Layman also makes a corn media called turbo tumbler media. My brass ends up looking as good as new.
Stainless makes the brass look better than new. The only thing corn can't do is clean the inside of the case. Cases like 45/9 come out cleaner inside, but not new.
Buy some corn, and use it after you size to remove the lube. I guarantee that by using the corn your brass will be much brighter than using walnut alone.
I use walnut with a capful of nu-finish mixed in. It's pretty shiny but then, I'm more concerned with making sure it gets dirty again.
Vibratory "tumbler", untreated corn cob media and Dillon polish.
Vibratory "tumbler", untreated corn cob media and Dillon polish.
This is the best combo for a vibratory tumbler. Brass comes out very shiny. If you leave it in for a couple hours the brass will be almost as shiny as wet tumbling.
Then to polish/remove case lube use corn. You can add a polish or wax, but the corn will polish very well alone.
I guarantee that by using the corn your brass will be much brighter than using walnut alone.
Vibratory "tumbler", untreated corn cob media and Dillon polish.
Since we're on the topic...
I'm still using a vibrator, corn cob media, and a bit of Berry's polish (it came free with the media).
How long do you guys use your corn cob media?
Wash the brass in white vinigar!
I read about using a weak citric acid solution. I tried it, and it made my brass really shiny, but getting the cases to dry in the rainy Pacific NW is a major PITA...
Now I have our old dysfunctional toaster-oven in the garage, so I might use that as a dryer.
I read about using a weak citric acid solution. I tried it, and it made my brass really shiny, but getting the cases to dry in the rainy Pacific NW is a major PITA...
Now I have our old dysfunctional toaster-oven in the garage, so I might use that as a dryer.
Food dehydrator. You can buy them for like $30.
SS media really does an amazing job on brass
How long do you guys use your corn cob media?
I shoot in a sandy area, so it probably gets changed after about 10-12 runs. ~Half or more of those are for lube removal unless I'm doing pistol brass.
A good price and a bunch on hand helps:
http://www.drillspot.com/products/521055/econoline_526040g-40_40_lbs_blast_media
This is fairly fine grain and does need polish, but it does not stick in the flash holes. 1.5 hours initial plus an hour to remove lube and add a little more shine.
I shoot in a sandy area, so it probably gets changed after about 10-12 runs. ~Half or more of those are for lube removal unless I'm doing pistol brass.
Goood NIGHT! :eek:
Shoot... I change that crap once per year at most. I'm using Walnut in addition to the SS media package.
I'd guess an average of 5 loads per week... 250-300 loads per year. The media really loses its ZING after the first few loads... but it still works good enough for a long time after that.
preacherJohn
01-09-13, 07:12
I'd guess an average of 5 loads per week... 250-300 loads per year. The media really loses its ZING after the first few loads... but it still works good enough for a long time after that.
I always wondered how long people use their media. It seems that it last a very long time.
Does anyone use the SS media in a vibrating tumbler? Or what about using a combination of SS and walnut or something else?
That homemade wet tumbler looks like it's made out of PCV pipe. I'm just wondering what size? It's certainly more then a 4" drain.
This is an interesting thread; great and many ideas shared here. :happy:
SS won't flow in a vibratory. SS needs water and soap to flow like lava.
And hell no you don't want wet Walnut or Corncob. That would be a friggin mess.
preacherJohn
01-09-13, 08:18
And hell no you don't want wet Walnut or Corncob. That would be a friggin mess.
Ha, ha, I guess you misunderstood my question. I didn't mean to put water in the vibrating tumbler. Since the SS works so well, I was curious if it could have been combined with a different media in a dry setting.
I have to admit I've never tried putting the pins in the vibratory... but just observing mildly soiled walnut move too slow leads me to believe something as heavy as steel isn't going to do much.
I get some abrasive sand (really tiny rocks) every time I pick up brass, but using the corncob to remove he sizing lube also decreases the life. But that's the fast no-hassle way to remove it.
Changing the media often is not a big deal, especially since there is no hassle of washing/drying anything. Just dump it out. A 40 Lb bag at $35 gets me ~15,000 reloads.
