View Full Version : Slide pin question for Sig Sauer P226
Hey guys, I'm needing some help from those of you who know about Sigs. I've got a Sig P226 that I've put about 7k rounds through so far (with no problems I might add) but recently decided it's time for some maintenance on the gun. I've replaced the barrel with a Sig factory threaded barrel, replaced the plastic guide rod with a stainless steel model, and added a new recoil spring. Now I'm looking at replacing the slide pin on the gun and from what I can tell I have a solid slide pin. My question is this; Do I need to get another solid slide pin or will the split roll pin style fit in my gun? If anyone has any info I'd greatly appreciate it!
S. Galbraith
03-22-13, 21:32
Sig has used three different styles of firing pin position pins(slide pins) over the years for the P226. Originally, they used the two piece roll pin.....followed by the solid pin.....followed by the snail pin. They all have slightly different diameters to them, so substituting one for another will either result in one being too snug, or one being too loose. What ever was in the slide when you got it, you want to replace it with the same type of pin. The slide pin is what's called a sacrificial part.......meaning that you always replace it after you remove it.
I would suggest getting the Sig armorers video before you get too crazy with it, or let an armorer do it.
twistedcomrade
03-22-13, 21:50
Why do you feel this pin needs to be replaced?
Why do you feel this pin needs to be replaced?
The pin Itself looks like it's backing out of the slide a bit. If you look from one side of the slide, the pin ALWAYS sits flush, yet the other side backs out, and if you press it back in, it ends up coming loose again. My understanding is that it's probably broken in the middle because the pin is supposed to by one solid piece? I'm not sure but that seems like what's going on. I noticed it the other day (haven't shot it in a while due to ammo availability) but am not willing to take the chance with it.
Sig has used three different styles of firing pin position pins(slide pins) over the years for the P226.
Do you know of anywhere that sells the solid pin by chance? I was on Sig's site but it looked like the kit they sell only comes with a roll pin style. Checked Brownelles as well, same thing.
The parts kits that run around $25 usually come with the two piece roll pins and a solid pin. Its been about a year since I bought one though.
If your P226 has a stainless steel slide, the pin doesn't need to be changed/serviced until 20k rounds.
From his symptoms, his solid pin may have fractured in the middle. Not uncommon with that pin and one of the reasons I was told they went to the spirol pin.
Rogue,
If its just the solid firing pin positioning pin you need, send me a PM with your mailing info and I will get one out in the mail to you. I have over 30 spares and no use for that many.
S. Galbraith
03-23-13, 08:48
Do you know of anywhere that sells the solid pin by chance? I was on Sig's site but it looked like the kit they sell only comes with a roll pin style. Checked Brownelles as well, same thing.
Top Gun Supply carries them if you need small Sig parts.
Thanks for the responses guys, I appreciate the help!
From his symptoms, his solid pin may have fractured in the middle. Not uncommon with that pin and one of the reasons I was told they went to the spirol pin.
I had researched it a bit and that was how I came to that conclusion as well. Figured simply replacing it was the best route.
Also, DBZ220 I PM'd you.
Do you know of anywhere that sells the solid pin by chance? I was on Sig's site but it looked like the kit they sell only comes with a roll pin style. Checked Brownelles as well, same thing.
~$6.50 at Brownells
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/slide-firing-parts/firing-pin-parts/firing-pin-retaining-pins/firing-pin-positioning-pin-sport-blue-ss-two-tone-prod21763.aspx
~$6.50 at Brownells
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/slide-firing-parts/firing-pin-parts/firing-pin-retaining-pins/firing-pin-positioning-pin-sport-blue-ss-two-tone-prod21763.aspx
Saw that one, but wasn't sure if that was the one I needed or not. Is that the solid one the newer guns are using or the spiral pin? I have no clue how they differ looks wise. My understanding is there may be some fitment issues if I go from a solid pin to the spiral version. Not sure if that's true or not though.
S. Galbraith
03-23-13, 22:43
Saw that one, but wasn't sure if that was the one I needed or not. Is that the solid one the newer guns are using or the spiral pin? I have no clue how they differ looks wise. My understanding is there may be some fitment issues if I go from a solid pin to the spiral version. Not sure if that's true or not though.
You want Sig factory part #34224783
Reagans Rascals
03-23-13, 22:44
I'm almost in the same boat myself.... but my question is... it seems to be a bitch to get out... does it require a shop press?
