Brand new Glock 30SF - RSA dragging on frame !!??!!

[wha-tah-hey]

Hi all -

I finally succumbed to getting a Glock when I handled the 30SF - my favorite cartridge, fits my hand, compact with good mag capacity.
Seems an ideal carry piece for me.

Reading of FTRTB issues and the -1- RSA fix, upon trying the slow-return test, you can imagine my disappointment to find that problem and a -1 RSA in it, 2012 production too.
However, I've determined that the problem is the RSA popping out of it's milled lugseat down to the milled crosscut near the lug bottom, with the rear disk then dragging on the raised frame portion containing the slide lock spring, creating visible marks.
It drops immediately upon full slide retraction following reassembly.

I reduced the diameter of the disk, thinking it might be the drag causing the popping out, but it's made no difference, so the popping out comes first.

Only 30 rounds thru it so far, but it's surprisingly accurate, and no FTRTB during firing, but it may only get worse in the future.

As you may imagine, sending a brand new Glock back to the factory for repair is a most disheartening thought.
Any of you Glock armorers familiar with this?
Fixes?
(Please - no recommendations of other brands, thanks - I have others, and it won't help sort this out.)

regards,

[Magsz]

Erm...

Is the pistol functioning or not? You've only put 30 rounds through it yet you've determined that you have an issue?

All of my Glocks rub on the dustcover to some extent.

Can you post pictures of the "damage" so that we can get an idea as to whether or not this is "acceptable" wear or something else?

Reducing the diameter of the guide rod end is just...dumb...you're changing the angle at which the guide rod sits in relation to your barrel...

[wha-tah-hey]

As I said, it's my first Glock but I have the impression that among the Glock community, failing the slow RTB test is considered a problem in itself.
I've read on more than one forum that "any Glock" should pass it.

I reduced the disk only partway round, so the seated edge still holds the RSA in the same relative position.
I considered my approach a quick and easy way to see if the RSA was causing it, and cheap enough if I must replace it, given the low cost.
If it turned out to be the cause, I figured I'd be doing so anyway, so mebbe not so dumb.
I just finished off the 14 rounds on hand and it's cycling as it should.

My concern is really about continued damage and subsequent unreliability.

Here are pix, best I can; faint marks show extent of dragging, outlined on frame.

regards,

[MattHallman]

My 29 did the same thing. It isn't a problem. Just shoot it and have fun.

[Magsz]

Shoot the pistol.

My G19 did the same thing when it was new. The barrel needs to work itself against the slide, ie "fit itself" prior to it becoming smooth.

The picture showing the inside of the frame is too blurry for me to see anything.

I WOULD replace your RSA...asap on your dime since you decided to modify it.

[wha-tah-hey]

Tnx Matt, that's encouraging.
I may be reacting unnecessarily to a "conception of perfection" on those other forums. :D

I certainly enjoy the relatively mild recoil.

[wha-tah-hey]

Magzs -
if it's common for the RSA to drop down, changing the angle anyway, what'd be the benefit of a new one?

Tnx.

[wha-tah-hey]

FWIW, on the RTB test, releasing the trigger does allow the breech to lock.

[Hound_va]

This would just be one of those times where one must decide what is important:

1. Actual firing and function of the firearm
2. Passing internet tests which do not involve actual firing
3. Passing hand cycling tests with no actual firing involved

[wha-tah-hey]

OK, thanks everyone - I'll just shoot it and if it develops into something worse, I'll deal with it then.

regards,

[bigghoss]

Don't most guns fail a slow RTB test, especially brand new guns that haven't broken in? Isn't that why we aren't supposed to ride the slide forward when chambering a round?

[Magsz]

The RSA commonly drops out of the recess it is supposed to sit in on the barrel lug.

This is normal. The RSA is held in place by the slide lock and that lug when the gun is assembled.

By changing the diameter you are allowing the rod to move...replace it and throw that out.

[SW-Shooter]

I carry a Glock 30SF daily, and have so for over 4 years now. I initially had some issue/concern with the slight marking line on the connector. I have a little over 2000 rounds through it and stopped worrying 1500 rounds ago. I think some people on the internet forums (GlockTalk for one) has exaggerated this occurrence to the point of paranoia. As for the recoil spring assembly it will ride up only when the gun is disassembled, I wouldn't modify it in any way. The slow RTB occurs only during hand cycling, don't buy into the hysteria. If the gun functions correctly, don't worry about the very slight metal wear on the connector. Clean and lube it regularly and you will be fine. Listen to the members here, IMO they have way more knowledge than most at any other website.

[wha-tah-hey]

OK, I confess -
After my purchase, I googled "Glock 30SF" and was swamped w/forum posts about FTRTBs and got concerned, as I intended it for EDC.

I came here 'cause I consider this site to have the most-knowledgeable members anywhere, and you've all calmed me down.
After all, what's important is, "Does it function properly?" and so far, my answer is "Yes".
If that changes, I'll be back for more info.

Thanks all.

regards,

[R0CKETMAN]

Recoil spring installed improperly. Insert into half moon notch

https://www.m4carbine.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=15067&d=1359229195

[whick1]

I purchased a Glock 27 a few months ago that did the same exact thing at the beginning. THe 1st round i shot thru it had the same exact malfunction then it smoothed out. I now have a little over 100 rds thru it as it has been too cold to shoot but the problem seems to have fixed itself. I had the issue 3 times total in the 1st 20 rds but since then i have over 80 issue free rounds. So as others have said shoot it and it should be fine.

