View Full Version : Grr Ruger
I have a SR556 from Ruger. I really like the gun. Anyway, it's dirty under the forend. I took my air compressor to it but there is still gunk up there. I called Ruger to ask what they recommended. They actually said to send it in so they could clean it. Then they offered to pay for next day air shipping to and from their shop in NH.
I asked what am I supposed to do every time I go hunting in bad weather and it gets nasty under there. They said to send it in for a cleaning every time. I said that's inconvenient. They said not to worry about the grime. I said that grime and dirt attract moisture and would eventually cause rusting, and besides, I keep my weapons clean. They said they would evaluate replacing any parts that rust due to inability to clean under the forend.
Does this make sense to anyone? They'd rather pay for the shipping, time and labor to clean it themselves than to let end users remove the forend. Or, if they don't clean it, they'd rather do warranty work on it caused by the inability to clean it thoroughly.
Absolutely ridiculous.
Sorry, had to rant about that a bit. The non-removable forend has got to be the worst ideas on the market right now.
Speaking of which, anyone here know if it is possible to have a gunsmith replace the rollpins holding the forend on with some other type of pin or screw to allow easy removal?
Pretty easy fix here man...a competent smith could easily remove and clean every time you got honked off at the gunk. Or this is what I would do. Get a free float rail like Daniel Defense, Spikes, Wilson Combat, or any other top notch manufacturer that has a barrel nut that allows for easy bolt on/off removal.
I have a Wilson Combat TRIM rail and a Spikes Tactical BAR rail and both attach to the barrel nut with torx screws that you just put a little blue loctite on and don't torque it more that 65-80 in-lbs so you can remove it fairly easily.
Keep the Ruger rail in case it ever needs to go back for service other than gunk removal.
The only thing you'll have to make sure of is clearance with your piston's gas block system. The Spikes BAR has a fairly large ID that can accommodate cans and gas piston systems...that's one direction I'd research if I was you.
I don't think that would work. The rail and barrel nut are proprietary to Ruger's piston system. From looking at it and at a diagram of how all the parts fit, the transfer rod is supported by bushings installed in the forend and barrel nut. As much as I'd love a better forend, I don't think it's possible. I'd be happy with just being able to remove it for maintenance and repair. Ruger's CS is awesome, but I'd rather be able to work on it myself rather than have to send it in.
While I may not have the answer to your question I cannot help but chuckle a bit given the whole "pistons are better because they run cleaner" argument that some people harp on. :p Have you tried using a pressure washer on it? I'd disassemble it and spray it all down that way.
Otherwise, you could always sell the complete upper and use the cash towards a BCM upper. That way you would not have the burden of a piston system and not have to worry about stupid little things like this, or attempting to replace impossible proprietary parts.
The thing is, what if some day you cannot have them service it every time you need it cleaned, though? Given the political climate and the direction this country is going, I would not take such a thing for granted.
On the other hand... it sounds like Ruger is at least trying to make you happy no matter what their expense, which should be commended.
I may have told you wrong, not fully knowing how the rifles piston system is set up. Let me do some research and see if I can find something for ya buddy.
Sorry for the confusion. I should have researched before answering...my apologies
Heavy Metal
02-17-13, 12:28
Flush it out with Break-Free powder blast and re-lube it with a spray oil like Break-Free in a can.
You must re-lube if you use powder-blast as it will strip all oils.
It's an inheritance so even if any uppers were available, which as far as I can tell they are not, I wouldn't be willing to sell or trade it.
Ruger's CS is top notch, that's for sure. It's an early serial so it still had the squared off BC and the buffer tube was showing some wear. I called them and they had me send it in next day air, on their dime, and polished the crown and chamber, rounded the back of the BC and polish that, replaced the buffer tube and checked accuracy. They claim to have gotten a 3/8" group with it. They didn't state the distance, I'm guessing 50m. That would be consistent with my experience shooting it.