I'm almost in the same boat myself.... but my question is... it seems to be a bitch to get out... does it require a shop press?
I'm curious as well. I tired with a hammer and punch on a not so stable table and there was no way it was coming out that way. Decided to wait till I got a replacement to try again, but if it's not recommended I may take it to someone. I really like doing things myself to learn but not at the risk of messing something up.
S. Galbraith
03-24-13, 09:08
That's why it is a good idea to get an armorer's video, or have an armorer do the work. The pin is striated on the left side, therefore you want to hammer it out from the right sight(install from the left side). A cup punch is preferred, as it seats on the pin better reducing deformation of the head of the pin(causing seating problems) and less chance of it slipping off and marring your slide. A dead blow hammer is also a good idea as it reduces the chance of a hammer slip which will damage the slide, and less chance of bending the pin as it goes in.
Saw that one, but wasn't sure if that was the one I needed or not. Is that the solid one the newer guns are using or the spiral pin? I have no clue how they differ looks wise. My understanding is there may be some fitment issues if I go from a solid pin to the spiral version. Not sure if that's true or not though.
That is the solid pin. I've used several of them when I need to disassemble a slide for RMR installations and the pin wants to be difficult.
That's why it is a good idea to get an armorer's video, or have an armorer do the work. The pin is striated on the left side, therefore you want to hammer it out from the right sight(install from the left side). A cup punch is preferred, as it seats on the pin better reducing deformation of the head of the pin(causing seating problems) and less chance of it slipping off and marring your slide. A dead blow hammer is also a good idea as it reduces the chance of a hammer slip which will damage the slide, and less chance of bending the pin as it goes in.
With each and every one of these techniques in use, I've had pins that just weren't coming out that I set up in the mill and cut the large end out to relieve stress on the striated portion and into the small end to provide a place to capture a punch.
When removed there were no striations!? They had been completely pressed smooth by the tightness of the fit. I'm sure that SIG has a hydraulic press that is used to install these.
On reinstall, I have had to lightly stone the striations to knock them down a bit so that I could get them back in with mere mortal forces.
The split roll pins and the spiral roll pins are zero problem to remove.
This leads me to believe that the solid pin really doesn't need to be that ungodly tight.
Since the majority of my pistols are SIGs of one vintage or another, I set up an Arbor press to do the solid pins. Makes it super easy and almost eliminates commonly encountered problems.
S. Galbraith
03-24-13, 10:45
With each and every one of these techniques in use, I've had pins that just weren't coming out that I set up in the mill and cut the large end out to relieve stress on the striated portion and into the small end to provide a place to capture a punch.
When removed there were no striations!? They had been completely pressed smooth by the tightness of the fit. I'm sure that SIG has a hydraulic press that is used to install these.
On reinstall, I have had to lightly stone the striations to knock them down a bit so that I could get them back in with mere mortal forces.
The split roll pins and the spiral roll pins are zero problem to remove.
This leads me to believe that the solid pin really doesn't need to be that ungodly tight.
The snail pin is definately an improvement over previous pin designs, and I applaud Sig for going that route. You see snail pins in everything from H&Ks to S&Ws these days.
The specifications for the solid pins allow for minimal effort for installation. If the pins are too tight, it is due to one or two reasons.
If it is a P229 .40/.357 series, all pistols with serial number prefix of AF and later uses a pin of slightly larger dimensions for increased durability. So, a P229 .40/.357 with a AE or lower prefix need the smaller diameter pin. Use part #34224783 in an early P229 and you will have to grind off the striations to fit it in the slide.
The second issue applies to all CNC machined Sigs. Early Nitron finish Sigs did not compensate for the dimensional changes to the firing pin position pin hole in the slide during the finishing process. The hole gets smaller with the application of the finish......as do just about all aftermarket finishes unless you leave a pin in the hole during the application. So, it can be ungodly difficult to get a pin in these holes. This applies to Nitron finish Sigs from the late 1990s to early 2000s. The Air Marshals were one of the chief complainants of the problem, and invested in their own presses for pin installation. After that, Sig started filling the slide holes during the Nitron process. This was around 2004. I'm not sure if Sig continued to follow this procedure after Cohen took over.
Thanks...
That certainly explains why some of them come out with normal forces and some require a bit more 'persuasion'.
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