The Dillon lube adds some expense but really shines and slicks up the cases. Buying half a case at a time (split w/ Dillon lube) lowers the cost some.
preacherJohn
01-09-13, 12:07
I have to admit I've never tried putting the pins in the vibratory... but just observing mildly soiled walnut move too slow leads me to believe something as heavy as steel isn't going to do much.
You know, it might be worth a try to see how it works. Having walnut media with a handful or so of the pins. People put coins in vibrators all the time. I don't know about your media moving slow. Walnut shells in my Lyman moves around pretty well. Just a thought...
I use this method, except I use cordless drill with shell holder chucked in. It allows trimming, chamfering, and polishing all at once.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XW0VCej_nz8
I have been wondering about dry mixing SS and Walnut too. I would, but FIRST, I have to obtain some SS. Looking on the net, I see there are pins, balls, points, in different sizes. Would one do any better than the other? What about "Ceramic"?
halfkorean
01-09-13, 12:56
Mine are pins. I actually didn't realize there were other types but it has been years since I bought any media. That is the good thing about stainless steel, you don't ever have to buy more unless you dump them down the drain.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Since the SS works so well, I was curious if it could have been combined with a different media in a dry setting.
I have been wondering about dry mixing SS and Walnut too. I would, but FIRST, I have to obtain some SS.
No.
AFAIK, the problem is that the relatively heavy steel pins just sink to the bottom of the vibratory tumbler, and then you have cases just bounding around on top of them.
This is why everybody uses stainless media with rotary tumblers...
I use this method, except I use cordless drill with shell holder chucked in. It allows trimming, chamfering, and polishing all at once.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XW0VCej_nz8
That looks like it takes waaay too long.
That looks like it takes waaay too long.
That's some straight up Amish shit right there. :p
m1a_scoutguy
01-09-13, 13:32
Lots of great ideals,,lots of screwing around,;),after all its just a rifle case and its gonna get dirty everytime ya shoot,,big deal,,just the way it is !! For the most basic and straight forward no ****ing around,,use a Vibratory Tumbler,,2/3 Corn Cob 1/3 Treated Walnut (The Red Stuff) It works the BEST I have ever used,,lasts "forever" (almost) and makes your cases look GREAT in short order !! Try it before ya spend a bunch of $$$ on other stuff !! My 2 cents worth !! :D
halfkorean
01-09-13, 21:51
That's some straight up Amish shit right there. :p
Haha... my thoughts exactly.
Gabe
Mistakes brought to you by my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
That's some straight up Amish shit right there. :p
Yeah, that's the most primitive and labor intensive process I've seen since this thread:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=120040&highlight=hammer+bullet
I tried walnut media, mineral spirits, and nu-finish last night. Works awesome.
Yeah, that's the most primitive and labor intensive process I've seen since this thread
He'll get the last laugh when an EMP hits and we have no electricity though! :D
halfkorean
01-10-13, 10:07
He'll get the last laugh when an EMP hits and we have no electricity though! :D
Well, in that case I am super screwed. I will not be able to get into my safe, because of the electronic lock, and I will not be able to hit anything, because my red dot will be gone.:D
Gabe
Mistakes brought to you by my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
preacherJohn
01-10-13, 14:35
Well, I did a little experiment. I tumbled some 9mm casings in a walnut media I got from a pet store with some turtle wax chrome cleaner added for 4hrs in my Lyman Turbo Tumbler. I got a clean casing, but was lighter in color and had a dull finish. Then I took the casings and stuck them in a plastic jar filled with vinegar and shook 'em a little bit, then sat them on the counter. Everytime I walked in the kitchen & seen them, I'd shake them a little more. I then let them soak for a day. This is what I got. The casings on the right had the vinegar bath, the ones on the left was tumble only. The casings in the pan were all vinegar soaked. Notice how dirty the insides are on the ones on the right. These were Speer Lawman shells, and they just shot dirty. My gun was pretty really dirty after shooting these.
preacherJohn
01-10-13, 14:46
I couldn't get all the pics on one post, the files keep failing to upload. Here's one more though.
Notice how dirty the insides are on the ones on the right.