I just don't want to have to send it in for routine work. Like you said, some day I might not be able to send it in for service, then what?
While I may not have the answer to your question I cannot help but chuckle a bit given the whole "pistons are better because they run cleaner" argument that some people harp on. :p Have you tried using a pressure washer on it? I'd disassemble it and spray it all down that way.
Otherwise, you could always sell the complete upper and use the cash towards a BCM upper. That way you would not have the burden of a piston system and not have to worry about stupid little things like this, or attempting to replace impossible proprietary parts.
The thing is, what if some day you cannot have them service it every time you need it cleaned, though? Given the political climate and the direction this country is going, I would not take such a thing for granted.
On the other hand... it sounds like Ruger is at least trying to make you happy no matter what their expense, which should be commended.
lol no worries :dance3:
I may have told you wrong, not fully knowing how the rifles piston system is set up. Let me do some research and see if I can find something for ya buddy.
Sorry for the confusion. I should have researched before answering...my apologies
My apologies I shouldn't have posted. I don't think as others have stated that there are other rails that will work. It's a pinned rail specifically designed for that rifle, due to the piston system. The barrel is phosphated and shouldn't rust. As someone else mentioned just hose it down with Brake Cleaner, let it dry...and be done with it. If it doesn't affect accuracy, or reliability I wouldn't worry about it. So long as it goes bang just keep shooting it. Since it's a hand-me-down, and you won't get rid of it. Just take advantage of Ruger's CS.
Maybe get another upper (non-piston) so you can still shoot/hunt when it in for service.
Yep exactly what I'm thinking. I'm waiting for good uppers to be available again and also full rifles as well. Just a matter of demand backing down a bit or production going up.
Mostly I was just ranting at what I think is a ridiculous design, even though functionally their piston is great.
No apologies needed :)
My apologies I shouldn't have posted. I don't think as others have stated that there are other rails that will work. It's a pinned rail specifically designed for that rifle, due to the piston system. The barrel is phosphated and shouldn't rust. As someone else mentioned just hose it down with Brake Cleaner, let it dry...and be done with it. If it doesn't affect accuracy, or reliability I wouldn't worry about it. So long as it goes bang just keep shooting it. Since it's a hand-me-down, and you won't get rid of it. Just take advantage of Ruger's CS.
Maybe get another upper (non-piston) so you can still shoot/hunt when it in for service.
Is the gun malfunctioning as a result of this "grime" under the hand guard?
Not at all.
I just don't like a dirty rifle, or one I can't disassemble enough to clean properly.
Is the gun malfunctioning as a result of this "grime" under the hand guard?
If it's the same as the SR-556E I found diagrams for, the handguard is removable--two screws, the flash hider, and the gas block/piston assy are all that stand in your way.
Remove the FH, remove the gas block, remove the two screws from the bottom of the rail near the receiver, and the whole thing pulls off.
Is yours a different version without the screws?
As far as I know the 556FB and the 556E both use rollpins, unless Ruger has changed something recently. The 556CLA apparently has screws holding the handguard on, but I haven't seen anything about removing it nor have I seen one in person. My FB has rollpins. I'd be very interested in knowing if those pins could be replaced with screws without affect the performance and reliability of the rifle.
You would have to remove the rollpins, 2 or 3 of them, I can't remember, in order to remove the handguard from mine.
If it's the same as the SR-556E I found diagrams for, the handguard is removable--two screws, the flash hider, and the gas block/piston assy are all that stand in your way.
Remove the FH, remove the gas block, remove the two screws from the bottom of the rail near the receiver, and the whole thing pulls off.
Is yours a different version without the screws?
You would have to remove the rollpins, 2 or 3 of them, I can't remember, in order to remove the handguard from mine.
I see now--found a close-up image of that one. Big roll pin on the bottom and the two small ones retaining the op rod at the top.
