View Full Version : First Precision AR Build almost complete...
Well.. It's almost done.. All I need now is to either drill and tap the tube for a Harris Bipod or just get a new free float altogether (looking at the Seekins Precision SP3R 12), scope caps, add an Accu Shot BT42 adapter to the UBR and a BT12-QK monopod. Officially my first build, but I have 2 more in the works.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f268/shaofutzer/IMG_1215_zps25a967a4.jpg
Stats:
Wilson Combat flat top upper
24" Lothar Walther 1:7 SS bull barrel
DPMS 12" Free float tube handguard and railed gas block
Young Mfg. chromed M16 National Match BCG (staked)
BCM Gunfighter Mod 3 charging handle
Bobro/SWFA QD 30mm scope mount
Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50 FFP
Troy HK style gas block front BUIS, Troy regular folding rear BUIS
Aero Precision lower
Geissele SSA-E trigger
PSA LPK
Spingco blue spring
Magpul UBR, MOE grip, MOE trigger guard
Lancer L5AWM 20 round magazine
I think I will put the Seekins on it... it would look sick... I was into the whole featureless tube thing, but after seeing that Seekins, it's all I can think about now... But that would mean changing out the front sight and gas block too... It sure would make mounting the bipod easier though... What do you guys think? Did I do OK?
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f268/shaofutzer/IMG_1216_zpsa7aba27b.jpg
That is really nice!
I really want a precision AR, I am leaning towards the AR10. I prefer the AR platform over other .308 rifles because of my familiarity with the platform already.
I hope you enjoy your new rifle!
That is really nice!
I really want a precision AR, I am leaning towards the AR10. I prefer the AR platform over other .308 rifles because of my familiarity with the platform already.
I hope you enjoy your new rifle!
Thanks! The reason why I went 5.56 over 7.62 is commonality of ammo and parts. I already have a ton of 5.56 and mags and I like having the option of swapping uppers and lowers around... Apparently I need to gauge the headspace on this sucker before I fire it... Or so I've been told... Sounds good to me...
Thanks! The reason why I went 5.56 over 7.62 is commonality of ammo and parts. I already have a ton of 5.56 and mags and I like having the option of swapping uppers and lowers around... Apparently I need to gauge the headspace on this sucker before I fire it... Or so I've been told... Sounds good to me...
Yeah that is true. I guess I shall see when it gets closer.
And I read the thread you made almost right after reading this one, hope you get everything squared away.
Some people are hung up on checking the headspace but realistically if its out of spec your have to buy another barrel assembly or BCG. I don't understand what else you could do.
Nice set up. You have a lot of money in that rifle.
Edit: can you post a pick of re staking job you did on the BCG?
^just that exactly. It tells you whether or not you need to. Safer to find out by guage than by failure. That plus the fact that in his other thread, someone mentioned this being a possible issue with his particular BCG.
Shao: any reason why you went with that rail and, particularly, that gasblock? It's aluminum IINM.
What is the purpose and why the 18th century musket barrel?
My guess is he got a deal on an in stock barrel...and after reading the 18th century musket comment it will be on it's way to adco for some deal killing 'cuttin an a turning'.
What is the purpose and why the 18th century musket barrel?
Hahahahahaha, I'm sorry, that's just funny.
I hope that sucker is going to be a bench gun. My girlfriends father has a 24" bull barreled AR that I used the last time we went for prairie dogs. That thing was the biggest pain in the ass to haul in and out of the truck. I call it his field artillery gun because it should be towed behind the truck and crewed by 5 dudes.
What is the purpose and why the 18th century musket barrel?
We're on the brink of a revolution in this Country. He's a traditionalist! :cool:
And I read the thread you made almost right after reading this one, hope you get everything squared away.
Thanks, I think I have the problem solved now... stakey bits were protruding from the side of the gas key from my overenthusiastic staking.
Nice set up. You have a lot of money in that rifle.
Edit: can you post a pick of re staking job you did on the BCG?
Thanks, it started as an idea.. then a barrel... then it kinda got out of hand.. Will post pics of the BCG once I get some light in here. The wife is sleeping and I'm m4carbining in the dark.
Shao: any reason why you went with that rail and, particularly, that gasblock? It's aluminum IINM.
I've always had a thing for the featurless tube look.. that and it was cheap.. as was the gas block... I didn't know I would end up spending so much money on this rifle or I would have changed things from the beginning.... After much contemplation, I've decided to try for that sweet Seekins rail but I think I'm going 15" so that means I've got to replace the gas block and front sight (more money... ugh)...
What is the purpose and why the 18th century musket barrel?
My guess is he got a deal on an in stock barrel...and after reading the 18th century musket comment it will be on it's way to adco for some deal killing 'cuttin an a turning'.
