View Full Version : What Progressive Press
I am probably starting something all over again but here I go anyway. I have a RCBS Rockchucker and I am thinking of upgrading to a Progressive. I am looking at the Dillon 650, the Hornady Lock-n-Load and the Lee Loadmaster. I will be reloading for 9mm, 45ACP, 5.56/.223 , .243 Win and 6.5-06. I already have dies for all these calibers. I am getting ready to retire so funds are not unlimited. Should I consider a lesser press and do .243Win and 6.5-06 on the Rockchucker? I don't have a lot of room but could make that work. Most shooting would be 5.56 and 9mm. Should I consider the Dillon 550?
Any thoughts on what to get considering prices? Don't give me the "save up" answer, just real cost/benefit ratio and maybe ease of use and periodic maintenance/setup problems. My time is not going to be really expensive and I enjoy reloading anyway.
If push comes to shove, I'll just stick to what I have, but I figure I can afford about $1k including a new scale (old 10-10 lost in a fire).
I would go with the 550 and never look back. While the 550 is not as fast as the 650, it is cheaper and much quicker to change calibers.
If you get a package that has what you need in it, the 550 will run you about $600ish while the 650 will be about $900ish with comparable accessories.
Your current dies will work fine with the 550.
Te PITA with the 550 is changing primer sizes...from large to small. You will quickly learn that having a separate tool head for each caliber is money well spent since you get things set up once and are done. As long as you are changing between calibers that have the same size primer...9mm and 223...changing calibers takes about 5-10 minutes.
I run a Rockchucker for low volume ammo and two 550s. One always has the large primer setup and the second one is setup for small primers.
I would go with the 550 and never look back. While the 550 is not as fast as the 650, it is cheaper and much quicker to change calibers.
If you get a package that has what you need in it, the 550 will run you about $600ish while the 650 will be about $900ish with comparable accessories.
Your current dies will work fine with the 550.
Te PITA with the 550 is changing primer sizes...from large to small. You will quickly learn that having a separate tool head for each caliber is money well spent since you get things set up once and are done. As long as you are changing between calibers that have the same size primer...9mm and 223...changing calibers takes about 5-10 minutes.
I run a Rockchucker for low volume ammo and two 550s. One always has the large primer setup and the second one is setup for small primers.
Will the 550 do the big cartridges? It looks like the 650 is about $160 more expensive than the 550 from eguns. How about caliber change costs?
For just the caliber conversion kit $45 vs $77. Can be a little misleading since you do not always need a caliber conversion kit. For example, going between 45 ACP and 308, no conversion kit is needed since both cartridges use the same shellplate and locator buttons. The only thing needed is the correct powder funnel.
How many rounds/month are we talking? Be honest with yourself. If you are not going to need to turn out 1000 pills of any single caliber per month, go with the LEE gear and don't look back. The load master is a good progressive that works well. It has it's quirks as do all progressives but the savings far out weighs the PITA factor if you are not going to be turning out more than a few hundred rounds in a sitting.
If you will really be working in volume then spend the extra $ up front and get the Dillon 650 or Hornady LNL AP.
If your going to do that many calibers forget about the lee unless you plan on a press for every caliber. Lee has way more quirks than any progressive. They are good for setting up one caliber, tune it and never change. With lee everytime you change caliber you will need to tinker.
The 550 is the best press for your needs. Changing primers is not that bad. It could be easier. The 550 will handle everything you want. You can also buy more toolheads and pieces as you go. Make sure to get enough primer pick up tubes so you can have them pre loaded.
i used every progressive other than the pro 2000 and maybe some older ones before i went 550. I could d have afforded what ever i wanted accept the 1050. The 1050 was a little outside the price range. It was my favorite. For my needs the 550 was the best press.
The 550 will give you the best benefit to cost ratio, and it is not slow. You can maintain 300 rounds per hour at a decent pace. Not killing yourself just working at a good pace.
With your budget you should be able to get what you need. Im talking toolheads for all calibers conversion kits, pick up tubes, and possibly powder measures for all the tool heads.
Contact chadbag by pm he is a member, and has good prices for dillon. I bought from him, he is a great retailer. If your budget runs short, i have a 5-05 you can have.
Will the 550 do the big cartridges? It looks like the 650 is about $160 more expensive than the 550 from eguns. How about caliber change costs?
I have a 550 and load 10mm, .45 ACP as well as .223/5.56. I know you can go up to some very large rifle calibers. I'd check Dillon's web sit they will have all that info.
I'd 2nd getting the 550. You have to index by hand but it's one less thing to go wrong or maintain on the press. The key to this press and I'm sure other progressive/semi-progressive is set up. Follow the instructions to the letter.
It takes me about 20 minutes to switch calibers, that's going from small primer tube to large primer and adding or removing the small charge block to powder dropper when switching between .45 and .223.
