View Full Version : How hard is it to properly pin a compensator?
My new 14.5" BCM upper is on it's way (thanks Grant!!) along with a BCM COMP Mod-1 to make me legal.
I've never needed to look for an actual gunsmith in my area yet, and my first batch of google searches didn't give me much hope. (I'll try my LGS's for recommendations later this week)
I have absolutely NO welding experience, so I'm not going to try to do this myself, but it got me to thinking... would most local metal-fab / welding shops be qualified to spot weld the pin? It sure sounds like it shouldn't be too bad... but I have a very LOW tolerance for a screw-up.
Can I get a little help for this newbie?
polymorpheous
04-25-13, 03:16
It would just be a quick zap from a wire feed welder, (MIG).
I've done it at work.
A little blending with a Dyna-file and hit it with some Cold Blue.
Easy.
ETA: This is assuming you already have the barrel dimpled for the pin.
I like BCM's A2X myself. It's an extended A2 which at a quick glance looks exactly like a regular FH. Comes pre-drilled with a pin too! All you have to do is dimple the barrel and zap it with a welder as stated above.
underwoodbitsandspurs
04-25-13, 05:29
I used my local machine shop before, only charged me $20 to drill and spot weld. Tell them to use a tig welder and it will be a very clean spot weld.
ICANHITHIMMAN
04-25-13, 06:11
Where do you live at? Its very easy to do.
KEY WORDS.. "but I have a very LOW tolerance for a screw-up" Take or send it to someone who does this everyday! GH
I'm gonna TIG mine this weekend. If I had to take it somewhere to get welded, it'd be a fab shop before a gunsmith.
Sent from my Motorola DynaTAC 8000X using Tapatalk 2
I'd also tig. I happen to know how to do mig and tig and it's much easier to get a nice spot with a tig. A machine shop is where I'd head. Should be an easy job for them.
Crazy Chuckster
04-25-13, 10:54
I would also vote for a quick shot with a Tig welder. Any fab or machine shop in your area should be able to do it cheap and quick.
Serial_killer
04-25-13, 11:37
Any GOOD welder would be able to do the job as well with a MIG as with a TIG and in a few seconds compared to much longer setup/weld time with the TIG. If your going to a reputable shop there's no reason to walk away because they plan to (or are only able to) MIG it. I fill holes all the time with MIG, I even used my MIG to fill in extra bolt holes (non- threw) on the barrel/receiver of several guns I've built, gasless MIG no but MIG with C25/ other acceptable gas yes...
FWIW one of my buddies dropped his shotgun and banged the crap out of the barrel, it left an nice gouge that I filled in with my MIG, we refinished over it and it was perfectly smooth. Moral of the story MIG is a perfectly acceptable welding method for the job at hand.
underwoodbitsandspurs
04-25-13, 11:57
I don't think anybody said using a MIG was bad, but a TIG welder makes a cleaner spot weld. With a TIG you can spot weld with just heat, no rod and no material added. The pin fills the hole on the compensator, no need to add material. I own a Miller TIG welder, it only takes a few seconds to setup. I select the amps and push a foot pedal. If a machine shop has a MIG only, have them use it. If they have a TIG, request that instead. Either way it will look great.
Any GOOD welder would be able to do the job as well with a MIG as with a TIG and in a few seconds compared to much longer setup/weld time with the TIG. If your going to a reputable shop there's no reason to walk away because they plan to (or are only able to) MIG it. I fill holes all the time with MIG, I even used my MIG to fill in extra bolt holes (non- threw) on the barrel/receiver of several guns I've built, gasless MIG no but MIG with C25/ other acceptable gas yes...
FWIW one of my buddies dropped his shotgun and banged the crap out of the barrel, it left an nice gouge that I filled in with my MIG, we refinished over it and it was perfectly smooth. Moral of the story MIG is a perfectly acceptable welding method for the job at hand.
Where do you live at? Its very easy to do.
Big Island of Hawaii, So if I can't find someone local, it's gonna have to get shipped away again.
That's why I started thinking about a welder, instead of a gunsmith... I figure there has to be a few more of them around here.
Big Island of Hawaii, So if I can't find someone local, it's gonna have to get shipped away again.
That's why I started thinking about a welder, instead of a gunsmith... I figure there has to be a few more of them around here.
If you fly me out there, I'll do it for free. :D
Sent from my Motorola DynaTAC 8000X using Tapatalk 2
steyrman13
04-26-13, 08:23
What material do most people use for the pin? How deep is the dimple in the barrel usually? Just a regular metal drill bit? I had a friend get his pinned and the dimple wasn't deep enough? Or maybe the shape of the dimple being a dish shape from a drill bit? And it allowed the flash hider to be rotated with a large wrench. He has to have it re-done.
