View Full Version : What Glock trigger mod do you run?
I've got a new G19 and wanted to see what trigger mod that you use. If you have any other Glock, please chime in - this is not specific to any specific model.
Dry firing Glock's stock trigger setup, I pretty much knew I would need to modify it.
I've heard of the Ghost connector, other 3.5 connectors, and custom connectors used in conjuction with ny springs, stronger springs, etc.
How about a Bowie Tactical trigger job with Ghost connector?
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Don Robison
02-29-08, 22:58
I run the stock 5.5. But the Glock - connector with NY1 trigger isn't bad.
Business_Casual
02-29-08, 23:03
My advice - worth what you pay for it - keep it stock, lube the disconnector and pull the trigger a few hundred times.
M_P
What characteristics aare you looking for? Lighter pull? Shorter reset? More positive reset? Consistent pull start-to-finish or a two-stage pull?
I'm fond of the NY1 /3.5# connector combination.
OEM components only.
Lighter pull, definately. The other characteristics are subjective though and hard to describe without actually having the glock to dry fire. To me, a shorter reset would seem to be desireable, but if it's too short, that could be problematic during rapid two shot responses. A more positive reset would hamper the lighter pull, or would it? I don't want a 2 stage pull, and a consistant pull would seem desireable.
I should have stated that this is my first glock, so I don't have experience with a tuned trigger. I did shoot a 10mm and a 9mm G19, but that was a while back.
What characteristics aare you looking for? Lighter pull? Shorter reset? More positive reset? Consistent pull start-to-finish or a two-stage pull?
Lighter pull, definately. The other characteristics are subjective though and hard to describe without actually having the glock to dry fire. To me, a shorter reset would seem to be desireable, but if it's too short, that could be problematic during rapid two shot responses. A more positive reset would hamper the lighter pull, or would it? I don't want a 2 stage pull, and a consistant pull would seem desireable.
I should have stated that this is my first glock, so I don't have experience with a tuned trigger. I did shoot a 10mm and a 9mm G19, but that was a while back.
I posted this over on TOS in a thread about the Ghost Rocket -
I have the Rocket and Wolff gunsprings "Competition Pak Trigger Group" Stk#33230 in my G17. My G19 has a Scherer 3.5lb disconnecter with the Wolff spring kit in it.
I have been shooting Glock pistols since around 1990. The first thing I did was master the stock trigger. Once I had that down I started modifying my trigger groups for lighter pull and shorter reset.
Basically what I am saying is that if this is your first Glock pistol work on mastering the basic stock 5.5lb trigger. If you don't like it then (or intend to do some "Run n' Gun"), modify the trigger group to your tastes. But I recommend that you do it one "component" at a time until it meets your needs. I once made the mistake of doing a complete trigger mod to my wife's G26 before she ever fired it. After shooting the first magazine through the pistol she handed it to me and said "Fix it". I had gotten the pull too light for her and she was uncomfortable with it (trigger gauge was showing in the 2# range).
I've found with my Glocks that there can be quite a difference in the tolerances of the fire control group between pistols, so even the same connector can produce a different trigger action in different pistols. Which means some experimentation is in order.
I have tried Glock OEM, Ghost, and Lone Wolf connectors. In my G21, the Ghost 3.5# rocket produced the best (for me) trigger. In my G26, the LWD. In my G19, it was a toss up between the Ghost and OEM.
There is a limit to how much you can mess with the Glock trigger before you start to reduce reliability.
Personally, I polish the bearing surfaces on the trigger parts. Don't worry too much about screwing it up, they are cheap to replace. Make sure not to change any angles on any engagement surfaces, though.
I like the 3.5# connectors. I really like the Ghost rocket, but you have to know what you are doing to fit it properly. The Lone Wolf is a good one if you don't want to mess with fitting it.
I have also used the extra strength trigger springs. It smooths out the trigger pull so it is no longer much like a 2 stage trigger.
I wouldn't mess with the firing pin spring. The stock is 6# and most of the reduced power aftermarket springs are 4#. Some people have no problems with them, but you could get light primer hits. The trigger reset is also not as strong.
Don't think you'll get a 1911 trigger, though. Trying to do so will just screw up the reliability of the Glock. Get a timer, try a few conservative trigger mods and test yourself against the clock. Don't trust how it feels. Trust what your targets and timer tell you. A lot of people can't see a difference in their shooting results with a stock trigger vs. a lightly modified trigger.
