View Full Version : Any ideas on how/where to pin Magpul STR stock?
TheHolyCannoli
03-13-13, 22:14
I've been searching for any information on pinning the STR stock but can't find anything other than instructions for pinning the CTR. Seems like the problem is the non-removable battery tubes that prevent access to the lower side of the buffer tube. I can't come up with any reasonable place to put the pin other than under the rubber cap. Still, I can't tell if that's high enough to actually bite into the tube, or more importantly, forward enough to contact the tube if the stock is in any position other than fully collapsed.
Has anyone successfully pinned the STR without demolishing the stock?
http://customar15.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/STR.jpg
http://www.weaponoutfitters.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/m/a/magpul_str_blk_4_.jpg
evenodds20
03-13-13, 23:13
just find the most comfortable position then take it to a gunsmith and have them do it.
Could you just pin the adjustment lever or does it have to go into the tube?
Could you just pin the adjustment lever or does it have to go into the tube?
This what I'm trying to find out too. I'm in New Yorkistan and want to put a Magpul ACS Stock on my Colt. The ACS is similar to the CTR.
NYH1.
This what I'm trying to find out too. I'm in New Yorkistan and want to put a Magpul ACS Stock on my Colt. The ACS is similar to the CTR.
NYH1.
Just run the pin through the friction lock lever on the front of the stock but so it still goes through the center structure if that makes sense. It doesn't need to actually go into the RE since the statute just says it has to be non-collapsing.
i think that you can just drill a self tapping screw under the friction lock into the stock itself. once its in, grind off the head of the screw to give it a cleaner look.
TheHolyCannoli
03-14-13, 14:19
Just run the pin through the friction lock lever on the front of the stock but so it still goes through the center structure if that makes sense. It doesn't need to actually go into the RE since the statute just says it has to be non-collapsing.
Haven't thought of that method before, but it seems somewhat feasible. 2 issues I can see already being that a screw going upwards through the friction lever and into the frame of the stock might split the polymer frame. Second potential problem being, is the friction lock (fixed in a locked position) actually strong enough to prevent the stock from sliding into different positions? Last thing I want is a LEO or ATF agent pushing the butt stock against the ground and making the stock collapse.
Haven't thought of that method before, but it seems somewhat feasible. 2 issues I can see already being that a screw going upwards through the friction lever and into the frame of the stock might split the polymer frame. Second potential problem being, is the friction lock (fixed in a locked position) actually strong enough to prevent the stock from sliding into different positions? Last thing I want is a LEO or ATF agent pushing the butt stock against the ground and making the stock collapse.
So long as you catch enough meat of the stock with with the pin you should be fine, one would have to shear the pin for it to release. And being a state law ATF could care less.
TheHolyCannoli, I've also thought of using epoxy to "glue" mine in place so to say. Some epoxy's are very strong, stronger then pin's. This might be a better option. I'm not worried about the parts never working again. When we do get out of New York, I'll just get a new stock, ET, end plate ect and be done with it then.
I'm being very cautious as well. I'd hate to do it the wrong way and have ultra anti andy cuomo's personal army, the New York State Police jam me up. As you can imagine, this guy is horrible and out of control. The NYSP are going to do what he tells them to do.
Good luck, NYH1.
TheHolyCannoli
03-14-13, 18:53
So long as you catch enough meat of the stock with with the pin you should be fine, one would have to shear the pin for it to release. And being a state law ATF could care less.
Maybe I'm confusing something since I've never actually played with a stock that has the friction lock.
This is my understanding of how they work...stock locks into position using the typical adjust lever, then the friction lock is engaged to essentially camp the stock and buffer tube together a bit tighter to eliminate wobble. To move the stock, you squeeze the typical adjust lever, which simultaneously retracts a tab/pin from the buffer tube slots and disengages the friction lock.
So with that set up, the friction lock better be damn strong to keep the stock from moving if I squeeze the adjust lever and retract the tab/pin from the buffer tube. From a physics standpoint, I can't see how the drag of the friction lock is going to keep the stock in place.