This is about the only difference I can see. In the other photos the four cases look the same to me.
Anyway, I believe you. After I ran my old .40S&W cases through my homemade wet vibratory tumbler with a citric acid solution, they REALLY shined up. I have some stubbornly filthy/tarnished .30 Carbine cases that corncob isn't fixing, so I'm thinking of doing the same again...
BTW, I cleaned that dysfunctional old toaster oven yesterday, and I think it would be a great dryer (it was only the "toast" setting that didn't work).
preacherJohn
01-10-13, 18:48
After I ran my old .40S&W cases through my homemade wet vibratory tumbler with a citric acid solution, they REALLY shined up. I have some stubbornly filthy/tarnished .30 Carbine cases that corncob isn't fixing, so I'm thinking of doing the same again...
I made a little visit to YouTube and I seen a boatload of homemade wet tumblers. When it warms up a little it'll be time to clean up the garage to see what I can scrounge up to build something like that. I know for sure there's some old skates out there for rollers. What kind of "citric" solutions are you using?
I had about 300 rounds of 30 Carbine shells I found in a couple of old ammo cases in mom's garage after she passed. They belonged to my dad, so they probably have been around since the Korean War. They were pretty nasty, so I threw them in the tumbler with walnut media, and then again with corn cob. Most of them look pretty good, but a few has tarnish stains that just won't come out.
The RCBS walnut shells and the Flitz media polished arrived late this aftn from Midway. I'll be trying that out soon. Everything I have now is pretty clean. It's time to start running them thru the press or shoot some more. There's an idea, 67° tomorrow in KY, good day to make some noise.
I made a little visit to YouTube and I seen a boatload of homemade wet tumblers.... What kind of "citric" solutions are you using?
I followed the directions here:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?83572-Citric-acid-brass-cleaner
The key is to keep the solution agitating, so I simply adapted my vibratory tumbler to be a wet tumbler:
I removed the bowl, cut down the threaded rod that held the bowl in place, drilled a hole in the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket, and then attached the bucket to the tumbler.
Then I put another bucket (without a hole) in the first bucket.
It was pretty top heavy, so I ran a tie-down from the bucket's handle to a hook in the ceiling, so it wouldn't tip over.
I let it run a while, then stirred with a wooden spoon, then let it sit overnight. Some of my less filthy brass came out better than new.
If/when I build a rotary tumbler to do stainless steel media, I think I'm going to use a couple 5-gallon buckets and a Gamma Seal lid, placed on top of casters. I have an electric motor out from an old shredder that should be able to turn it, if I gear it correctly. Or maybe I'll just buy a little cement mixer!
Hey, Bimmer...
I wonder if there's a Zip line tumbler that works like that Ammish guys Brass trimmer? :sarcastic:
Hey, Bimmer...
I wonder if there's a Zip line tumbler that works like that Ammish guys Brass trimmer? :sarcastic:
Get one of those each, and you could be the poster boy that is scawnny in one arm, and buff in the other arm, with a high pitched voice. Wish I could find that pic. :sarcastic:
I wonder if there's a Zip line tumbler that works like that Ammish guys Brass trimmer?
Here it is:
http://www.amazon.com/MIU-France-Plastic-String-Spinner/dp/B000VWF3E0
Thats the third piece, for getting the water out of your brass.:laugh:
Here it is:
http://www.amazon.com/MIU-France-Plastic-String-Spinner/dp/B000VWF3E0
Oh Lord! :p
Thats the third piece, for getting the water out of your brass.:laugh:
Here's what I do...
I strain off the water, pins, and brass in a triple level strainer I made...
Then I shake the pins inside the brass back into the drum. After that I drop the brass into a rinse water tote. Next I shake the water out of the brass and surface dry it on an old rag/t-shirt.
Then drop it into the dry tumbler for 30 min for a final internal dry/polish.
Ouroborous
01-14-13, 07:21
For mirror polishing I tumble again using corn cob with nufinish and mineral spirits. I also let it got a fairly long time if Im looking for what my dad refers to as "show grade" brass..
How much Mineral Spirits should be used when adding to cob media?
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.