Straight up OEM 3.5 connector. Polish contact points and good to go.
I never have liked the 3.5/NY1 combo that so many people seem to appreciate. And I have tried.
Been a good while since I used a Glock with any frequency, but the 3.5# OEM disconnector (I don't think they had aftermarket ones back then!) and NY1 trigger spring combo was my personal favorite. I'm a firm believer that the first trigger pull on a pistol, especially one without a manual safety, should not be too light.
For the most part I'm a keep your Glock stock type of guy but I do like the OEM #3.5 connector that I've been running in one of my G19s. I tried the #3.5 and NY1 spring (olive) but I wasn't fond of it. However I recommend you try a couple different combos.
You can still find OEM connectors but the one LW is now making seems pretty nice as well.
f.2,
As you can see it is a matter of personal preference. Good luck in determining how you want to configure yours.
kihnspiracy
03-01-08, 07:02
I run my 34 stock. Just dry fire the snot out of it.
Glock trigger mods are cheap and easy to do it yourself. Try'em all and decide for yourself.
In my case I have a G17/19/26 and have tried ALL availble trigger mods: 3.5# Lone Wolf, 3.5# Glock, NY, etc... And at the end of the run I returned to the stock 5.5# trigger. IMO its the best trigger pull for a combat handgun.
The $.25 trigger job is a good asset to yor gun if it comes gritty from factory, or just dry fire it 1000 times and go shooting ;)
Stock 5.5 and NY1 trigger
For those who have gone back to, or who prefer the stock setup, what specifically did you not like with your trigger mods?
militarymoron
03-01-08, 13:32
stock setup on my G19 with engagement surfaces polished, ghost rocket 3.5# connector on my G24C, with everything polished.
bullitt5172
03-01-08, 15:26
I prefer the stock 5lb setup.
I'm pulling the NY1 out of mine and leaving it with the 3.5# only. Too hard for me to switch from the 1911 otherwise.
I have a G17 and a G34 that are match only guns. The triggers in both of them are sub 3# which is WAY to light for carry or HD.
My carry/HD Glocks all have 3.5# connectors along with polishing and a LOT of rounds down range. Throw in a LOT of dry firing, too! :D
tkoglman stated "I've found with my Glocks that there can be quite a difference in the tolerances of the fire control group between pistols, so even the same connector can produce a different trigger action in different pistols. Which means some experimentation is in order."
I have to agree with him there. I keep a supply of trigger group parts on hand for those times when I need to try various combinations to get a the trigger just right. ;)
I like the factory 3.5#. After some time with my 34, I've swapped one into my 17 as well for consistency.
The Sotello parts are super nice in a 34. Ive shot a buddies 22 with the GlockWorx setup in it that is incredible however I have no idea as to its suitability in a carry gun.
Nick
BoyScout4Life
03-02-08, 10:16
tried the 3.5 's in both my 23 and 26 and went back to OEM 5.5Lb pulls. A Glock will never be a 1911...it is what it is and I love it that way,
3.5/NY1
This is what I run in my Glocks. The number one reason I prefer it is the heavier take-up stage.
This is what I run in my Glocks. The number one reason I prefer it is the heavier take-up stage.
I've got my M&P9 set up similarly, though it's not as easy to accomplish in the Smith. My pistol has a very substantial pull that is smooth and consistent all the way to the break, breaks at 6#, and then has a very positive and forceful reset.
My pistol has a very substantial pull that is smooth and consistent all the way to the break, breaks at 6#, and then has a very positive and forceful reset.
On a pistol with no digitally activated safety (finger off trigger does not count!), that sounds just about right. How did you get there on the M&P?
On a pistol with no digitally activated safety (finger off trigger does not count!), that sounds just about right. How did you get there on the M&P?
Essentially, you start with the heavy MA-compliant trigger (about 10#) and do all the cool things necessary for a great trigger job. You get the benefit of the heavier trigger return spring, which gives you: More resistance in the take-up
More forceful trigger reset
Heavier trigger pull weight
... but at a weight around 6# instead of 10. I've spoken with Dan Burwell and he's capable of doing the same exact thing that I had done to mine, if you're interested give him a shout.
I've got a new G19 and wanted to see what trigger mod that you use. If you have any other Glock, please chime in - this is not specific to any specific model.
