View Full Version : Undercut trigger guard
I, like many others, get "Glock-knuckle" pretty much every time I put more than a couple boxes downrange in a single training session. That part of my finger will not form a callus- I guess rubbing it raw and ripping off a chunk of skin repeatedly may prevent it from toughening up. I don't mind wearing gloves in mild to cold weather and I've tried medical tape with mixed results. I think the answer is to undercut the trigger guard.
I've looked through hundreds of photos of various Glocks with grip reductions and stippling; some of those also had undercut trigger guards. The professionally done double undercut trigger guard looks nifty and might appeal to some but the standard undercut is what I'm interested in. I've practiced with my Dremel and a sanding drum at high and low speed(most recently leftover MIAD grip pieces) and they seem to turn out the way I want but when I sit down to do an actual Glock frame....I puss out. Done it 3 times now. Does anyone that's actually taken a Dremel to their trigger guard in an attempt to defeat Glock-knuckle have any tricks, tips, or words of wisdom? I know to take a little at a time, just need to work up the balls to make that first mark. Tips on finishing the surface to blend in with the untouched areas would be helpful. Fine grit sandpaper and the polishing wheel with compound do an OK job on my practice pieces but maybe I'm missing a better way to do it.
GitmoSmoke
05-22-13, 21:44
I haven't done a Glock, but I did the same mod to my M&P. I started several times before I actually got it done, and it came out great. I used a fine grit dremel sanding wheel and went slowly. For the final clean up I used 400 grit wet and dry sand paper on a dowel rod the same size as my finger.
If you can get it done on the MIAD pieces you will get your Glock done with no problems.
NeoNeanderthal
05-22-13, 22:04
I've undercut my glocks. But if im taking a class or going to be shooting a lot i just get two REALLY good (fabric not plastic) bandaids and put them on that spot on my finger. Acts like moleskin on your heel when your hiking. Know what i'm saying?
I've undercut and opened up the trigger guards on all the Glocks I've owned (7). I use a dremel with the large sanding drum and take my time. I mark out the area to be worked on with masking tape. Tape off all around the rest of the frame near the work area to avoid "mis- hits." After you remove the bulk of the material, finish up by hand with some 400-600 grit sandpaper. A wire brush in the dremel helps smooth out the plastic when you're done.
outrider627
05-23-13, 09:55
I would avoid the dremel for this job. Too much potential for overdoing it. I'm planning to do a trigger guard undercut when I get the chance, but I'll be using dowel method.
Im going to buy a few wooden dowels and wrap them in different grits of sandpaper. When I cut down and reprofiled an extended Glock mag release for my dad, I used Flitz on a dremel polishing wheel to polish it.
WhiskyNiner
05-23-13, 10:30
I beveled both sides of the bottom of the trigger guard. I also worked on the angle of the beavertail to keep it off the thumb bone. I did both areas with a variety of rasps and files, followed by different sandpapers. While it won't win any gunsmithing competitions, it's functional and isn't all that ugly. Guys that can't stand any imperfections on their firearms need not apply.
The most useful tools for the beavertail was sandpaper around a paint stick. For under the trigger guard the best was a small round rough file and a chainsaw file, followed by sandpaper wrapped around dowels.
Best tip: Go ahead and take the slide off and the trigger bits out and it will be easier and cleaner. :moil:
saddlerocker
05-23-13, 10:38
I didnt use a dremel, I just wrapped sandpaper around a fat contractors pencil.
Worked really well and goes slower than a dremel would.
Glock knuckle is less pronounced for me on the gen4 than previous, due to the subtle grip angle change. I now just remove the mold marks, and round the right side of the underside of the trigger guard.
I appreciate the benefit from a relieved Glock trigger guard.
However, I only lightly relieve the right side, not both as many
do. I only remove as much material that I have to. This allows
for a stock looking frame and more material left. I do the
relief work with a fine half-round file, followed up with paper.
I have done this to several of my pistols. I used the same technique on my Glocks as I did on this M&P. This was actually the first pistol I ever stippled. Just take your time..... Check out POST #18...
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=81285
I've done several Glock and M&P pistols using a combination of the methods described in previous posts. I prefer to do the first rough cuts using a wooden dowel wrapped with 60 grit and then shaping with the Dremel. I use a Dremel fine grit abrasive buffing wheel for the final polish.
Glock 17
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss164/orlanger/IMG_0079_zpsdec0d797.jpg (http://s572.photobucket.com/user/orlanger/media/IMG_0079_zpsdec0d797.jpg.html)
M&P Shield
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss164/orlanger/3faf956b-aa2f-4801-b721-a64688614188_zpseafb0dc3.jpg (http://s572.photobucket.com/user/orlanger/media/3faf956b-aa2f-4801-b721-a64688614188_zpseafb0dc3.jpg.html)
Same method with the dowel and finish it off with the polishing wheel on a dremel but I do something in b/t.