Looks like you'd have to stock up on pins if you wanted to regularly remove it for cleaning.
i also have an fb...it would be nice if the aftermarket would come up with a screw that could be used to replace the roll pins
You're obsessing over nothing. Spray some brake cleaner in there and then blow it out with a compressor.
Not at all.
I just don't like a dirty rifle, or one I can't disassemble enough to clean properly.
Flush it out with Break-Free powder blast and re-lube it with a spray oil like Break-Free in a can.
You must re-lube if you use powder-blast as it will strip all oils.
You're obsessing over nothing. Spray some brake cleaner in there and then blow it out with a compressor.
Any spray in oil either of you would recommend? I have had a few different kinds, but didn't really like them too much. They didnt seem to really last too long, and one basically evaporated.
Razorhunter
02-18-13, 08:54
I don't get it. Why don't you just buy a set of roll pin punches and take the rail off yourself?
As for replacing the roll pins permanently, I've never handled a Ruger AR, but the puns could potentially be replaced with properly sized solid pins, or the holes could possibly be tapped/threaded to then accept screws perhaps?? Again, this is all conjecture, as I've not handled a Ruger personally. Would have to see one up close to be sure. I'm betting an easy solution is indeed possible though.
You're obsessing over nothing. Spray some brake cleaner in there and then blow it out with a compressor.
Beat me to it.
Thanks to this forum, I have discovered the magic of brake cleaner. Already knew about air compressors. :D
I live in AZ. We have low humidity here so I rust is a non issue. I don't worry about lubing under my rails and handguards.
Any spray in oil either of you would recommend? I have had a few different kinds, but didn't really like them too much. They didnt seem to really last too long, and one basically evaporated.
Another option you have, if you're really OCD about a clean rifle. Is to dunk it in a bucket of hot water or use a hose, pressure washer, etc. and spray it down with wd40 after. Then lube it and it's good for storage.
Another option you have, if you're really OCD about a clean rifle. Is to dunk it in a bucket of hot water or use a hose, pressure washer, etc. and spray it down with wd40 after. Then lube it and it's good for storage.
I've taken this route. It works pretty well.
If you're really worried about it, use the cleaning method above for general maintenance with a detailed stripping every year to completely scrub the exterior of the barrel and inside the handguard.
In before littlelebowski and his brake cleaner.
Kidding.
In all seriousness, though, use some brake cleaner if you must worry.
Ruger keeps telling me that if I remove the handguard I'll mess up the alignment for the oprod, thus destroying the rifle. Do I believe them? Not really, but I don't know enough to argue with the people who design and build guns for a living. I don't want to take it apart myself until I can confirm that it's safe to do so. If someone has done it, it'd be awesome if they would chime in and post some pics too. :)
I was thinking exactly the same thing about replacing the rollpins.
I don't get it. Why don't you just buy a set of roll pin punches and take the rail off yourself?
As for replacing the roll pins permanently, I've never handled a Ruger AR, but the puns could potentially be replaced with properly sized solid pins, or the holes could possibly be tapped/threaded to then accept screws perhaps?? Again, this is all conjecture, as I've not handled a Ruger personally. Would have to see one up close to be sure. I'm betting an easy solution is indeed possible though.
Heavy Metal
02-18-13, 19:38
You're obsessing over nothing. Spray some brake cleaner in there and then blow it out with a compressor.
Don't forget to tell him to re-oil it or it will rust to hell.
You're obsessing over nothing. Spray some brake cleaner in there and then blow it out with a compressor.
Ditto Squared
I don't care all that much about the dirt. I just can't believe they'd rather pay the shipping and labor to clean it for me rather than designing it, like every other AR I know of, to be able to be completely disassembled by the average end user with basic tools and knowledge.
What's worse is you can't buy replacement parts for the piston system directly from them or anyone else.
Again I say, GRRRR
:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
In before littlelebowski and his brake cleaner.
Kidding.
In all seriousness, though, use some brake cleaner if you must worry.
