Air-dry Cerakote...applied by hand?

[DreadPirateMoyer]

Hi everyone,

I know air dry Cerakote should be applied with an air brush, but is it possible to apply it by hand (q-tips, paint brush, etc)?

I ask because there is some finish missing from my LE6920 barrel right underneath the handguard, and I'd like to get the steel covered. Not doing this for cosmetic reasons, but to help prevent rust.

Heck, if AD Cerakote can be applied by hand but just looks ugly, I'm ok with that. I won't even see it underneath the handguard. I'd just like to avoid buying an air brush for what is essentially a touch up.

[Markasaurus]

Friend, if you just don't want to go with an airbrush, please forget that brush on idea, it won't come out nice at all and you won't like it.

For maximum toughness, Gunkote or better yet Alumahyde II from a rattle can, is what you want. The problem with the "flat black" Gunkote, is that it comes out more like a Satin. I.e. like a semi-gloss.

After buying one can of gunkote and finding out that "Flat Black" wasn't flat, what i wound up doing, on my 2 AK's i finished with it, was to use Alumahyde II. The Alumahyde comes out flat. Also you can apply it as either air dry (two weeks, or 4 or 5 days in a hot sun) or you can bake it 5 hours at 200 degrees F. The results were very satisfying. Alumahyde II is not as tough as Gunkote - keep brake cleaner and hoppes away from the exterior in large quantities - but other then that it works GREAT. I still clean my bore with Hoppes, i just use reasonable care to keep the hoppe's away from the Alumahyde finished parts. Those get hosed off with WD 40 for cleaning. Alumahyde also stands up well to oil, grease and CLP.

[edgecrusher]

shake and spray duracoat works nice and is very easy and durable.

[The_Hammer_Man]

If you don't like, or want, an airbrush setup here is a cheap alternative.
They come in various sizes and can be found in the "touch up" section of better auto paint stores.

http://www.amazon.com/PREVAL-SPRAY-GUN/dp/B000TRL9PY

This one screws onto a mason jar. Which will be a tad oversized for the job you describe. I've seen them about 1/3 that size that fit auto paint sample jars.

[MistWolf]

Go ahead and use a paint brush. Or a sponge, or old sock. Worked well for the Rhodesian Army
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/fal_rhodesia9.jpg

You could always touch the spot up using some cold blue and it will be fine

[SigSlave]

Degrease, cold blue, rinse off with water and add oil. If you aren't going to apply Cerakote right, don't do it at all.

[pdb]

If you're unable to use an airbrush and can't heat-cure the finish, you can't apply Cerakote.

Either Brownells Alumahyde II or auto parts store engine block paint will work out better for you. Degrease thoroughly, heat the part up with a hair dryer or heat gun, apply in thin coats and let cure for a week in low humidity.

[Col_Crocs]

You could just use high temp paint. Just prep it well.

[DreadPirateMoyer]

Thanks for the responses, everyone. :)

My main concern with things like high temp paint and Alumahyde is the fact that this finishing might occasionally be exposed to solvents that drip down underneath the handguard, and I don't want the finish to drip away. Hence, something like Cerakote was more my style.

I'm not opposed to using an oven, but it just seemed easier to use air-dry Cerakote (hopefully with a paint brush) since this is really just a corrosion protector and won't need to stand up to other things (abrasion, scratching, etc). It could come out chunky and gross and miscolored for all I care, so long as it keeps the rust out. I'm also looking for something that won't need to be reapplied every few months.

Would Gunkote or cold blue fit that criteria as well?

[markm]

http://preview.turbosquid.com/Preview/2011/05/25__06_06_14/Paint_roller_01_01_800.jpgbac6bb68-5404-4628-a5b5-33a2a85ec251Large.jpg

[MistWolf]

...Would Gunkote or cold blue fit that criteria as well?

How was the bare spot made? If it's from something that constantly rubs the spot, it will keep coming back even with the toughest of paints.

I don't know what kind of environment you live in, but there are many weapons with worn finishes that don't rust given a little care


If you're unable to use an airbrush and can't heat-cure the finish, you can't apply Cerakote...

Are you absolutely sure Cerakote must be airbrushed on? If so, why? Does using a paint brush prevent Cerakote from curing?

[DreadPirateMoyer]

Pretty sure it's not from rubbing, though that's a good idea. It's a small blemish (best way I can describe it) about the size of a lady bug 1 inch behind the FSB. Came from the factory like that; picked up the gun this weekend NIB. It wouldn't come off with an eraser like some of the aluminum marks (from the handguard) would.

It looks like the parkerizing/phosphating (whichever it is) didn't take, though I'm not sure. I tried taking pictures, but it doesn't come out well. Heck, it might just be discolored finishing -- not sure. Since I'm not sure, though, I'd like to take the safe route and touch up the blemish anyway.

I live in a pretty rust-heavy environment, and I take meticulous care of my guns. However, I like being prepared, and this would just make me feel better.

[ra2bach]

cold blue, then paint over with High temp barbeque or manifold spray paint from a can...

[DreadPirateMoyer]

Are those solvent-resistant?

[Evil Black Rifle]

How much cleaning solvent is going to get under the handguards ?

Apply some paint, if it comes off, apply a different kind. I suggest starting with some BBQ paint.







.

[AKDoug]

Solvents aren't going to hurt bare steel. Any solvent that will hurt bare steel will hurt blued steel anyway. You are worrying about nothing. If it were my rifle I would make sure I hit it with whatever lube I am running. I have a Remington 700 with NO blue left on the exposed parts of the barrel. Light lube has kept it from rusting for over 10 years and that includes some hunts in salt water areas.

[Campbell]

Doug is correct. If your really only worried about the metal, anything will protect your bare steel: BBQ paint, oil, tape, and cerakote or anyother kote.

If your concerned with the looks of a blemish.... a touch up always looks like a touch up, and its subjective like art.;) I use alot of cerakote, heat and air dry. It is a different animal, but a small touch up that size can be done...

I do BFPU kalashnikovs in the shop for people, and there is bare steel that will never see finish again. Keep your chosen lube on your spot till your ready to refinish the upper, this is the small stuff your not supposed to sweat.

[Markasaurus]

For solvent resistance, it's hard to top Gunkote. Duracote, like many of these finishes is just industrial epoxy paint. I'm not sure how solvent resistant any air dry finish will be. When i tried Gunkote after curing, i wiped it with brake cleaner and even acetone, this did little but leave a little black residue on the cloth. It's TOUGH.
WHAT i did on one AK, was i gunkoted then simply applied alumahyde over that! It did stick quite well but YMMV, it might getting on a lot of other factors. It's possible i guess, to just use Gunkote on the barrel and something else on the rest - i have done just that, on parts that don't show mostly.
I think cerakote is sold in rattle cans now but not sure...I'm done refinishing guns for a while. To me ANYTHING is better then a brush, unless you're a soldier in the field in which case anything goes of course!

[R0CKETMAN]

https://sportsmanmall.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=10497&gclid=CJiDy9bWtLUCFQsGnQod7zcAAQ#.URxBzRG9KSM