Muzzle device swap: what specific tools do you use?

[DreadPirateMoyer]

Hi everyone,

No gunsmiths in my area have barrell vice blocks for properly swapping muzzle devices, so in the past, I've had to send my upper out for the swaps. It wasn't a big deal, as I was usually sending the entire rifle off for some sort of other service as well (cerakote etc.), but today, I've run into a problem: the only thing I need to do is swap a muzzle device.

I think this is something I'm technically proficient enough to do myself, but I don't have the tools, which seem to cost just about as much as paying a gunsmith and shipping anyway.

Would you guys be able to recommend the specific brands of tools you use to do these swaps? I've already got a vice, so I think I just need the barrel vice blocks and some type of torque wrench (or whatever the proper tool would be); I'm just unsure of which brands are the ones to buy.

[hk_shootr]

I generally use a set of rock maple blocks i made that have been covered with leather. This and some rosin works well for me.
As far as tools, a wrench works well. Most devices either use a crush washer or shim stacks for alignment of the device.

[DreadPirateMoyer]

The device I'll be using is a Surefire SOCOM flash hider. No crush washers or shims; just a proper torque value.

[markm]

Geissele reaction rod and whatever wrench fits the device best.

Common sense torque is perfectly acceptable on any muzzle device/mount I've ever installed.

The Reaction rod is priceless since it's universal and eliminates any yanking on the upper receiver.

[DreadPirateMoyer]

I completely forgot about the reaction rod. My biggest worry with the reaction rod is torque'ing the entire length of the barrel to install/remove the flash hider. I've read that this can crack the chrome lining/nitride layer of the steel (and hence, a barrel vise block restrains the torque to the end of the barrel), but that wasn't necessarily from a reliable source.

Is that a real concern? Or gun shop voodoo?

The upper has no rail on it, for the record, so getting the barrel in a vice will be easy if necessary.

[C4IGrant]

Geissele reaction rod and whatever wrench fits the device best.

Common sense torque is perfectly acceptable on any muzzle device/mount I've ever installed.

The Reaction rod is priceless since it's universal and eliminates any yanking on the upper receiver.

This.


C4

[markm]

That's funny. Complete quackery.

There's simply not that much torque applied to ANY muzzle device. There are so many "thinkers" in the AR realm. :p

[C4IGrant]

I completely forgot about the reaction rod. My biggest worry with the reaction rod is torque'ing the entire length of the barrel to install/remove the flash hider. I've read that this can crack the chrome lining/nitride layer of the steel (and hence, a barrel vise block restrains the torque to the end of the barrel), but that wasn't necessarily from a reliable source.

Is that a real concern? Or gun shop voodoo?

The upper has no rail on it, for the record, so getting the barrel in a vice will be easy if necessary.

If you crack the internal lining of a barrel, you are doing something wrong!

If the torque value looks like it is going to exceed 40ft LBS, ALWAYS use shims to properly time it (even if using a crush washer)!



C4

[wahoo95]

19mm Crescent Wrench works for most devices..if sized the same as the standard A2

[DreadPirateMoyer]

Easy enough. :) Geissele Reaction Rod it is, along with some elbow grease, common sense, and a wrench.

Thanks guys.

[michael word]

I just use a piece of leather and clamp the FSB in a vise to hold the barrel. This was recommended by randall at ar15barrels.com. No need for expensive tools that are looking to solve a non existent problem.

[markm]

I just use a piece of leather and clamp the FSB in a vise to hold the barrel. This was recommended by randall at ar15barrels.com. No need for expensive tools that are looking to solve a non existent problem.

The problem with that is the FSB is getting more and more rare on guns... especially with all the homo hand guard systems.

I've used that technique many times too... but the Reaction Rod is infinintely simpler.

[hjmpanzr]

Geissele reaction rod and hammerhead tool. Used these yesterday for the first time to take a surefire flash hider off (it had been mounted with rock sett). Very quick process. No problem.
The surefire should have instructions showing the spacers and where you want the FH ted to get proper torque.

[Colt guy]

I have been using Barrel Vise Jaws made out of Aluminum. I think I paid $10 or $15 dollars. You might have to take off the hand guard and gas tube if you do not have room to clamp in front of the front sight base.

Is this Geissele reaction rod a fairly new item? I have not seen it until recently.

In stock at Midway USA http://www.midwayusa.com/product/444133/geissele-reaction-rod-ar-15-action-wrench-steel

[darr3239]

Reaction rod is out of stock. :(

[ForTehNguyen]

dont need a torque wrench, the proper torque is around 1/4 turn after finger tight. All I have is a bench vise, an upper receiver block to mount the upper to the vice, and a 3/4" crescent wrench.

[AKDoug]

In stock at Midway.

I cut a hole in a piece of 1/2" steel plate that matches the end of the reaction rod. I welded it to a scrap of tube that fits in the receiver hitch of my truck. I can now work on pretty much any type of upper problem on an AR now while in the field. I cut a hole in another plate to mount on my bench so I don't even have to mount the reaction rod in my vise.

[sapper36]

Geissele reaction rod and hammerhead tool.

That's the truth. Those are just a couple of the tools I picked up after the Semper Paratus Armorer's course

[markm]

I cut a hole in a piece of 1/2" steel plate that matches the end of the reaction rod. I welded it to a scrap of tube that fits in the receiver hitch of my truck. I can now work on pretty much any type of upper problem on an AR now while in the field. I cut a hole in another plate to mount on my bench so I don't even have to mount the reaction rod in my vise.

:p That's awesome.

[diving dave]

Haven't seen the reaction rod before.. Would it also work to hold a scar upper? I assume it would, I have been meaning to replace that brake

[markm]

Haven't seen the reaction rod before.. Would it also work to hold a scar upper? I assume it would, I have been meaning to replace that brake

Does the SCAR use the same bolt lugs as the AR? If so, I think it would.

It won't work on the Knights proprietary bolt lug/barrel extension from what I've read here.

[mkmckinley]

The bolt lugs aren't the same.

[markm]

The bolt lugs aren't the same.

Well.. there you go. You buy a Yuppie gun, you pay the yuppie repair and maintenance on it.

[AKDoug]

We had the G.R.R. not fit in a no-name barrel during our armorers class with I.G. It happens every once in a while, but it fit all the Noveskes, Colts, DD's, ARP's and BCM's I've tried it one. The tolerances are purposely tight.

[DreadPirateMoyer]

Received my GRR last night and began working on the gun. Took the old FH off and now I'm trying to find a wrench thin enough to fit the Surefire FH.

In the meantime, is there any risk of bending the barrel when torquing on the FH? It seems like there's an awful lot of leverage being applied to the barrel, and it scares my newb ass.

[markm]

If you tighten it only enought that it's good and snug with a little rockset, then hell no there's no chance of tweaking the barrel.

[DreadPirateMoyer]

Perfect. Didn't want to do something wrong and bend my barrel to the left.

Thanks for your guidance so far. :)