To be fair, I totally admire the dedication Ruger has to customer service. I also really like their piston design. I just wish I could service it myself. :moil:
There were some patent drawings posted over on The Firearms Blog a year or two ago showing a QD barrel system from Ruger. From what I can remember, there was a folding handle attached to the gas block. The barrel and gas block came out the front of the handguard and the piston and rail stayed with the upper. Kind of an interesting idea and the general consensus was that Ruger was actually working on something from the USMC's M27 project. I don't know if that's true or not but it would help explain why Ruger didn't make the piston rod something that's easily removable.
Guess what? I have been saying this for a long time as have others. If you purchase a piston system, you have very little if any parts that are going to be off the shelf if you need to replace them.
I don't care all that much about the dirt. I just can't believe they'd rather pay the shipping and labor to clean it for me rather than designing it, like every other AR I know of, to be able to be completely disassembled by the average end user with basic tools and knowledge.
What's worse is you can't buy replacement parts for the piston system directly from them or anyone else.
Again I say, GRRRR
:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
I didn't purchase this rifle, I inherited it.
Guess what? I have been saying this for a long time as have others. If you purchase a piston system, you have very little if any parts that are going to be off the shelf if you need to replace them.
YOU was meant in a general sense, not YOU in particular.
I didn't purchase this rifle, I inherited it.
Of course. :)
And yeah, it's a huge con for the piston systems, in particular the Ruger system. At least other piston manufacturers give you access and will sell you parts for their systems.
YOU was meant in a general sense, not YOU in particular.
I also really like their piston design.
Given your multiple complaints, what is it exactly that you like about the design?
I like the piston system as it is reliable and runs well. I like the rifle as a whole when shooting it.
All of my complaints are focused on the same essential thing: the non-removable handguard and as a secondary rant the fact they won't sell you certain parts.
The impetus for this was the phone conversation I had with them.
Given your multiple complaints, what is it exactly that you like about the design?
RogerinTPA
02-19-13, 21:51
If no emotional attachment, sell it on Gunbroker or TOS, and wait for a 6920 to show up for sale in your local Walmart...
I am keeping the rifle. My wife would kill me otherwise! :)
I am planning on ordering a DDM4V7 in April barring any adverse political decisions being made preventing me from doing so. A LE6940 might be nice too. :D
If no emotional attachment, sell it on Gunbroker or TOS, and wait for a 6920 to show up for sale in your local Walmart...
I think you're obsessing about nothing...
I "care" for my rifles as in i do preventative and routine maintenance but i never clean them yet keep them liberally oiled.
I live in Florida, specifically South Florida the Armpit of the United States and i have yet to have a single rust issue with any of my AR's in spite of rain, humidity and mud...
As others have said, spray under the handguards with brake cleaner, oil the sucker up and keep shooting.
Every year or so if you want to take advantage of Rugers generosity...do it. You paid a premium for the rifle so you may as well take them up on THEIR offer.
Blargh, I'm not obsessing about the dirt. It's the principle dammit. :blink:
Ruger has already done some work to it on their dime. I could not be happier with their service and support.
Blargh, I'm not obsessing about the dirt. It's the principle dammit. :blink:
Ruger has already done some work to it on their dime. I could not be happier with their service and support.
In all seriousness, what principle?
You bought a rifle that for all intents and purposes is not user serviceable. If you had wanted to clean under the handguards dont you think the design of the rifle should have factored into your decision to keep it?
IF this is the principle you are speaking of this is kind of like bitching that you cant shift your automatic car like a manual...
You obviously haven't read the majority of this thread.
For I think the 3rd time:
I didn't buy or choose this rifle. I inherited it. I think it's ridiculous that it's the only AR that I'm aware of without a user removable handguard.
It reminds me of Apple and how you can't change the batteries on their handheld devices.
Does that clarify things for you?
In all seriousness, what principle?