On the STR and CTR depressing the standard latch mechanism forces the manipulation of the friction lock. If the friction lock cannot be manipulated the standard latch will not disengage, thus the position of the stock cannot be changed.
TheHolyCannoli
03-14-13, 19:32
On the STR and CTR depressing the standard latch mechanism forces the manipulation of the friction lock. If the friction lock cannot be manipulated the standard latch will not disengage, thus the position of the stock cannot be changed.
Gotcha. That makes sense.
Soooo.....anybody willing to be the first to try this on their STR/CTR?
I pinned my old CTR for a 'featureless' build here in CA.
just need a 1" x 1/8" roll pin. took about 2 minutes.
a little bit of a crude photo, but it gets the point across. Just drill an 1/8" hole, and squeeze the pin in. You're just preventing the latch to disengage.
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx14/TD236/b17db6b3-de15-43fa-b674-3c72d217d241_zps87148377.jpg
Tomtom,
I can't tell from the pic but does the pin run through that little notch directly under the lever to the left of the cross-bolt? If if does you know you can just pull down on the cross-bolt and reposition the stock still right?
Actually you're right, I forgot that on the CTR I had to run another roll pin going up through the friction lever too (you can see the **** up to the left of the friction lock- it went in crooked)
I ended up switching to a SOPMOD, using the same idea through the latch. This CTR is now on my 15-22.
Yea, its pretty straightforward on the Sopmod lol
NeoNeanderthal
03-15-13, 00:50
This may be stupid but whats to stop you from drilling down from the top? Close to the front so your cheek doesn't contact the pin? Then tap in a roll pin until its flush. Am i missing something?
This may be stupid but whats to stop you from drilling down from the top? Close to the front so your cheek doesn't contact the pin? Then tap in a roll pin until its flush. Am i missing something?
Top of what? The stock itself? I'm not tracking.
NeoNeanderthal
03-15-13, 01:44
dont live in a commi state so ive never pinned a stock. But yeah straight down through the cheek weld into the buffer tube
The tube isn't all that thick so all that would do is disrupt the operation of the buffer and/or spring.
TheHolyCannoli
03-15-13, 15:09
I pinned my old CTR for a 'featureless' build here in CA.
just need a 1" x 1/8" roll pin. took about 2 minutes.
a little bit of a crude photo, but it gets the point across. Just drill an 1/8" hole, and squeeze the pin in. You're just preventing the latch to disengage.
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx14/TD236/b17db6b3-de15-43fa-b674-3c72d217d241_zps87148377.jpg
That's a decent idea, but I was asking about the STR stock. The CTR is easy as you can put the pin on the ridge just below the cheek weld. You can't do that on the STR, and you can't do what you suggested in the green circle on the STR either.
I'm not going to put anything through the top of the tube, because obviously that would screw with the buffer spring. I'm thinking about just going horizontal through the friction lever, as long as there is enough plastic between the 2 sides of the lever to hold the pin securely.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0APA_0wSnfw/UUOCC1S12jI/AAAAAAAAAd8/F_v-2F8UDkI/s800/61LRPcQ0WzL._SL1000_.jpg
Correct, and in all honesty you could probably just use a bolt. doesn't say it has to be a pin afterall.
NeoNeanderthal
03-15-13, 18:43
. I'm thinking about just going horizontal through the friction lever, as long as there is enough plastic between the 2 sides of the lever to hold the pin securely.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0APA_0wSnfw/UUOCC1S12jI/AAAAAAAAAd8/F_v-2F8UDkI/s800/61LRPcQ0WzL._SL1000_.jpg
Could you drill a hole on the red mark (all the way through) and then use a bolt and small loc-tited nut so it cant pull through? This would be "permanent" in the sense that you wouldnt be able to adjust it with your bare hands. Would this fulfill needed requirements?
