View Full Version : DIY Silicone Carbide Grip Enhancement
Sooo I've come to that point in life where I absolutely loathe the finger grooves and backstrap angle on my Gen4 G17, shooting the M&P has really spoiled in me in this regard. Plus while my stippling skills have gotten very good I figure if I'm going to do it I may as well go all the way and do it right and while glockworx pretty much does exactly what I'm looking for I'll consider it a learning experience and save myself the 200$. That being said the actual process seems straightforward enough fill the backstrap area, sand, shape, etc and I may do a little work building up and beveling the magwell are too. I've found a few sources for the carbide material or I may use the black beauty sanding abrasive I have for my blast cabinet but I haven't decided and am still looking to see what grit it is comparable to.
But any suggestions as to what epoxy should be used? I'm thinking JB weld, marine tex, would work but Devcon would be best since on is already black. But I'm open to suggestions as what would be best for the external work. I know guys have used the aforementioned products for filling the grip plug area. I figure I'd do a few trial runs on some rail covers first to figure out which grit will work best for my needs.
Intended end result
http://madtrigger.net/images/gats/Yar_LG009.jpg
MOB skateboard tape. Stickier and grippier than Jessup. Self adhesive.
I've had it on my M&P for well over a year with zero problems. Jessup wasn't sticky enough.
Serial_killer
03-27-13, 17:38
He's not just looking for texture, he's wanting to change the geometry and remove the finger groves, the skateboard grip tape isn't going to help with that. I have no experience with the silicone carbide epoxy personally but I know from reading on candlepowerforum a lot of people are starting to use that exact mix for lots of custom purposes. From what i gather other than its strength it also has good thermal properties and it can also be finished to a very smooth, level surface with enough patience. Most seem to just use the standard JB Weld like your thinking. Maybe you could find more info or a preferred mixing ratio there.
One thing I would recommend against is trying to put it on in multiple layers, there will be a joint plain between each layer to possible flake/chip off down the road, if I were going to try it I'd want to plaster it on thicker than I needed the first layer, give it atleast 24 hours dry time then start to shape it down slowly.
Like I mentioned people are using this exact mixture to pour custom shaped heatsinks, I'm not sure if you would be able to stipple it, I don't think it melts.
Oops. I thought it was a 2-part (pun intended) question.
theblackknight
03-27-13, 20:17
MOB skateboard tape. Stickier and grippier than Jessup. Self adhesive.
I've had it on my M&P for well over a year with zero problems. Jessup wasn't sticky enough.
I see you skate, and shoot M&P's. Wanna go do karate in the basement?
I like MOB, but my shoes don't.
MOB skateboard tape. Stickier and grippier than Jessup. Self adhesive.
I've had it on my M&P for well over a year with zero problems. Jessup wasn't sticky enough.
Yea been there done that and while it works well especially if you apply it with the assistance of with a heat gun, I'm just looking for something more permanent.
He's not just looking for texture, he's wanting to change the geometry and remove the finger groves, the skateboard grip tape isn't going to help with that. I have no experience with the silicone carbide epoxy personally but I know from reading on candlepowerforum a lot of people are starting to use that exact mix for lots of custom purposes. From what i gather other than its strength it also has good thermal properties and it can also be finished to a very smooth, level surface with enough patience. Most seem to just use the standard JB Weld like your thinking. Maybe you could find more info or a preferred mixing ratio there.
One thing I would recommend against is trying to put it on in multiple layers, there will be a joint plain between each layer to possible flake/chip off down the road, if I were going to try it I'd want to plaster it on thicker than I needed the first layer, give it atleast 24 hours dry time then start to shape it down slowly.
Like I mentioned people are using this exact mixture to pour custom shaped heatsinks, I'm not sure if you would be able to stipple it, I don't think it melts.
There is an actual silicone carbide epoxy?? Got a link? The carbide is a separate material that adheres to whatever epoxy base one is using unless their is something out there I'm not aware of. I hear ya on doing multiple layers my only concern is which epoxy would be easier to sand.
As she currently sits.
http://imageshack.us/scaled/large/94/20130327124225168.jpg
Silicon carbide is a very sharp abrasive. I would suggest 80 grit aluminum oxide as an anti-slip additive. It is much less hostile/damaging to skin etc.