Remove the mag release, turn the gun upside down and place in a padded vice. Next cut long thin strips of sandpaper. Usually start with 220 I think and then work my way up. Place the thin strips of sandpaper on area and work back and forth. Like the old images of loggers going back and forth on a two sided saw. Push slightly down while doing this. It makes a nice uniformed radius on both ends. You can vary how 'round' you want it by how much you push down while sanding.
Not the best angle but its the only pic I can find right now:
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac279/jaxman7/2012-07-29_17-48-17_283-1.jpg
ETA: found a couple more:
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac279/jaxman7/offset/2012-07-29_17-47-43_181.jpg
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac279/jaxman7/offset/2012-07-29_11-01-10_496.jpg
-Jax
Does anyone that's actually taken a Dremel to their trigger guard in an attempt to defeat Glock-knuckle have any tricks, tips, or words of wisdom? I know to take a little at a time, just need to work up the balls to make that first mark. Tips on finishing the surface to blend in with the untouched areas would be helpful.
1. Go slow (Duh)
2. Take a little material at a time
3. Repeat 1 and 2 until you get what you are looking for
As far as blending the grinding I have used all kinds of things. Fine grain sand paper, sanding blocks made of foam coated with grit, dremel attachments, etc. I favor these little dremel grit poof wheel thingys now. I don't know what their official name is. and I finish with very 220 sand paper, or something comparable.
I usually dont give too much concern to aesthetics as the glock to me is a tool and function is my biggest concern I have never had an issue with the undercut or finger groove removal, only stippling has given me any issues. The picture below is what I consider a botched stipple job but the undercut profile is GTG for me.
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab50/jp0319/IMG_0086.jpg
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab50/jp0319/IMG_0083.jpg
The undercut trigger guard is the first mod I do to any and every glock I own, Ive done about a half dozen of them. Once you "break your cherry" it becomes much easier. Go ahead and knock it out, take it slow and you'll be fine.
JP
This has been absolutely and without question the best frame modification I've ever done. I have shot Glocks so much over the years that I wound up with a pretty extreme case of the Glock knuckle.
Not only would it actually bleed on some occasions it also led to what I can best describe as arthritis like pain in that finger, directly in the knuckle.
Plus it was embarrassing to flip people off.
Since doing the mod a couple of years ago the callus has started to flatten out but is still pronounced. Pain has pretty much all been resolved. What's interesting now is that when I shoot friends or co workers Glocks it literally feels "wrong" in my hands. And after just a few rounds it starts to grate at the old callused portion of my finger.
Put the thought into it like you obviously have and take the time to do it right and you'll do it to every Glock you own and never look back.
Brasilnuts
05-23-13, 18:42
I remember the day I was standing at my workbench, Glock in one hand and Dremel in the other.
Lots of good advice posted above to get the job done.
I used a Dremel on mine and the best advice I have is to go slow.
Keep the RPM slow on the Dremel no matter what attachment you are using. If the RPM is to high it will just melt and smear the polymer.
Take the plunge, it'll be alright.
Gen 4 19
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/brasilnuts/D550600B-0288-4658-A14C-D70F40C2A8BD-3216-0000059EFF267AB9_zps4048f5db.jpg (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/brasilnuts/media/D550600B-0288-4658-A14C-D70F40C2A8BD-3216-0000059EFF267AB9_zps4048f5db.jpg.html)
Gen 2 17
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/brasilnuts/945F7400-7EC9-4BA7-84DB-B26A944761C3-475-000000EA39848DD8_zps9926a28d.jpg (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/brasilnuts/media/945F7400-7EC9-4BA7-84DB-B26A944761C3-475-000000EA39848DD8_zps9926a28d.jpg.html)
brushy bill
05-23-13, 19:57
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac279/jaxman7/offset/2012-07-29_11-01-10_496.jpg
-Jax
What happened there?
What happened there?
Unfinished stipple and reshaping but gives an idea of the shape of the undercut trigger guard.
-Jax
I used to get the "Glock Knuckle" big time on my G23's. So much so that it was one of the primary reasons I sold my Glock 40s. I think it was most pronounced on the compact models.
The frame modifications shown above look great, but doesn't this weaken the frame? Even if done correctly, I would think this could cause the trigger guard to eventually crack from frame flex.
Anyone have a lot of rounds down range after removing polymer from the trigger guard?
I used to get the "Glock Knuckle" big time on my G23's. So much so that it was one of the primary reasons I sold my Glock 40s. I think it was most pronounced on the compact models.
The frame modifications shown above look great, but doesn't this weaken the frame? Even if done correctly, I would think this could cause the trigger guard to eventually crack from frame flex.
Anyone have a lot of rounds down range after removing polymer from the trigger guard?
Approaching 10k rounds on my M&P9 and it is quite thin. On the support hand memory groove I can actually push it in just slightly w/my finger. No issues.
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac279/jaxman7/IMG_20130407_171307_542_zpsf48d79a3.jpg
-Jax
Anyone have a lot of rounds down range after removing polymer from the trigger guard?