TheHolyCannoli
03-15-13, 19:55
Could you drill a hole on the red mark (all the way through) and then use a bolt and small loc-tited nut so it cant pull through? This would be "permanent" in the sense that you wouldnt be able to adjust it with your bare hands. Would this fulfill needed requirements?
I haven't seen anything that specifies "how" it needs to be converted to a permanent stock. Even if it requires time and a tool or multiple tools, I'd like to be able to change the stock position without completely destroying the stock in the process. I don't foresee an real reason to make any adjustments unless the addition of a magnifier in the future changes how far/close my face would need to be in relation to the rail.
Can anyone comment on what is underneath the friction lock lever? Is it a solid plastic frame or does it look like the ribbed/cutout portion of the frame?
Could you drill a hole on the red mark (all the way through) and then use a bolt and small loc-tited nut so it cant pull through? This would be "permanent" in the sense that you wouldnt be able to adjust it with your bare hands. Would this fulfill needed requirements?
Wouldn't take any more tools than whats needed to drive out a roll pin so rock on.
Travelingchild
03-16-13, 08:26
Silly Idea If your running stock fully extended? take off the rear butt plate 2 allen screws, Go to your local hardware store find some pvc pipe cut to length wrap in duct tape for a secure fit reinstall butt plate.
Stock will not collapse no modification of stock needed.
Of course will only work at full extension,
Oh Have plan B in works if not:D
TheHolyCannoli
03-16-13, 15:18
Silly Idea If your running stock fully extended? take off the rear butt plate 2 allen screws, Go to your local hardware store find some pvc pipe cut to length wrap in duct tape for a secure fit reinstall butt plate.
Stock will not collapse no modification of stock needed.
Of course will only work at full extension,
Oh Have plan B in works if not:D
:rolleyes:
Plan is to be about 2 adjustments from fully collapsed.
Travelingchild
03-16-13, 17:11
Actually I have a plan B in the works, Have to hit the shop it will require zero modifications to your stock, If I pull it off;)
I'll post pics but you have to omit the roll eyes If you want me to mail it to you!:p
Travelingchild
03-16-13, 18:53
Disclaimer. I don't know the exact wording so this Idea may or may not work.
If I understand correctly the adjustment lever must be disabled or rendered unfunctional?
My solution
#1 remove stock using supplied mapul tool
#2 install blocking strips leaving desired hole accessable.http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd214/fallsafe/DSC_0011.jpg
I used derlin strips but anything hardwoods will work, I used double stick tape to hold it to the buffer tube.
#3reinstall stock using magpull supplied tool,
Stock will only lock into available hole & not be adjustable.Friction lock still works
Stock will still be removable and strips can be removed if moving to a local without silly rules.
filler strips must flush out with buffer tube to render lever unoperable.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd214/fallsafe/DSC_0012.jpg
TheHolyCannoli
03-16-13, 19:01
Disclaimer. I don't know the exact wording so this Idea may or may not work.
If I understand correctly the adjustment lever must be disabled or rendered unfunctional?
My solution
#1 remove stock using supplied mapul tool
#2 install blocking strips leaving desired hole accessable.http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd214/fallsafe/DSC_0011.jpg
I used derlin strips but anything hardwoods will work, I used double stick tape to hold it to the buffer tube.
#3reinstall stock using magpull supplied tool,
Stock will only lock into available hole & not be adjustable.Friction lock still works
Stock will still be removable and strips can be removed if moving to a local without silly rules.
filler strips must flush out with buffer tube to render lever unoperable.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd214/fallsafe/DSC_0012.jpg
That's crafty and doesn't damage anything. I just wonder if my state would consider that compliant. Even though the stock can't lock into any other position, it can still slide up/down the buffer tube. Don't know if that would nullify it as being a fixed stock.
What a pain in the ass
Travelingchild
03-16-13, 19:09
it can still slide up/down the buffer tube.
Actually it doesn't and it can't if done correctly, Flip your buffer tube upside down, the filler strip must be flush with the buffer tube, note how the magpul supplied tool depressess the retaining pin to clear it till it drops into the slot?
