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Ironman8
02-07-13, 13:36
Hey fellas,

I'm all set to load up some 9mm, and was going to load somewhere around 10rds per powder charge and test for accuracy.

I'm more concerned with what the "best practices" are when working up handgun loads. I've worked up some rifle and am really pleased with the results, but handgun seems like it may be a different animal. I may be wrong...

1) What is the recommended way to test for accuracy? (Distance, position, ect.)

-I was planning on testing at 25 yards, but wasn't sure if I should do it standing unsupported, rested, rested w/ sandbags, ect?
-I know that I'm capable of sub 3" groups at 25yds with a G19 standing un-supported, but there's still the element of human error that I want to eliminate as best as possible when working up the load.
-When shooting rested (forearms on bench), I've noticed that my POI changes, and my groups actually open up (*limited practice here, so that may be the cause)

2) What pressure signs do I need to look for?

-I will be staying within recommended load data, but I'm not sure if the pressure signs will differ from that of a rifle (ex. ejector marks, flattened primer, ect..)

Thanks in advance.

Snake Plissken
02-07-13, 16:20
Typically I load until I get reliable function, and then I go a bit past that to account for variations in charge. As for accuracy, it's all going to be rather relative once you get into a normal pressure load. The most important thing is that your bullet weight is uniform. We're talking 25 yards at best here for analysis of the load precision.

For me I have my home range and there are several 3-4" size gong targets at the 25 yard line. If I can reliably hit those from my normal shooting stance, I consider the load to be just fine. The next best option is a cardboard box and some printer paper. Mark a solid dot on the center with a marker or pen, and go to work. If you're using wadcutters or similar, the cuts will be nice and uniform and you can catalog them in your reloading logbook for each loading. Yet since most people around here just want practical accuracy (ability to hit a torso at normal ranges), go with that.

You'll go nuts loading pistol ammo in 1/10th grain increments. For instance in my P2000 I use 6.5 gr of Power Pistol under 115 gr FMJ. This is a warm loading, but in something that requires near-NATO spec to run reliably, it's the necessary thing to do.


If you want to replicate your defensive loadings, load to their power. If you want target practice, load just enough that the pistol cycles them reliably. The more oomph you put behind a pistol bullet, the more powder you have to buy.

theblackknight
02-07-13, 17:12
What powder you using? Some powders have floors and ceilings that are very close, so .1 grain +1's make sense, like Bullseye with lead has a 2.8 min and a 3.2 max. Other better suited powders have a wider range with lead or FMJ.

Also, another thing to try with a rested pistol is to use 2 sandbags to support your actual hands and not the pistol(dustcover) itself. Some guns are sensitive to this(M&P).

I reloaded some 9mm Major brass from a Open gun that had a little glock style case buldge, but a couple runs thru the resize made it ok for range loads.

Ironman8
02-07-13, 18:25
Blacknight,

Powder: Alliant Unique
Primer: Federal Premium Match SPP
Bullet: Armscor 124gr FMJ
Gun: G19

Speer Manual: 5.2-5.8
Lyman Manual: 4.5-5.0

Which Min/Max should I go with?

Thanks for the tip on the sandbags under the hands.



Snake (and Blacknight)

Would you guys recommend testing at 25yds like I originally planned?

And what pressure signs do you look for?

Thanks!

shootist~
02-07-13, 19:00
Blacknight,

Powder: Alliant Unique
Primer: Federal Premium Match SPP
Bullet: Armscor 124gr FMJ
Gun: G19

Speer Manual: 5.2-5.8
Lyman Manual: 4.5-5.0

Which Min/Max should I go with?



Hornady lists 4.0 to 5.0 for Unique and 124s. I would load about 30 or 40 at 4.5 and see if I'm happy with the results - then go from there. 10 won't give you enough to evaluate. Sometimes for pistol, it's more of a matter of finding what powder works and a little less of exactly how much.

If you have a need to make IPSC type Minor Pf, then a chronograph will be necessary. 4.5 grains may be close to the 125 Pf minimum. (Hornady suggests 1,000 fps at that charge with a 4" barrel).

FWIW, Speer is the only manual that tends to list max loads that I could never get to (rifle stuff and none recently). I would be a bit leery of their max charge unless approached cautiously. Less so on the others.

Ironman8
02-08-13, 11:22
Hornady lists 4.0 to 5.0 for Unique and 124s. I would load about 30 or 40 at 4.5 and see if I'm happy with the results - then go from there. 10 won't give you enough to evaluate. Sometimes for pistol, it's more of a matter of finding what powder works and a little less of exactly how much.

If you have a need to make IPSC type Minor Pf, then a chronograph will be necessary. 4.5 grains may be close to the 125 Pf minimum. (Hornady suggests 1,000 fps at that charge with a 4" barrel).

FWIW, Speer is the only manual that tends to list max loads that I could never get to (rifle stuff and none recently). I would be a bit leery of their max charge unless approached cautiously. Less so on the others.

Thanks Shootist...as always :D

I just want a medium/med-high pressure load that's reliable and with good accuracy...no Pf required.

If you don't mind, can you describe what you look for to make sure you're not getting too hot/high pressure? Is it the same as rifle?

Also, do you test yours @ 25yds? Rested/bagged?

shootist~
02-08-13, 14:09
Ironman8,

I'm not sure you will see any pressure signs with pistol loads like you can with (much higher pressure) rifle loads - unless you get way out of bounds. It won't hurt to check for flattened primers, of course.

Recoil and/or ejection distance that's noticeably different from a standard pressure factory would be a clue, but no guarantees there either.

If you load some at 4.5 grains, I would suggest to take 10 or 20 at 4.8 to 4.9 with you as well. It might save you a trip if the 4.5gr load turns out to be on the light side.

For accuracy - don't expect anything magical. Something similar to a decent factory load at 25 Yds (maybe 4-6") would make me happy.