[boshev]

sorry, my mistake

[Redstate]

What-tah-hey, not sure I understand the issue you are explaining. Is this "slow-return test" with no magazine in the pistol and no round in the chamber? If so, no Glock should fail to return to full battery. I have a Gen 4 26 that with no round in the chamber and no magazine in the pistol (in other words, no ammunition any where near the pistol) that would not go into full battery position upon my easing the slide forward. Glock sent me a new RSA (on their dime), and the issue was resolved.
In any event, this issue that I did have did not in any way affect the functioning of the pistol when shooting with it.

[wha-tah-hey]

What-tah-hey, not sure I understand the issue you are explaining. Is this "slow-return test" with no magazine in the pistol and no round in the chamber? If so, no Glock should fail to return to full battery. I have a Gen 4 26 that with no round in the chamber and no magazine in the pistol (in other words, no ammunition any where near the pistol) that would not go into full battery position upon my easing the slide forward. Glock sent me a new RSA (on their dime), and the issue was resolved.
In any event, this issue that I did have did not in any way affect the functioning of the pistol when shooting with it.

Yes, that was my original concern (and it still won't fully return) but then I discovered the RSA is popping out of it's seat.
If I reseat it and reinstall the slide only 'til it locks, it slips back off easily, as it should.
With the lock temporarily diasabled, as soon as the slide is reinstalled and (very slowly) drawn back far enough to unbreech the barrel, removing the slide again requires a tap on the rear 'cause the RSA disk is fouling in the frame.

It's functioned fine with the 50ish rounds thru it so far tho'.
I'm loading more today to see if it breaks in or breaks down. :D

Did you send yours in or did a 'phone call suffice?
Even tho' I did alter the RSA, if that's the reason for the FTRTB, it was somehow bad from the get-go anyhoo.

[Redstate]

I never sent it in. Glock sent me a new RSA, and that cured it. Mine was also slipping out of the notch too far. I know it is normal for the RSA to slip up the notch to a certain degree; however, mine was going too far and I also scraped my frame a little in the area just to the rear of the serial number cut-out when trying to take the slide off for a field strip.
By the way, I would recommend you wait for the new RSA before you try it again. Running more rounds through mine did not help.

[wha-tah-hey]

Alright - thanks.

Worth a try, right? :)

[wha-tah-hey]

An update -

I installed a Ghost 3.5# connector and now the slide fully returns to battery in the slow test. :dance3:

[Hdog83]

I had a G30SF that had the initial FTRTB issue, over the first ~100 rounds or so. I had never seen such a thing on a Glock before, but this was my first Glock .45, so I wasn't sure what I to expect at the time. There were no static tests or other diagnostics of which I was aware - it just wouldn't return to battery after firing a round until I released the pressure on the trigger.

I posted in the thread on GlockTalk, took photos and measurements of internal parts, and generally panicked. Then, after I improved my lubrication routine, the pistol "wore in" (for lack of a better term) pretty quickly, and I never looked back. I would still have that pistol today if I hadn't decided to consolidate calibers in favor of more ammo purchases.

My suggestion: lube it properly with a high quality lube, perhaps even GENTLY sand/polish the FPS and the intersecting protrusion on the OEM trigger bar with jeweler's cloth or ultra-fine sandpaper (or whatever people recommend), and then put another ~250-500 rounds through it - I'll bet that the problem goes away.

[pat701]

Nobody should have to mess around with a brand new firearm to make it function right.

[robfromsc]

Does the dam thing shoot or not? Go run 500 rounds and report back.

[wha-tah-hey]

Nobody should have to mess around with a brand new firearm to make it function right.

I agree Pat, and understand that it does shoot just fine.
I expected a bit more from it tho'.
I've since learned that recent Glocks simply aren't the "perfection" that mebbe the early 17/19s were.

But this is the most accurate bigbore semi-auto I've owned, and it's certainly not uncommon for any of 'em to respond to a little breaking in.

I've since installed a Ghost 3.5# connector and, just this evening, Tru-glo sights.
I can hardly wait to punch some holes now. :D

regards,

[wha-tah-hey]

Does the dam thing shoot or not? Go run 500 rounds and report back.

Goes BANG and 10 shots makes a 1" ragged hole at 7 yds.
Just waiting for my bullets to get here.
I'll shoot it alright. :D

[kantstudien]

Recoil spring installed improperly. Insert into half moon notch

This.

I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be seeing on the other two pics, but if you don't position your recoil spring deep enough into the cutout on the barrel, you will gouge your frame or potentially cause malfunctions.

Step away from the files and sandpaper and go shoot the thing some more and let us know the result.

[wha-tah-hey]

This.

I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be seeing on the other two pics, but if you don't position your recoil spring deep enough into the cutout on the barrel, you will gouge your frame or potentially cause malfunctions.

Step away from the files and sandpaper and go shoot the thing some more and let us know the result.

1 pic is the barrel not in battery, another the scraping inside the frame.
As others have noted above it's normal for the RSA to pop out of the milled seat.
A call to Glock CS confirmed: "the seat is just for reassembly".

But I am looking to shoot a little tomorrow, if it's not raining.