I've been playing with it just using the lever it won't move period.
I actually have to use a small flathead screwdriver under the pivot pin in order to retract the locking pin to get the stock off.
Travelingchild
03-16-13, 19:21
Strips need to be about 1/8 depth by 5/15 wide sanding to fit.
then cut to the correct length. double stick tape or silicone in place
Anyone with Magpul Connections? They could probably mold some up that would pressure fit.
HC Pm me a mailing address, I'll throw it in the mail. I don't have to deal with that crap, was just bored.
TheHolyCannoli
03-16-13, 19:35
Strips need to be about 1/8 depth by 5/15 wide sanding to fit.
then cut to the correct length. double stick tape or silicone in place
Anyone with Magpul Connections? They could probably mold some up that would pressure fit.
HC Pm me a mailing address, I'll throw it in the mail. I don't have to deal with that crap, was just bored.
I get it now, awesome idea. Thanks. I PM'ed you.
I pinned my Magpul ACS Stock (similar to yours) last night. I drilled two 1/8" holes and put 1/8" roll pins about where you put the red dot on your picture above. It was easy and it locks the bottom latch that keeps the upper latch from moving.
There is was no real way to collapse the stock this way. I also went one step farther. I put epoxy on the receiver extension and inside the stock to keep it from wiggling. I don't like the stock to wiggle/move at all. I just can't get used to that.
If you don't mind me asking, what state are you in?
NYH1.
TheHolyCannoli
03-17-13, 19:18
I pinned my Magpul ACS Stock (similar to yours) last night. I drilled two 1/8" holes and put 1/8" roll pins about where you put the red dot on your picture above. It was easy and it locks the bottom latch that keeps the upper latch from moving.
There is was no real way to collapse the stock this way. I also went one step farther. I put epoxy on the receiver extension and inside the stock to keep it from wiggling. I don't like the stock to wiggle/move at all. I just can't get used to that.
If you don't mind me asking, what state are you in?
NYH1.
Thanks for the info. I'm hoping to use TravellingChild's idea So I don't have to damage any part of the new stoc, but it's good to know that there is enough "meat' behind the friction lever to keep things secure. Any chance you could post a pic or two of your method?
My STR should arrive between Thurs-Sat this week, so I won't get to tinker until the weekend.
Thanks for the info. I'm hoping to use TravellingChild's idea So I don't have to damage any part of the new stoc, but it's good to know that there is enough "meat' behind the friction lever to keep things secure. Any chance you could post a pic or two of your method?
My STR should arrive between Thurs-Sat this week, so I won't get to tinker until the weekend.
Honestly. . . . .I don't know how to post pictures.
I can take a pic with my cell phone and text it to you. Sorry, but that's it for me.
NYH1.
2nd.amendment
03-18-13, 06:58
A little late to the party but can pop the storage tubes off like the ACS? I haven't used a STR myself, but I would wager the design is the same. I have been tempted to buy one, because I thought you could hide the pin under the cover. I can't tell if there maybe a rivot holding the rear of the storage tube in place in the picture with the storage tube cap removed . . . if that is the case, this is probably a no-go.
See here for the process with an ACS . . .
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/build-yourself/83883-how-pin-magpul-acs-stock.html
If that doesn't work, as another option you could also simply drill all the way through the very front of the storage tubes (where they angle in toward the receiver extension) and put in a roll pin that is about 1 1/4 inches. I actually pinned a B5 Bravo stock last night and that is what I had to do, took less than 5 minutes.
TheHolyCannoli
03-18-13, 16:39
A little late to the party but can pop the storage tubes off like the ACS? I haven't used a STR myself, but I would wager the design is the same. I have been tempted to buy one, because I thought you could hide the pin under the cover. I can't tell if there maybe a rivot holding the rear of the storage tube in place in the picture with the storage tube cap removed . . . if that is the case, this is probably a no-go.