Dry firing Glock's stock trigger setup, I pretty much knew I would need to modify it.
I've heard of the Ghost connector, other 3.5 connectors, and custom connectors used in conjuction with ny springs, stronger springs, etc.
How about a Bowie Tactical trigger job with Ghost connector?
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Here's what I did:
Bought a Glock 19
Did a lot of reading about mods.
Had the NY trigger installed - did a lot of dry fire
bought Crimson Trace laser grips
more dry fire practice
discovered the CTLG - shifted my trigger finger slightly
went back to the stock trigger
love the set up
Bone Stock!
I'm not a "special needs" shooter.
I use a factory 3.5# connector and a polish job.
"I've found with my Glocks that there can be quite a difference in the tolerances of the fire control group between pistols, so even the same connector can produce a different trigger action in different pistols. Which means some experimentation is in order."
I definitely agree with that.
Joe Mamma
I run the 3.5# connector. When we got glocks I ran the stock setup until I was completely comfortable with it. I believe one should use the stock setup until they can shoot at least Expert wth it. Until then any benefit in trigger mods is "lost in the noise".
On the Glock 19 my preference is to put in the OEM 3.5 connector and also put a Glock 17 trigger and trigger bar in. I prefer the smooth faced trigger to the grooved trigger that comes on the 19.
FlyAndFight
03-05-08, 08:46
Ghost Rocket 3.5lb connector on my G19 and G26. Stock is fine, too.
I'm not a "special needs" shooter.
Nor am I. I have already mastered the stock trigger, I just choose to go light.
I never hear/see anyone giving 1911 shooters a hard time about how light/crisp they may have their triggers tuned.
It's all a matter of personal preference. :cool:
I never hear/see anyone giving 1911 shooters a hard time about how light/crisp they may have their triggers tuned.
Really? I know a couple of people who walk around with 1911's that have triggers in the 2# range, and quite a few folks whose opinion I value give them a hard time about it regularly.
Furthermore, there is a substantial difference between having a light first shot on a gun with a positive manual safety, and one without. "My finger is my safety" or "the only safety that matters is between my ears" is all well and good, but I know that I have never met a perfect person. Mistakes, fumbles, and brain fades happen.
The number of people who can get a measurable benefit from a 3.5# trigger compared to a 5# trigger (given the same trigger travel, crispness, overtravel, etc.) is ridiculously small. Too many people want light because of how it feels, not because of how it actually impacts their practical shooting ability. Trigger weight is measurable, and guys just like to have the "best" when it comes to anything measurable. Light trigger pulls are more a status symbol than a practical mechanical benefit.
Don Robison
03-06-08, 00:45
I never hear/see anyone giving 1911 shooters a hard time about how light/crisp they may have their triggers tuned.
I'm nobody, but I do it all the time. IMHO a 2lb-3.5lb trigger has no place on a carry/duty weapon. I keep 1911s no lighter than 4.5lb.
Is it true that if you install a 3.5# connector that your trigger pull will actually be around 4.0#?
Lagadelphia
03-06-08, 08:41
I run the stock 5.5lb in my 27 with a polishing job and in my 35, I have the stock 3.5lb connector, polish job, and a reduced weight striker spring. I used the 35 more for gun games but I never had an issue with light primer strikes.
Is it true that if you install a 3.5# connector that your trigger pull will actually be around 4.0#?
It depends on a lot of variables. Some really will be close to 3.5#, but they'll often be as much as a pound heavier. Many of the aftermarket versions will provide a lighter pull than the Glock OEM "-" disconnector.
Really? I know a couple of people who walk around with 1911's that have triggers in the 2# range, and quite a few folks whose opinion I value give them a hard time about it regularly.
Furthermore, there is a substantial difference between having a light first shot on a gun with a positive manual safety, and one without. "My finger is my safety" or "the only safety that matters is between my ears" is all well and good, but I know that I have never met a perfect person. Mistakes, fumbles, and brain fades happen.
The number of people who can get a measurable benefit from a 3.5# trigger compared to a 5# trigger (given the same trigger travel, crispness, overtravel, etc.) is ridiculously small. Too many people want light because of how it feels, not because of how it actually impacts their practical shooting ability. Trigger weight is measurable, and guys just like to have the "best" when it comes to anything measurable. Light trigger pulls are more a status symbol than a practical mechanical benefit.
