View Full Version : Krylon paint job
I really like the painted AR's but is something that can be removed at a later time, or am I stuck with my spray painted AR when I'm done?
Thanks Matt
http://www.acetoneinhaling.zoomshare.com/files/acetone.jpg
http://www.acetoneinhaling.zoomshare.com/files/acetone.jpg
Listen to munch.
He's the man when it comes to cans that go 'rattle'.
-Jax
ETA: OP, your question would be better served in this thread:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=5102
http://www.acetoneinhaling.zoomshare.com/files/acetone.jpg
It almost looks like your avi drank the Acetone...kind of a.. Drink this--get this..:sarcastic:
talaananthes
02-20-13, 14:06
If you don't bake it, it comes off pretty easily.
talaananthes
02-20-13, 14:07
Of course if you want it to be permanent you CAN bake it on (an hour at 300 per coat, do light coats) and it'll be pretty durable. I've done a number of AKs and Saigas that way. Light even coats, prep well, regrease it INCREDIBLY THOROUGHLY and wear nitrile gloves the whole time.
talaananthes
02-20-13, 14:08
Oh, and I've found rustoleum works better than krylon for long term permanent application. I prefer 7220 light texture black. Preheat the rifle to about 120 before the first coat, heat the rattle can up under the hot water in your sink (just regular as hot as it goes from the tap) and make sure to shake it really really well.
Listen to munch.
He's the man when it comes to cans that go 'rattle'.
-Jax
ETA: OP, your question would be better served in this thread:
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=5102
Thanks bro. Trial and (lots of) error!
And good call with the thread link. I shoulda thought of that.
It almost looks like your avi drank the Acetone...kind of a.. Drink this--get this..:sarcastic:
:laugh:
Yeah, just go ahead and paint it. I use Aervoe or Krylon. If it chips, whatever. Spray more on or leave it be. Acetone or engine degreaser takes it right off. $5 can of Aervoe beats a $300 paint job for me everytime. Good luck.
:confused:
Yeah, just go ahead and paint it. I use Aervoe or Krylon. If it chips, whatever. Spray more on or leave it be. Acetone or engine degreaser takes it right off. $5 can of Aervoe beats a $300 paint job for me everytime. Good luck.
+1 on Aervoe. Cost effective and easily adaptable to a changing environ (spray some other color on).
digitalid99
02-20-13, 16:29
Check out this thread for a link to the Pat Rogers "Painting your Carbine" article on LF forum... Has step by step instructions with pictures, and he recommends Aervoe paint as well.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=84435
http://www.acetoneinhaling.zoomshare.com/files/acetone.jpg
Yep.
It'll take some elbow grease but you can get it off with Acetone. Some of the small stuff like the safety and FSB can really hang on the paint though.
If you don't bake it, it comes off pretty easily.
bake Krylon???
The_Hammer_Man
02-20-13, 20:14
bake Krylon???
I kinda went "say WHAT?" to that too. :lol:
Will acetone hurt the anodized aluminum or any other parts on an AR?
NYH1.
jonconsiglio
02-20-13, 20:41
No. I've used it on polymer as well.
+1 on the acetone for removal
Check out this thread for a link to the Pat Rogers "Painting your Carbine" article on LF forum... Has step by step instructions with pictures, and he recommends Aervoe paint as well.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=84435 Thanks for the great link! I will definitely check it out.
halfmoonclip
02-21-13, 14:15
I've used Brownells Alumahyde on furniture; given the one-week drying time, it seems totally resistant to oil and nitro solvent. I was building a retro gun, and until I found a minty original buttrap stock, the repainted one worked just fine.
Never had occasion to try to strip it.
Moon
Markasaurus
02-26-13, 13:31
Anyone who's ever cleaned any paint, off anything, probably is not eager to do it again anytime soon - generally it turns into a dirty sweaty mess that takes you twice as long as you thought it would. Plus you are attacking the finish with aggressive solvents which will probably work - but the risk of damaging the original finish is a near certainty..
two words - camouflage tape.
Who cares about the finish...it's a tool. Paint.
Tape comes off when it's most inconvenient, and leaves residue.
Anyone who's ever cleaned any paint, off anything, probably is not eager to do it again anytime soon - generally it turns into a dirty sweaty mess that takes you twice as long as you thought it would. Plus you are attacking the finish with aggressive solvents which will probably work - but the risk of damaging the original finish is a near certainty..
two words - camouflage tape.
Two words - Acetone dip.
Anodizing is a chemical process which results in a physical change to the surface. If you don't roughen the finish prior to applying paint, you can dunk the part in solvent and it will emerge as it was prior to being painted no worse for wear.
If you use something like an acid etch primer (like I do), you will have etching at a microscopic level, but it's also possible that it may come out undetected by the naked eye. I haven't stripped any AR parts which have been painted with the etching primer yet, so I can't confirm anything there.
Who cares about the finish...it's a tool. Paint.
Tape comes off when it's most inconvenient, and leaves residue.
My thoughts exactly.
I just stripped my after being painted with Aervoe and Rustoleum. Came off fine.
There was a bit of residue left, but hot soapy water took that off just fine. No damage to the original coating.:eek:
Laid down my new coats of paint.
jonconsiglio
02-27-13, 08:11
So far I've painted six of my rifles, two suppressors and a couple handguns. Also have painted three or four rifles that belong to friends, two to a forum member here.
It just works. Aervoe comes off with just a little work, Krylon even easier for me. But, on polymer it can be a pain in the ass.
xjustintimex
02-27-13, 11:56
What about stripping paint off of plastics like glock lowers
Honestly I dont even wipe mine down before I paint them. Its not a Ferrari.....It actually gets used.
Even with prep...using Krylon is gonna WEAR guaranteed. That being said, I try and double or triple coat ares that see lots of contact with bare hands, however when it wears, it just adds to breaking up shape and still works.
My magwells usually see the most contact when shooting kneeling or prone.
The Shawty has never been touched up....
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j468/Danger131/VaLiDPoiNT_zpsfb02aee4.jpg
The M4 got a touch up once....this is before. Both Carbines were sprayed...no prep
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j468/Danger131/M4geRy.jpg
I'm getting ready to clean and refinish one of mine sometime this year.
One of my concerns is how well the various paints show under IR light.
Anyone know anything about this?
NeoNeanderthal
02-27-13, 12:50
Painting let me get over the mental hurdle to start using the gun as a tool, and stop babying it.
Painting let me get over the mental hurdle to start using the gun as a tool, and stop babying it.
Yes, I guess some people don't think about it that way. What use is a really nice carbine with high end components if you're not going to run it as it should be ran? I guess the same could be said about cars for that matter. Paint it, run it hard, learn.
ramairthree
02-27-13, 13:38
Krylon, Rustoleum, etc. go on, are cheap, will wear, can easily be touched up, and with effort will come off.
Neither will cure/harden well.
Alumahyde cures well, but is thick enough to mess up tolerances and will not come off easy.
DiabhailGadhar
02-27-13, 18:47
Gentlemen there are tons of threads on this topic already....
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