See here for the process with an ACS . . .
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/build-yourself/83883-how-pin-magpul-acs-stock.html
If that doesn't work, as another option you could also simply drill all the way through the very front of the storage tubes (where they angle in toward the receiver extension) and put in a roll pin that is about 1 1/4 inches. I actually pinned a B5 Bravo stock last night and that is what I had to do, took less than 5 minutes.
I can't remember where I saw the pictures, but I believe the STR has 3 or 4 rivets holding the entire battery tube onto the stock.
I have an ACS stock on my SPR in NJ and the battery tubes are removable once you take off the butt-plate. They slide out with only a little effort and are held in with tabs. You have to remove the rubber caps as well, they are held in with arrow shaped rubber tabs attached to them, I was able to wiggle them out.
Once I removed the tubes I was able to pin through the solid aluminum portion of the tube which locks in the stock position.
Slide the tubes back on, re install the cover and butt plate and go to the range.
I don't know if the SRT stock works the same way, but that is how I did my ACS.
The MOE stocks I have are pinned through the plastic directly above the adjustment lever. I used a bit of Epoxy to make sure the pins don't walk out... don't need any troubles from the RO or LEO.
A little late to the party but can pop the storage tubes off like the ACS? I haven't used a STR myself, but I would wager the design is the same. I have been tempted to buy one, because I thought you could hide the pin under the cover. I can't tell if there maybe a rivot holding the rear of the storage tube in place in the picture with the storage tube cap removed . . . if that is the case, this is probably a no-go.
See here for the process with an ACS . . .
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/build-yourself/83883-how-pin-magpul-acs-stock.html
If that doesn't work, as another option you could also simply drill all the way through the very front of the storage tubes (where they angle in toward the receiver extension) and put in a roll pin that is about 1 1/4 inches. I actually pinned a B5 Bravo stock last night and that is what I had to do, took less than 5 minutes.
Exactly how I did it...
TheHolyCannoli
03-21-13, 19:32
My Magpul comes tomorrow, so I figured I'd get the pinned stock off tonight.
Holy hell did I make a mess of my stock trying to get the pins out. I read in a few different places that people were drilling into the pin until it would "bite" and then wiggling the pin out. Took a 1/8 bit and there was no aforementioned "Bite". It just shaved away the top of the pin. Then tried a 7/64 and the bit snapped before it did anything to the pin. Went back to the 1/8 and tried to just drill the pin out the other side. It was a no-go, bit snapped again. Moved up to the next bit size but could get through the 2 broken bits.
Moved onto the SECOND pin...yes, they pinned it twice. This time I tried to drill through the pin right from the start using a fairly large bit (maybe a 3/16). I think I got through the first half of the pin, but AGAIN, snapped the bit once I hit the buffer tube. A handful of f-bombs later, I figured it might be easier to just swap the buffer tube, unless RRA decided to red loctite the castle-nut.
I don't know what the hell was going on, but I've seen people drilling through these things like butter. Now I'm weary about trying to pin the new stock once I get a new tube. Hate to pay a gunsmith for something that should be pretty simple.
/end rant
Displaced Texan
03-21-13, 20:35
Use an EZ out. They are used to remove broken screws.
Use one a little smaller than the pin. It will bite into the roll pin, and compress it slightly so you should be able to remove it.
I've used this method a couple of times.
I believe that RRA does use thread lock compound, might want to heat it up with a heat gun before you try to loosen the castle nut.
TheHolyCannoli
03-21-13, 20:57
Use an EZ out. They are used to remove broken screws.
Use one a little smaller than the pin. It will bite into the roll pin, and compress it slightly so you should be able to remove it.
I've used this method a couple of times.
I believe that RRA does use thread lock compound, might want to heat it up with a heat gun before you try to loosen the castle nut.
Good to know, just wish I had asked before I broke off multiple bits that are now lodged in the holes.
Displaced Texan
03-21-13, 20:59
Live and learn.
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