You raise some interesting points but, I'm not sure I agree with you on all this. So do you think people should have 8 lb connectors in their Glocks because they're safer, and it doesn't really affect their shooting? I doubt it.
Are Glock 35's that come from the factory with 3.5 lb connectors in a different category (of yours) than the Glock's that come with 5 lb connectors. Should they all have the same connector, or does it not matter.
I think you underestimate how important trigger "feel" is in your post. Haven't you ever suggested to someone that they buy/carry the gun they like and the one that "feels" good to them? It's a very subjective thing but, the consequences are real. I think for most people, how the trigger feels is very important, just like how a gun feels in your hand is very important. I also think the difference in feel between a 3.5 lb and 5 lb connector is noticeable to most people.
Joe Mamma
You raise some interesting points but, I'm not sure I agree with you on all this. So do you think people should have 8 lb connectors in their Glocks because they're safer, and it doesn't really affect their shooting? I doubt it.
Are Glock 35's that come from the factory with 3.5 lb connectors in a different category (of yours) than the Glock's that come with 5 lb connectors. Should they all have the same connector, or does it not matter.
I think you underestimate how important trigger "feel" is in your post. Haven't you ever suggested to someone that they buy/carry the gun they like and the one that "feels" good to them? It's a very subjective thing but, the consequences are real. I think for most people, how the trigger feels is very important, just like how a gun feels in your hand is very important. I also think the difference in feel between a 3.5 lb and 5 lb connector is noticeable to most people.
Joe Mamma
Sums up my place in this. I keep trying to type a response but I am at home with a sick child and she keeps messing with my laptop while I try and type a well thought out reply......
My earlier post was mainly in regards to the "special needs" comment. I personally don't believe it is a special needs issue, just a matter of preference. I just happen to know many people that don't feel a light trigger pull is an issue one way or the other.
You raise some interesting points but, I'm not sure I agree with you on all this. So do you think people should have 8 lb connectors in their Glocks because they're safer, and it doesn't really affect their shooting? I doubt it.
Is it safer? Undoubtedly. To what degree? Depends on the shooter.
Will it affect their shooting? Depends on the shooter and the metric used to measure "better."
Are Glock 35's that come from the factory with 3.5 lb connectors in a different category (of yours) than the Glock's that come with 5 lb connectors. Should they all have the same connector, or does it not matter.
The G35 is marketed as a game gun. People can do whatever they want with their game guns. I personally don't want to run around with a 3# trigger pull in a game, practice with that trigger every week, but then carry a substantially heavier or otherwise different action for CCW, HD, etc.
I think you underestimate how important trigger "feel" is in your post. Haven't you ever suggested to someone that they buy/carry the gun they like and the one that "feels" good to them? It's a very subjective thing but, the consequences are real. I think for most people, how the trigger feels is very important, just like how a gun feels in your hand is very important. I also think the difference in feel between a 3.5 lb and 5 lb connector is noticeable to most people.
Do I recommend people buy based on what feels best? Absolutely not.
To me, that's as stupid as buying a car based on which one has the most comfy driver's seat. There is a lot more to it than comfort. And in fact, people will often like the feel of a gun that they won't shoot as well as one that doesn't feel as good.
The only thing that matters is how you shoot it. If a gun felt like a slippery eel in my hand but I shot it more accurately and faster than my M&P, I'd learn to live with the way it felt.
You hit the nail right on the head. Lots of people feel the difference between a 3.5# Glock trigger and a standard Glock trigger. Pretty much anyone can tell the difference. But does that difference in feel actually translate into better, faster, more accurate performance? In my experience, no. The vast majority of people would benefit more from a case of ammo and an hour of instruction than from a lighter trigger pull on a gun.
If a gun felt like a slippery eel in my hand but I shot it more accurately and faster than my M&P, I'd learn to live with the way it felt.
You can probably get a stippling job or some checkering done to get it to feel better! :p
Stippled eel ... that's a delicacy in Korea, isn't it?
My latest mod was to buy a M&P Compact to replace my G27 which had a 3.5# connector and a NY#1 trigger spring.
I liked the trigger better on the Glock but I shoot the M&P better due to the more ergonomic grip (I have a permanent hand injury).
I have yet to spring for a trigger job on my M&P but I expect I will have to do something eventually. I am waiting to see if lots of shooting will improve the trigger. I need to get some snap caps....