Black Beauty (coal slag) is not a good idea IMO it is brittle and sharp like broken glass.
IMO you need a high viscosity but "brushable" epoxy as the bonding agent. I think you need the type of epoxy that is used for marine fiber glass laminating. West System Epoxy is one of the best but it may be hard to find in small quantities.
There are "Thixotropic" additives (powders) for epoxy that make it gel-like so it won't run. If there is a real boat yard near you that does fiberglass repair you might get what you need. Places like Defender Marine sell repair kits that might work for your project.
Hope this info helps.
The forgoing is advice for the final finish. For molding/contouring the grip JB Weld will work but without a thickening filler like "micro beads" you will probably need to "tool" it as it sets up to prevent sagging. It is important to degrease (degrease first) and aggressively scuff all surfaces that the epoxy will be applied to. As long as you prep the surface it is OK to do the work in layers. Marine type epoxies give off a lot of heat when they cure so it is generally safer to use several layers less than 1/8" thick to avoid melting the polymer frame. I have not used JB Weld in a thick layer so I don't know how hot it gets.
One last thought: be sure you are using real two part epoxy resins and not polyester resins. The difference is the epoxies will be two part mixes with more or less equal "A and B" parts. The polyester resins will be a base resin and a catalyst or accelerator added in small amounts. Polyester resins are generally not nearly as good adhesives (as strong a bond) as epoxies.
Silicon carbide is a very sharp abrasive. I would suggest 80 grit aluminum oxide as an anti-slip additive. It is much less hostile/damaging to skin etc.
10-4 I'll look into it and see what I can find. The abrasiveness I'm not terribly concerned about and in looking at some of the pics 80-100 grit silicone looks pretty user friendly considering but I suppose its hard to say without actually handling it.
Black Beauty (coal slag) is not a good idea IMO it is brittle and sharp like broken glass.
Good to know.
IMO you need a high viscosity but "brushable" epoxy as the bonding agent. I think you need the type of epoxy that is used for marine fiber glass laminating. West System Epoxy is one of the best but it may be hard to find in small quantities.
This correct? I take it the Aluminum kit would be the best to use?
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/repair-kits/
The forgoing is advice for the final finish. For molding/contouring the grip JB Weld will work but without a thickening filler like "micro beads" you will probably need to "tool" it as it sets up to prevent sagging. It is important to degrease (degrease first) and aggressively scuff all surfaces that the epoxy will be applied to. As long as you prep the surface it is OK to do the work in layers. Marine type epoxies give off a lot of heat when they cure so it is generally safer to use several layers less than 1/8" thick to avoid melting the polymer frame. I have not used JB Weld in a thick layer so I don't know how hot it gets.
You lost me on "tooling" lol. Can you expound? Also where does one procure said micro beads?
Lastly, as far as JB weld goes would Devcon Plastic Steel putty or liquid be comparable? I would think the putty (maybe not the liquid) would be ideal for the final shaping and carbide attachment no?
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-bedding-adhesives/epoxy-metals-prod5808.aspx
I did come across this for some inspiration though.
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=164470
The West System website is the correct place. It has been a while since I used their product. I didn't know they had kits. When I used it it was sold by the pint. One of the repair kits should do everything you want. Devcon and other filled epoxies may work also. It is important to use an epoxy that remains flexible after curing.
The "thickener" in the West kit may be micro beads. There are several other types of thickening agents. The advantage of the micro beads is the cured epoxy sands easily. Using a filler the West epoxy can be made into a putty consistency.
I suggest you call West and ask them to advise which of their epoxies is suitable for bonding a Dupont type industrial nylon molding (I think it is called nylon 6).
Tooling is the process of working the epoxy as it cures with a smooth non-stick tool. West or an auto body supply store should have something you can use. As the epoxy cures it heats up and may have a tendency to sag before it hardens. You use the tool to smooth out any sags.
I think you will have a hard time getting a thin, smooth bonding coat with anything as thick as JB Weld.
I have used 80 grit alox as a heavy duty, non-slip surface on boat decks. I used the West epoxy thickened to a brushable gel. It worked out very well.
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