What material do most people use for the pin? How deep is the dimple in the barrel usually? Just a regular metal drill bit? I had a friend get his pinned and the dimple wasn't deep enough? Or maybe the shape of the dimple being a dish shape from a drill bit? And it allowed the flash hider to be rotated with a large wrench. He has to have it re-done.
Why would RayJay be trying to torque it with a wrench to even find this out?
Not sure where "dimple" came into the dialogue here, but it's anything BUT a dimple. It's a hole about half way to the bore.... or if your an ARFcom idiot... you drill all the way into the bore. (no joke... I saw that posted)
steyrman13
04-26-13, 09:31
Why would RayJay be trying to torque it with a wrench to even find this out?
Not sure where "dimple" came into the dialogue here, but it's anything BUT a dimple. It's a hole about half way to the bore.... or if your an ARFcom idiot... you drill all the way into the bore. (no joke... I saw that posted)
I guess he wanted to double check his legality if an agent decided to make sure it was welded in place? Haha. I say dimple because of the confusion you state above that some think a hole which can be misconstrued to be to the bore. I guess his welder didn't drill the dimple/hole deep enough to get a good stop for the pin to fall into....
Dragging that pin across the remaining threads is giving me the heebee Geebees.
steyrman13
04-26-13, 09:48
Dragging that pin across the remaining threads is giving me the heebee Geebees.
Luckily he stopped turning as soon as it moved so he didn't mess up but a very short spot in the threads (bot really messed up enough to matter) and it is near the very rear so he is still ok.
I don't think anybody said using a MIG was bad, but a TIG welder makes a cleaner spot weld. With a TIG you can spot weld with just heat, no rod and no material added. The pin fills the hole on the compensator, no need to add material. I own a Miller TIG welder, it only takes a few seconds to setup. I select the amps and push a foot pedal. If a machine shop has a MIG only, have them use it. If they have a TIG, request that instead. Either way it will look great.
I TIG welded a BCM Mod 1 on a DD M4 14.5" bbl a couple weeks ago. Came out great. Like underwood said, no need for filler rod. It's so easy to control the heat using TIG, even a caveman like me can do it.
So.... After waiting what seems like forever... It arrived, and I found a machine shop to pin it for me. They did a decent job. But left me with another newbie question.
The weld spot is nice and shiny, the rest isn't... Do I need to treat the weld point with anything to make it last forever? or would that be purely cosmetic? What's the best sauce for this?
polymorpheous
06-09-13, 07:56
Birchwood Casey Cold Blue.
I tried to parkerize over my weld and it didn't take (neither did the crush washer). Only option I can think of is some kind of spray paint but I'm sure someone else can speak to this. Good luck!
A little spray paint after masking unintended spray area works fine. The silver solder on the weld + the Battlecomp being made of stainless steel rendered blueing useless. No biggy, just spray paint it.
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac279/jaxman7/IMG_5902_zpsc19b2df5.jpg
-Jax
polymorpheous
06-09-13, 21:14
Did the OP have it silver soldered on or welded?
:confused:
Did the OP have it silver soldered on or welded?
:confused:
Welded, not soldered.
But I'm not sure if it was Mig or Tig.
polymorpheous
06-10-13, 03:04
Welded, not soldered.
But I'm not sure if it was Mig or Tig.
The weld process won't matter.
Filler metal will however.
My best guess is that ER-70S was used.
In other words... Cold Blue will take very well to it.
AlphaKoncepts
06-10-13, 11:08
I've done this several times. I align the muzzle attachment and then set it on my milling machine. I drill a hole through the muzzle device and through the threads of the barrel, just enough to eat away the threads. I drop in a hardened pin and apply a bead of weld (tig because I have it but mig works just as well) to the pin to close the hole.
File, and finish, you're done.
The silver solder method is another ATF approved method of permanently attaching a muzzle device.
The silver solder method is another ATF approved method of permanently attaching a muzzle device.
And why isn't it more popular? Seems less hassle for those without a welder with a bit less finish issues.
The silver solder must be 1100 degree SS to keep it all legal eagle.
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac279/jaxman7/Screenshot_2013-06-10-21-14-36_zpscdf56b21.png
-Jax
polymorpheous
06-10-13, 22:51
The silver solder must be 1100 degree SS to keep it all legal eagle.
-Jax
Anything over 600*F and the structure of steel is permanently changed.
Welding is much better.
It literally takes a half a second to plug weld over the pin.
AlphaKoncepts
06-11-13, 09:04
And why isn't it more popular? Seems less hassle for those without a welder with a bit less finish issues.
What they said. :)
It is quick and simple to apply but can damage the metal. Silver solder is common on shot gun barrels to hold ribs and splines etc... I know from experience the steel will have a very noticeable tarnish to it after getting the metal up to that temperature.
Drilling, pinning, welding and finishing can be all done in less than an hour of time. Actually closer to 45 minutes for all setup and cleanup involved.
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