Will the 550 do the big cartridges?
What are the "big cartridges"?
For me, that's .308 and 300 WM... and I don't run either on my Progressive. ALL single stage with a charge master for powder feeding.
What are the "big cartridges"?
For me, that's .308 and 300 WM... and I don't run either on my Progressive. ALL single stage with a charge master for powder feeding.
30-06 would be as big as I go.
30-06 can be loaded on the 550. But that's something I'd run on my single... unless you're feeding 5 Garands or something. ;)
I'd get a 550 for that many calibers. Caliber coversions cost more for the 650 and if you're not going to do a ton of rounds the 550 will suite you better it sounds like. Plus you can't beat Dillons customer service/warranty.
I have an rcbs pro 2000 and it works for me. That being said, you cannot argue the fact that the Dillon presses have a ginormous following on every board with a reloading section. You get a following like that in one way only, quality. Listen to the Dillon guys.
RearwardAssist
03-06-13, 11:16
I picked up a 650 and love it but I load 4 calibers in large amounts at a time. I usually wont switch it over unless Im going to load 1000+ if I were going to be doing smaller batches I would probably go with the 550. And yes both of the dillons will load the 30-06. The only caliber the 550 will load that the 650 wont is the 338 lapua to my knowledge.
davestarbuck
03-06-13, 14:42
I own and use a 550, a 650, and a Lee Classic Turret.
I'd say the 550 is the most adaptable of the three.
But the LCT isn't a bad press, and with practice you can be quite fast with it. I still use it as a single stage press.
The 650 is tops for speed, it's great with the RT1200 trimmer for processing 223 brass. But it's quirky, especially the priming system.
I
But it's quirky, especially the priming system.
I NEVER prime on my Dillon 550b any more. I feed that thing Cleaned, Sized, Trimmed, and Primed brass only.
30-06 can be loaded on the 550. But that's something I'd run on my single... unless you're feeding 5 Garands or something. ;)
Agree, but the 550 can easily be used as a single stage, and with similar quality/accuracy, correct?
I too am about to pull the trigger on a 550B, and then wait my 8 weeks for delivery. :rolleyes:
Agree, but the 550 can easily be used as a single stage, and with similar quality/accuracy, correct?
Absolutely. I've loaded 1/4 MOA .223 ammo on mine.
The reason I load large caliber on the single stage is that I'm usually only doing 50 rounds at a time. And it's not worth a caliber conversion process.
My Big Boss 2 has the Lock N Load conversion kit in the press and I can jump into any caliber and any die in 5 seconds.
I too have used a rock chucker for many years and it has served me well. But I did go with a Hornady LNL AP press last year and have not looked back. It is a GREAT press and I have loaded 223, 7.62x39, 9mm, 45LC, 8mm, 45-70, 30-06 and 308. I feel it has the best primer feed set up and smoothest indexing it will spill some powder when loading 9mm if you run a full case but its not a problem. Their customer support is great I had a primer shuttle come apart and it was replaced for free after a phone call. I would recommend one to a friend.
Absolutely. I've loaded 1/4 MOA .223 ammo on mine.
The reason I load large caliber on the single stage is that I'm usually only doing 50 rounds at a time. And it's not worth a caliber conversion process.
My Big Boss 2 has the Lock N Load conversion kit in the press and I can jump into any caliber and any die in 5 seconds.
Thanks. I knew I had read that. I see many toolheads in my future.
Sparky5019
03-06-13, 17:12
I have 2 1050s and a 650; I love them all! Currently using 1 1050 for 5.56. My thought was, I did not have to hand process brass and could just load. You still have to trim though. Dillon makes great tools for that as well! Good luck!
Sparky
davestarbuck
03-06-13, 21:18
I NEVER prime on my Dillon 550b any more. I feed that thing Cleaned, Sized, Trimmed, and Primed brass only.
I'm too lazy to deprime and size 9mm off press, which is 99 percent of its use (the 650)!
I'm loading a lot of 308 and 5.56 single stage lately, as I've got over 6k of my practice 223 loaded up. It's relaxing!
steyrman13
03-07-13, 01:41
I NEVER prime on my Dillon 550b any more. I feed that thing Cleaned, Sized, Trimmed, and Primed brass only.
Out of curiosity, why not? Would you if you were using the 650 or the Hornady LNL AP? Is it just hard to tell if you are fully seating the primer? Is that for all brass or mainly .223/5.56?
I do not prime rifle rounds on my 550. I use imperial and do not like to tumble after Im done loading, or getting any lube in the dies. So i decap/size on the rock chucker, then i tumble in corn for about 30 minutes. Trim (i trim everytime) with the trim pro with 3 way cutter, then prime with rcbs universal hand primer. Then run it through the 550.
