View Full Version : Barrell install with locktite?
I saw a barrel install video on utube. The man used blue locktite to take up the free space between upper case and the barrel before installing the nut. He brushed it around the end of the barrel. Is this normal practice? I understand what he is trying to accomplish, weather it helps or not is questionable. Any armors recommend this?
I saw a barrel install video on utube. The man used blue locktite to take up the free space between upper case and the barrel before installing the nut. He brushed it around the end of the barrel. Is this normal practice? I understand what he is trying to accomplish, weather it helps or not is questionable. Any armors recommend this?
Even if the blue locktite secured the fit between the barrel and upper, it wouldn't do anything once the weapon is running and heating up. The AR is not a bolt action that needs to be bedded. But if you do something like that, might as well use rocksett or something extremely heat resistant.
It's not needed at all. In fact the specs call for moly grease between the barrel nut, barrel and upper receiver. I have used plain lithium grease in the past. It is recommended to stay away from greases that include graphite because of a risk of corrosion.
I've heard of this. I just put a touch of moly there, and of course do the threads.
I've had some stubborn upper/barrel extension mate ups. I think Grouchy Robb Jenson has used a similar technique on precision builds. :confused: I could be wrong though..
For a precision build some guys will use Loctite, but blue isn't what I would pick. There are Loctite version, 609 IIRC, that is specifically made and sold to be a sleeve retainer. Its what I would use.
If you are spending extra money with the intention of shooting as small of a group as you can, I think it may be worth it. However, if your upper and barrel extension are on opposite sides of the tolerance range, you should deal with that first.
However, if your upper and barrel extension are on opposite sides of the tolerance range, you should deal with that first.
Yeah... I've had some really loose fits... and on the other end of the spectrum, I had to beat a 300 BLK barrel into the upper far enough to the the nut to grab.. :confused: And tighten it the rest of the way.
I hope that guy never wants to rebarrel that upper. :eek:
patrick sweeney
03-29-13, 14:34
For the guys who are really torqued off at dropping "X's" at Camp Perry, taking out the slop might be worth it.
Then again, for the cost of a build that will do credit to an NRA High Power High Master, you can afford to mix-and-match uppers and barrel extensions until you get a press-fit.
For the rest of us, it is extra work for no perceivable benefit.Unless you like extra work when it comes time to re-barrel.
This has been discussed before: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=119904
3 pages worth. Based on that thread I bought 243, as recommended by Alexander Arms, although it sounds like 609 would work as well.
Mark
I don't get where the extra work comes in. There is this perception that anything with loctite is somehow embedded in stone and requires hundreds of hours of labor to remove.
Take a heat gun and warm the part. When the oil has evaporated off and the part looks really dry, the loctite has broken down and the parts will slide apart. This maybe takes 5 minutes.
Back in the day it was one of those "accurizing" tricks for High Power, but not necessary with today's quality components. I'll go further to say that if you are trying to build a sub-minute gun, the parts needed ought to fit right for how much you paid for them.
Yeah... I've had some really loose fits... and on the other end of the spectrum, I had to beat a 300 BLK barrel into the upper far enough to the the nut to grab.. :confused: And tighten it the rest of the way.
I hope that guy never wants to rebarrel that upper. :eek:
That Noveske 8.2" ain't ever coming off Mark! :no:
That Noveske 8.2" ain't ever coming off Mark! :no:
It'd be easier to make a new upper by hand than separate those parts. :p
We didn't need any loctite to get the "accuracy" fit on that build. :eek:
I don't get where the extra work comes in. There is this perception that anything with loctite is somehow embedded in stone and requires hundreds of hours of labor to remove.
Take a heat gun and warm the part. When the oil has evaporated off and the part looks really dry, the loctite has broken down and the parts will slide apart. This maybe takes 5 minutes.
It depends on the type of loctite. Some are designed to withstand extreme temperatures and require the use of a torch at a minimum
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*Update* I was worried for nothing. The fit ended up being so tight I had to use an impact gun on the barrel muzzle to too drive it in.:happy:
Just kiddin! She was nice and snug. I had to wake the receiver gentle to get her in. It was a perfect fit, any tighter and I would have needed to heat the upper and chill the barrel. It was like they were machined at the same place for a perfect fit. It's a WOA barrel and JD Machine upper/lower. Thanks for the help!
It depends on the type of loctite. Some are designed to withstand extreme temperatures and require the use of a torch at a minimum
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
In the case of Rocksett, boiling water does the trick.
HelloLarry
03-30-13, 10:45
I like anti-seize.
Even with that, you usually have to tap the barrel out.
In the case of Rocksett, boiling water does the trick.
Did not know that. Thanks for the info.
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*Update* I was worried for nothing. The fit ended up being so tight I had to use an impact gun on the barrel muzzle to too drive it in.:happy:
Just kiddin! She was nice and snug. I had to wake the receiver gentle to get her in. It was a perfect fit, any tighter and I would have needed to heat the upper and chill the barrel. It was like they were machined at the same place for a perfect fit. It's a WOA barrel and JD Machine upper/lower. Thanks for the help!
That impact gun on the muzzle part had me worried for a second until I saw you were kidding!
That impact gun on the muzzle part had me worried for a second until I saw you were kidding!
Ya, he got me too with that one
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
I use blue loctite as a matter of course these days after I once had an issue with a sloppy fitting barrel which would change poi as it heated up (the receiver face was not quite true, either). Reason I started using the blue is because it was advocated by a top 3 gunner. Contrary to popular belief, heat doesn't really melt it, just breaks it down, but for the purpose of 'bedding' it is fine. In addition, most heating actually occurs further down the barrel, so it doesn't get nearly as hot as many think.
I have also removed said barrels - all it takes is securing the barrel and then tapping off the receiver with a rubber mallet. No need to use high temp red etc unless you want to make extra work for yourself come barrel removal time.
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