A couple questions about first build

[Bolverk93]

As the title states I just have a couple of questions.

First off for my upper I am using a Colt 14.5" barrel and BCG with a Blem BCM upper, and a Centurion C4 rail.

I used Aero 33ms grease and torqued the barrel nut 3 times to 35 foot pounds. Now the teeth on the barrel nut are lined up perfectly at 30 foot pounds which I know is the lowest end of the spectrum. My only fear is that the C4 rails attach directly to the barrel nut and the possibility of loosening it up through handling the weapon. How much torque would be necessary to take it to the next tooth in the nut? I really prefer not to reem the receiver if it's not necessary.

Second. I'm not an armorer, but I am an 8 year Infantry veteran, and I have taken apart a few trigger assemblies. I have a Spikes stripped lower, and when I installed the PSA LPK I could not install the safety selector switch with the hammer installed. Before anyone asks; I did have the hammer in the cocked position. I also tried with a Daniel Defense FCG that was previously on another rifle, and had the same result. The trigger mechanism simply sat too high, as if the holes were drilled too low in the receiver.

I was able to install the selector switch after removing the hammer, and then reinstalling the hammer. The trigger mech functions as it should. I was just wondering if this is common with Spikes lowers, and if it is out of spec. One side benefit is that the trigger reset is great. There is zero over travel after the hammer is released.

[AFshirt]

When I rebarrel a govt gun I set my wrench to the min torque and tighten 3 times not looking where the teeth line up when the wrench clicks. After the 3rd min click I set my wrench for the max spec and then tighten until the teeth on the barrel nut line up with the hole for the gas tube. As long as your wrench doesnt click at max spec before the holes are lined up you are fine. Been doing it this way for 20 years and thousands of barrels. However, that is only for a milspec barrel nut. Non mil spec ones may have their own torque settings. If you are on within the range, and the teeth are lined up you should be fine.

[markm]

I had a nut do exactly that two weeks ago. I left it at 30. Getting to the next notch in the nut would have been too much torque.

This was on my bergara barrel with FF rail that clamps to the nut. It's shooting 1/2 moa fine. Stay at 30.

[The_Hammer_Man]

Strange things happen when you over torque a barrel nut. None of them pleasant.

In fact, I know of one competitive shooter that deliberately mounts his barrels at 32 ft/lbs and then "stakes" (for want of a better word) his barrel nut.

No, I've personally not seen how he does it but , it's an interesting idea.

[Bolverk93]

Sweet. I'll leave it where it is. Thanks for the replies.

BTW: I read quite a few debates about lower parts kit before I got this PSA kit. I don't know about inherent quality the rest of the hardware, but the fire control group is exactly the same as what came from the factory on my newer model DD rifle with the rounded hammer. Looks the same, same forge marks, and trigger pull is the same. The bolt release has different serrations, though.

I'm still wondering about this Spike's lower though. I hate to go through the hassle of sending it back, but I won't settle for garbage.

[Bolverk93]

Here's my progress so far. Just waiting on a receiver extension. I'm pretty proud of it.

[offroader1006]

looks pretty solid