Can I drop in these parts or should I take it to a smith?

[beschatten]

I recently just bought some Wilson combat parts and would like to replace the MIM parts in my Colt. I'm not sure if this is something I should do myself or take it to a funsmith.

Wilson Combat disconnector, WC bulletproof sear, and the WC flat trigger.

I know that some people tinker with the sears:confused:but given that WC should have made them in spec, is it safe to just drop in? Or should I take it to a smith to get the most out of it.

[glocktogo]

I recently just bought some Wilson combat parts and would like to replace the MIM parts in my Colt. I'm not sure if this is something I should do myself or take it to a funsmith.

Wilson Combat disconnector, WC bulletproof sear, and the WC flat trigger.

I know that some people tinker with the sears:confused:but given that WC should have made them in spec, is it safe to just drop in? Or should I take it to a smith to get the most out of it.

Hammer/sear engagements often need tweaking for safety and pull quality reasons. Not all 1911's are made to the same exact specs, there may be tolerance stacking issues and so on. Best to have that part fitted by a gunsmith with the proper equipment if you're not familiar with doing it yourself.

There's a possibility that it might drop in with no issues at all, but an equal possibility that it won't. Even if it did, how would you know if the fit was on the verge of unacceptable? JMO, YMMV

[texasgunhand]

gun smith for sure, thats not like your pulling the slide apart, let him tweak it while he has it...will be best for the long run..there should be no doubt its done right then....

[beschatten]

Allright. Thanks for the advice guys.

How about the flat trigger and disconnector? Is this something I can do myself? I'm pinchin for pennies :bad:

[glocktogo]

Allright. Thanks for the advice guys.

How about the flat trigger and disconnector? Is this something I can do myself? I'm pinchin for pennies :bad:

it all kinda goes together, well, together. :) Sometimes the trigger needs fitting as well, though that's a much easier task. The disconnector should just drop in, but you need to make shre it moves freely and without interference on the frame.

[beschatten]

Gotcha !!! Thanks guys.

[morbidbattlecry]

Anything in the trigger group should be taken to a smith.

[Moltke]

Gunsmith.

[CAVDOC]

If you really want them done right- gunsmith. I myself only replace parts once they break. I have exactly zero parts replaced except recoil and firing pin springs in the 1911's in my stable that combined have over 100 k through them. The old cliche it ain't broke don't fix it comes to mind

[R0CKETMAN]

Disco, sear for sure. You could probably handle the trigger.

Or you could just return them and shoot whatcha got.

[bigwagon]

Replacement triggers often need to be fitted to the frame. I've installed several three-hole style match triggers in my 1911s and none of them was a drop in. In all cases the oversized trigger shoe needed file and stone work to fit into the trigger slot. It's a pretty simple job if you ahve some patience and the right tools.

As for the sear and disconnector, that is a very easy swap if you know how to do a detail strip and function/safety check. But even if they drop in and pass the function check, you might end up with a crappy trigger break, and then you will probably need a good smith to do a trigger job, so you might as well just have the smith do the job right the first time.

[El Pistolero]

I would return the WC parts and get my money back. There is nothing wrong with the quality of the MIM parts Colt uses. Keep the flat trigger if you really want it. I would've just spent the money on a trigger job on the OEM parts.

[T2C]

I would hire a good gunsmith to replace any parts that require fitting. The gunsmith might also see something that requires their attention while your pistol is on their workbench.

[glocktogo]

I would return the WC parts and get my money back. There is nothing wrong with the quality of the MIM parts Colt uses. Keep the flat trigger if you really want it. I would've just spent the money on a trigger job on the OEM parts.

I will say that the stock trigger fit on my CRG is sloppy, and that's being generous. I'll probably swap a WC in there eventually.

[texasgunhand]

Like he said, even the triggers most of the time are not drop in like they say...Really any good pistol or rifle will last a lifetime of home defense use, maybe not 100k but 2-3k easy...i mean do what you can, Really worst case you have to take it to the smith anyways, Put in what you can, and let him finish it. that might save a few bucks....?

[Wake27]

I would return the WC parts and get my money back. There is nothing wrong with the quality of the MIM parts Colt uses. Keep the flat trigger if you really want it. I would've just spent the money on a trigger job on the OEM parts.

This, however...


I will say that the stock trigger fit on my CRG is sloppy, and that's being generous. I'll probably swap a WC in there eventually.

...this too. While there is nothing wrong with the MIM parts on a Colt, they certainly aren't WC. OP, if your goal is to get rid of the junk parts in your 1911, return what you bought because they're not necessary. If it is to upgrade some of the parts so they're just nicer, then keep them, but definitely have them professionally installed. FWIW, I swapped the thumb safety on my CRG with a WC BP one and am so glad that I did. Next will be a trigger and trigger job, grip safety, and maybe the mag and slide releases. IMO, the gun shoots and functions well and I'm not worried about the quality of the parts. I'm just doing these upgrades to improve the ergonomics and fit of the weapon. And because I just can't leave shit alone.


Like he said, even the triggers most of the time are not drop in like they say...Really any good pistol or rifle will last a lifetime of home defense use, maybe not 100k but 2-3k easy...i mean do what you can, Really worst case you have to take it to the smith anyways, Put in what you can, and let him finish it. that might save a few bucks....?

It'll cost more if he jacks something up. I probably would.

[fn1889m]

I think you can do this work if you are willing to invest in a good shop manual, get the Kuhnhausen 1911 manuals. If you are not willing to pay for those, or have a friend who can guide you, then pay someone to do the work. But it is rewarding to work on your own firearms.

Although 1911s are not really "drop in", they have become more modular over time. Parts from the upper end makers, such as Wilson, Brown, Colt, etc. have pretty uniform dimensions. But go slow, and be able to back up. And invest in the mnaual or have an experienced friend help you. It is like reloading.

Replace the sear and disconnect first, and see how it works with the factory hammer and trigger. Note that the trigger has to fit the sear, the sear has to fit the hammer, and the thumb safety engagement has to still work. If any one of these engagements do not work with the drop in sear, it is not drop in. My guess is that the trigger pull will not be any better than with the factory sear and disconnect. When you test fire it, start with ONE bullet in the magazine, then TWO for several mags. Make sure the hammer does not follow, ever, and that ALL safeties work. Assuming you have not had any work done on the pistol, there is a lot of overbuilt engagement in the sear and hammer. You would probably get a better trigger if you just stoned the factory hammer and sear, and stay with the factory parts. But I like to replace MIM parts, too, just because. It is simply personal preference.

The trigger may be more complex, in practice. It has to fit both the grip safety, frame, and sear. Some after market triggers always take fitting, and some high end frames always require the trigger to be fitted no matter what. But stock Colts have a lot of room in them. Drop in parts, including triggers, are designed to drop into Colts. Not into Les Baers. So try the trigger. If it fits in the frame, it will probably fit elsewhere. If it requires fitting to the frame, it will require fitting everywhere else too.

The main point is to read, and go slow. Get a good shop manual. If that is too much work, then pay someone. Like reloading.