IG - Airhasz got it right... I knew little about how much a 24" bull barrel would weigh and it was in stock and relatively inexpensive (since I knew from the beginning accuracy would be my main concern with this gun, I paid extra attention to the barrel and trigger) - I should've paid extra to have them flute it at the factory, but as mentioned earlier, I didn't know the project was going to keep ballooning as it did. The barrel will probably be sent to Adco soon to maybe have a couple of inches lopped off and have it fluted/reprofiled a bit. I do like the look of the bull barrel though.
I hope that sucker is going to be a bench gun. My girlfriends father has a 24" bull barreled AR that I used the last time we went for prairie dogs. That thing was the biggest pain in the ass to haul in and out of the truck. I call it his field artillery gun because it should be towed behind the truck and crewed by 5 dudes.
Yeah, I never had any intention of hauling that thing anywhere. It's will probably live its life solely as a bench gun and as my SHTF, I need to set up shop on the roof and pick off crazies kind of rifle...
We're on the brink of a revolution in this Country. He's a traditionalist! :cool:
Hahaha! Constituionalist even... :D
I just did some head math and I'm already $3300 + deep on this one. Switching to a low pro gas block of reputation, fluting the barrel, adding the Seekins rail, replacing all the springs with Wolff, replacing the front sight, and adding the bipod/monopod/mounts will bring it well over the $4000 mark... man.. what have I gotten myself into... It never seems like that much when you're buying parts separately... I had no idea how much I had already spent on this monstrosity.. :D
I guess I missed something. How does it shoot?
Did you do any research at all before you started? Do you realize that you could have built an 18" SPR or 20" rifle for probably a thousand dollars less, if not more?
Did you do any research at all before you started? Do you realize that you could have built an 18" SPR or 20" rifle for probably a thousand dollars less, if not more?
A did research - not as much as I could or should have, obviously. I will say, the only inflated price I really paid was for the AP lower - $220 with FFL transfer fee included. Everything else was purchased at pre-craze prices. I mean, I could have saved a few bucks on the UBR if I had bought one in November, but I only shelled out $260 for it, so I wasn't gouged that badly. The scope and mount alone set me back $1130...
Don't worry I'm probably looking at $2500 for a 14.5 build I'm trying to complete and the only thing that was really inflated was the AP lower. I still don't have a BCG either. Money adds up fast when your buying part by part. I could have saved tons by not getting a geissele MK1, SD3G, 1.5 BattleComp, Colt LPK, and I bought everything to make it ambi except a mag release. So I believe I will end up with a high quality rifle. When I get the barrel in I'm going to start the build and ill post it up.
Before spending the money cutting and contouring that 24" barrel, search for Little Crow Gunworks. They often carry Lothar-Walther barrels at reasonable prices that include a matched bolt. You could wait until they get the 20" HBar profile barrel in stock and sell that big, long heavy thing you got now. That might cost less than sending it off to Adco.
In it's current configuration, the BUIS are teats on a boar-hawg. If that scope goes out at the bench, are you really going to switch to the BUIS and keep shooting? More likely, you'll switch to the next rifle or pack up and go home to post on M4carbine about your lousy day at the range.
It needs a bit of tweaking but it's a good start. Myself, I'd lighten it up enough that it could be used as a walk-about for varmints
Before spending the money cutting and contouring that 24" barrel, search for Little Crow Gunworks. They often carry Lothar-Walther barrels at reasonable prices that include a matched bolt. You could wait until they get the 20" HBar profile barrel in stock and sell that big, long heavy thing you got now. That might cost less than sending it off to Adco.
In it's current configuration, the BUIS are teats on a boar-hawg. If that scope goes out at the bench, are you really going to switch to the BUIS and keep shooting? More likely, you'll switch to the next rifle or pack up and go home to post on M4carbine about your lousy day at the range.
It needs a bit of tweaking but it's a good start. Myself, I'd lighten it up enough that it could be used as a walk-about for varmints
Thanks for the tip, I'll look into that. Sorry, but irons are a requirement for me on any rifle. If I ever did need to use it in a combat situation, I'd rather be safe than sorry... and while it weighs a ton, I can still shoulder and fire it if need be... Plus, when a rifle weighs as much as this one, a pair of BUIS aren't going to ruin my day if I have to hump it around for awhile.
I guess I missed something. How does it shoot?
Indeed.... and it's not a good idea to go fluting and/or reprofiling a barrel after final heat treat.
Indeed.... and it's not a good idea to go fluting and/or reprofiling a barrel after final heat treat.
Hmmmm... thanks for the advice...
How does it shoot? I have no idea... it's a virgin...
Hopefully straight! :D
If it stacks 'em and you don't need to carry it all around, I'd keep it.
I like shooting a heavy barrel long range. Comfortable as shooting an Air Rifle.
If it stacks 'em and you don't need to carry it all around, I'd keep it.