Pistol brass gets primed on the 550. Revolver brass gets primed on the 550 after its first loading. I trim revolver brass once, so i get consistent roll crimpsm
The only thing Im going to change is my trimming method. I would get a giraud, but dorm everything i trim it would be costly. Plus it uses the shoulder to index off.
Out of curiosity, why not? Would you if you were using the 650 or the Hornady LNL AP? Is it just hard to tell if you are fully seating the primer? Is that for all brass or mainly .223/5.56?
I got sick of smashing primers, seating them upside down and the general lifesuck of the system.
By running primed brass through the Dillon, I can check every powder charge and am MORE focused since I'm not cussing and trouble shooting the stupid priming system every hundred rounds.
steyrman13
03-07-13, 07:39
I got sick of smashing primers, seating them upside down and the general lifesuck of the system.
By running primed brass through the Dillon, I can check every powder charge and am MORE focused since I'm not cussing and trouble shooting the stupid priming system every hundred rounds.
Understood. Does that "stupid" priming system apply to only the 550 or the 650 and LNL AP as well?
Understood. Does that "stupid" priming system apply to only the 550 or the 650 and LNL AP as well?
My priming system is old, crusty, and fussy. Lots of guys have good luck with their 550 priming systems.
steyrman13
03-07-13, 08:39
Thanks for the info. New to progressive presses. Just making sure there wasn't a specific issue related to that model
Thanks for the info. New to progressive presses. Just making sure there wasn't a specific issue related to that model
Nope... Mine is just older than hell. I could tune it up with new parts and all. But I kinda like running primed brass into the machine.
All the hard work is done and the rounds flow out like wine! :D
Get an RCBS hand primer and/or their APS primer and never look at priming on a press (with all its problems) again. You will get a much better feel for how the primer is seating, whether the primer hole is too tight or too loose, etc by hand priming.
I've got a Rockchucker(with a Piggyback even!), and a 650, and never prime on the press.
I've got a Rockchucker(with a Piggyback even!), and a 650, and never prime on the press.
My long lost brother! :D
Yep.. I run the Sinclair hand primer. It's a high maintenance mofo... but I can't complain considering the ridiculous volume I run through it.
My 550 has no problems with the pricing system, but the press is only a few months old. After ten plus years of priming by hand is hard to brake the cycle.
Op a new one should give you no problems with priming.
Not worried about priming, I use an RCBS hand primer for everything anyway.
Boxerglocker
03-08-13, 08:07
I only hand prime my Lapua match brass for the bolt gun, only 100-200 at a time, using a Horandy. All my AR loads get prepped on a XL650 and loaded on the Super 1050B.
theblackknight
03-08-13, 08:32
I'm too lazy to deprime and size 9mm off press, which is 99 percent of its use (the 650)!
Why would anyone who owns a progressive press not use it to decap and resize pistol brass?
sent from mah gun,using my sights
Why would anyone who owns a progressive press not use it to decap and resize pistol brass?
I don't even bother with 9mm anymore... but for .45 I decap on the single stage because I run it in the SS media tumbler.
Then I resize and prime on the single stage and box up the primed brass. When I get 500 or 1000, I run them on the Dillon. Again... not wanting to **** with flipped and smashed primers, and having to refill the primer tube, etc.... JUST BLOW AND GO!
theblackknight
03-08-13, 09:16
Well what does that actually get you? Just a shiny primer pocket? Im asking cause I dont have the space for a tumbler yet.
sent from mah gun,using my sights
Yep. Clean brass. I won't even consider loading dry tumbled brass anymore. There's that... And the ability to watch my powder and bullet seating stations without distractions from empty primer tubes, and primer jams. With pistol, I can just fill the hopper with powder and do a thousand rounds nearly non-stop.
Plus decapping off the main press keeps the nice press cleaner. The other thing is that when I used to dry tumble with the primer in, the media would stick in the primer and add the mess on the machine when I decapped.
It's just a cleaner overall process.
With the coin I just dropped on a new 550B, that sucker better be a sweet priming mofrackie.
Assuming it arrives within the next year, that is. :p
It should run fine. I ran mine for years.
I have had excellent results with the Hornady Lock N Load AP. No experience with Dillon.
theblackknight
03-08-13, 12:57
Lol got it. I have a mirror/flashlight/ system to make sure everything gets fed. Im new to loading but it works now
sent from mah gun,using my sights
That's another good point. Clean brass is easier to see powder charges in.
I could rebuild my Dillon feeding system and pick up some speed... no doubt. But I'm very much into slowing things down and focusing on quality.
I do need a good press light set up though..
Why would anyone who owns a progressive press not use it to decap and resize pistol brass?
sent from mah gun,using my sights
Get the small Dillon vibratory cleaner and use corn cob media with some type of polish (preferably Dillon). There is no need to Not do every step at once for pistol loads on a progressive with a carbide sizer die. Especially if you are a high volume shooter - it's just nuts to put in extra steps for pistol loads.
