MAK 90 Slant Cut signs?

[Dunderway]

Just wondering if any AK aficionados know of any tell-tale signs for spotting a Norinco Slant cut receiver vs. a normal receiver when that hideous import thumbhole stock is on. Serial # range or pins maybe?

I do not wish to own a slant cut, and most Gunbroker posters do not want to pull the stock and take a pic for me. Some are probably hiding the receiver, but I'm sure that others just bought the gun years ago for $150 and only know that they are going to make $600 off of it, and probably don't even know how to or want to bother with pulling the stock.

Thanks for any input, I've seen some good deals on these, but if I can't figure it out I will probably just buy a Maadi. At least SteyrAug helped me wrap my head around those.

[pistolman1974]

unfortunately, the best way to tell is to pull the stock. Ironwood designs makes stocks that fit the slant cut. I bought my mak 90 in 1994. Did the deban thing in 2004. Ive been very happy with it.

The MAK 90 didn't suffer from the issues that other AK's have, canted front sights...etc

[RearwardAssist]

Yes its very hard to tell with the stock on. I had a nhm-90 that was great, a buddy of mine fab an adapter for his slant cut receiver and it came out pretty well. I will snap a pic next time i go shoot with him.

[Bret]

+1 on no way to tell other than removing the buttstock. If they don't say, then you have to assume it's a slant cut.

[7.62WildBill]

Do not be afraid of the slant cut. They can still be decent guns.

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s488/wildwoodbill000/86BDAAE2-4F6C-42E2-ACD8-F5E64A7F1887-9527-000003A4925AF058_zpsf067e4c0.jpg

An unmodified MAK and a "fanged" version. I made the stock myself, but Ironwood Designs offers them for slant cut receivers as well.

[ramairthree]

+1 on no way to tell other than removing the buttstock. If they don't say, then you have to assume it's a slant cut.

yep, need to pull the stock.

MAK90 has great stamped receivers.

[Dunderway]

Thanks for the responses. I'm sure the slant cut guns are fine, but I hate to limit my future options, especially at the prices I will most likely pay right now.

[Trueno]

http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb390/AK_junky/ak_Chicom/386_t3_3052.jpg

http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb390/AK_junky/ak_Chicom/386_t3_3709.jpg

http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb390/AK_junky/ak_Chicom/386_t3_3752.jpg







I welded the milled MAK pictured above but maybe you could make friends with a welder at your local muffler shop. If you aquire a slant-cut then all ya gotta do is pass through the local stop-n-rob and grab a 6 or 12 pack and then go visit him/her and have em MIG up the rearend.

Once they pile some weld on the edges, it's your turn with the Dremel or 4" angle grinder.

t

[Dunderway]

Very cool. D you think this would be fine to do with a stamped gun?

One of my best friends is a very accomplished welder, so I'm sure we could make this happen. My only beef is paying an inflated price for a very nicely finished Norinco, then having to weld and refinish it. I can parkerize myself, but would rather just buy a straight cut gun if I can.

[Trueno]

You could have him use a series of either MIG or TIG tacks to join a sheetmetal extension to the side and bottom edges, then trim to fit. There actually used to be a "repair section" available commercially for just this situation, I have one in the gungeon but haven't seen it for a good while :p








http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb390/AK_junky/fab/misr90fab71_zps3ac909c5.jpg


One note on stamped slant-cut apps...sometimes there's a 1/8" thick plate that's been welded in the rear to fill the end of the rec'r. The rear tang of these rifles might have two screw holes in it instead of one, it's also possible that there won't be a screw hole in the rear trunnion under the recoil spring button.
I have pics of one like this detailing where the weld is. If anyone is trying to remove that plate, DO NOT try knocking it out from the inside, use a punch/hammer at the lower edge from the outside to knock the plate in. Once it starts "hinging" on the weld you'll figure the rest out fairly quick and be done in no time.
Work it back-n-forth until it the weld breaks, then Dremel the weld remnant off the trunnion so a stock will slip in.

t