You bought a rifle that for all intents and purposes is not user serviceable. If you had wanted to clean under the handguards dont you think the design of the rifle should have factored into your decision to keep it?
IF this is the principle you are speaking of this is kind of like bitching that you cant shift your automatic car like a manual...
You obviously haven't read the majority of this thread.
For I think the 3rd time:
I didn't buy or choose this rifle. I inherited it. I think it's ridiculous that it's the only AR that I'm aware of without a user removable handguard.
It reminds me of Apple and how you can't change the batteries on their handheld devices.
Does that clarify things for you?
I tell you what if it bothers you that much you can give it to me :D... In all seriousness though if you don't like the non serviceable aspect throw that puppy on gun broker and call it a day you could get a decent price out of it and get your self something new
I hear ya man. I bet I could get $2k-$2500 for it on GB. Alas, with politics as they are now, I'm not getting rid of any of my guns, inherited or not. Besides, other than the non-serviceable aspects, I actually like it a lot. It is a great shooting gun.
I tell you what if it bothers you that much you can give it to me :D... In all seriousness though if you don't like the non serviceable aspect throw that puppy on gun broker and call it a day you could get a decent price out of it and get your self something new
I did read the thread. Key word in my statement being "keep".
I don't really care if you read it or not, but you were kinda snarky (like a lot of posts on m4c; it seems snark is quite common here), so I'll reply in kind: Just pointing out that your posts clearly indicated that you either did not understand/comprehend the what was written or you simply hadn't really read it. Either way pretty much everything you had to say had already been addressed multiple times, and part of what you said was simply wrong. :rolleyes:
The only thing factoring into my decision to keep it is completely unrelated to the rifle's serviceability, so your point about keeping it is moot.
Anyway, moving on to being peeved about the Ruger's handguard whilst I peruse other more serviceable options for my next AR. :cool:
I did read the thread. Key word in my statement being "keep".
I did read the thread. Key word in my statement being "keep".
There are a lot of snarky posts here because the membership loses its patience with people that wont listen to other members who speak out of experience.
You OWN a Ruger SR556 that is NOT user serviceable without tools. The membership doesnt care how you came to possess this weapon,the bottom line is that until the socialist left wing assholes determine that we no longer have the freedom to buy "assault rifles", you still have the freedom to sell this weapon and acquire another one like you have discussed doing.
You complain about a "principle" when multiple people have told you repeatedly that there is NO issue to be worried about other than your own OCD. They have spoken out of experience, much like i did. My adopted Father survived Vietnam and despite having several XM177E2's due to other problems, never had an issue with rust...
To whine about snarky responses here when people have offered solid feedback is just....yeah...
Have a nice day.
I think it's ridiculous that it's the only AR that I'm aware of without a user removable handguard.
None of the monolithic railed rifles like the LMT or the Colt 6940 a removable handguard.
JBecker 72
02-23-13, 21:13
I can't take off my KAC URX III rail unless I buy the $125 wrench from Knights Armament. I don't see why I would need to remove it when I can easily use a can of brake clean, an air compressor and a can of clp to solve any crud buildup I might have.
I don't see where you have any issue at all.
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
Razorhunter
02-23-13, 21:17
First off, do NOT quote me on this, because I've not handled or even seen a Ruger piston gun up close, but I am betting you, and anyone else with a set of basic armorers tools (roll pin punches etc) could easily break down this gun in a matter of minutes. Yes, Ruger advises against it, for obvious (and imo ridiculous) reasons, but that gun is no tomahawk cruise missile, nor is any AR. Take a good look at how its put together and have at it. First however, I'd cruise all the major forums, including Rugers own forum (if they've got one??) , and find someone who has done it already. If you've got zero armorer experience, networking with others who have torn down a gp Ruger will be a huge help. I'm betting you can do this on your own tho, but like I said, I'm sure someone out there has taken their Ruger apart successfully. Nuttin but a thang...
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