I like shooting a heavy barrel long range. Comfortable as shooting an Air Rifle.
That's what I figure... If it ends up being the tack-driver I think it's going to be, then I'll be happy. I keep looking at that Seekins rail... It's taking a lot of willpower not to just order it... Man, I've got EBR-disease bad...
I dontknow how the rail goes on but if there's anything i would change, it would be the gasblock. That thing is aluminum, IINM.
I dontknow how the rail goes on but if there's anything i would change, it would be the gasblock. That thing is aluminum, IINM.
Would this be an acceptable alternative, given that the set screws should line up since it's also a DPMS?
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/gas-system-parts/gas-blocks/micro-936-gas-block-sku231000333-54725-111174.aspx
The_Hammer_Man
02-06-13, 16:55
Yep, it will as long as it fits your barrel. Do you have info about the diameter of your UGB (under gas block) area of the barrel?
Wow, i didnt realize your barrel was .936".
Did you dimple the underside for the set screws? Generally, they line up regardless of what brand it is--The rear set screw in particular. I dont know how far forward the front screw is on your current block. it seems longer than a typical block, not sureif they transalted that length to the distance between the screws as well.
ETA: to answer your question, yes it should work but... How are you going to go about mounting front BUIS?
IndianaBoy
02-06-13, 19:00
I think you would be really happy with the Seekins handguard. I have been considering one myself. Those I have seen appear to be of excellent quality.
WOW man that is beautiful....How do you like that Aero lower? Im tempted to get one to match my upper. I have a Delaware lower now.
Wow, i didnt realize your barrel was .936".
Did you dimple the underside for the set screws? ETA: to answer your question, yes it should work but... How are you going to go about mounting front BUIS?
Yes I dimpled it - I just wasn't sure if all set screw gas blocks were speced the same. I would have to sell the Troy gas block sight off and buy just a regular Troy front and mount it to whichever replacement tube I choose.
Yep, it will as long as it fits your barrel. Do you have info about the diameter of your UGB (under gas block) area of the barrel?
It's .936" all the way as far as I know.. straight bull barrel with no profiling!
I think you would be really happy with the Seekins handguard. I have been considering one myself. Those I have seen appear to be of excellent quality.
I think it's beautiful... I was going to wait on the Geissele Mk4 and considered a Noveske NSR for awhile there, but that Seekins in 15" looks to be exactly what I'm looking for...
WOW man that is beautiful....How do you like that Aero lower? Im tempted to get one to match my upper. I have a Delaware lower now.
Thanks bossman! The Aero lower is nice! I had it built up (the first time) in a few minutes and the tolerances were perfect. A great lower... Heck, I like it better than the lower on my Sig M400.
Yes I dimpled it - I just wasn't sure if all set screw gas blocks were speced the same. I would have to sell the Troy gas block sight off and buy just a regular Troy front and mount it to whichever replacement tube I choose.
Not all probably but at the very least, your rear set screw will line up. With that in mind, i'd probably get a better block. Ive never used the linked DPMS block or any of their steel ones for that matter but their QC gives me the creeps. That plus the fact that if it were mine, i'd pin the final block too.
Not all probably but at the very least, your rear set screw will line up. With that in mind, i'd probably get a better block. Ive never used the linked DPMS block or any of their steel ones for that matter but their QC gives me the creeps. That plus the fact that if it were mine, i'd pin the final block too.
Yeah, not a fan of DPMS either but they had the parts I thought I needed at the time and in my ignorance, didn't know the difference between a steel and aluminum block. Have any good alternatives made of steel that will fit a .936 barrel and fit under a Seekins SP3R????
Both PRI and Troy make .936 steel gasblocks. Just checked and they're out of stock on Midway but I'm sure you can get them elsewhere.
Both PRI and Troy make .936 steel gasblocks. Just checked and they're out of stock on Midway but I'm sure you can get them elsewhere.
Thanks.. will look into it..
You can run the aluminum gas block until you get a steel replacement as it will take awhile to erode to the point of needing replacement. Since it's a rifle length gas system, gas erosion won't be nearly as bad as it would if it were a middy or carbine
yeah, since you have so much into it already and it's ready to shoot, I'd just shoot it. who knows it might be lights out as is. a long time ago I learned not to keep digging when I get the hole deep enough...
Will_Power
02-08-13, 01:07
Nice looking setup!
What are your plans for it?
Shao, I agree with several others, very nice precision bench rifle..keep it as is and go enjoy it!
I just picked up my stripped Aero Lower today that I bought the same day you got yours...I guess you could say I'm taking my time..:p
Achilles11B
02-08-13, 07:58
Very nice rifle, make sure you post up a range report once you get it zeroed in!
As for parts, hey, if it works, why mess with it? Do you have any plans to mount anything besides bipods to the forearm?
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