For Sale:
Glock 3.5# connector and NY#1 trigger spring.
Buckaroo
I like the 3.5# triggers in all my Glocks...at work, at home, carry, competition. All factory Glock 3.5 connectors, with otherwise stock parts.
3.5#/NY1 with G17 trigger in my G19. G23 about to be set up the same
Will it affect their shooting? Depends on the shooter and the metric used to measure "better."
I know that for me "better" equals less front sight bounce with a lighter pull.
Do I recommend people buy based on what feels best? Absolutely not.
When I worked PT in a funshop a few years back I partially "preached" on what feels good in the hand. Mainly due to the fact that someone would be more likely to get out and practice with something that felt comfortable because it would lead to a. less fatigue and b. more confidence in the weapon.
My most important test for the customer was to have them get a good stable two handed grip and face an item in the shop and select it as their "target". I would then have the individual close his/her eyes then bring the pistol up from low ready towards what they thought was the target. If they opened their eyes and found the sights on or close to the target we had a good starting point for what they might want to buy.
While not the perfect way to select a weapon, it was the best I could do in 15-30 minutes with a novice shooter who did not know what he/she might be looking for, or what met their needs (most likely we have all seen the type that walks in and says "my buddy says I should buy X because it is the best").
The only thing that matters is how you shoot it. If a gun felt like a slippery eel in my hand but I shot it more accurately and faster than my M&P, I'd learn to live with the way it felt.
Yup, got to agree here on this to an extent. Needless to say the one pistol that fits my hand best is a BHP, unfortunately it isn't what I shoot best with (that would be a Glock- like you hadn't figured that out already ;) ).
I have yet to spring for a trigger job on my M&P but I expect I will have to do something eventually. I am waiting to see if lots of shooting will improve the trigger. I need to get some snap caps....
Lots of shooting will smooth it out, but it won't eliminate overtravel (which many M&Ps have in abundance) or improve the reset. For those, you'll need to work on the internal parts.
I've got mine set up to feel very much like the 3.5/NY1 setup on a Glock. It's a different approach than most 'smiths take (they generally want the gun to have weightless slack and lightest possible break) but I know Dan Burwell is capable of setting one up the way I've got mine. gotM4 had his done this way, too ... he might have a different opinion of it.
I know that for me "better" equals less front sight bounce with a lighter pull.
I would humbly suggest that this is not an indicator of better. What determines how a gun works is the accuracy you can deliver (at a basic level) or the accuracy you can deliver at speed (at a practical level) in terms of drawing, hitting, reloading, etc. I created a drill a few years ago for testing students which involves all of these fundamentals and I've found it's a good way to assess the practical ability of a gun, too. The F.A.S.T. Drill (http://pistol-training.com/drills/fast-fundamentals-accuracy-speed-test)
What I find is that, for the majority of shooters, under time pressure (or other stress-inducing external forces) the little things they think are making a difference really don't help. YMMV, of course.
I would humbly suggest that this is not an indicator of better. What determines how a gun works is the accuracy you can deliver (at a basic level) or the accuracy you can deliver at speed (at a practical level) in terms of drawing, hitting, reloading, etc. I created a drill a few years ago for testing students which involves all of these fundamentals and I've found it's a good way to assess the practical ability of a gun, too. The F.A.S.T. Drill (http://pistol-training.com/drills/fast-fundamentals-accuracy-speed-test)
What I find is that, for the majority of shooters, under time pressure (or other stress-inducing external forces) the little things they think are making a difference really don't help. YMMV, of course.
Looks like a fun drill to run through. You can bet that I will be giving this a shot (with a witness) and will get back with you. I'll do the drill several times and document my progression.
Definitely interested in hearing your scores. We've been lucky to have some folks like Ernest Langdon, Dave Sevigny, and Rob Leatham run it to give us a good baseline on what a top shooter is capable of.
Todd, good drill. Tried it tonight from the war belt. Holster was 6004.
First run. Around five or just under-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVzAxo9bXnE
The last shot at the end is from another shooter.
Second run. 4 something with an extra shot for good measure..... grin-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvONjTv6bhA
Ignore the fake "beep". Buddy was trying to be funny.....
As I stated in another thread (https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?p=139300#post139300), I'm going to stick with the stock 5.5# connector for now and learn this new platform as is.
smooth trigger
NY1 trigger spring
3.5lb connector
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