I have thousands upon thousands...Upon thousands of rounds through my G17,19,26 and 21SF. Nothing has come undone or split. There has been no detrimental effects whatsoever.
And I agree with you that the 19/23 sized guns seem to hurt worse than the full size. Of course the finger grooves are worse for me on those guns as well. That's why I started eliminating them from all my frames.
Anyone have a lot of rounds down range after removing polymer from the trigger guard?
I ground the bump off a duty use gen3 G23 in ~2009, and it has had several thousand since. That's not a lot of rounds, but it's enough bouncing around and incidental impacts in four years to give some confidence.
The G23s benefited the most from some work on the trigger guard.
Undercut my trigger guard today, pretty easy, and feels 1000x better.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h213/gripgc8/null_zpsb903155f.jpg
I used a 11mm socket wrapped in 80,180,220,320,600wet, and 1500wet
For the wet paper I used water mixed with dish soap.
The polymer was grayish, but after rubbing it with some motor oil, it is as black as the rest of the frame.
I also did the same process for a support hand notch in the middle of the trigger guard, not sure if I should stipple that area or not yet.
I've practiced with my Dremel and a sanding drum at high and low speed(most recently leftover MIAD grip pieces) and they seem to turn out the way I want but when I sit down to do an actual Glock frame....I puss out.
Tons of good advice in this thread. If you're freaked out about taking a power tool to your pistol, use a rasp. Something like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100208023?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100208023&R=100208023#.UbDYNvZAQww should be just fine.
I did my first one at the range. Shoot, field strip, rasp, reassemble, repeat. I think it took about an hour to get it where I wanted it. One of these days I'll go back and smooth it up with sandpaper. Or not.
Unless you have criminal intentions, it's really hard to damage a Glock frame with a rasp. It's a little easier with a Dremel, but only a little.
Okie John
On my first one I did all the heavy removal with a rasp then smoothed it up with fine sandpaper. On the next three pistols I just took about 80% of the polymer off with a bench grinder, did the final shaping with a Dremel, then used the sandpaper.
The gen3 G19 I did this on years ago has seen over 70,000 (yes that's 7 then four zeros) rounds and there is no indication of cracking or other problems with the triggerguard. I have seen some guys take the triggerguard down really paper thin as it meets the grip and that degree would spook me. But the pics in this thread look very reasonable to me in terms of how far they took it down. Nice aesthetics too, lookin' good.
Like the other guys said: go slow, take your time, and you'll be fine. You will really like the results.
I ended up taking my trigger guard down even more and removed the stippling from it.
The initial undercut:
http://imageshack.us/a/img834/1016/13apr201303.jpg
After sanding and restippling some of it:
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/3712/img0897fd.jpg
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/4536/img0898ij.jpg
After refinishing it:
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/9131/img0899ou.jpg
http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/2686/img0902sh.jpg
What are you using to get the finish back that smooth?
What are you using to get the finish back that smooth?
These were the final steps:
- 400 grit sandpaper
- green Scotch Brite pad
- a little Flitz on a rag
- black Rit dye (I mixed it like a paste)
- rubbed it with a little Frog Lube paste I had sitting there
ETA: The first two pics are after the Flitz but before the dye. The dye got rid of the grey discoloration that the Flitz didn't.
These were the final steps:
- 400 grit sandpaper
- green Scotch Brite pad
- a little Flitz on a rag
- black Rit dye (I mixed it like a paste)
- rubbed it with a little Frog Lube paste I had sitting there
ETA: The first two pics are after the Flitz but before the dye. The dye got rid of the grey discoloration that the Flitz didn't.
The dye must be the trick, I got mine smooth but couldn't get rid of the discoloration.
The dye must be the trick, I got mine smooth but couldn't get rid of the discoloration.
Purely cosmetic I guess but I'm anal sometimes haha. Now if I could just figure out a way to match the factory frame texture...
Smitty that's phenomenal work.
Smitty that's phenomenal work.
Thank you. I think I have it where I want it now but I'll have to get some more trigger time to know for sure :smile:
Second that! Looks real smooth.
Tiny Killer Robot
06-14-13, 22:04
To the OP:
You don't have to remove a ton of material to stop the problem. I just beveled the edges to get rid of the 'squareness.' It immediately solved the problem, even after 500 round sessions.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v151/diables/Glock.jpg
These were the final steps:
- 400 grit sandpaper
- green Scotch Brite pad
- a little Flitz on a rag
- black Rit dye (I mixed it like a paste)
- rubbed it with a little Frog Lube paste I had sitting there
ETA: The first two pics are after the Flitz but before the dye. The dye got rid of the grey discoloration that the Flitz didn't.
the dye still works if you mix it with frog lube?
is there any other way to mix it thick? water?
the dye still works if you mix it with frog lube?
is there any other way to mix it thick? water?
Sorry for the delayed response. I mixed the powder Rit with just a little bit of hot water to make a paste out of it. I smeared it on and let it sit for a while. I applied the FL after and let it soak in so the polymer didn't look so dried out.
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