Rifle?...Different story.
I could rebuild my Dillon feeding system and pick up some speed... no doubt. But I'm very much into slowing things down and focusing on quality.
I agree with this. Slowing things down is always a good idea when reloading.
I used to have the case feeder on my Lock N Load AP and in my experience it can cause more harm then good. I prefer to reload without it so i don't have to worry about that station.
theblackknight
03-09-13, 21:35
Get the small Dillon vibratory cleaner and use corn cob media with some type of polish (preferably Dillon). There is no need to Not do every step at once for pistol loads on a progressive with a carbide sizer die. Especially if you are a high volume shooter - it's just nuts to put in extra steps for pistol loads.
Rifle?...Different story.
No doubt, I did that 28$ bullet feeder just so I could spend more time making sure all the other steps were happening every pull.
Problem is I live in apartment so Im weary of getting a tumbler till we get a house.
sent from mah gun,using my sights
I agree - inside the house is not the best place for a vibratory cleaner. A patio or balcony could work if you have a dry area for storage.
theblackknight
03-11-13, 22:57
I do need a good press light set up though..
I got a craftsman version of the snake light and a cheapo mirror from auto parts store. I can visually see my powder and bullets feed and the primer swinging over.
sent from mah gun,using my sights
I got a craftsman version of the snake light and a cheapo mirror from auto parts store. I can visually see my powder and bullets feed and the primer swinging over.
I'm going to have to attack that. It's going to be one of those deals where I'm asking myself why I waited so long to get decent light in there.
My local gun shop has some RCBS gear in stock including .223 and .44 mag dies I was thinking of buying them and ordering the Hornaday lock n load from the same dealer. I know I will be waiting for powder, primers and bullets but wanted to check here to see if there was a reason not to buy the RCBS dies. He has one Rock Chucker in stock too that I might buy and just skip the progressive.
My local gun shop has some RCBS gear in stock including .223 and .44 mag dies I was thinking of buying them and ordering the Hornaday lock n load from the same dealer. I know I will be waiting for powder, primers and bullets but wanted to check here to see if there was a reason not to buy the RCBS dies. He has one Rock Chucker in stock too that I might buy and just skip the progressive.
You can buy the Rock Chucker and get the LNL conversion.
That's what I did with my BIG BOSS 2. I can't live without that quick change on dies.
I have Lee, Pacific, Hornady, and RCBS dies and they all work fine. I would
suggest getting carbide dies for pistol like 9mm. I use a little lube with the
carbide dies but you do not need as much. The Pacific dies are chrome and 30
plus years old and work just fine for 38/357.
If I were to buy a new Hornady single stage press with the die bushings.
could I interchange between the LNL AP and the single stage without having
to readjust the dies for each press?
If I were to buy a new Hornady single stage press with the die bushings.
could I interchange between the LNL AP and the single stage without having
to readjust the dies for each press?
There's just no way... at least on any of the critical setting dies.... maybe on a decap only die or something.
I NEVER prime on my Dillon 550b any more. I feed that thing Cleaned, Sized, Trimmed, and Primed brass only.
yep. I removed the priming function from my progressive. priming one at a time keeps the processes separate and gives me time to give a final inspection to each case...
yep. I removed the priming function from my progressive. priming one at a time keeps the processes separate and gives me time to give a final inspection to each case...
Yeah.. my operating rod it out.... but the priming bar and all that is still in place.
These whipper snappers will eventually come around to the notion of Snooty, pinky up, fine ammo. :p
Thursday after work I am going over to my friends to get some hands on with a press YouTube videos have been helpful but its not enough.
Feel is everything to me when working my press or any other device in reloading. Hands on is manditory.
Here's an option for a press light that mounts inside the work area.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reloader-LED-Lighting-Hornady-Dillon-Lee-RCBS-Reloading-Light-/261183836350?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ccfc510be
We have a similar one on the 650 and it works well.
theblackknight
03-13-13, 09:59
Once you get your rhythm right, its smooth after that.
If you have a single stage, the biggest challenge is staying awake:D
sent from mah gun,using my sights
I have 2 Dillon 550s. Excellent press. You would not be disappointed.
I have had a Dillon 550 since 1991 and have loaded at least 5,000 rounds per year on it and it is a wonderful machine. I have loaded 9mm, 38 /357,40 S@W.45 acp, 308, 30/06, 223, 338 lapua and 300 Weatherby mag on it over the years. Great press and great warranty. I would without reservations buy another 550 or a 650 for the other abilities the 650 has.
whiskey lake
03-25-13, 10:30
I have a Hornady LNL and I LOVE it! Wouldnt trade it for anything. I use any and all brands of dies and have never had a problem.
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